Warmer weather, cooler wines

Winnipeg Free Press

03-05-2025

Opinion
With the mercury climbing in earnest this weekend, it's as good a time as ever to shift gears from heartier, more robust wines to warm-weather sippers — which doesn't necessarily mean ditching red wines altogether.
Recent trends have seen a growing number of wineries producing lighter, fruit-driven and lower-tannin reds that are often best served at least slightly chilled.
Toss the following four reds (and one orange wine) in the fridge or some ice for 15 minutes and enjoy, in even the warmest temperatures.
Canadian wine of the week
Pelee Island 2021 Empress (South Islands, Ont. — $27.79, Liquor Marts and beyond)
This orange wine is made from Gewürztraminer grapes macerated with the skins and seeds for 28 days, giving the wine its pinkish-gold hue. Aromatically, it delivers lovely bread dough and yeast notes, along with apricot, lychee, honeycomb and saline notes that are compelling.
It's a mainly dry, chalky and light-plus bodied wine, with spice, tangerine, lychee and red apple skin flavours, modest tannins and acidity and, at 12 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish. Any barrel aging on this skin-fermented white was likely in larger, older vessels that are neutral in flavour. 4/5
Gerard Bertrand 2023 Cote de Roses red (Pays D'Oc, France — around $25, Calabria Market)
Bright strawberry candy in colour, this southern French red's front label reads 'frais – léger – fruité' (fresh, light, fruity), and it delivers.
Made from Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault grapes, it brings plum, violet, blueberry, brambly blackberry and white pepper notes, aromatically. It's a dry, medium-bodied red that offers plum, blueberry, blackberry, violet and spice notes, light tannins and acidity and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish.
Packaged in a tall, attractive bottle, it's more than just a pretty face. Available at Calabria Market; if you can't track it down, Gerard Bertrand also makes the Le Chouchou, another light, chillable red that's at Liquor Marts and, at 11 per cent alcohol, is also a warm-weather crusher. 3.5/5
De Bortoli Wines NV Chill Bill Spritzy Red (Australia — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Made from a blend of Tyrian, Shiraz and other grape varieties sourced from the Riverina and Rutherglen regions, this fizzy red is deep purple in colour, with ripe cherry, Tootsie Roll, red licorice and floral aromas.
It's medium-bodied and medium sweet, with cherry candy and red licorice flavours, as well as chocolate and raisin notes, medium effervescence and acidity, light tannins, at 9.5 per cent alcohol, a short finish. Definitely requires chilling; without it the crunchy, slightly sweet red candied fruit flavours would seem way out of balance. 3/5
Rosewood 2020 Night Moves Gamay (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — around $25, Kenaston Wine Market)
Pale ruby in colour, this Niagara red is made from Gamay, the same grape used in France's Beaujolais region. Aromatically it brings light herbal notes as well as tart cranberry, saskatoon berry, plum and blackberry notes.
On the dry, light-plus bodied palate those tart fruit flavours persist, although on this slightly older vintage it's lost a bit of its verve, with secondary woody notes, light-plus acidity and a medium-length finish. Kenaston Wine Market is blowing this out right now (it's regular $34.99), so grab it while you can then crank up the Bob Seger. 3.5/5
Famille Perrin 2022 Signature red (Côtes du Rhône, France — $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
An organic Grenache-Syrah blend from France's Rhône Valley, this red is black cherry in colour and aromatically offers red licorice, cherry, iron, blackberry and violet notes aromatically.
It's full-bodied and dry, delivering ripe cherry, black pepper, tar, blackberry and red licorice flavours with medium tannins, modest acidity and, at 14.5 per cent alcohol, a moderate finish. Chill this down for 15 minutes and drink now, or hope the tannins mellow out while the fruit stays vibrant over the next couple of years. 4/5
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Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
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