How Willy Chavarria Is Redefining American Menswear Through Latinx Heritage

Yahoo

21-05-2025

Craig Barritt/ Slaven Vlasic for The New School
When Willy Chavarria's debut collection with adidas Originals was revealed earlier this month, fans were elated. In addition to having adoration for the designer who stands up for LGBTQIA+, immigrant, and human rights, his collaboration with the international sporting brand would elevate his storytelling to the larger market. Chavarria, a proud Mexican-American, infuses his cultural identity into all of his work and this latest project was a direct reflection of that connection.
Previewed pieces from Willy Chavarría x Adidas Spring/Summer 25' had his signature black and red color palette with adidas' classic 3-striped sides. The collection also brings back to life the archival adidas Jabbar sneaker, created for Kareem Abdul Jabbar, one of the most celebrated basketball players of all time.
The collection appeals to streetwear lovers but also shows Chavarria's extensive knowledge of Chicano history and visibility in fashion. The same could be said for when he showed up the 2025 Met Gala, themed after Black dandies. Maluma and Chavarria came to the event together wearing custom suits from Chavarria with shoes from Portuguese designer Carlos Santos. Chavarria, whose father is Mexican, referenced the Pachuco style of the 1930s for the vibrant suits. Pachucos and Pachucas were a subset of Mexican Americans who, in an attempt to defy xenophobic attacks on their community, wore their own versions of Zoot suits.
'The Pachuco, as we know, is the quintessential dandy from the 30s and 40s representing Latinos and Black (people) who dressed as a form of resistance to the beauty,' Chavarría told WWD, "I hope to encapsulate that.'
Beyond the Met, Chavarria is a genius when it comes to cultural symbolism. His Chicano heritage shows up in his prints, silhouettes, casting, and runway music. He's shifting the conversations around luxury fashion inclusion in every garment he makes. He's intentional about the artists he works with like Kendrick Lamar, YG, Tokischa, and Becky G. And he's outwardly promoting credit being given where its due.
Last night, the designer was honored at the 76th Annual Parsons Benefit. Chavarria accepted his award from Executive Deputy Director of the ACLU, AJ Hikes, who made a moving speech on the importance of diversity and inclusion. But before he took to the stage, he shared what he wished more people knew about his Chicano history.
'It really started [with] the Pachuco suit in the thirties and forties, which was, as we know, outlawed; Brown people could not wear the suit,' Chavarria says. 'But that evolved into a baggy look, which went from Pachuco into more modern age Cholo, which were gang related. And the gang relations were actually a way to claim territory that had been robbed. And unfortunately, it turned into drugs and violence, but that's the way the world built us."
Adding, 'That influence in fashion, baggy clothes, has stayed around. It went from the Mexican influence to the skate culture, which immediately took that and profited off it. And we got all those brands that went to town with the baggy [clothing]. And now we see baggy everywhere. We see major luxury brands claiming it.'
Every so often, the fashion industry gets a disruptor who challenges the status quo and creates a seat at the table for those left out. Chavarria's work is not only inspiring, it's paving a path for designers to be authentic about who they are.
Originally Appeared on Teen Vogue