Capt M S Kohli, who led India's first successful Everest expedition, dies
successful Everest expedition in 1965, died on Monday in New Delhi, family sources said.
Kohli was 93 and breathed his last peacefully on June 23.
"With profound sorrow, we inform you of the peaceful passing of Capt. M S Kohli," a message said on behalf of Kohli's family.
The cremation would take place at the Green Park crematorium Ground, New Delhi on Tuesday, the
message said.
Captain Kohli was an Indian Navy officer and mountaineer, who led the 1965 Indian Everest expedition that saw nine men summit Mt. Everest (8849 mt), a world record for 17 years.
Born and raised in Haripur on the banks of the Indus in the Karakoram mountains of the North West Frontier, Kohli witnessed the massacre of over 2,000 people during the partition of India.
Beginning with Saser Kangri in 1956, he participated in 20 major Himalayan expeditions, including India's first ascent of Nanda Kot and the maiden ascent of Annapurna III. In 1962, he spent three consecutive nights, including two without oxygen, on Everest at 27,650 feet during severe blizzards, joining a select group of climbers.
During his tenure with the Indian Navy, he incorporated adventure training. Over 15 years with the Indo- Tibetan Border Police, he developed the force into a notable mountaineering organisation.
He led seven significant and sensitive missions under the guidance of officers B.N. Mullick and R.N. Kao and worked with climbers and scientists from the US to install nuclear-powered listening devices on Indian Himalayan peaks to monitor Chinese missile capabilities. UNI PC SSP
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