
The surprise UK destination rapidly becoming a golf holiday hotspot
'It's a good putt,' PGA pro Charlotte Reid tells me. 'You just need to hit it like a pendulum.'
Charlotte is frequently dishing out advice here at Royal Portrush Golf Club – home to The Open for the third time this summer. Around 278,000 people will be heading to Northern Ireland's prestigious location for the 153rd championship. It's one of the most sought-after golf courses in the world, and costs visitors like me £385 to play a round.
It's one of the reasons some seriously fancy hotels are opening up in and around Portrush – a Northern Irish seaside town full of heart.
On the fourth fairway, the region's only five-star resort opened in March. Dunluce Lodge's 35 suites are decked out in earthy shades, creating a calming yet traditional space. Little details – like locally-sourcing everything, free beer and snacks in the rooms, and chocolate and a bedtime story – give the hotel a homely feel. And the never-ending sunsets can be soaked up from the terrace, open year-round with an outdoor BBQ and firepit.
In land, the Portrush Adelphi has been bought and renovated by Marine & Lawn – their first hotel which isn't directly on the coast or golf course.
It's a small, boutique affair with 34 rooms, but it's the downstairs decor that really stands out. Grand but cool, shiny green tiles frame the bar lined with six plump leather stools. At the bay window, cloaked in long flowing curtains with miniature gold tassels, four revolving Chesterfield tub chairs are upholstered in plush green velvet, and the walls and ceiling are adorned in green corduroy.
Up the road, Hilton's £11million hotel The Marcus Portrush is currently being refurbished, set to open on July 1, and a big spa hotel has also got the go ahead to open in nearby Portstewart.
Aside from the golf, there is plenty to do in this part of Northern Ireland.
The untamed coast is home to UNESCO World Heritage Site Giant's Causeway. The jaw-dropping geological wonder formed almost 60million years ago from volcanic eruption and slowly-cooling lava. It's a basalt plateau that has to be seen to be believed, the honeycomb-shaped columns jutting upwards in all shapes and sizes.
I wobble my way up the smooth hexagonal hill, tip-toeing over the Wishing Chair and up to the top for the photograph everyone is here for. Going earlier in the day definitely helps avoid crowds – just watch out for jelly legs on the way down.
As I snap unreal photos from Magheracross viewpoint, looking out over Whiterocks Beach with the rocky Skerries in the distance, crashing surf swooshes and swirls like a belligerent shiver of shark fins, green moss dusting their tips. The sea is as blue as the sky and there's barely a soul in sight.
Two minutes away, the ruins of Dunluce Castle – built on sheer headland with Causeway stones between the 15th and 17th century – hides rocks, reefs and sea caves. I stumble over the cobbles, admiring the fat, sturdy walls. It's sprawling and beautiful, much like the coast it overlooks.
Anyone looking to fill up their days with more than just sightseeing can head out on the Causeway Craft Trail – visiting local artisans inspired by their gorgeous surroundings.
The Boat House gallery – complete with a rowing boat strung up to the ceiling and lit with fairy lights – hosts a local craft collective. There's always an artist here and an array of affordable items to buy. Emer Dixon, who specialises in Irish heritage silver jewellery, plucks a box from her glass storage cabinet – it's a necklace she's just finished called Messy Heart, 'because everyone's heart is a wee bit messy', she says.
At Atlantic Craft, I meet Louise McLean, who teaches us how to weave willow and somehow, magically create decorative swallows.
Louise has been basket weaving for 25 years, has met the King, had pieces bought by celebrities and makes props for big-budget film and TV shows.
'It's the oldest crafting skill in the world,' she says. 'You have to weave using both hands and, because it uses both sides of the brain, it's really therapeutic.'
My favourite thing to do in Portrush, however, is the Spirit of the Bann foodie tour.
We meet by LIR – undoubtedly the best restaurant in the area – ran by Stevie McCarry (who made the Great British Menu final this year) and his wife Rebekah, who's responsible for the epic pink walls, glitterballs, Tiffany lampshades and David Shrigley artwork. The whole space looks out onto the riverbank.
I grab our skipper Ian McKnight's hand and haul myself onto the shiny burgundy M.V. Kingfisher. 'It's the love of my life,' Ian says of his lockdown project.
We take our seats beneath the colourful bunting and miniature festoon lights as Simon Hogg from Dunluce Distillery pours us a large shot of La Riva Nata. His Great Taste award-winner is made with the peel of Sorrento lemons and is the first limoncello born in Ireland.
It's 11.30am and Ian merrily toots his horn at other boat owners. Tall reeds line the riverbank, spines perfectly upright soaking up the rare sunshine on Northern Ireland's longest river. We learn all about the area of outstanding natural beauty, the salt marsh and reef beds providing a home to dragonflies, native bluebells and rare orchids.
Simon serves up a Shore Born gin, made with juniper, lavender and cardamom, as the estuary starts to open out.
Native cormorants sit on the jetty, wings outstretched, drying off in the sunshine, while others flap close to the sea, seeking out supper. A family of three stand on a stretch of beach they have all to themselves, as we look out to Mussenden Temple – one of the most photographed places in Ireland – and the hills of county Donegal.
The river becomes a little more undulating, the sun dancing on the ripples, twinkling like diamonds, as we chug our way into the Atlantic.
We stop for lunch and a cheeky cocktail, all served on locally-made slate and wooden platters. Simon shakes up a round of Twilight Shores – gin, blueberry purée, lavender syrup, and mint from his garden – which pairs perfectly with the cheese and charcuterie.
The condiments are phenomenal: Distillers Pickle Sauce – a concoction perfected during lockdown by chef Gary Stewart; a rhubarb chutney made by Amanda Hanna – a farmer's wife whose farmshop business Jam At The Doorstep has exploded; Irish Black Butter, which is not actually butter, but a delicious sauce made with Armagh Bramley apples; and Dart Mountain Craft Drizzle made with Armagh dry cider, which I pour over an oat biscuit topped with a hunk of cheese and walnuts.
Simon chats about his creations modestly, a squashed cap wonkily placed his head, and we finish the trip with an Irish coffee made with his coffee liqueur.
I may be full of gin and cheese, but romantic plans of upping sticks and moving to Portrush feel like a genuine possibility. The people are friendly, the food and drink is delicious, and the surroundings are utterly beautiful.
I'm not the greatest golfer, but this part of Northern Ireland has much more to offer than those 18 holes, no matter how fancy they are.
How to plan your trip
Rooms at Dunluce Lodge (dunlucelodge.com) start from £299, with breakfast. Rooms at Portrush Adelphi (marineandlawn.com/portrushadelphi/) start from £245, including full Irish breakfast.
The Spirit Of The Bann Gin Tasting Tour is run by Causeway Coast Foodie Tours and White River Charters, costing £79.50. A half-day willow weaving workshop with Atlantic Craft costs £45. Giant's Causeway is free, but a visitor experience ticket, which includes parking and tours costs £15.
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Search nightlife by type: Best traditional pubs Crown Liquor Saloon The poster child for Northern Irish pubs, the Crown Liquor Saloon is one of those rarities that's enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. Its elaborate Victorian exterior (preserved by the National Trust, no less) is matched by a darkly cosy space inside, with carved mahogany partitions, stained glass and gunmetal plates where patrons would strike matches. Nowadays, punters make do with pints of Cornish pale ale or a snifter of Bushmills whiskey. Blake's of the Hollow A traditional boozer, The Hollow feels like it hasn't changed a jot since it opened its doors in 1887. The front bar, with its tiled floors, marble bar top and lamppost style light fixtures, is perpetually cosy, and is at its best on a quiet afternoon, when you can sit with a pint and the paper. If you prefer something a little less low-key, there's live traditional music every Friday night. The Duke of York It may be one of the most popular pubs in Belfast, but walking down the cobbled alley to its entrance always feels special. That alleyway, with dozens of flower-filled hanging baskets and vintage Guinness signs, is cracking on a sunny day, but the interior is the epitome of cosiness, with a brick bar, low ceilings and weathered floor tiles. Nab a seat by the vintage printing press, to see if you can spot the dirty words hidden in the lettering. Sunflower Though the Sunflower name on the door is relatively new, this spot has been the home to a pub for over 100 years. The entrance is distinctive, with a bright green cage over the door (leftover from The Troubles) and the sign outside is one of the most photographed in Belfast: 'No topless sunbathing. Ulster has suffered enough'. There aren't any bells and whistles inside, but an excellent selection of craft beers like Yardsman stout and Kinnegar ales, and there's a beer garden, too. Best for live music Peadar O'Donnell's A minimalist's nightmare, this pub has paraphernalia hanging from every inch of space, from antique sewing machines to a proliferation of flags. As such, it feels like a quintessential Irish pub, particularly in the evening, with traditional musicians filling the room with song. Get a low table in the corner, order a well-poured pint of Guinness, and listen to the masters at work. House of McDonnell Owned by the same family for almost 300 years, this listed building is where you'll find some of the best traditional music in the country, with a session every Friday night, and other gigs throughout the week. It's on the Ballycastle Trad Music Trail, and it's even been name checked in some traditional Irish songs and poems. There's a charming little outdoor area, with weathered brick walls and wooden seats, and it's open until 1am. Best for chic cocktails The Cocktail Bar at The Merchant If you'd rather drink a negroni in style than step over a sticky, beer-stained floor, The Cocktail Bar in The Merchant Hotel is a great choice. This relatively small bar has a sophisticated, old-world sense of style, with plenty of dark wood, burgundy velvet armchairs and an antique fireplace. More importantly, the cocktails are impeccable, and you're served a little 'browsing drink' made with Jawbox gin, while you peruse the menu. Rattlebag Don't be put off by the fact that this cocktail bar is inside a hotel – this intimate spot has built up some serious kudos since it opened, with a menu that changes with the seasons and a series of pop-up collaborations with hip wine bars and musical folks. Expect to see quirky ingredients shaken up with classics, like pine distillate in a martini or cumin tincture in a gimlet. Best for cosy vibes The 1614 Bar Part of the historic, thatched Old Inn, this pub feels like a traditional carriage house, with low ceilings, thick wooden beams and roaring fires. It can get busy in the evening, when there's live sport on or a local band playing, but it's an ideal spot for a quiet Irish coffee if you've been out walking in the Crawfordsburn Country Park. They also serve food at lunchtime, with pub food like smoked haddock or fish and chips. Daft Eddy's Technically, this is more a seafood restaurant than a standalone pub, but the bar is lovely and cosy (and if it's sunny, the outdoor tables right on the water are perfect). Plus, if you're coming from Portaferry, you can take a 10-minute ferry journey to save you the drive, which adds to the novelty factor. Area: Strangford Lough Website: Price: £ How we choose Every bar, venue or experience in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from casual pubs to exquisite cocktail bars – to best suit every type of traveller – and consider the service, drinks, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Nicola Brady I'm originally from Sussex, and I went on holiday to Ireland 16 years ago and never came back. While I'm now based in Dublin, I spent a decade living on the Northern Irish border and still visit regularly.