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Napier makes Lonely Planet list of 15 cities with ‘most tantalising food scenes'

Napier makes Lonely Planet list of 15 cities with ‘most tantalising food scenes'

NZ Herald21-05-2025
But for those in the know about Hawke's Bay's epic and burgeoning food scene, it wasn't a shock at all - just a nice surprise.
Italian chef-turned-bartender Andrea Marseglia hadn't heard of the review, which mentions his Emerson St Teresa Bar, until Hawke's Bay Today hit him up.
'Oh wow! What a cool write-up!,' he said, having just returned from Slovakia, where the bar featured at a Mirror Hospitality Expo in Bratislava.
Even the return is a celebration for Marseglia, who received his New Zealand passport on Wednesday, having last week been recognised as a New Zealand citizen in a ceremony in Napier.
That's part of the story of Napier's hospitality scene at the moment - new cultures adding vibrancy and different tastes.
On Lonely Planet 's list it is followed by South American destinations Lima and Belém, European hangouts Palermo, Lyon, Porto and Georgian capital Tbilisi, Bristol, stateside haunts Charleston and Buffalo, and Marrakesh.
Napier was commended by Queensland-based destination editor for Oceania Jessica Lockhart, who spread the wings a bit by giving the first mention to Craggy Range, near Havelock North.
That suggests it's not just Napier's foods being celebrated, but all Hawke's Bay's.
The full Lonely Planet listing:
'There's no question that Gatsby would have felt right at home in Napier, New Zealand – and it's not just because of its well-preserved Art Deco downtown.
'In the Hawke's Bay region, pleasure is the priority, whether that means sampling the good drop at one of the 80-odd wineries; taking a foodie tour with Juliet Harbutt, one of the world's leading experts on cheese; or dining at one of its half dozen 'hatted' restaurants (NZ's answer to Michelin stars) including Craggy Range or Pacifica.
'Hawke's Bay's long hot summers and fertile soils are to credit for its orchards laden with peaches, figs, kiwis, cherries, peaches and plums.
'There's more to do here than stuff yourself silly, though – immerse yourself in the culture of Aotearoa (NZ's Māori language name). Instead of terroir, producers speak of tūrangawaewae, which translates loosely as 'a place to stand'.
'Its meaning goes deeper than provenance – it's also about kaitiakitanga, intergenerational guardianship of the land. In Havelock North, Heretaunga Wine Studio dives into this concept during its immersive multi-sensory tastings, but you'll feel this sense of place at most establishments.
'At Teresa, a 25-seat speakeasy tucked behind a deli in Napier, bartenders imbue cocktails with endemic ingredients like kawakawa (a herbaceous shrub) and horopito (pepper tree), all served with a side of high drama. (Think: eight-inch-high towers of flavoured foam and popping candy garnishes.) Time your visit for the region's biggest food festival, F.A.W.C. (Food and Wine Classic), held annually in both the summer and winter.'
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The Alps: Best activities for families with toddlers
The Alps: Best activities for families with toddlers

NZ Herald

time3 days ago

  • NZ Herald

The Alps: Best activities for families with toddlers

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The Spinoff essay: The Odessa Steps
The Spinoff essay: The Odessa Steps

The Spinoff

time6 days ago

  • The Spinoff

The Spinoff essay: The Odessa Steps

Bob Kerr remembers his trip to Ukraine in 2004. 'Do not travel to Ukraine due to Russia's invasion and ongoing military aggression. There is a real risk to life.' – The New Zealand Safe Travel website, 2025. It wasn't always like this. Our 2004 copy of Lonely Planet told us that it was 'possible to travel across the Black Sea from Istanbul to Odessa by ferry, but don't bother, it's too difficult'. It gave the phone number of one travel agent in Odessa. We rang. 'Yes, I can make a booking for you.' said Galina, 'I will fax you the details.' The fax said we should pick up our tickets from the shipping office in Istanbul then report to the vessel, the MV. Gloriya, an hour before departure. It seemed simple enough. Two months later in Istanbul we climbed three flights of stairs to the shipping company's office. The floor was dusty, walls unpainted. A man in a blue shirt glanced at the faxes Galina had sent us. 'I'll ring the captain,' he said. Indicating two wooden chairs, he disappeared into the next office. Thirty minutes later Hazel knocked on the office door. 'I haven't heard back from the captain,' said the man in the blue shirt. 'The ship will be leaving in an hour.''said Hazel. The man shrugged. There was a phone number on the bottom of Galina's fax. Hazel rang, Galina answered. 'Let me speak to him,' Galina said. 'Eminonu Pier,' sighed the man in the blue shirt as he handed the phone back. 'You'll have to run.' As we arrived at Eminonu Pier, five taxis pulled up and women in black high heels and tight pink miniskirts spilled out. The officer at the bottom of the gangplank smiled and removed the rope, the women walked up the gangway towing huge plastic suitcases. A group of men in vinyl jackets arrived. One handed the officer a magazine. The officer opened the magazine, took out some notes and handed the magazine back. The rope was removed; the men walked up on to the ship. The rope was hooked back. We followed. 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12 reasons why Newtown is the tastiest suburb in Wellington
12 reasons why Newtown is the tastiest suburb in Wellington

The Spinoff

time7 days ago

  • The Spinoff

12 reasons why Newtown is the tastiest suburb in Wellington

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There are, of course, so many more than below, but here's a list to get us going. Mediterranean Foods Trattoria & Deli Walk through the sliding glass doors, turn left and enter a cornucopia of all things southern European. There are shelves of pasta shapes you didn't even know existed. There are fridges stacked with imported cured meats and cheeses: lardo, mortadella, guanciale, aged pecorino romano. There are cans of pickled and preserved vegetables, jars of olives the size of a small car and even those breadsticks you get in bad Italian restaurants. Newday Coffee I spend far too much time here. The coffee service is knowledgeable and skilful, and there is a cabinet of exceptional pastries that always fill a gap. In a city doing incredibly well in the sandwich department right now, Newday stands out as one of the best. Fluffy, deep focaccia is filled generously with classic fillings done better than anyone strictly needs. It is such an important space where people from all different worlds are greeted like friends and sit side by side on the large communal tables outside watching it all go past. Morteza Kebab and Bakery Walk past Morteza in the early afternoon and you will see piles of fresh, warm flatbreads, the likes of which you have never seen before. There will be bowls of dough billowing onto the table and a whole family working to make some of the most impressive breads anywhere in the city. You can either buy them filled with meats and falafels cooked to order, laced with homemade pickles and hot sauce, or buy the breads alone for only $1.50 to take home and make a dinner around. Indian Sweets & Snacks I am not sure if there is another restaurant anywhere in the city that is quite like Indian Sweets & Snacks. I don't mean that in a hyperbolic, over-the-top kind of way. Rather, it is a restaurant that acknowledges the style of Indian restaurant New Zealanders have become used to, but then layers over the top a menu of traditional chaat and regional specialties you never otherwise get to see. The curries are excellent, but a table filled with bhel puri, paneer pakora and chat papri is something out of this world. Make sure to get a couple of packets of the homemade snacks for your next beer at home. Sol Organic Coffeeshop There is something so unexpected and exciting about a hole-in-the-wall-style place. Sol Organic Coffeeshop is one such tiny space; just big enough for the one person working behind the counter and two benches outside on the street to relax on. With an unrelenting focus on organic foods, it wears its heart on its sleeve and serves a range of delicious homemade treats alongside exceptional coffees. Middle Eastern Market I will often go to the Middle Eastern Market when I don't need anything and I am not hungry. The lack of urgency, purpose and hunger means I have real time to browse the shelves and make some plans. It could be that whole section dedicated to rose, cardamom and other waters for a special dessert soon. Maybe I'll finally take home that kilo can of roasted aubergines or the punnet of dried figs, the medjool dates or even the half-size shisha pipe. Wellington Halal Meat Not just a butcher, but a mini supermarket stacked high with imported goods to make dinners at home that little bit more legitimate. There is an entire aisle dedicated to spice blends and masalas, each more specific and interesting than the last. There are freezers full of difficult-to-find vegetables and about 20 varieties of pre-made parathas. Yes please. Black Coffee Black Coffee looks all intimidating and dark on the outside, but it is so warm and welcoming on the inside, just like all of my goth friends. Opened in 2014, this place is a real dark horse with truly world class coffee and monthly art exhibitions of both local and international artists. It is also the only place I know of in the city that does steamer-wand eggs. They take two eggs and use the steam normally reserved for milk to create something light and fluffy, all on two bits of toasted sourdough. Margot and Next Door There is no such thing as a perfect restaurant, but Tom Adams and Juno Miers at Margot are doing a pretty good job at proving that idea wrong. Seasonal small plates come out of the tiny kitchen that will often confound your understanding of what food can be. The 18-seater bar next door, appropriately named Next Door, is a treasure trove of interesting spirits, beers, wines and cocktails you are not going to find anywhere else. Good Boy Sammies Part sandwich shop, part satirical Instagram account. 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