Hello, Goodbye: Maria Grazia Chiuri's Next Chapter
The heavens opened throughout the show, which has become something of a feature of Chiuri's presentations when they're exposed to the elements. A cockeyed optimist might construe that as nature's equivalent of Tom Ford's emotion-drenched send-off at Yves Saint Laurent — still the benchmark for the long fashion goodbye — but, deluge aside, the cheers felt like a necessary acknowledgement of Chiuri's substantial near-decade achievement at Dior. As the only woman to carry Christian's mantle, she leaves her thumbprint on the brand, financially and creatively. Dior Cruise 2026. (Spotlight)
Mind you, when to go gently into that good night may well have ultimately been her choice. All week, Chiuri appeared upbeat and relaxed, especially as she previewed a next act for journalists. (I'm assuming it's not the next act, but it does involve a theatre, so the analogy seems appropriate). She was home, in Rome, the happy place of her birth where she would retreat from Paris every weekend, and where she has been realizing a rather wonderful personal project for the past few years.
Her renovation of the Teatro della Cometa, a bijou 233-seater in downtown Rome, is, in a way, an evolution of the commitment she always had at Dior to celebrating female creativity, from that very first show when a T-shirt quoted the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay 'We Should All Be Feminists.' For years, she has wrapped her presentations in the work of women who inspired her. This time, it was Anna Laetitia ('Mimi') Pecci-Blunt, the cultish art patron who was responsible for the construction of the Teatro in the annex of her family palazzo. Teatro della Cometa. (Laura Sciacovelli)
The inspiration felt particularly personal, perhaps because it was so embedded in Chiuri's own story. The Palazzo Pecci-Blunt had always been a dream house for her. Once she found out about the house's chatelaine, she transferred her obsession to Mimi, a woman whose wealth and privilege (her father was the nephew of Pope Leo XIII) effortlessly eased her passage through — and patronage of — the cultural ferment of the early-mid 20th century.
Mimi's salon in Paris counted Picasso, Cocteau, Dali, Man Ray and Stravinsky among its habitués. When she and her American banker husband Cecil Blumenthal (she made him abbreviate his name to Blunt), acquired their palazzo in Rome in 1929, it also became a hive of artistic activity. Driven into exile by the fascists, the family sat out WWII in New York. On their return, she had the Teatro della Cometa designed (by Tomaso Buzzi) and constructed so that she would have a proper venue for the musical recitals she might once have presented in her home. She was also able to put on plays, performances and dance recitals. 'She was really keen to share her passions with other people,' says Chiuri.
'I think for that time, Mimi was like Peggy Guggenheim,' Chiuri muses. 'She really wanted to create an environment with all these creative people from several disciplines working together. I like the idea she tried to connect all these artists. You see the picture of Mr. Dior in the café with Giacometti. He was a gallerist, she was a gallerist. That's the way I really like to work too, with other artists to make a project, especially in this moment where everybody wants to talk about differences. I like the artists who try to collaborate. I think that's a very important message.' Dior Cruise 2026 Look 6. (Courtesy Dior)
Chiuri translated the message into the collection she showed Tuesday night by getting both her studios — couture and ready-to-wear — to work with Studio Tirelli. Umberto Tirelli founded his workshop in the Sixties to work with the greatest movie directors of his day. From his archive of over 350,000 pieces of clothing, Chiuri picked 12 silhouettes to be worn by actors in the film that her frequent collaborator Matteo Garrone made for the livestream, as well as the performers who paraded ghost-like around the garden of the Villa Albani Torlonia in the lead-up to the show.
She was thinking about the Bal Blanc that Mimi staged in 1930 at her Paris home with Man Ray as co-host. Everyone wore white. Man Ray's photos of 'the party of the season' are preserved at the Centre Pompidou. The tableaux vivants that Chiuri has been staging at the Teatro for the past few days recreate the event. And the dress code on Tuesday was women in white, men in black. If that hints at the essential theatricality of Chiuri's presentation, then my work here is done. The invitation proclaimed Rome as 'Theatrum Mundi,' theatre of the world. (Feel the mycelium fingers reaching out to Teatro della Cometa). Dior Cruise 2026 Look 43. (Courtesy Dior)
It's an obvious question: would Chiuri have liked to live in Mimi's moment? Her answer is an unequivocal yes. 'Now we have too much Zoom, too many pictures. I think it's so important to meet in person, to share ideas. This is exciting.' That's why she was so keen for her studios to work with Tirelli. 'For them, it was an experience that gave them a different perspective.'
Top of Chiuri's moodboard was the cover of a book by Francesco Piccolo, 'La Bella Confusione.' One 'beautiful confusion' was the collection's indistinguishable mix of cruise and couture (the show was officially labeled Cruise 2026, but tended more heavily towards couture, I'd say). The other is Rome itself, hectic, chaotic, enough to spark arguments between Chiuri and her husband Paolo when she defends the city's profound dysfunction. 'Paris is a beautiful city, but I'm Mediterranean and there is no sun in winter. You wake up in the dark and for someone who grew up in Rome, it is not simple not to have sun.' She counters that with praise for the fabulous, vital, cultural diversity of Paris. But still… sunshine. Dior Cruise 2026 Look 68. (Courtesy Dior)
But that professed umbilical connection to sensuality is why Chiuri's collections have always been a bit of a puzzler, because they don't often make that connection. They are pure and restrained and elegant and they embody an eerie kind of almost monastic luxury, but they aren't sunshine. And so it was with what we are acknowledging as her last collection for Dior. It was almost as though she was recreating her own favourite bits, with a strong emphasis on her Valentino era (read into that what you want).
The elongated formality, the sheerness and delicacy of lace dresses with trains dragging through the rain-soaked gravel, the romantic tatters of Miss Havisham crochet… all of this had a costume-y Cinecittà allure. A leather motocross over a crystalled gown, a draped sheath in dull gold charmeuse, a black velvet cutaway jacket that looked moulded to the dress beneath: now these told a more provocative tale. The first time I met Chiuri, she and Pierpaolo Piccioli had just been to a Depeche Mode concert in Rome. That's the kind of conversation you (or at least I) cling to in fashion, where you share something real. Dior Cruise 2026 Look 38. (Courtesy Dior)
And it fits with Chiuri's own notion of beautiful confusion: a relationship between fashion and theatre and film and music where the boundaries dissolve. 'You adapt the technique and the imagination when you work with different performers,' she says. 'It's exciting for the atelier because it's a different way to think. What is dance? What is theatre? What is fashion? I like this idea of 'la bella confusione.''
So I'm thinking that points forward for Chiuri in a very positive way. As far as she's concerned, the Teatro della Cometa is a family concern, something she will do with her husband and daughter Rachele. They've saved a little treasure from conversion to a supermarket or disco. 'We didn't want this incredible history to disappear,' Chiuri says. 'There are so many antiquities in Rome, so much that it's difficult for someone to make a stand for something so small.' But it is also a seductively quirky space. What other theatre stage can you think of that has six huge windows opening onto the street? 'A dialogue with the city,' Chiuri calls it. Maria Grazia Chiuri and daughter Rachele Regini at the Teatro della Cometa. (Laura Sciacovelli)
And then there's her commitment to Mimi, whose archive is crying out for reactivation. 'That's what I am, an activator,' Chiuri declares. 'Not because I want to think about my future now — this doesn't interest me — I think it's much more interesting to reactivate something, to recreate. This is really beautiful for me.'
So, after nine years of reactivation at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri is maybe contemplating a brave new world of Mimi-driven cultural activism. Perhaps a gallery, definitely a theatre, which promises a programme of provocative programming helmed by her daughter Rachele. Would she have been friends with Mimi? She answers without hesitation: 'Absolutely.' All the Looks From Dior Cruise 2026 Dior Cruise 2026 look 1. Dior Cruise 2026 look 2. Dior Cruise 2026 look 3. Dior Cruise 2026 look 4. Dior Cruise 2026 look 5. Dior Cruise 2026 look 6. Dior Cruise 2026 look 7. Dior Cruise 2026 look 8. Dior Cruise 2026 look 9. Dior Cruise 2026 look 10. Dior Cruise 2026 look 11. Dior Cruise 2026 look 12. Dior Cruise 2026 look 13. Dior Cruise 2026 look 14. Dior Cruise 2026 look 15. Dior Cruise 2026 look 16. Dior Cruise 2026 look 17. Dior Cruise 2026 look 18. Dior Cruise 2026 look 19. Dior Cruise 2026 look 20. Dior Cruise 2026 look 21. Dior Cruise 2026 look 22. Dior Cruise 2026 look 23. Dior Cruise 2026 look 24. Dior Cruise 2026 look 25. Dior Cruise 2026 look 26. Dior Cruise 2026 look 27. Dior Cruise 2026 look 28. Dior Cruise 2026 look 29. Dior Cruise 2026 look 30. Dior Cruise 2026 look 31. Dior Cruise 2026 look 32. Dior Cruise 2026 look 33. Dior Cruise 2026 look 34. Dior Cruise 2026 look 35. Dior Cruise 2026 look 36. Dior Cruise 2026 look 37. Dior Cruise 2026 look 38. Dior Cruise 2026 look 39. Dior Cruise 2026 look 40. Dior Cruise 2026 look 41. Dior Cruise 2026 look 42. Dior Cruise 2026 look 43. Dior Cruise 2026 look 44. Dior Cruise 2026 look 45. Dior Cruise 2026 look 46. Dior Cruise 2026 look 47. Dior Cruise 2026 look 48. Dior Cruise 2026 look 49. Dior Cruise 2026 look 50. Dior Cruise 2026 look 51.
Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders' documentation guaranteeing BoF's complete editorial independence.
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'It was an absolute pleasure working in the studio with both [composer] Nitin [Sawhney] and Naughty Boy,' James told Daily Mail. 'Music plays a huge part in the film, and I'm thrilled to contribute to this amazing single alongside some incredible artists.' Could this be the start of a new career direction for James? Jeremy Renner Marvel's very own Hawkeye can do much more than throw arrows, he can sing too! In addition to a few singles, Jeremy Renner's first EP The Medicine dropped in March 2020. Hailee Steinfeld At just 14 years old, we knew Hailee Steinfeld was the real deal when she was nominated for an Oscar for her role in True Grit. Since then, Steinfeld's proved she can do much more than acting and that she's an incredible singer too! In addition to some hit singles like 'Let Me Go,' 'Love Myself' and most recently 'Coast,' she also released her EP, Half Written Story, in 2020. Hugh Laurie After learning how talented Hugh Laurie is, you'll be left wondering why House never had a musical episode. Laurie has released two blues albums over the years: Let Them Talk and Didn't It Rain. Robert Pattinson Following his stint in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Robert Pattinson was sure he was going to head into the music business. 'I really thought I was gonna do music at that point,' he shared with GQ in 2022. 'I don't know where I had the, kind of, belief in that because there was absolutely no one saying that there's a music career on the table. But I was doing a lot of gigs, constantly doing open mics all the time. And then…I ran out of money, basically.' Fortunately, Pattinson was cast in the Twilight films, for which he got to show off some of his music talents with two songs on the movie's soundtrack. Jared Leto Jared Leto rose to fame on the '90s teen drama My So-Called Life. But once the series wrapped, he and his brother, Shannon, formed the group Thirty Seconds to Mars. The band has put out albums since the early 2000s, all while Leto's been building his impressive acting career, winning an Oscar for his role in Dallas Buyers Club along the way. One of the band's most famous songs is their 2009 single 'Kings and Queens.' Emmy Rossum Long before she was Fiona Gallagher on Shameless, Emmy Rossum was training at Metropolitan Opera Children's Chorus. Once her acting career took off, Rossum was still able to put her singing skills to use with her role as Christine Daaé in the 2004 film adaptation of The Phantom of the Opera. Three years later, she released her first album, followed by another in 2013. Emily Blunt Oppenheimer's Emily Blunt has captivated us with her work in period pieces, modern romances, and adventure films — but where she really shined the brightest is when she sang in the cinematic adaptation of Stephen Sondheim's Into the Woods as the Baker's Wife and as the titular character of our collective youth, Mary Poppins, in Mary Poppins Returns. Eddie Murphy One of, if not the, most successful comedic actor of our time, Eddie Murphy has a repertoire filled with modern day classics. The man who brought us Coming to America, Beverly Hills Cop (I, II, and III), 48 Hours (I and II), Boomerang, the Shrek trilogy, iconic stand-up specials that set the bar for what comedy could be, and years on SNL, can also sing. He's released five (music) albums starting in 1985 with single 'Party All the Time' which reached #2 on the Billboard Hot 100 charts. It's still very much a non-guilty pleasure. Robert Downey Jr. Oscar-winning Oppenheimer star Robert Downey Jr. released an album of eight original compositions and two covers back in 2004. We're partial to the opening track, 'Man Like Me.' Kristen Bell Kristen Bell is really known for her voice (her acting voice, that is), and for good reason. She voiced the hidden narrator on Gossip Girl, she's acted in TV hits like The Good Place and Veronica Mars, and in films like Forgetting Sarah Marshall…but back to that whole voice thing. She's also the voice of Anna from Frozen and Frozen 2, the mega-popular film series that finally brought her singing chops to light. Nicole Kidman This Australian megastar is such a talent that it's really not all that surprising that she can also sing. I mean, we challenge you to name a film or TV mini-series she's been a part of where you weren't blown away by her performance. Go ahead. We'll wait. In her HBO monster hit The Undoing, she sang the theme song, a haunting cover of The Mama and The Papa's 'Dream A Little Dream of Me.' David Hasselhoff No list of actors who sing would be worth its weight in salt without the inclusion of The Hoff. Yes, he's a legend because of The Young and the Restless, Knight Rider, and Baywatch, but with his 1988 single 'Looking for Freedom' he reached new heights of fame, particularly in Germany, with a song so big he performed it live at the Berlin Wall on New Year's Eve in 1989. Rita Wilson Surely you know Rita Wilson as an actor from films such as Sleepless in Seattle, It's Complicated, and Volunteers, or as a one of the producers of the highest grossing independent film of all time, My Big Fat Greek Wedding. She's also a singer-songwriter who's released four country-tinged albums starting with 2012's covers project AM/FM which includes a lovely version of Glen Campbell's 'Wichita Lineman.' Scarlett Johansson She's won a Tony (in 2010 for her performance in the revival of A View From the Bridge), is a bonafide superhero (thanks to her role as Black Widow in the Marvel Cinematic Universe), and has been appearing in critically acclaimed films since she was 12 years old. But did you know she also has two albums? Yup. Her solo LP Anywhere I Lay My Head (an album of Tom Waits covers) came out in 2008 and the following year she and Pete Yorn released their collaborative collection Break Up which is 100% worth checking out. Zooey Deschanel You probably know Zooey Deschanel from her Globe-nominated performance as Jess in the TV hit New Girl and in films such as 500 Days of Summer, Almost Famous and Failure to Launch. But, in addition to acting, Zooey is one half of indie pop band She & Him (She's the She, M. Ward is Him). They've released six albums in total – three original, one of covers, and two for Christmas (A Very She & Him Christmas and Christmas Party). Zoë Kravitz It was inevitable that Zoë Kravitz would become not just a star but a multi-hyphenate by virtue of her parentage (Lisa Bonet and Lenny Kravitz) but she has proven herself to be a formidable actress with commendable performances on TV in Big Little Lies and High Fidelity and in films like the Divergent series. She's also the frontwoman of R&B electropop duo Lolawolf, named for her younger half siblings (awww), Lola and Wolf, who have released two albums, including 2020's Tenderness. Donald Glover From writing on TV for 30 Rock to starring in Community and Atlanta to films such as Magic Mike XXL and a little-known series called Star Wars where he portrayed a young Lando Calrissien, Donald Glover has proven to be a serious talent. He records under the pseudonym Childish Gambino and has released six albums to date. 'This Is America,' his Grammy Award-winning single and music video, is a poignant critique of gun violence and racism in the U.S. that debuted at number 1 on the Billboard charts. Jada Pinkett Smith She's been acting in TV and film for 30 years (Menace to Society, Set It Off, the Madagascar films) and is most recently known for hosting The Red Table Talk on Facebook Watch with her mom and daughter. But did you know she's also the lead singer in a nu metal band? Yup. Jada's band Wicked Wisdom has been around since 2002 and has toured with Britney Spears and Ozzy Osborne. Know anyone else that can say that? William Shatner To one generation, he will always be Captain Kirk. To another, he's Denny Crane of Boston Legal. And yet to another, he's the Priceline spokesman. He is all of these things, but he is also a man who has released what might be the strangest set of spoken word albums ever, starting in 1968 and continuing to his latest album, Blues, which was released in 2021. Included in his catalog are covers of U2's 'In A Little While' with Lyle Lovett, Robert Johnson's classic 'Sweet Home Chicago' with Brad Paisley, and the unforgettable opening to his 2004 William Shatner Has Been LP which opened with Pulp's 'Common People.' Solve the daily Crossword
