This new Wine Country restaurant makes all its own pasta. This is the one to order
Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious.
Creste di gallo, a short-cut pasta, is so named because of its resemblance to a cockscomb, but the version at Stella reminds me more of octopus tentacles entwined under a shower of cheese and parsley. The new Kenwood restaurant from the team behind the Glen Ellen Star makes all its pastas in house, and the creste di gallo ($27) dish is a standout. It embraces the flavor profile of a chicken liver crostino, the sweetness of vidalia onions and aged balsamic vinegar playing off the earthiness of a brothy chicken liver ragu. I'm sure other cuts of pasta would have worked equally well, but I appreciate the playfulness of serving a rooster's comb alongside a chicken's liver.
Like everyone else who goes into an office, I'm constantly on the hunt for good lunch options within walking distance of the Chronicle's building on Fifth and Mission. I thought I had exhausted them all, but I recently came across The Roll, a Japanese restaurant that specializes in Edomae-style sushi that opened last year. Its signature roll ($15) was well seasoned and generous with the fish, but what I'll return for is the stuffed spins on inari sushi, which typically feature rice tucked inside pockets of fried tofu. Each one resembles a sweet little boat. The Roll offers three for $17 or five for $26, including a side of seaweed salad, and each piece is big enough to split between two people, if somewhat difficult to cut in half. I was tickled to see, in addition to more usual topping suspects like dry-aged tuna ($6) and salmon with yuzu kosho ($6), less conventional options like corn cheese ($5) and yakiniku beef topped with a quail egg ($5).
Gougères are simply too small. I could eat a dozen of those darling cheesy puffs, 70% air and barely larger than a ping pong ball. Tartine apparently agrees, because its gougère is no dainty passed hors d'oeuvre — it's massive, more like a concha or bialy in size. A burnished, Gruyere-topped crust gives way to a beautifully rich and eggy interior. Aside from the brobdingnagian proportions, what sets Tartine's gougère apart is the assertive presence of black pepper. Cacio e pepe fans, this one's for you.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Buzz Feed
10 hours ago
- Buzz Feed
Indian Roots, Foreign Labels: Without A Single Credit Line. And Crazy Profits
1. Dior Controversy: Used Indian embroidery, mirror work, and Mughal motifs in several collections without crediting artisans The 2023 Mumbai show featured Indian craftsmanship, but the press focus was entirely on Dior's global prestige, with little to no recognition of the local artisans behind the work. 2. Prada Controversy: Used brocade, sari-like draping, bindis, and Indian footwear silhouettes without citing origins The 2018 collection featured Banarasi-style jackets marketed as "futuristic brocade".And now in 2025, it has shamelessly gone ahead to replicate India's heritage "Kolhapuri Chappals" which have been handcrafted for years in Maharashtra and Karnataka, simply rebranding them as "leather sandals". After ample backlash from social media, they've finally admitted that they were "inspired" by Indian heritage. 3. Gucci Controversy: Frequently used turbans, paisleys, and embroidery styles with zero mention of their Indian heritage Example: 2018 runway featured a Sikh-style turban, sparking backlash and being called 'culturally insensitive.' 4. Isabel Marant Controversy: Used mirror work, traditional Banjara tribal embroidery, and called it 'boho chic' The designs of 2016 mirrored styles from Gujarat and Rajasthan without collaboration or attribution whatsoever. 5. Jean Paul Gaultier's 'Princes et Maharajas' featured turbaned looks, ornate jewelled crowns, embroidered bandh-gala jackets, lehenga-style skirts, jodhpuris, maang‑tikkas, and bindis directly evoking Indian royal and bridal aesthetics The Fall 2007 Couture segment was framed as a spectacle of exotic 'Maharajas,' presented via a generic Western lens of aristocratic drama, not as a respectful homage or collaboration with Indian artisans. 6. Tory Burch Controversy: The items manufactured in India and 'inspired' by Indian fashion lacked any cultural context, such as the spiritual symbolism or heritage Released multiple 'mirror-studded' pieces, maxi dresses, skirts, and tops, adorned with the traditional sheesha (mirror-work) embroidery that originates from Indian regions like Gujarat and argue calling it merely 'inspired' and omitting artisan recognition turns a sacred cultural tradition into a superficial trend, and that the high retail price (over $400) further disconnects the craft from its indigenous roots. Why It's Problematic
Buzz Feed
11 hours ago
- Buzz Feed
42 A++ Products To Turn You Into A Summer Person
A mesh bag you can use to carry anything wet or sandy at the end of your beach day — the sand will just fall out of the bottom as you walk! As a bonus, it folds up nice and small, making it great for getaways. DEET-free mosquito-repelling bracelets infused with essential oils like citronella to help make sure you don't smell like Thanksgiving dinner to those predatory bloodsuckers. Self-proclaimed mosquito magnets say these really work! Twister, splash pad edition. As if the game wasn't challenging enough, the hose water makes everything extra slippery and chaotic. Don't worry, you'll still be able to cool down, even if you're tied into a pretzel with someone's elbow in your face. Washable bra liners to absorb under-boob sweat before it has a chance to bleed through your shirt. Reviewers note that it does the impossible and actually makes wearing a wire bra more tolerable! A sand-removal bag filled with talc-free, reef-safe powder designed to absorb the moisture from sticky wet sand, leaving behind, well, dry sand, which is famously much easier to wipe off your body. A set of limited edition Band-Aids with cute, summery floral designs because who said a papercut can't be a fashion statement? A pack of waterproof playing cards capable of withstanding whatever environmental hazards you expose them to, whether it's an unexpected spring rain, a splash from the pool, or a dirty camping ground. No mushy cards this summer! A set of stackable starfish-shaped sand cup holders that are super cute *AND* helpful when you want to enjoy a bevvy without dealing with sand on the bottom of the cup. Use these for refreshments, your phone, keys, or anything else that needs a home. A roll of aloe wrap you can cut into the perfect shape to best cover your sunburnt body. The hydro-gel wrap is infused with aloe vera, green tea, and vitamin E to help soothe and moisturize skin and prevent excessive peeling. Just slap these forbidden Fruit Rollups on your red skin and marinate for 20-40 minutes for best results. Or Burt's Bees sunburn soother crafted with aloe and coconut oil to hydrate skin and turn back time to before you stayed out in the sun a little too long. It's nongreasy and absorbs quickly, so you can go from "AHHH" to ahhhh. A Slammo game set so you and three competitive pals can duke it out on the beach. Warning: This may harsh the vibes when you go into overtime. Black Girl Sunscreen's Make It Pop Sungloss with SPF 50 to moisturize and give your pout a summery pop. Wear it alone or over your favorite lipstick — either way, your lips will be protected. Have you ever seen sunburnt lips? You do NOT want that. Flyball, a lightweight (only 5 pounds!) game that essentially lets you play skeeball anywhere — even the beach. Players can take turns trying to launch their balls off the ramp and into one of the three rings. A Japanese hori hori gardening knife sure to become the MVP of your gardening toolbox. The lightweight tool has a serrated side and straight edge, so you can dig, weed, slice roots, cut sod, and break up perennials. Deep-rooted dandelions and other summer weeds will see themselves out. Color-changing inflatable pool balls to make night swims feel extra magical. They have solar-powered LEDs that work for up to eight hours after charging. A heat-activated anti-frizz treatment sure to be a total game changer for people who straighten or blow dry their hair straight only for it to go *poof* when they step outside. This humidity-fighting formula "waterproofs" your hair to help protect it from 'do-ruining weather. Or a deep-conditioning hair mask promising smoother, shinier, and stronger hair, even if you're fighting against bleached, dry, or damaged locks. It can even handle Florida levels of humidity! Reusable Nippies nipple covers that'll come in clutch when you want to wear a backless dress or bodysuit, but don't want your nipples to be part of the look. According to reviewers, these pasties hang on, even in hot, sweaty situations. L'Oréal Paris BB Cream, a green-tinted formula that combats redness through the power of color theory. It doesn't stop there — it also works to even complexion, hydrate with vitamin E, and set the perfect stage for you to apply your makeup on. Turns out you don't have to drop $50+ on Dr Jart+'s Cicapair Color Correcting Cream! An ultra-affordable E.l.f. color corrector that comes in a ton of shades to help counteract different types of discoloration, like redness and dark spots. Mix and match to create the perfect foundation for the rest of your makeup routine. A 156-gallon inflatable pool big enough for both kids and adults to enjoy some outdoor fun. As you can see, there's enough room for an inner tube AND there's a cup holder, so this may be your go-to hangout spot all summer long. A flexible, adjustable sprayer that recreates the unreal relief and joy of walking under a mister at a theme park. Now, you can experience the cooling delight from the comfort of your own home with no lines or overpriced concessions in sight. Lottabody Wrap Me Curl Mousse, a whipped-cream-like delight that defines curls, moisturizes with shea and coconut oil, and tackles frizz. The foam makes it super easy to distribute throughout your hair, and the heavenly scent will make you feel like you're on a tropical vacation. 44,000 customers have given this budget-friendly find a thumbs-up! A rechargeable 3-in-1 hand fan that not only cools you down but also offers a flashlight and power bank. Consider this multitasker your first line of defense against the endless cruelties the summer sun hurls at you. A cabana-style umbrella offering plenty of shade for your next beach trip. It comes with cloth corners you fill with sand to weigh down the umbrella, so you don't have to worry about it blowing away in the wind. Beach trips are supposed to be stress free, after all. Or a Shibumi wind-blown sun blocker that sails with as little as a 3-mph breeze, providing much-needed shade for up to six people. Since it's designed to float through the air, it's flexible and won't blow away or fall over. A Sun Bum hair lightener made with pineapple and lemon to lighten up blonde to medium brown hair with the power of the sun. Just spritz on this banana-scented spray and let the sun help you achieve a fresh, summery look. A packable floppy hat that'll keep your face shaded (with UPF 50!), yes, but more importantly, it will make you feel posh and dramatic while walking on the boardwalk and looking out at the ocean. A baby beach tent with a built-in pool so you can keep your little one shaded and bring the ocean to them. Now your baby can splash to their heart's content, and you can stay shaded and cool under your own umbrella. An adjustable, solar-powered lighted umbrella that provides protection from the dreaded sun during the day and much-needed illumination at night. A bottle of Coppertone shimmering sunscreen offering just a subtle sprinkle of glitter, meaning people might briefly mistake you for a vampire. Plus, the SPF 50 will ensure you just sparkle like a Twilight vampire instead of burn like a True Blood one. A claw clip pack in fun nautical shapes that are SCREAMING to be brought on your next beach trip. Picture these in your hair with a cute swimsuit and flowing cover-up. What are you, a gorgeous sea nymph??? A waterproof Essence Lash Princess lengthening mascara that 51,500+ reviewers confirm is lightweight, won't transfer, doesn't smudge, and lasts all day — even if someone pushes you in the pool. Why Essence only charges $5 for such an S-tier mascara is beyond me, but we're all grateful. A Revlon volcanic face roller way easier to use than those disposable blotting pads. You just roll the volcanic stone over any oily or sweaty areas on your face and then pop it in your bag for later. It doesn't even mess with your makeup! Tomato seed packets with tarot card designs — wait, I'm getting something... YES, I see a beautiful caprese salad in your future. A portable 120-inch screen you can pair with a mini Bluetooth projector to bring the theater experience to your backyard. Even SpongeBob will feel cinematic on the big screen, and outdoor movie nights are a surefire way to make friends with your neighbors. A dermatologist-recommended tinted sunscreen with SPF 41 so you can take on the day without fear of burning your delicate face to a crisp. (So long as you reapply!) It's fragrance free, lightweight, perfect for people with sensitive skin, and boasts 11,400+ 5-star ratings. Or a bottle of Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen, a classic option with almost 14,000 5-star ratings thanks to its uncannily sheer appearance. This sweat-resistant formula has SPF 40 or 50 and glides onto your skin like a gel. It's super lightweight *and* can be used as a makeup primer. A bunch of water balloons that all inflate at once to take the prep time out of impromptu water fights. Just screw the connector onto your hose, fill, and watch your ready-to-throw balloons fall off the vine. A West Elm towel featuring one of four adorable summer-themed locales: the pool, park, tennis court, or beach. Grab the whole set and be prepared for people to come up to you and demand to know where you got them. Get the pool, picnic, tennis, and beach towels from West Elm for $29.50 each. An acrylic grid box for your tiniest treasures. The clear design ensures that your discoveries can be properly viewed, like a miniature museum. And if you fill it with sea glass, it'll create a stained-glass effect when you hold it up to the light! Time to hit the beach. 👀 A pair of prescription sunglasses from the Framery so you can actually see, regardless of sun glare or your 20/80 vision. The FDA said we're not allowed to swim with contact lenses on, so consider these a helpful solution for beach day.
Hamilton Spectator
14 hours ago
- Hamilton Spectator
Dandyism, decadence and a taste of rebellion at Junya Watanabe's vision of Paris
PARIS (AP) — A new kind of dandy took over Junya Watanabe's runway on Friday — not the traditional gentleman, but a sharp-dressed rebel with a streak of punk at Paris Fashion Week. Watanabe, the pioneering Japanese designer known for mixing classic tailoring with a wild, creative edge, unveiled a lineup of bold, offbeat looks at the Lycée Carnot. The show was sharp but rebellious, rich in history but full of energy. It wasn't about looking back. It was an explosion of new ideas. Watanabe has built his reputation by smashing the line between elegance and rebellion. This season, he didn't just mix old and new, he turned history into a weapon. His spring men's collection borrowed from the past — rich brocades, jacquards and a hint of Rococo flair — but reimagined them with a bold, punk attitude. Jackets worthy of Venetian nobility were paired with rugged workwear and raw denim, creating looks that felt both grand and streetwise. The music followed the same energy, starting with a traditional piano piece breaking down into a thumping city beat. Classic style was pulled apart and rebuilt right on the runway. Some outfits showed off sharp, careful tailoring, but the order quickly fell away — seams went crooked, sashes trailed loose, wild patterns took over. Even the ties broke free, knotted multiple times in ways that broke from tradition. Despite the wild mix of styles, the show was more than just patchwork. Watanabe was making a statement about taste itself — a constant tug-of-war between old ideas and breaking the rules. Familiar touches — a monk's robe, the rooftops of Florence — were turned into clever fashion puzzles. Throughout the collection, Watanabe's eye for detail and contradiction remained. He's known for boldly mixing sharp tailoring with street style, blending Japanese tradition with punk energy. This season, he sharpened that approach into clothes that were both smart and full of electricity, pieces that challenged the idea of what it means to dress well. By the end, the dandy wasn't just a gentleman —he was sharper, braver, both thinker and rebel.
