The overlooked European city that's a better summer holiday alternative with ‘bread' saunas and new Ryanair flights
THE BREW DANUBE The overlooked European city that's a better summer holiday alternative with 'bread' saunas and new Ryanair flights
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I HAVE been in many saunas during my life, but never one that doubles up as an oven for baking bread.
But that's exactly why the Eurothermen Spa in Bad Schallerbach, Austria, is so unique.
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Josie Griffiths enjoys the view of the Danube Loop
Credit: Josie Griffiths
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The fabulous Eurothermen Resort
Credit: Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Robert Maybach
Perched on a wooden bench, I spend 15 minutes in there, watching a freshly kneaded Salzstangerl — a traditional Austrian salted bread stick — rise to perfection in the wall oven opposite me.
When the sauna session is over, we sink our teeth into still-warm baguettes, which are seriously tasty.
But there's one fact that could turn your stomach — everyone was naked.
Well, except for me. This prudish Brit sat with a towel clasped tightly around her, despite the 70C heat.
When I wasn't baking myself next to loaves, I was cooling down in the Ice Grotto, then sweating again in the Most-Fassl, a cider barrel thought to be the largest in the world, converted into a sauna.
With such unusual delights, it's a surprise to me that Austria is often overlooked as a summer holiday destination by us Brits.
The country offers so much more than just ski resorts.
A booming spa culture is just one example, stunning landscapes are another.
During my trip, I stay in three different towns in Upper Austria, on the banks of the River Danube.
There are now direct flights to Linz from Stansted twice a week, thanks to a new Ryanair route which took off this April.
Martin Lewis warns about strict passport rule that could see you board your flight - only to get sent home on arrival
One of the highlights of the area is the Danube Loop, a point where the river turns a dramatic 180-degree bend — a sight not to be missed.
Conveniently, this is located directly opposite my first hotel of the trip — the four-star Riverresort Donauschlinge — where the restaurant terrace offers awe-inspiring views of the landscape.
Potent pint
Asparagus cordon bleu, spaetzle (pasta) and cream soup are among the Austrian delicacies on the menu.
Aside from serving excellent grub, the hotel sits directly on the Danube Limes World Heritage route, a riverside cycle track which includes stops at well-preserved Roman ruins and the Schutz Art Museum.
Travellers can also visit the Engelszell Abbey, which is more than just a monastery with a stunning ceiling mural.
The monks produce schnapps, which tastes similar to Jagermeister, and beers of up to 10.5 per cent alcohol — a potent pint.
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Visit the unique Engelszell Abbey
Credit: WGDDonauOberösterreichTourismusGmbHCarlettoPhotopgraphy
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Explore the pretty town of Grieskirchen
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The monks brewery at Engelszell Abbey
Credit: WGDDonauOberösterreichTourismusGmbHCarlettoPhotopgraphy
Mostschank Greinecker restaurant has a great sparkling apple cider (famous in the region), with cheese, more schnapps and apple strudel.
A small, family-run restaurant, with gorgeous hillside views, it's the perfect spot for a cosy dinner.
Then you can stumble into bed at the Parkhotel Stroissmuller, which has its own cracking spa, too.
If you'd rather stay in Linz itself, the Park Inn by Radisson offers comfortable, modern rooms just minutes from the tram stop.
Known for being an industrial, steel-producing city, Linz has a gorgeous, quaint old town.
It was bombed heavily during World War Two, and today there's a mixture of buildings from different eras.
Have lunch at Stiegl-Klosterhof, where beef goulash, sausage and cheese-soaked pretzels can line your stomach before you sip the brewery's own beers.
Or try Gruner Veltliner, a tasty Austrian white wine.
And don't worry if you knock back one too many — Linz's town slogan is: Take a risk, visit Linz.
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