Tuya in Hyderabad brings back the dosa, muntha masala, sarva pindi and more

The Hindu

03-07-2025

'Tuya means pure in Tamil,' says Chef Suresh DC, seated at his newly opened restaurant in Jubilee Hills. 'I didn't want to create yet another place dishing out idli, dosa, upma, biryani, or thalis at a premium. I told myself — I have to do something different.'
Tuya, subtitled The South Retold, seeks to revisit and reframe South Indian cuisine through the lens of nostalgia, travels, and regional favourites — many of them drawn from the villages that shaped Suresh's palate. 'The dishes here are the ones I've loved. I didn't restrict myself to Tamil Nadu, nor to what's typically served in restaurants.'
The space itself reflects a restrained, earthy aesthetic. Soft-hued Indian-themed wall art adds character, while touches of terracotta lend warmth. It is understated, but considered — just like the food.
Our meal began with two striking green starters: Nilgiri Chicken and Mutton Cheekulu. The former owes its colour to green chillies; the latter, to a mint-infused gravy. The Nilgiri Chicken, made with bone-in thigh pieces, offered a subtle chilli warmth and paired beautifully with water — though one could imagine a crisp beer completing the experience, if only the restaurant had a liquor licence. 'It's just too expensive in Hyderabad,' Suresh shrugs.
The Mutton Cheekulu arrived nestled in a pool of its minty, creamy base. Cleanly flavoured and elegantly plated, the dish set the tone for what followed.
Vegetarians have plenty to choose from, too. Telangana's sarva pindi — a chewy rice-flour and peanut pancake — was reimagined with avocado and cream cheese, making for a photogenic and novel bite. The Muntha Masala (white peas ragda, alu bhujia, topped with gongura tempura) was a surprise hit at our table of mostly meat-eaters.
What sets Tuya apart is its control. The flavours are thoughtfully balanced. Spices are used to complement, not dominate. Take the raw jackfruit gassi served taco-style in mini ragi rotis. The jackfruit remains centre stage, not lost in seasoning or overpowering curry paste. Most dishes arrive without the usual array of condiments, and frankly, none are missed.
Small plates dominate the format here, making it easy to try more. Each serves one comfortably. The green chilli chicken with buttered bread was a standout; there is something deeply satisfying about mopping up spicy curries with soft, buttery bread. The butter garlic prawns, however, underwhelmed. They felt rushed, lacking in flavour and a little too soft in texture.
One unexpected winner was the green kadla curry with idiyappam. Chickpeas in a rich coconut-laced gravy — mildly spiced and deeply comforting. It is the kind of dish that makes you rethink your favourites.
Rice lovers will find plenty to enjoy. The mutton in Kundapur masala, served with benne dosa, was a welcome break from the predominantly green gravies — fiery, red and full-bodied.
Desserts are generous, though not all hit the mark. The Rajahmundry frozen milkshake and coconut jasmine dessert were both overwhelmingly sweet. Too many sugary elements clashing on the palate.
Still, Tuya is a refreshing new entrant to Hyderabad's dining scene — confident in its restraint, rich in regional storytelling, and quietly rewriting the rules of what South Indian food can be.
Small plates (which serves one) are priced at ₹249 onwards.