
NZOA has saved reality TV and soaps – what about all the shows left to die?
Funding announcements from NZ on Air are not typically newsworthy in and of themselves. The agency functions as a local version of the BBC, but instead of existing as a non-commercial umbrella brand, it funds a variety of media which runs across a wide range of largely commercial mediums and platforms. Funded work often consists of a mix of returning shows and new projects, which are either predictable (another season of Q+A, or a fresh David Lomas project) or largely unknown (another murder in rural New Zealand, cast tbc).
The most recent round was strikingly different, making news in a way which reveals challenges to the agency's model, and shows just how bad the choices are for NZ on Air now. Three very familiar shows collectively received more than $5m in funding. They are Shortland Street, Celebrity Treasure Island and The Traitors NZ. All are broad in their appeal and comparatively popular. Yet none would have been considered good candidates for funding until very recently.
That's because NZ on Air was set up to address a market failure. Due to our small population, some forms of 'programming reflecting New Zealand identity and culture' (according to its legislation) are not commercially viable. The legislation makes specific reference to 'drama and documentary', with everything else somewhat in the eye of the beholder.
For decades that meant scripted shows (such as comedy and drama) were NZ on Air's core business, while most other formats (from current affairs to breakfast TV) were commercially funded, due to TV networks being able to sell enough ads to make them on their own terms. That didn't mean it lacked value, just that it didn't need the support. News is the canonical example of a commercially funded genre – TVNZ's 6pm bulletin remains among the highest-rated shows on television, despite costing a bomb to make.
Reality TV wasn't even a genre when NZ on Air was founded, and the agency has tended to be fairly circumspect in its funding of it over the years, only getting involved when, as with Match Fit, or Popstars, it fulfilled another worthy goal. Shortland Street, our only true soap, was briefly funded as a kind of TV startup, but cranked along under its own steam for decades afterwards. This was helpful because reality TV and soaps are considered less intellectually nutritious by the kind of people who care about the culture we fund.
The end of that era
This has not been an uncontested idea. Critics, including those at The Spinoff, and the makers of reality TV have long felt that NZ on Air was too prescriptive in its definition of 'reflecting New Zealand identity and culture'. They believe that reality TV and soaps are popular, show a diverse range of New Zealanders and bring voices, vernacular and perspectives to our screens, just as scripted comedy and drama do.
This past week, they won the argument. Shortland Street has returned for a second funded season, after last year accessing two different strands of public funding to stay on air. More striking was the return of The Traitors NZ and Celebrity Treasure Island, two shows which had previously been commercially funded. Celebrity Treasure Island is a revival of an '00s-era format, and has drawn praise for its use of Te Reo Māori and addressing 'complex issues like ageism, sexism and queer politics, all on primetime mainstream television', according to my colleague Tara Ward. The Traitors NZ is a hit local version of a smash international format, with a diverse cast and a strong strain of New Zealand-specific humour.
In addition to the cultural arguments, there's also a broader systems-level case for their funding. The shows have consistently rated strongly, particularly with the kind of middle-aged audiences which have abandoned linear television over the past decade. The thinking goes that by keeping these tentpole shows on our screens, you also help keep our networks and production companies viable.
The path not taken
Despite the solid arguments in favour, there remains a case against, too. To contemplate it, you only need to cast your mind back to a little over a year ago. It was a bonfire of the journalists. We lost longform current affairs stalwart Sunday, the venerable consumer rights show Fair Go, the magazine-style 7pm staple The Project and, most wrenchingly, the whole Newshub operation, all in the space of a few harrowing months.
The death of those shows was attributed to the awful financial equation facing TV networks. That despite all rating very strongly, at least by comparison to the rest of the schedule, none could justify the investment required to keep them running. It was a shocking, visceral event, one which made New Zealand a cautionary tale across the Tasman – the country you need to look hard at to figure out how to avoid its fate.
Now, a year on, and NZ on Air has been persuaded by the arguments of TVNZ and Three, that these reality TV and soap formats are too important to be allowed to die. To be clear, none of Shortland Street, Celebrity Treasure Island or The Traitors NZ is fully funded. The budgets aren't public, but production industry sources suggest the agency's investment would cover no more than 50% of the associated costs, and perhaps considerably less.
Still, the risk of moral hazard is clear. The networks and production companies have established that no show is beyond help, and as audiences decline, there is a manifest case for continually topping up the public funding component of budgets. The implication is that paradoxically, as they get less popular and ad revenue declines, they should receive more help.
None of which is to say these decisions are wrong in isolation. But looking at the slate of what we publicly fund now, we seem a long way from home. Pulpy true crime documentaries, reality TV shows with large chunks devoted to selling McDonalds, regularly re-named shows built around the interests of a single comedian.
Still, what else can we do? Linear TV audience decline is a global phenomenon, and no public or private broadcaster has successfully ported their audiences across to digital at the same scale as they once had, let alone been able to defend the same advertising revenues. NZ on Air faces bad choices everywhere as it seeks to fulfil its mission and defend its model. It may not have even been given the chance to save the news.
But as we slip gently into a new era, where everything which can be argued can be funded, it's important to remember the shows we didn't save too. And ask whether the foundational mission of NZ on Air is better served by what we kept, or what we threw away.
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NZ Herald
27 minutes ago
- NZ Herald
Cabinet paper leak suggests Minister Nicole McKee's U-turn on alcohol sales reform
The draft Cabinet paper says restricting opening hours could have had a major impact on violent crime – preventing 2400 'violent victimisations' each year. But that move has now been axed. A Ministry of Justice email, also leaked to RNZ, shows justice officials 'were directed by Minister McKee to proceed with speed to lodge a revised Cabinet paper' to go before a Cabinet committee on August 13. 'The focus of the paper had changed during negotiations - it is now on reducing regulatory burden with some of the harm reduction measures no longer included - e.g. reducing maximum default trading hours.' McKee told RNZ it was regrettable her draft Cabinet paper was leaked. 'I won't be discussing a few cherry-picked parts of a draft paper through the media before I've even had an opportunity to discuss the issue with my Cabinet colleagues,' she said in a statement to RNZ. 'I am extremely disappointed that a draft Cabinet paper has been shared with media. This undermines the integrity of the public service and erodes New Zealanders' trust in public servants.' 'Strong correlation' between off-licence opening hours and violent crime The leaks show that in an early version of her Cabinet paper, McKee proposed to restrict bottle store opening hours to between 9am and 9pm in a bid to reduce violent crime. 'I am focused on hazardous drinking which can lead to violent crime. Evidence shows a strong correlation between later opening hours for off-licenses and violent crime,' the Cabinet paper originally said. 'Ministry of Justice analysis indicates that bringing forward the closing hour to 9pm could see up to 2400 fewer violent victimisations annually.' The paper said restricting opening hours would reduce sales revenue for off-licences, as about 20% of sales were made between 8pm and 11pm and about 2% before 9am. The paper originally said the impacts on business had been 'weighed carefully' against the benefits of reducing violent crime. But the leaks show this was changed in a later version. 'I am not proposing any changes to the maximum trading hours for license holders,' McKee wrote in the updated paper, noting Auckland and Christchurch had already set a 9pm closing time under their Local Alcohol Policies. 'I consider that this is sufficient to manage concerns around license hours.' Focus now on 'reducing red tape' for law-abiding businesses McKee would not be interviewed by RNZ, but confirmed her reforms would now focus on making it easier for businesses in the alcohol industry. 'My focus is on reducing red tape restricting businesses and New Zealanders who play by the rules. The law Labour left us with is a mess,' she said. The draft Cabinet paper obtained by RNZ shows McKee is now proposing to make it easier for clubs and bars to serve alcohol outside normal trading hours when screening major sport or cultural events. McKee's Cabinet paper also proposes giving the alcohol industry more power when faced with objections to liquor licences. The paper says changes in 2023 allowed any person or group to oppose a liquor licence but that McKee wants to overturn this so objections only come from the community impacted. 'To better balance community voice and impacts on business I seek agreement to only allow objections to licensing applications by people or groups and organisations in the same territorial authority as the premises.' There are also moves to protect businesses impacted by changes to a council's Local Alcohol Policy (LAP) – where communities determine when and how alcohol is sold. 'To protect existing businesses if a LAP is adopted or amended I also seek agreement to prevent a DLC (District Licensing Committee) from declining a renewal application if the license would be inconsistent with the relevant LAP.' The changes would also give applicants for a liquor licence a right of reply to objections received in DLC hearings. Andrew Galloway, executive director of Alcohol Healthwatch, funded by the Ministry of Health, said reducing trading hours for bottle stores and supermarkets would have had a major impact on reducing alcohol harm. 'Off-licences sell over 80% of alcohol in Aotearoa and these off-licences are over-concentrated in the most deprived areas. Restricting off-licence supply of alcohol would be especially important in reducing alcohol-related harm.' Galloway said that when he became aware the Government was looking at restricting off-licence trading hours, he said to his team 'we should prepare for a U-turn' once industry lobbying swung into action. 'We will continue to miss every meaningful opportunity to reduce or prevent alcohol harm in New Zealand if we continue to allow unbridled access to power for harmful commodity industries.' -RNZ


Newsroom
2 hours ago
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Making heated tobacco products cheaper than cigarettes is no scandal
Opinion: The Government's decision to introduce a lower excise rate for heated tobacco products (HTPs) has been widely framed as 'giving tax breaks to tobacco companies'. It's a provocative line – and politically potent – but it doesn't help us have an honest, evidence-informed discussion about how to reduce smoking harm, particularly for the most disadvantaged New Zealanders, or how to deal with conflicts of interest. Let's be clear: this isn't a corporate subsidy, so long as the reduced tax is passed on with cheaper products. It's an excise adjustment applied to a class of tobacco products that heat rather than burn tobacco. (Like vaping products, HTPs are marketed as smoke-free alternatives to cigarettes, but are not the same thing.) Combustion is what makes smoking lethal. Cigarettes burn at over 800C, releasing thousands of toxic compounds. Heated tobacco products operate at much lower temperatures and don't produce smoke – just an aerosol – with far fewer harmful constituents. That distinction matters. The multinational tobacco company Philip Morris does hold a monopoly over HTPs in New Zealand. That's not ideal, but it doesn't mean the tax policy exists for Philip Morris International. The intention is to make a less harmful product more affordable than cigarettes – a principle long accepted in tobacco harm reduction, and already applied to vaping. Unfortunately, it appears Philip Morris International hasn't yet passed on the tax savings to the small number of HTP users in New Zealand – this is the real scandal. In addition, the apparent impact of PMI on government policy is tough to ignore, and contrary to the WHO Framework Convention on Tobacco Control, which seeks to protect government policy from tobacco industry influence. New Zealand has rightly taxed cigarettes heavily to deter use. But excise taxes are also regressive. The remaining people who smoke – fewer than 7 percent of adults – are disproportionately Māori, Pasifika, low-income, and more likely to experience mental health distress. The associate minister of health, Casey Costello, justified the excise differential by citing relative harm reduction and the growing inequity of uniform excise. Her reasoning deserves more attention than it has been given. Critics argue there's insufficient evidence that HTPs help people quit, but the UK Office for Health Improvement and Disabilities, the UK Committee on Toxicity, and the US Food and Drug Administration all acknowledge HTPs reduce exposure to toxicants compared with cigarettes. That doesn't make them harmless – but being less harmful than smoking is enough to warrant a differential tax. The example of Japan is instructive. There, HTPs make up over 30 percent of tobacco sales. Though vaping is banned, cigarette consumption has plummeted by 40 percent in some markets. Surveys suggest many smokers switched completely to HTPs. Youth uptake has been minimal. No policy is perfect, but that's a shift in the right direction. What's really at stake here? Not a tax break for big tobacco – but increasing the options for people who smoke and want to quit, and whether we believe in a response to nicotine products based on their comparative risks to human health as a foundation for public health policy. A more productive debate would ask: • Are they less harmful than cigarettes, and do they help smokers quit? • Are tax savings being passed on to consumers? • Are HTPs being promoted responsibly? • Will there be an independent evaluation of their impact on smoking rates? In a country that leads the world with its Smokefree 2025 goal, we should be asking how to accelerate the decline in smoking, not defending a one-size-fits-all excise regime that's increasingly disconnected from the realities of risk, behaviour, and equity. If HTPs can help some people switch, pricing them appropriately is not a scandal. It's a good policy – provided it's transparent, monitored, and grounded in evidence, and the tax savings are passed on to consumers.


NZ Herald
2 hours ago
- NZ Herald
Viva Wine Awards: NZ's Top 50 Wineries For 2025
Viva's NZ Wine Awards are back for another year. Wine editor Dr Jo Burzynska selects New Zealand's 50 most exciting wineries for 2025, and awards some special categories, including best for sauvignon blanc, best for the budget-conscious and best new winery. A WORD FROM OUR WINE EDITOR It's been another thrilling year for wine drinkers in Aotearoa. If anyone thought the country was just a producer of generic sauvignon blanc made by big players, this list proves the opposite. Sauvignon blanc has never encompassed so many exciting expressions, while our wineries are also making world-beating pinot noir, as well as distinctive versions of a growing range of other cool climate-suited varieties. It's the smaller wineries who are currently driving much of the interest. As some don't yet export, only lucky us get to drink here in New Zealand. Many of these don't own their own vineyards. However, an exciting trend evident from this year's winners is the growing focus of wineries in making distinctive wines from interesting single vineyards. Organic producers again make up the majority of the most thrilling – a choice many have made as best for quality, as well as for health and the planet. It's not been such a thrilling year for our wineries, however. While the last couple of vintages have been far easier than the tough 2023 vintage in many regions, the climate that's currently hurting our wineries is the economic one. Exports are down, while New Zealanders are drinking less wine year on year. The country's total wine sales are down by around 8% to the lowest level in the past two decades. Combine this with cost and excise increases that are eroding wineries' profitability, and New Zealand wineries are having it tough. We can assist here at home by choosing to drink our excellent homegrown wines. In my second story for this year's awards, published tomorrow, I've recommended one from each of my Top 50 wineries that is representative of what's so thrilling about that winery, and has particularly impressed. This year, Viva's most thrilling 50 wineries is adopting a slightly different format. I have once again selected a supreme winner, whose wines and approach have really stood out to me over the last 12 months. However, the main list is now split into Contemporary Classics (the longer established wineries), and New Wave Winners, comprising more recently launched enterprises. If you like sparkling, sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, structured reds, natural wines or budget buys, the category winners highlight wineries worth exploring. My selection also celebrates longevity in the wine business through the lifetime achievement award, and the most exciting new winery to watch in the year ahead. Deeply interesting and expressive wines, created with a spirit of considered innovation and collaboration, make Prophet's Rock Viva's very deserving Winery of the Year. At this Central Otago estate, winemaker Paul Pujol combines the best of Old World nous with New World innovation. Paul's approach is rooted in his formative years making wine in France. As well as working in Burgundy and Sancerre, he was the first non-family winemaker at Alsace's respected Domaine Kuentz-Bas since its founding in 1795. This experience instilled a focus on texture and age-worthiness, principles he now applies when making Prophet's Rock wines in the distinctive terroir of Central Otago. 'I was enamoured by the texture of Alsace wines,' Paul notes, a preference evident across his range. Unlike many New Zealand aromatic white wines, at Prophet's Rock these undergo a long, slow fermentation and rest on their yeast lees until the following harvest, with a further year of bottle age before release. This patient process builds complexity and Prophet's Rock's hallmark textural richness. This Alsatian influence is most apparent in his dry Pinot Gris, a contender for the country's finest. Where many local examples are simple and fruity, Pujol crafts a wine of serious intention and intensity. As he explains, Central Otago's dry, rain-shadowed climate allows the grapes to achieve full ripeness while retaining crucial acidity, resulting in a wine of impressive structure, freshness and flavour that I wager will convert any gris sceptics. While Alsace has helped shape Prophet's Rock's aromatic white wines, Burgundy has informed its chardonnay and pinot noir. This connection has been deepened through a significant collaboration with François Millet, the respected former winemaker of Burgundy's Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Their partnership has produced the Cuvée Aux Antipodes, a chardonnay and pinot noir that merge the philosophies of two hemispheres. The resulting pinot noir is a wine of great elegance and structure, reflecting both its Central Otago origins and its Burgundian inspiration. Paul's influences may be European but in his dedication to making wines that express where they're grown, Prophet's Rock's wines are vivid expressions of Central Otago terroir. This terroir is specifically that of the winery's estate vineyards, farmed organically for the most transparent expression of their three distinct sites. Its first Home vineyard was established between 1999 and 2000, high above the Bendigo Station Homestead on a rare combination of schist, quartz, clay and chalk. In southern Bendigo, its stony Rocky Point Vineyard has some of the steepest slopes in Central, while the Kopuwai Delta Vineyard overlooking the Clutha River adds loess, alluvium and river stones into the mix. For all its classical foundations, Prophet's Rock is not afraid to push boundaries. Pujol's experimental side is visible in Prophet's Rock's rare New Zealand Vin de Paille. Describing it as 'ancient wine style in modern hands', pinot gris grapes are dried in a barn before being fermented into luscious sweet wine. Pujol has also applied a fine-wine lens to creating vermouths in collaboration with Scapegrace distillers to create stunning aromatised wines with surprising complexity. It is this combination, knowledge of tradition and a quiet willingness to innovate, of Old World training and a sensitivity to Central Otago's terrain, that makes Prophet's Rock so significant. Prophet's Rock offers not just exceptional wines, but has a scope and focus that makes it a beacon for the direction of New Zealand wine. Top drop: Prophet's Rock Central Otago Pinot Gris 2023, $40 A drier, intense and complex style of pinot gris fermented in old neutral French oak. Its fresh and textural palate of ripe and pure quince, apple and white peach fruit is spiced with cinnamon and perfumed with florals. I was lucky to try the 2009 vintage of this wine recently, which had become delicously spicy and savoury with age, while still retaining its freshness and bright apple fruit. This is a wine that will also age beautifully over 10 or even more years. Contemporary Classics These are well-established wineries that have been delighting drinkers for 15 years or more. Rather than resting on their laurels, they have continued to develop and innovate. Listed in alphabetical order. ASTROLABE Marlborough Family-run and managed, Astrolabe crafts pure and precise wines from its organic home vineyard and diverse Marlborough grower sites. Under veteran winemaker Simon Waghorn, its commitment to terroir shines through, delivering wines that continue to captivate from across Marlborough. It is a pioneer in its most southerly Kēkerengu Coast subregion and I've been loving Astrolabe's distinctive expressions from these limestone soils. ATA RANGI Martinborough Under the sensitive guidance of winemaker Helen Masters, this historic Martinborough winery continues to craft some of the most compelling wines in the country. These are now made from 14 vineyards, which include its 1980 home block, as well as diverse grower sites, which produce distinctive expressions of pinot noir from across this classic New Zealand region. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for structured reds BILANCIA Hawke's Bay Warren Gibson, who's also chief winemaker at Trinity Hill, and partner Lorraine Leheny have been exploring notable single vineyard sites across Hawke's Bay. The result is a growing portfolio of distinctive chardonnay and syrah. This year, Viva celebrates their compelling red releases, which include the glorious return of a 2024 La Collina: Bilancia's, and arguably the country's, fragrant flagship syrah, absent for the previous two vintages. Made from their steep home vineyard, La Collina now joins other Bilancia syrahs that include the powerful and concentrated Trelinnoe Syrah, sourced from a vineyard across the hill, which spends longer mellowing in oak. Such site-specific syrahs, each with its own character and approach, highlight Bilancia's dedication to crafting reds of depth and refinement. Their ability to navigate challenging vintages, as seen in previous years, further underscores their commitment to quality. BLACK ESTATE North Canterbury Since the Naish family purchased their Home Vineyard in 2007, and with Nicolas Brown at the winemaking helm, Black Estate has established itself as one of the most consistently engaging wineries of Waipara, and Aotearoa. The three vineyards that now make up the estate are farmed organically, biodynamically and regeneratively, which, combined with Brown's sensitive winemaking, result in truly compelling releases. CAMBRIDGE ROAD Martinborough From its organic and biodynamically managed home vineyard base on the classic Martinborough Terrace, unconventional winemaker Lance Redgwell is always experimenting. This includes making his minimal intervention and additive-free wines using barrels made with native timber rather than just the French oak that dominates New Zealand wine. His intriguing range, made from three sites across Martinborough, includes the addition of new Rhône whites bearing impressive fruits from Cambridge Road's home vineyard. CHURTON Marlborough If New Zealand had Grand Cru vineyards, Churton's family-owned organic and biodynamically farmed hillside site in the Waihopai Valley would certainly be one of these. With a three-decade history, its wines are now made by a second generation, Ben Weaver, who continues in his father's footsteps, guiding these grapes into deeply distinctive wines. CLOUDY BAY Marlborough/Central Otago This year, Cloudy Bay celebrates the 40th anniversary of its first trailblazing sauvignon release. Its elegant flagship is still among the best, joined now by the stylish Pelorus méthode traditionnelles, and pinot noirs that include the rising classic Te Wahi from its more recent Central Otago outpost. Its special releases also include a syrah and gamay. COAL PIT Central Otago Coal Pit has slowly burnt into my consciousness as the maker of consistently elegant and savoury pinot noir, as well as a smart dry rosé. At this small certified organic family vineyard in the cool Gibbston subregion of Central Otago grapes are grown, handpicked and made into wines on-site by young, internationally experienced winemaker Anika Willner. CRAGGY RANGE Hawke's Bay/Martinborough Developments at Craggy Range in recent years include incorporating regenerative practices and a gradual conversion to organics in its vineyards. In the winery, new winemaker Ben Tombs has been building texture into its sauvignon blanc by increased use of barrel fermentation, amphora and extended lees contact. The 2024 releases under his guidance continue to impress. DOG POINT Marlborough No longer a pup, Dog Point is now 21. Over these quality-filled years making wines from New Zealand's largest certified organic vineyard, this family-owned establishment, one of the oldest privately established vineyards, is now in the capable hands of the second generation. They continue to craft wines with poise, personality and power. DOCTOR'S FLAT Central Otago For more than 15 years, Steve Davies has focused on making just one pinot noir from his organic Bannockburn vineyard. This singular vision applied to his tiny elevated site has resulted in a consistently exciting and distinctive expression of pinot. Steve also thinks it is a great place for chardonnay and has just bottled its first small crop. FELTON ROAD Central Otago From the biodynamic and organically farmed Felton Road vineyards, Blair Walter crafts exquisite pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling that encourage contemplation. While expressing classic rich and bright Bannockburn fruit, his eloquent yet quietly spoken wines take time to unfurl their many fascinating layers. They're also delicious after some years in the cellar. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for sauvignon blanc FOLIUM Marlborough At the 8-hectare organic Folium vineyard in the Brancott Valley, Takaki Okada is one of the few Marlborough producers whose sauvignon blanc receives no irrigation. He considers dry farming particularly beneficial to the quality of his white wines, encouraging the vines' roots to penetrate more deeply into the soil. With incredibly low yields from a vineyard where Okada does almost everything himself, the result is deeply distinctive handcrafted sauvignons. 'Most alternative sauvignon styles are made with winemaking techniques such as skin contact. However, I want to create something different in the vineyard,' he states. As a recent tasting of his 2014 Reserve Sauvignon furthermore confirmed, his elegant textural sauvignons also age with grace. FRAMINGHAM Marlborough Framingham's first wine released was a 1994 riesling. It has continued its commitment to this fine but underrated variety, making some of our greatest examples in a range of styles. Bought by Mateus owner Sogrape some years back, it's nevertheless managed to continue to operate outside of the mainstream, notably in its excellent, boundary-pushing F-Series range. GREYWACKE Marlborough A family-run winery founded in 2009 by ex-Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd, which makes concentrated and harmonious wines from Marlborough's main varieties. Its winemaking is now in the highly capable hands of Richelle Tyney, who has centuries-old connections to the upper South Island through her Te Tauihu iwi roots. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for the budget conscious GROVE MILL Marlborough Grove Mill has had many iterations since it was founded by a group of local grape growers in the 1980s. Now part of the Foley Family Wines stable, alongside the likes of Martinborough Vineyard and Vavasour, it's retained many of its sustainable credentials. The winery uses solar power, renewable sugarcane labels, locally sourced lightweight bottles, and has undertaken wetland restoration around the winery. Its wines consistently punch well above their weight in terms of value for money, with an appealing pinot noir, sophisticated chardonnay, fresh pear-fruited pinot gris, and vibrant sauvignon blanc that all retail at $20 or under. ISABEL ESTATE Marlborough Chardonnay was the first grape planted at Isabel Estate back in 1980, when it was one of the first wave of vineyards in Marlborough. Chardonnay is certainly having a moment today at Isabel under dynamic winemaker Jeremy Mackenzie, who makes a fine array, alongside a solid selection of other varietals. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for chardonnay KUMEU RIVER Auckland While a relative newcomer in Kumeu River's 80-year history, chardonnay has become both the winery's and arguably the country's flagship example. Kumeu River winemaker, Master of Wine Michael Brajkovich, set out in the 1980s to craft a white Burgundy-style wine with barrel and malolactic fermentation that demonstrated just how seriously good New Zealand chardonnay could be, even when grown in the challenging climes of Kūmeu. Kumeu River began by making only their Estate chardonnay, but as time progressed, vineyards that emerged as unique began to be kept separate, starting with Mate's Vineyard in 1993 and most recently expanding to the Rays Road vineyard in Hawke's Bay. A recent tasting of older vintages reinforced just how consistently excellent and ageworthy Kumeu River's chardonnays are. MILLTON Gisborne New Zealand's first organic and biodynamic wine estate continues to inspire with its pure and expressive wines made from three individual Gisborne vineyards in the ocean-cooled Manutuke subregion. A chenin blanc champion, Millton's examples just get better and better, along with elegant chardonnays and the eclectic natural Libiamo range. MOUNT EDWARD Central Otago From classic to quirky, there's always plenty of interest to be found in the organic wines of Mount Edward. This year, its pinot noirs have been particularly impressive across the board, from its stellar single-vineyard wines, such as the flagship Muirkirk, to its everyday, ultra-practical Big Ted Bag-in-Box. NEUDORF Nelson 'We have an exceptional site here at Neudorf and it demands little from us in the winery. If we can guide grapes into wine of integrity, without buggering it up, we are content,' says winemaker Todd Stevens, who should indeed be content in producing some of Aotearoa's top chardonnay, great pinot and fine albarino in this pioneering Nelson winery. NO 1 FAMILY ESTATE Marlborough After pioneering méthode traditionnelle in New Zealand, 12th-generation Champenois Daniel Le Brun has overseen 45 years of fine Marlborough méthode traditionnelle. From its great value Assemble NV to top vintage Cuvée Adèle, every wine's a winner at this sparkling specialist. PEGASUS BAY North Canterbury Mat Donaldson may have handed over Pegasus Bay's winemaking reins, but the transition appears seamless by the taste of the flagship Canterbury winery's latest releases. Under new head winemaker, Marie Dufour – who worked with Mat for a decade – these continue to blend power and elegance. This consistency is supported by the winery's long-serving staff and the active role played by brothers Ed and Paul Donaldson in this family-run enterprise. PYRAMID VALLEY North Canterbury Pyramid Valley continues to craft incredibly distinctive wines from its home Waikari vineyard, while expanding its production across the country. From the 2024 vintage, it has five chardonnays, likely becoming the first New Zealand producer to make high-end chardonnay from three regions: Hawke's Bay, North Canterbury and Central Otago. Look out for the first of these new releases, the 2024 Pyramid Valley Kererū Road Chardonnay from the Two Terraces Vineyard in Hawke's Bay. CATEGORY WINNER: Lifetime Achievement Award QUARTZ REEF Central Otago Austrian-born Rudi Bauer's vision to plant the first commercial vines on the terra incognita of Bendigo Station back in 1998 has borne remarkable fruit. Bendigo is now an important Central Otago subregion, where Quartz Reef has its 30 hectares of vines, planted over two certified organic and biodynamic vineyards. From these, it has been consistently producing some of the region's and country's finest pinot noir, with Bauer's astute winemaking ensuring the inherent power of the terroir emerges in elegant form. In recent years its estate pinot has been joined by several exceptional single-ferment wines made from single parcels selected at harvest to best express the vineyard and vintage. Quartz Reef also produces some of Aotearoa's finest méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines, initially developed from a collaboration between Bauer and winemaker Clothilde Chauvet from Champagne. Bauer also crafts an elegant pinot gris, with his Austrian heritage applied to Quartz Reef's excellent grüner veltliner. RIPPON Central Otago At Rippon, the Mills family have farmed their schist site on the banks of Lake Wānaka for four generations. Current generation Nick Mills farms the land biodynamically, making wines that transmit this special place. These span the central Mature Vine Pinot Noir that represents the whole estate, to specific blocks identified as possessing consistent textural markers that are released as individual wines. TE MATA Hawke's Bay It is the mark of a fine winery to make great wines in a difficult year. This was the case in the 2023 vintage for the historic Te Mata winery, owned now for half a century by the Buck family. The 2023 vintage brought the winery's longest growing season and lowest yields. Despite the challenges, meticulous fruit selection means the estate's wines are still looking great. TE WHARE RA Marlborough Husband and wife team, Jason and Anna Flowerday, craft pure and characterful wines in Marlborough from their organic family home vineyard in Renwick and Jason's parents' property in the Awatere Valley. Their continued focus on building organic matter levels in their soils meant that, unlike some in Marlborough for the 2024 vintage, they were not impacted by the drought, and their whole range of wines shines. TOHU Nelson/Marlborough Aotearoa's first Māori-owned wine company was established in 1998 through a partnership between three tribal groups. Making a strong range of wines from its vineyards in Nelson and Marlborough, its Whenua single-vineyard range has been the source of some particularly impressive wines. Guided by a 500-year plan, an intergenerational strategy to leave the land in a better state than inherited, has led Tohu to transition some vineyards to organic, foster biodiversity and certify its carbon reduction. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for pinot noir VALLI Central Otago/Waitaki Valley Before founding Valli, Grant Taylor honed his pinot winemaking skills over 18 years of experience in the US, Australia and France. He was one of the earliest winemakers to come to Central Otago back in 1993, when there were only 20 hectares planted. He went on to make some of the region's first wave of pinots at a number of important wineries. His main focus is now on his own winery, Valli, which he established in 1998, and where he was joined in the winemaking by Jen Parr in 2015. Valli has led a subregional approach to pinot, with its releases Valli taking you on an exciting trip across Central Otago. Valli's highly distinctive examples not only hail from its founding Gibbston vineyard, but sites in Bendigo, Bannockburn and most recently Pisa, as well as in North Otago's Waitaki Valley, where Taylor is now based. New wave wineries Many of these wineries might only have been around for less than a decade, but have already impressed by the expressive and exciting nature of their wines. AMOISE Hawke's Bay After living and working in various wine regions across the world, Amy Farnsworth started Amoise in 2018. There, she's making beautifully pure and distinctive organic natural wines with lots of care and zero additives. She works with a number of non-mainstream varieties such as chenin blanc and albarino, sourced from the organic Two Terraces and TK vineyards, fermented in a variety of vessels, including Spanish tinajas and large spherical Dolium. ATIPICO Marlborough Jordan Hogg has been making some fascinating wines since launching his organic Atípico label in 2021. These include some fermented 'vinsitu' in barrels outdoors in the vineyards for a greater sense of place, with a small range that spans field blends that can involve pinot noir being fermented with pinot blanc and pinot gris, alongside refreshing new takes on the Marlborough classics of sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. BLANK CANVAS Marlborough Master of Science and Master of Wine respectively, Matt Thomson and Sophie Parker-Thomson make a diverse array of single-vineyard small-batch wines from around New Zealand. From a Gimblett Gravels syrah to a Marlborough grüner veltliner, as well as some standout Marlborough sauvignons, the one thing that unites all Blank Canvas wines is their interest and quality. BROOD FERMENTATION Nelson After working in beer and wine, from Adelaide to Oregon, winemaker Jim Brown and brewer Lauren Yap landed in Nelson, attracted by its mix of hops and grapes. There, they have been making fresh and interesting wines, from their own and other organic vineyards, employing biodynamic practices and minimal winemaking intervention. They also make great beer. BRYTERLATER North Canterbury Bryterlater makes intriguing textural and acid-focused wines from selected organically farmed vineyards in North Canterbury. Founded in 2013 by winemaker James Graves Opie on his return from making wine in Tasmania, Bryterlater now has its own winery in Waipara, shared with kindred local label 15 Minute Bottles, with which it also makes the collaborative Matter of Time label, whose wines are also worth seeking out. COROFIN Marlborough Microvintners Mike and Anna Paterson make compelling pinot noir and chardonnay from some of Marlborough's most interesting vineyards. All their wines are small-batch and organic-certified, and mostly single-block. However, from 2021 they introduced a pinot noir and chardonnay that are assemblages of the five vineyards they work with, which offer a fascinating lens through which to see these varieties in Marlborough each vintage. HALCYON DAYS Hawke's Bay Amy and Olly Hopkinson-Styles make certified organic wines from Te Matau a Māui Hawke's Bay with an incredibly light touch. Using grapes from the Osawa and Two Terraces vineyards in Mangatahi, Halcyon Days' moreish, additive-free wines range from a hard-to-get sparkling chenin blanc to the very rare New Zealand sangiovese that has become its flagship red. HUNTRESSS Wairarapa Hunter-winemaker Jannine Rickards (Ngā Puhi, Ngāi Te Rangi) has extended the range of her engaging small-batch wines beyond her home base in the Wairarapa, which now encompasses wines from North Canterbury and Hawke's Bay. September brings the release of Matiti, a new pet-nat made in collaboration with the Papawhakaritorito Trust, which undertakes research, education and development in relation to Māori food sovereignty. KENZIE Hawke's Bay After 15 years making Arfion and Salo wines in the Yarra Valley, ultra-creative Dave Mackintosh returned to Aotearoa, where he's been pushing the boundaries of style with his Kenzie label. Working with small sustainable and organic independent growers across diverse sites throughout Hawke's Bay, his lo-fi wines range from elegant chardonnay to eclectic blends and a top albarino, often sporting his own art on the label. MARATHON DOWNS Marlborough Marathon Downs is the project of viticulturist Jess Barnes and winemaker Nick Pett. Inspired to make their own wines over the Covid lockdown, they were initially from Jess's family vineyard in the Awatere. The couple are planting their own small vineyard that will add the likes of gamay to their characterful range of minimal-input wines, which include alternative-style sauvignons, and a rare, recently released Marlborough syrah viognier. MOKO HILLS Central Otago Ecology and wine go hand in hand at Moko Hills. Prior to becoming the primary winegrower of his 40-hectare Bendigo family estate, Moko's Donald van der Westhuizen was a research ecologist. As well as making distinctive and elegant pinot noirs and chardonnay since the vineyard's first vintage in 2020, he is engaging in ecological restoration work to conserve its natural landscape for future generations. CATEGORY WINNER: Best New Winery ORATERRA Martinborough One of the most anticipated launches of the last 12 months came from Oraterra. Despite being from the tricky 2023 vintage, the first trio of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris it released did not disappoint. Winemaker Wilco Lam describes his focus at Oraterra as being 'more on texture and mouthfeel, less so on aromatic profiling'. Oraterra is a blend of what was once the On Giants Shoulders vineyard, with the former team of the iconic Dry River winery, who opted to move on when the winery was sold. Oraterra has since secured itself a winery and further vineyards on or around the Martinborough Terrace, all managed organically with biodynamic treatments. An important new player in Martinborough wine. SIREN WINE Marlborough Since returning to Marlborough in 2020 after stints at some of the world's most notable organic estates, Ashleigh Barrowman has swiftly established Siren Wines as the producer of highly distinctive, savoury and intriguing single-vineyard, single-varietal wines. All her minimal intervention wines are made from the organic Wrekin Vineyard. TAKAHIRO K North Canterbury Takahiro Koyama came to New Zealand from Japan in 2003 to study winemaking, joining Mountford before starting Koyama wines. For the last two years, he has been crafting distinctive, small-batch wines from organically managed vineyards under his Takahiro K label. Reflecting different soils and topographies, these include pinot noirs from sites across Waipara, as well as Central Otago, and a knockout Waipara riesling. THREE FATES Hawke's Bay It's been five years since fate threw three furloughed women winemakers together to make wine from a small vineyard in Maraekakaho. Holly Girven Russell, Hester Nesbitt and Casey Motley named the project Three Fates, making deliciously drinkable wines from the vineyard's unusual mix of albarino, arneis and cabernet franc. Although they lost this vineyard with the death of its owner, they are now working with new sites and engaging a number of winemaking collaborations. TANTALUS Waiheke Island Planted in 1998, the Tantalus Estate vineyard in Waiheke's Onetangi Valley has been producing small-batch Bordeaux and Rhône-style blends since its inaugural vintage in 2014. Purchased by the Aitken family in 2016, its new owners' commitment to making thoughtful and sustainable wine is reflected in the gravity-fed winery they have built into a hillside, as well as new vessels, such as concrete eggs. Its current releases of syrah and chardonnay are particularly of note. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for natural wine A THOUSAND GODS Waihopai, Marlborough A Thousand Gods provides compelling evidence that natural wine can be fine wine, in their pure and captivating expressions made from the organic Churton vineyard. Inspired by their experiences working with leading natural wineries in Europe, Lauren Keanan and Simon Sharp brought the 'Zero-Zero' philosophy of winemaking back with them to Aotearoa. Aiming to craft clean, age-worthy wines without any additives, they have achieved this by taking time, using quality fruit, and employing meticulous winemaking. This past year has seen the release of what is likely New Zealand's first dry petit manseng, No Devices. It is an incredibly rare wine, as there is only one hectare planted in Aotearoa, and has typically been made in sweeter styles. CATEGORY WINNER: Best for bubbles VILAURA Hawke's Bay Jascha Oldham-Selak and Sanne Witteveen began making méthode traditionnelle while studying winemaking together in Hawke's Bay. Upon graduating, Jascha, from the historic Selak winemaking family, was captivated by traditional sparkling winemaking, while Sanne lived and worked in Champagne for a harvest. As Vilaura, they specialise exclusively in making fine méthode traditionnelle from New Zealand's key growing regions: Marlborough, Central Otago and Hawke's Bay, making their first vintage in 2019. Following the launch of this first wine two years ago, their focus and expertise has quickly established Vilaura as the producer of some of the country's most refined sparkling wines. THE WREKIN VINEYARD Marlborough Andrew and Jan Johns purchased their Fairhall Valley estate 23 years ago, initially to farm sheep and cattle, but on the advice of a soil scientist, planted pinot noir, chardonnay and chenin blanc. Their organic and biodynamic vineyard has been supplying grapes to some of Marlborough's leading organic winemakers, and now the Johns release their own fresh and distinctive vineyard-focused wines, grown by Jeremy Hyland and now made by legendary local winemaker, Hatsch Kalberer.