5 simple sweet treats: cake and dessert recipes from Italy
But it goes even further: Italians love sugar so much that they often indulge on a daily basis — a small pastry with their coffee for breakfast, perhaps, or a slice of something delicious in the afternoon. Here are five of my favourites.
Chocolate sin cake
Serves 10
I first encountered this cake in Sicily and since then it has become a regular feature in my repertoire. The combination of chocolate and coffee — along with its squidginess — make this irresistible.
Ingredients
• 250g dark chocolate
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1½ tbsp cold Italian espresso coffee
• 6 large eggs
• 200g soft brown sugar
• Unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting
• Poached fruit and crème fraîche, to serve (optional)
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 160C fan/gas 4. Grease the base and sides of a 25cm cake tin, then either flour the tin or line with baking parchment.
2. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water — making sure the base of the bowl does not touch the water. Add the vanilla and salt to the chocolate, then the coffee, mix and leave to cool.
3. Whisk together the eggs and sugar for 8 minutes until thick and creamy, using either a handheld or stand mixer. Add the chocolate mixture to the eggs and sugar and combine on a low speed.
4. Pour the batter into the prepared cake tin and bake for 30 minutes, then leave it to cool in the tin. Remove from the tin, dust with cocoa powder and enjoy with poached fruit and crème fraîche, if liked — it is ridiculously good.
CLARE WINFIELD
Blood orange and almond cake
Serves 8-12
A gluten-free cake that hits the spot. The blood orange season is short, but normal oranges also give fantastic results.
Ingredients
• 280g unsalted butter
• 225g caster sugar
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 175g ground almonds
• 175g coarse polenta
• Zest and juice of 4 blood oranges
• Blood orange slices and chopped almonds, to decorate (optional)
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the base and sides of a 25cm loose-bottomed round cake tin with baking parchment.
2. Cream together the butter and sugar in a large bowl until pale and thickened. Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating between each addition. Add the ground almonds, polenta, orange zest and juice and mix well.
3. In a clean separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Using a metal spoon, carefully fold the whites into the mixture.
4. Pour into the prepared cake tin and bake for about 50 minutes until golden and firm to the touch. Leave on a wire rack to cool completely in the tin.
5. Before serving, decorate the cake with blood orange slices and chopped almonds, if liked.
CLARE WINFIELD
Fig, amaretti and ricotta tart
Serves 8-10
When the figs are ripe and succulent, this tart demands to be made. Full of classic Venetian tastes and textures, a small slice with an espresso is enough to lift your day.
Ingredients
• 130g unsalted butter
• 250g amaretti biscuits
• 175g full-fat soft cheese
• 500g ricotta
• 100g caster sugar
• 1 tbsp vanilla extract
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 2 tbsp amaretto liqueur
• 12 ripe figs, trimmed and sliced
• 1 tsp crushed fennel seeds (optional)
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 160C fan/gas 4. Lightly grease the base and sides of a deep 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin.
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Blitz the amaretti in a food processor, then add to the pan with the butter and mix well. Tip the mixture into the base of the prepared tin, then press down with the back of the spoon to evenly distribute the crumbs and cover the base and sides. Bake the tart base for about 10 minutes. Leave to cool.
3. Mix together the soft cheese, ricotta, sugar, vanilla extract, lemon zest and amaretto liqueur. Spoon the mixture evenly over the tart base. Chill in the fridge for at least 3 hours, then top with the sliced figs in a circular pattern. Scatter over the fennel seeds to finish, if liked.
Note You may like to top the tart with a fig leaf syrup, as I have done here. To make the syrup, combine 1 litre water, 3 fig leaves and 150g caster sugar, then boil together until thick and syrupy. Drizzle over the tart to finish.
CLARE WINFIELD
Peach and pistachio slice
Makes 14 slices
A strong recipe for a novice baker, as the method is simple and easy to master. Milk provides a tender crumb for all cakes, and this is no exception. Adding pistachios makes this a bright, colourful, cheerful cake to enjoy in the Italian peach season.
Ingredients
• 185g Italian 00 flour
• 170g caster sugar, plus 2 tbsp extra for sprinkling
• 1 tsp baking powder
• Pinch of salt
• 50g pistachios, chopped, plus extra to decorate
• 3 large eggs
• 60ml milk
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 180g butter, softened
• 2 ripe peaches, each stoned/pitted and cut into 6 pieces
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 140C fan/gas 3. Grease the base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm baking tin.
2. Sift the flour into a large bowl, add the sugar, baking powder, salt and pistachios and make a well in the centre.
3. Put the eggs, milk, vanilla and lemon zest in another bowl and mix to combine. Pour the egg mixture into the well in the dry ingredients, add the butter and beat for 2 minutes until smooth.
4. Spread the mixture evenly into the baking tin. Push the peach pieces into the cake mixture in two rows of six. Bake for 20 minutes.
5. Sprinkle over the extra sugar and cook for another 20 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Decorate with pistachios and cut the cake into fingers to serve.
CLARE WINFIELD
Classic tiramisu
Serves 10-12
Literally translated, this means 'pick me up' as the sugar and alcohol lift the spirits. Make in a large serving dish or in individual portions: it looks impressive when presented in small tumblers.
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 100g caster sugar
• 200ml double cream
• 250g mascarpone
• 200ml freshly brewed espresso coffee
• 100ml marsala
• 24 Savoiardi biscuits or sponge fingers
• Cocoa powder, for dusting
Method
1. In a large bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar until light and fluffy using an electric whisk. Using the same whisk but in another bowl, whip the cream to firm peaks, then add the mascarpone and briefly whisk again to combine. Now use a hand whisk to mix this into the egg yolk mixture until just combined.
2. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, then — using a metal spoon or a whisk – mix into the cream mixture, incorporating as much air as possible.
3. Pour the espresso and marsala into a large bowl ready for dipping the biscuits.
4. Use 10-12 individual glasses or a 25cm serving dish to assemble the tiramisu. Cover the base of your glasses or dish with a 2cm layer of the cream, then a layer of the biscuits that have been dipped quickly into the espresso mixture. You have to do the soaking and layering as you go or they will become soggy — and traditionally Italians do not like soggy biscuits.
5. Continue to build the layers of cream and biscuits, ending with a layer of cream. Chill in the fridge, ideally for 6-24 hours. Dust with cocoa powder to serve.
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The Guardian
7 hours ago
- The Guardian
I tried 17 rice cookers to find the best model in the US: here are my favorites
Not a day goes by where I don't cook and eat rice. I grew up thinking of it as central to every meal. I'm also a former professional chef who, for over seven years, ran a restaurant and food truck that served Hawaii's local food – a cuisine that is rice-based. All told I have made tens of thousands of pounds of rice. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. This means that I have purchased dozens of rice cookers of various sizes, both for home kitchens and commercial ones. I even have portable rice cookers for easy toting to outdoor cookouts. My guiding principles in this review are, firstly, that the most important function of a rice cooker is to make delicious rice. But, secondly, I am fundamentally opposed to appliances that are single-function – rice cookers should be able to steam vegetables and other foods, too, often while the rice is cooking. Thirdly, I look for rice cookers that are designed to last. I tested 17 rice cookers in what I referred to as the 'Rice Cooker Olympics'. I organized them in 'heats' of three to four rice cookers each (so as to not blow a fuse), making rounds of short-grain Kokuho rice with each cooker. I'm used to assessing the quality of rice. As a food writer I judge sushi restaurants based partly on the quality of their rice, and I develop rice-based recipes. In this cooker review I looked for: The gelatinization of rice after it was cooked – could you still taste separate, distinct grains? Was rice cooked to the correct consistency that corresponded to the menu option? Did the pot of rice cook evenly or were there obvious burned bits? Could cookers make brown rice or germinated brown (gaba) rice if they claimed to have that functionality? Could I cook other meals with the cookers – such as quinoa, beans, steamed vegetables, chawanmushi and congee? I didn't look for speed – most take roughly 20 to 30 minutes for a pot of short grain white rice. Since my husband is also a professional chef, he brought the seemingly endless pots of rice I cooked to his restaurant to turn into rice vinegar or manipulate into staff meals. At the end of the Olympics, I returned the cookers I did not own to their manufacturers or donated them to the Philly Aids Thrift or the food lab at Drexel University. Read on for my top picks, and for a rice cooker Q&A at the end. All prices current at the time of publication. Best overall: Zojirushi Induction Rice Cooker NP-HCC10 $384.99 at Amazon Best budget: Green Life 1.5 quart rice cooker $19.99 at GreenLife Best for impatient people:Cuckoo Electric Pressure Rice Cooker and Warmer CRP-ST0609F$229.99 at Amazon Best dispenser: KitchenAid Grain and Rice Cooker$399.99 at KitchenAid Best high-end: Zojirushi Pressure Induction Rice Cooker NW-YNC10$229.99 at Amazon Best stainless steel: Tatung 11 cup electric rice cooker and steamer$220 at Yun Hai If you want a multicooker – but on a budget: Hamilton Beach Multi Cooker 37523MN$67.99 at JCPenney If you want to cook different kinds of rice: Cuckoo CR-0675F$139.99 at Cuckoo If you want carb reduction: GreenPan 8-cup rice and grain cooker$149.99 at Home Depot If you want a rice cooker that is indestructible: Zojirushi Neuro Fuzzy 5 cup NS-ZCC10$226 at Amazon If you want a rice cooker that doubles as a pressure cooker: Our Place Dream Cooker$199 at Our Place $384.99 at Amazon $384.99 at Walmart Why we love it The Rolls Royce of rice cookers. White rice comes out noticeably more fragrant than practically any other rice cooker tested. On the regular setting, cooked grains were distinct and lightly al dente, with a gelatinized texture that you'd look for in sushi rice or sticky rice. This effect is achieved through precise temperature controls. Its smooth interior allows for easy cleaning (just wipe it). I love the 0.5 rice cup setting, which is helpful for making rice for just one person – other rice cookers rarely function as well when cooking rice in such small quantities. The cooker also comes in a larger 1.8L model. It's a shame that … Unlike most models I recommend, this model uses induction technology – and it takes longer to cook the rice. On a regular setting, a pot of white rice required 54 minutes. Even so, there is a 'quick cook' setting that speeds things up. Capacity: 1L / 5.5 Cups uncookedMaterial (body and liner/pot): Stainless steel and plastic body, platinum-infused non-stick inner potFunctions: White rice (regular, softer, harder), umami, mixed, sushi and sweet rice, jasmine, porridge, congee, brown, gaba, steel-cut oatmeal, quick cooking, extended keep warmAccessories: None $19.99 at GreenLife $32.79 at Amazon Why we love it I tested four basic, traditional mini rice cookers from brands like Aroma, Dash, and Black and Decker. GreenLife's produced the best, al dente, non-mushy white rice. It was the only one of the budget brands that I tested that had a ceramic coating. This yielded a hint of brown at the bottom of the rice, but for me that was preferable to a more traditional nonstick coating and potentially more PFAS chemicals. This is the ideal cooker for a single person or couple seeking a handy and easily stowable device, and who don't need one that can steam other foods or make various types of grains. It's a shame that … it only has two functions. It's heated via a coil in the cooker's interior, which can make cleaning challenging if liquid or food is spilled on it. The inner pot also doesn't sit perfectly on the coil, so it does bounce and jiggle when not in use. Capacity: 6 cups of cooked rice or 3 cups of uncooked riceMaterial (body and liner/pot): Aluminum body. Ceramic- coated pot. The lid is glass and plasticFunctions: Cook and keep warmAccessories: None $229.99 at Amazon $324.89 at Walmart Why we love it White rice turns out beautifully sticky with distinct grains. It is also a beast. Though compact at 5.8kg (12.7lbs), it's about twice the weight of the Zojirushi above, so it's the sort of appliance that might live on your countertop. Thankfully, it's sleek, attractive and feels hi-tech. Its turbo cooking mode is absolutely remarkable and makes a pot of nearly perfect white rice in roughly 15 minutes (the timing varies according to how large a pot you make). This rice doesn't necessarily come out quite as fragrant as our Zojirushi picks, but it still has the right bite. Moreover the sprouted brown rice I make with GABA function comes out wonderfully textured, while also sticky, fluffy, and nutty. (Scroll to the bottom for an explanation of what gaba rice is.) Its inner pot has handles for easy removal and cleaning. It also speaks to you in a sweet, high-pitched voice, saying things like 'Cuckoo is starting,' 'Steam release will begin,' and 'Super-turbo is complete. Stir the rice.' It's a shame that … this seems to be a hallmark of Cuckoo cookers, but it leaps backwards when you press the button that opens the lid. This doesn't make the cooker fall over, but it has knocked other items off my kitchen counter. Capacity: 6 cups uncooked, 12 cups cookedMaterial (body and liner/pot): Body is stainless steel and plastic, inner pot is stainless steel with a non-stick coatingFunctions: High pressure: white rice, turbo white rice, mixed rice, gaba rice, high pressure steam, high heat. Non-pressure: white rice, frozen rice, open cooking, veggie rice, baby food, non-pressure steam, open cooking. It also has an auto-clean modeAccessories: None $399.99 at KitchenAid $399.95 at Walmart Why we love it I've been using this KitchenAid cooker for over a year, and it's perfect for when I don't feel like measuring the amount of rice I'm cooking or the amount of water I need to cook it. It's also perfect for beans – I always forget to soak my beans before cooking, but this appliance, with an external water tank (like a Nespresso coffee pod machine) takes the guesswork out of it, measuring the correct amount of water for practically any bean or grain that you can think of to cook. It's basically a little computer. It's a shame that … while versatile, you don't get the same wonderful floral flavor in rice that the Zojirushi models unlock. Capacity: 8 cupsMaterial (body and liner/pot): Plastic and stainless steel body and dispenser, aluminum inner pot with ceramic non-stick coatingFunctions: Short-grain brown rice, long-grain brown rice, short-grain white rice, long-grain white rice, basmati rice, jasmine rice, wild rice, sushi rice, steel-cut oats, rolled oats, couscous, quinoa, pearled barley, hulled barley, farro, black beans, red beans, kidney beans, pinto beans, chickpeas, lentilsAccessories: Steamer basket $499.99 at Bed Bath & Beyond $499.99 at Zojirushi Why we love it The reason this Zojirushi model is our pick for best high end isn't simply because of its price, but because it makes basic Kokuho short-grain white rice taste like high-end Tamanishiki rice. The rice grains turn out sticky but also fluffy – without any manual fluffing with my rice paddle. I'm aware of every individual rice grain as I'm chewing. The machine itself is extremely straightforward. It's very clear about cooking time – for instance, it told me my germinated brown rice had a 192-minute cooking time. There's also a 10 cup, 1.8 L version. It's a shame that … it's not fast. One cup of white rice takes 59 minutes to cook, but if you're normally letting rice steam in the cooker after cooking it anyway, it's not that much longer. You also can't open the lid during the cooking process to add vegetables into your pot to steam while the rice is cooking. This is also the most challenging to clean. Rice scum gets between the gasket and the inner lid. Capacity: 1L/5.5 cups uncookedMaterial (body and liner/pot): Plastic, stainless steel body. Inner pot is made from aluminum with a PTFE (Teflon) non-stick coatingFunctions: White rice (regular, firmer, umami), quick, brown rice, gaba, jasmine (regular, quick, congee), sushi, sweet, congee, steel-cut oatmeal, keep warmAccessories: None $220 at Yun Hai Why we love it This is actually your momma's rice cooker, and it's an heirloom for a reason. It's consistent, makes an excellent pot of rice, and can steam anything. It has the great advantages of having all its cooking components made of stainless steel (eliminating concerns about PFAs or toxic non-stick materials), and of not having a heating coil inside of the cooker, making cleaning very easy. You will have to soak the rice pot after use, and avoid abrasive scrubbers, as the rice would start to stick to the stainless steel pot. It functions differently from all other rice cookers on this list as it is essentially a double boiler – you have to fill the outer pot with water to steam the rice in the inner pot. Make sure the rice is completely flat so that it cooks evenly, and keep an eye on the level of the water in the outer pot so that it doesn't run out during cooking. It's a shame that … it takes a little getting used to keeping an eye on the water level in the outer pot. Capacity: 11 cups (there is also a 6-cup model)Material (body and liner/pot): Stainless steelFunctions: Cook, keep warmAccessories: Inner pot cover, steam plate (can be bundled with steamer tongs, bowl clip, upper stainless steel pot) $67.99 at JCPenney $67.95 at Walmart Why we love it I like the straightforward controls. This one also had by far the best-designed lid of all of the 17 rice cookers I tested – it's easy to clean. The pot's side handles are not made of metal, meaning you can lift it out without using hand protection. (I've burnt myself on many other rice cooker pots.) It didn't make the final cut because … the grains of the white rice were sticky and overblown, the rice as a whole was gummy, and the bottom of the pot quickly developed a rice-paper film. I also don't like how the appliance is so large, and the minimum amount of rice you can cook is two cups, at least according to the inner pot's line measure. Each of the three Hamilton Beach rice cookers I tested came with plastic steamer baskets, but I'm put off by the idea of cooking with plastic at such high temperatures. Capacity: 4.5 quarts/20 cups cooked riceMaterial (body and liner/pot): Stainless steel, plastic steamer basket, non-stick stainless steelFunctions: White rice, brown rice, slow cook low, slow cook high, steam, hot cereal, soup, keep warmAccessories: Plastic steamer basket that sits inside the inner pot $79.99 at Walmart $139.99 at Cuckoo Why we love it This Cuckoo cooks beautiful sticky rice evenly: the rice maintains its shape and is perfectly and lightly al dente. It also has a scorched rice function in case you want that crispy bottom, making this the closest to a Persian rice cooker on this list. It's not as sturdy as our Cuckoo pick above but at this price point, it's a really good deal. It has an autoclean function for high-temperature sanitization – but for regular cleaning you do have to disassemble it. It didn't make the final cut because … the open button flings the lid open a little violently, making the entire cooker jump on my counter top. It is jarring. Capacity: 6 cups uncookedMaterial (body and liner/pot): Stainless steel core with a non-stick coating. The lid is plasticFunctions: Cook, keep warm, white, white quick, multigrain, gaba, scorched, thick porridge, thin porridge, baby food, auto-clean. It has an autoclean function where it steams itself – but for regular cleaning you do have to dissembleAccessories: None $149.99 at Home Depot $149.95 at Sur la table Why we love it This small, relatively lightweight rice cooker makes lovely, evenly cooked white rice without sticky or hard spots. It's easy to use – there's a touch screen on its lid and you toggle from one setting to another. For this price point, it's surprisingly advanced, despite using a traditional coil heating element. Its main selling point is that it claims to reduce the carbohydrates in rice by up to 37% compared to other rice cookers. What does this look like? At the end of the cooking cycle, a starchy condensation is collected in the carb-reducing insert. It didn't make the final cut because … I'm testing this in a home kitchen and I am only able to tell you how the rice tastes, not how much carbs it contains. Capacity: 4 cups uncooked, 8 cups cookedMaterial (body and liner/pot): Plastic body, stainless steel components and coil, inner pot is diamond-infused ceramic non-stick (claims to be PFAs and PFOA-free)Functions: White rice, brown rice, multigrain, wild rice, low-carb white rice, low carb brown rice, barley, quinoa, beans, steel cut oatsAccessories: Carb reducing stainless steel insert $226 at Amazon $259.99 at Macys Why we love it I have put this particular rice cooker and its larger version through absolute hell the last decade and it has consistently made me delicious rice with distinct grains. Despite it being a home appliance, I have used it in professional capacities on my food truck and in my fast casual restaurant. It's slower than a commercial rice cooker (it takes about forty minutes to cook a pot), but the rice always turns out fluffier. This 5.5 cup model is portable and pretty light. I love the handle, and I have carried this rice cooker like a purse when transporting it to catering events. It's easy to use for steaming vegetables (I open the lid halfway through the rice cooking process and toss in my vegetables), and for making congee (I open the lid to stir it occasionally). I believe this rice cooker is indestructible. It didn't make the final cut because … once I tasted the rice from Zojirushi's pricier models, it's a little hard to go back to this basic one. Zojirushi's rice always turns out more fragrant, even when I'm cooking the exact same bag of short-grain rice. Capacity: 5.5 cups uncooked rice, 10 cups cooked (there's also a 10 cup uncooked/20 cup cooked model)Material (body and liner/pot): Plastic body, non-stick coated inner potFunctions: White rice, regular/sushi rice, softer, harder, quick-cooking, mixed, porridge, sweet, semi-brown, brown riceAccessories: None $199 at Our Place $199 at Amazon Why we love it This is large and heavy at over 18lbs, will take up a decent amount of space on your countertop and is roughly the size of a half-keg of beer. That said, the Dream Cooker is incredibly attractive, coming in a range of powder-coated hues that will probably match your kitchen. If you're deciding between a rice cooker, a slow cooker or a pressure cooker, this combines all those capabilities into one appliance. Using the pressure function, it makes brown rice in a shockingly fast 20 minutes. It didn't make the final cut because … you have to remember the ratios for water to grain when cooking rice or quinoa, or any grain that requires precise measurements. It's billed as simple to use, but is sometimes simple to the point of being mysterious (I had to consult Google a lot to make it cook anything). It doesn't talk to you, it just beeps. Capacity: 6 quartsMaterial (body and liner/pot): Aluminum, inner pot has a toxin-free non-stick coatingFunctions: Pressure cook, slow cook, sear and saute, keep warmAccessories: None What are the three main kinds of rice cooker? In a traditional rice cooker, rice and water heat up, the water turns into steam and the rice absorbs the water, getting cooked. When all the steam has been absorbed, the cooker will switch off or to keep warm mode. Heat is concentrated at the bottom, which can make for less evenly cooked rice. Fuzzy logic rice cookers contain a computer chip and sensors that adjust cooking time and temperature. The most advanced rice cookers use induction heating. They have more advanced temperature-sensing technology and better heat distribution, resulting in more evenly cooked rice, and generally have more setting. What about Persian rice cookers? There are no Persian rice cookers on this list. I determined that they deserve their own category, as the type of rice they are used for demands a crisp bottom – a characteristic that most rice cookers, with the exception of one on this list, aims to avoid. You keep mentioning gaba rice. What is it? Gaba rice is also known as sprouted or germinated brown rice. It's unpolished, which increases its flavor and texture. The long cook time is thought to boost the content of gaba (gamma-aminobutyric acid) and provide additional nutritional and health benefits. Do I need to use the measuring cup that comes with the appliance? Rice cookers, which generally originate in Asia, always come with a rice measuring cup, which is not the same capacity as an American standard cup (8 fl oz). You must use the rice cup to measure rice. What capacity do I need? For a single person, you can get away with a one-cup rice cooker. For two people, think 2-4 cups. For a family of 4, you'll probably want a 5.5 cup/1L capacity cooker. Should I be concerned about the materials the appliances are made of? Materials in these cookers can be inscrutable, if they are even listed. Certain inner pots have nonstick coatings, as noted in their specifications above. And some nonstick coatings have become controversial because they can be made with PFAS or 'forever' chemicals. Various newer brands use ceramic coatings and say they are PFAS-free, though information about these coatings is still coming in. If you are concerned about PFAS, you can choose the stainless steel Tatung cooker listed above. You can also find stainless steel liner pots for many of the models I recommend, such as this one for the Zojirushi model I call 'indestructible'. I have not tested these liners. How do I clean them? I would clean all pots and washable elements by hand. Even if a cooker's components are listed as dishwasher safe, I want to avoid the degradation of plastic (which can lead to the shedding of microplastics into food and water) and the wearing down of any non-stick coating, regardless of what it's made of. What devices didn't make the list? The chasm of quality between the highest end Zojirushi model I tested and a Black and Decker two-function rice cooker, is vast. (Sorry Black and Decker, maybe stick to vacuum cleaners.) Other devices that did not make the cut include the Dash mini rice cooker and the Aroma pot-style rice cooker. In the future I hope to test models by Toshiba and Tiger. Kiki Aranita is a food writer at the Philadelphia Inquirer and former senior editor of kitchen and dining at New York magazine's the Strategist. She is also the owner of Poi Dog Sauces, and the former chef/owner of Poi Dog restaurant and food truck in Philadelphia. She writes and cooks with an eye towards sustainability You can send additional questions to
The Guardian
17 hours ago
- The Guardian
Rachel Roddy's recipe for Sardinian crispbread lasagne
The process of making Sardinian pane carasau is similarly hypnotic to pitta: a disc of durum wheat dough is baked on a hot surface until it puffs up into an almost-ball. The reason for this puffing is the contrast between the rapidly drying surface of the dough and the evaporating water within the dough. The water turns into steam, causing the centre to balloon and the two layers to separate, creating a pocket and making the whole thing look a bit like an inflated whoopee cushion. In order to make pane carasau, which in Sardinia is a domestic, artisan and industrial art, the puffed-up dough is swiftly separated into two thin discs with a sharp knife, then the discs are returned – possibly folded in half or quarters – to the oven to dry and toast for a second time according to the maker's taste. Fortunately for us, there are hundreds of makers and the whole point of pane carasau, also known as carta di musica (music paper bread), is that it is brilliantly transportable and enduring: it lasts and lasts, which is why it's one of my favourite things to have in the cupboard. Pane carasau can be eaten in various ways: its crisp, brittle, cracker-like nature makes it a natural partner for cheese (and honey) and soft toppings; it can also be eaten like bread and filled, dipped or broken into soup or stews, or used as part of a salad; or quickly immersed in cold water (or passed under a running tap), which restores moisture, making the discs pliable enough to fold or roll around. Pane carasau can also be used in the same way as sheets of pasta to make – and I am inspired by the magazine La Cucina Italiana here – all sorts of lasagne. I have chosen to make one with a tomato sauce using both fresh and tinned tomatoes, mozzarella (it needs to be well drained) and parmesan. Opinions vary as to whether it is better to use dry or slightly damp pane carasau, but I have come to the conclusion that a mix is best: three dry layers then a final damp layer, which ensures that the top doesn't dry out too rapidly before the cheese melts, and a golden crust forms. As with a classic lasagne, rest for 20 minutes or so after baking, so the flavours settle and the lasagne firms up. The great thing about pane carasau is that it is sturdy enough to maintain form, but pliable enough to be cut, and has a lightness usually found only in expertly hand-rolled sheets of fresh egg pasta. Serve cut into squares with a green salad and a glass of Sardinian red wine, such as Bovale Sardo or Cannonau. Serves 4 500g ripe tomatoes 5 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and gently crushed so broken but still intact 400g tin whole plum tomatoes in juice1 small red chilli (fresh or dried), whole or chopped if you want more heatSalt 8 basil leaves 180g pane carasau – look for it in Italian delis 400g mozzarella, drained and diced80g parmesan Peel the fresh tomatoes by covering them with boiling water for two minutes, draining, then cooling under cold water, at which point the skins should pull away easily. Chop the tomatoes roughly, discarding any tough bits. Put the olive oil and garlic in a heavy-based pan, then put the pan on a low flame and warm until the garlic gently sizzles – be careful not to burn it. Add both the fresh and tinned tomatoes, bring to a lively simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Add the red chilli and a good pinch of salt, then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 45 minutes, using the back of a wooden spoon to break up the tomatoes; add the basil for the last 10 minutes. The sauce should be rich, thick and shiny, with the oil forming a ring at the edges. Assemble the lasagne in a 20cm x 26cm baking dish: start with a layer of sauce, cover with a layer of pane carasau – this can be quite patchwork and informal, with bits overlapping – then make another layer of sauce, diced mozzarella and grated cheese. Continue with another three layers, wetting the final layer of pane carasau very briefly under running water and finishing with a smear of sauce and thin layer of grated cheeses. Bake at 175C (165C fan)/gas 3½ for 20 minutes, until golden. The subheading of this article was amended on 31 July 2025. An earlier version said the flatbreads were layered with tomato and lasagne; however, this should have said tomato and cheese.
The Guardian
17 hours ago
- The Guardian
Helen Goh's recipe for black forest crepe cake
This is a take on the classic black forest gateau, with layers of delicate chocolate crepes, silky white chocolate cream and sour cherry jam. (Use a good-quality store-bought jam if making your own is a step too far.) All the components can be made ahead of time, ready to be assembled, but be aware that the finished cake needs to be refrigerated for at least three hours, and preferably overnight. You can make the jam up to five days in advance. Store, covered, in the fridge. Prep 10 min Chill 4 hr+ Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 8-10 For the sour cherry jam300g drained sour cherries (from a jar or frozen) 1 tbsp lemon juice 150g jam sugar (with pectin)1 tbsp kirsch (optional) For the white chocolate cream100g white chocolate, roughly chopped40g unsalted butter, soft but not oily140g cream cheese1 tbsp kirsch, or ¼ tsp almond extract (optional but highly recommended)140ml cold double cream For the crepes125g plain flour 2 tbsp (16g) unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting1 tbsp icing sugar ¼ tsp fine sea salt 2 large eggs 330ml milk 1 tbsp melted unsalted butter, plus extra for cooking the crepes1 tsp vanilla extract Put all the jam ingredients except the kirsch in a medium saucepan, place on a low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to medium, bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 10-15 minutes, until thick and syrupy – the timing will depend on how wide the pan is. Stir in the kirsch, if using, then transfer the jam to a small bowl and leave to cool. To make the white chocolate cream, put the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over, but not touching, a small pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally until melted, then leave to cool to tepid. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter with the paddle attachment on medium-high until smooth. Beat in the cream cheese, then pour in the melted chocolate and kirsch, if using, and mix until smooth. Add the cream, beat to soft peaks, then cover and chill for at least an hour (and up to two days). To make the crepes, sift the flour, cocoa, icing sugar and salt into a medium bowl. Make a well in the centre, crack in the eggs and whisk to break them up. Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly to form a smooth batter, then beat in the melted butter and vanilla.(Alternatively, put everything in a blender or food processor and blitz smooth. You'll need one large crepe (at least 23cm) and ten smaller ones (about 20cm). When ready to cook, set a large (25cm), nonstick crepe or frying pan on a medium heat. Add a little butter (about a quarter-teaspoon) and swirl it around with a piece of kitchen paper. Pour in 80ml of the batter and swirl to get a thin, even layer. Cook for about a minute, then flip and cook the other side until lightly golden. Transfer to a plate. Swap to a smaller (20cm) nonstick crepe or frying pan and heat well. Repeat the above process to make 10 smaller crepes, adding a swipe of butter and using a scant 60ml batter each time. Stack and cover the crepes as you go. To assemble, lay two long pieces of clingfilm perpendicular to each other on a worktop to form a large cross. Put the large crepe in the centre and spread a thin, even layer of white chocolate cream (about 80g) over the surface. Place a smaller crepe in the centre and spread with about 50g of cherry jam. Continue layering, alternating between 50g cream and 50g jam, finishing with a plain crepe on top. Once all the crepes are stacked, gently gather the edges of clingfilm up and over the cake, pulling firmly so the larger crepe curves up around the edges of the stack of small crepes. Twist the clingfilm tightly in the centre and secure with a clip, then transfer clip side up to a large pasta bowl or similar container to help hold its curved shape. Refrigerate for at least three hours, or overnight. To serve, unwrap and remove the clingfilm, invert the cake on to a serving plate so the seam is underneath and dust generously with cocoa powder.
