Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India
I'm anxious about my first visit to India. Faced with its vast scale, history and humanity, its crowds, poverty and colour, I'm determined to channel Judi Dench's intrepid, open-hearted character from Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, Evelyn Greenslade. I fear, however, that I will quickly turn into Penelope Wilton's uptight and unadventurous Jean Ainslie, who soon flees back to her less challenging English homeland.
My apprehension increases when I hear that even Traveller's resident Tripologist and Indophile, Michael Gebicki, has succumbed to illness while there, despite more than 20 visits. What hope is there for a first-timer like me?
The journalist visa process is a frustrating jumble of red tape and clunky websites, and my first (domestic) flight is booked in the wrong direction. It feels like the universe is warning me not to risk it.
I'm travelling with a small group on a brief yet unquestionably luxurious journey to Rajasthan with Abercrombie & Kent. The flight from Melbourne to Delhi is jam-packed with members of Australia's Indian diaspora, regarded as the nation's most successful.
There are crying babies, pungent wafts of curry and a handful of passengers ignoring (or not understanding) the attendants' instructions to remain seated after landing, resulting in frustrated yelling from said attendants. It seems like another sign of the chaos that's undoubtedly to come.
As we land at Indira Gandhi airport, I help a family laden down with bags and toddler paraphernalia until they get to passport control, where we part ways.
But later, as I emerge with my own luggage into the arrivals hall, their young daughter spots me in the crowd, runs over and gives me the biggest hug – and suddenly I begin to understand the warmth of India's welcoming embrace.
Here are some other things I learnt.
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