Dressing real people makes couture beautiful, says designer Tarun Tahiliani

Khaleej Times

2 days ago

Couture is larger than life. But must it feel cumbersome? This is a question Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani addresses in his latest collection Quintessence, which was showcased in the recently concluded India Couture Week. Tahiliani, who completes 30 years in the fashion industry this year, has married traditional maximalism with contemporary silhouettes, and says his greatest joy is in styling for regular people whose joys, anxieties, fears, exuberance — all contribute to the aesthetic he's come to be known for. As his spectacular show at The Oberoi New Delhi, that itself is celebrating 60 years in the hospitality industry, won unanimous applause, he reflected on his legacy and the way forward for Indian fashion. Edited excerpts from an interview:
It's been 30 years of Tarun Tahiliani. How do you encapsulate your journey of three decades?
It's been an extraordinary journey of refining an aesthetic rooted in India yet global in spirit. What began as a desire to drape India in its own sensibility, with structure and lightness, has evolved into a body of work that I believe speaks of timeless elegance, quiet luxury, and emotion. Thirty years in, I feel we're still learning, still evolving — every collection is a new chapter, not a reinvention but a refinement of everything we've stood for.
Has the aesthete in you often been at odds with the business mind?
Of course — there's always a natural tension. The aesthete seeks purity, precision, and a kind of uncompromising idealism, while the business mind is grounded in pragmatism, timelines, and scalability. But over the years, I've realised that neither can exist in isolation. The challenge — and the beauty — lies in marrying the dream with structure, so that creativity doesn't just remain an idea, but becomes something that lives, breathes, and reaches people.
How did an early exposure to understanding sportswear shape your idea of couture?
That exposure taught me a lot about functionality, construction, and movement — which later became central to how I imagined modern couture. You could say my sensibility has always been about marrying drape with structure. Even in bridal or occasion wear, I wanted it to feel like a second skin, not a costume. That came from learning early on that clothes must serve the body, not imprison it.
How has the evolution of the Indian wedding industry impacted the way we imagine couture?
Weddings today are no longer just about pageantry — they are personal, curated, and often deeply emotional. With this shift, couture too has had to evolve. It's not just about spectacle anymore; it's about individuality, versatility, and wearability. Brides and grooms want to feel like themselves — beautiful, yes, but also comfortable, empowered, and modern.
You recently told The Hollywood Reporter India that when it comes to bridal wear, "real glamour lies off-screen — in the people who live it, breathe it and pay for it". What is it about dressing real people that holds allure for you as a designer?
Because that is where fashion lives and breathes — in reality. Dressing real people, understanding their stories, their anxieties, their joy — that's what makes couture meaningful. These aren't mannequins. They're individuals stepping into a new chapter, and it's a privilege to be part of that. That connection, that emotion — that's the real glamour.
Quintessence captures the very heart of the Tarun Tahiliani aesthetic and design philosophy. What has really gone into it?
Quintessence is not just a collection, it's a distillation — of everything I've believed in for three decades. It's where craft meets lightness, where heritage is reinterpreted with clarity and grace. It's about restraint rather than excess. Layered yet effortless. This collection carries the spirit of everything we've built: timeless, intimate, India Modern.
In an era where more is more, Quintessence is focused on wearability as much as opulence. What does it take for you to strike a balance?
It's about editing — always editing. You can have craft, but it must breathe. Embroidery must enhance, not overwhelm. We look at silhouettes, we consider movement, we ask: will the woman or man in this feel like themselves? Because true luxury isn't about being seen — it's about being felt.
Cultural appropriation is the buzzword in fashion at the moment after we saw Prada not crediting Indian artisans, or India, for the famous Kolhapuris. You have been a passionate advocate of the design heritage and artisans who continue to uphold those traditions. What were your thoughts when you heard of the incident?
Frankly, it's infuriating — but also not new. For too long, India has been the anonymous hand behind global luxury. We've been the invisible artisans. That must change. We need to protect our heritage, not just with IP laws but with pride and clarity. The world has appropriated for decades — it's time we assert ownership and celebrate our craftspeople as the true treasures they are.
Social media is the new site of fashion and influencers are increasingly setting the agenda for a younger generation. Is there a danger of dilution of the understanding of a design aesthetic when that happens?
There is a danger when attention spans shorten and nuance gets lost. But it also depends on how you use it. Social media is a powerful tool — it can educate, inspire, and democratise fashion. The onus is on designers and creators to go beyond just visuals, and tell stories — about craft, process, and intention. Because that's where longevity lies.
After three decades, what lies ahead for the Tarun Tahiliani brand?
This is a moment of both reflection and renewed ambition. As a brand, we're looking to scale our presence — to reach new audiences while staying true to the essence of India Modern. The idea is not just to grow, but to deepen: to refine our couture further, to continue elevating craftsmanship, and to build on the foundation we've created. With OTT by TarunTahiliani, we've opened a new chapter — a more accessible, contemporary expression of our design philosophy. It's an exciting time where each vertical — couture, bridal, menswear, accessories, and now OTT — speaks to a different facet of the same story: everyday luxury rooted in heritage, worn with lightness, and made for how people truly live today.