Interested in a Luxury Sleeper Train Journey? Here's What It's Like
Even before I've had a drop of Champagne with my four-course meal, I'm teetering on my heels. I'm dressed to the nines in a floor-length gown, making my way down a wood-paneled hallway that could be straight out of Downton Abbey, though it happens to be on a moving train. The Belmond Royal Scotsman is gliding along at 65 miles an hour through the rolling Highlands of Scotland, rocking me gently until I make it to the cozy safety of my red velvet seat in the dining room.
There, at a long table set with custom china for half the train's guests—about 16 of us—I'm served hand-harvested scallops and a tender cut of beef. It's a country mile from the usual bag of chips and can of Coke I'd scarf down on a train trip, I think to myself, admiring how the suit-wearing waiters can refill tall crystal flutes with precision, never spilling a drop. Then it occurs to me: Getting back to my stateroom is going to be even harder.
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The caves are dim and cool, with narrow passages that lead past aging bottles and carved stone walls. Some sections require stair access and may be difficult for those with limited mobility. Still, the space is one of the most distinctive in Reims, offering a rare glimpse into the layered architectural history of champagne production. 'Everything was done by hand back then: labeling, corking and packaging,' says Redont. 'It was an incredibly labor-intensive process.' Modern disgorgement techniques use freezing to remove the sediment. The neck of the bottle is frozen, and when opened, the pressure ejects the sediment plug cleanly. It's quick but requires precision. The bottles are dipped in an ice bath, then passed through a machine that removes the sediment and reseals them with a cork and wire cage. This final step is key to Champagne's clarity and stability. Once that's done, the bottles are cleaned, labeled and prepared for shipment. Each one is handled carefully to ensure the integrity of the wine inside. 'The entire champagne-making process is long and meticulous,' says Redont. 'Few wines in the world require this level of care, and that's why champagne is so unique.' Visitors descend nearly 60 feet into Taittinger's historic cellars, where Roman-era chalk pits and Gothic vaults trace centuries of Champagne history. AFP via Getty Images Above ground, the tasting rooms reflect a blend of design periods. One space is decorated in mid-century style, with sculptural lighting and pale furniture. Another is lined with medieval-style wall hangings and dark wood panels. The contrast is deliberate. Taittinger has long positioned itself at the intersection of tradition and experimentation, a philosophy made tangible through its art collaborations. 'You'll notice that our process respects tradition, but we also innovate,' says Redont. 'Champagne isn't just made. It evolves. The glass, the yeast, the time—it's all part of the experience.' On display are bottles from the Taittinger Collection, a limited-edition series that began in 1983 and has included designs by Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Rauschenberg and Sebastião Salgado. The works are no longer available for purchase but are kept on site as part of the brand's archive. Vitalie Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger, at the visitor center Reims in front of a wall with names of the house's distributors around the world. AFP via Getty Images The family has overseen operations since the early 20th century. Today, Vitalie Taittinger serves as president, and her brother, Clovis Taittinger, holds the position of managing director. Their decision to invest in expanded hospitality reflects a broader trend among producers in one of the world's most prestigious wine regions to offer more structured tasting visits, especially for travelers who base themselves in Reims rather than booking countryside tours. 'The work we do here is part of a larger tradition that has global influence,' says Redont. 'Some of the techniques and tools have changed over the past 20 years, but the essence of champagne making remains.'
