Mother Sippy: Vusi Dalicuba
What do you get when you blend the iconic cultivars of Bordeaux, False Bay breezes and a winemaker with something to prove? Welcome to Vergenoegd Löw, which is enjoying an ongoing revival in the vineyards and cellar.
Since its founding in 1696, Vergenoegd has been a quiet presence along the N2 outside of Stellenbosch, an estate for years best known for its historic Cape Dutch homestead and waddling army of Indian Runner ducks.
In 2015, German entrepreneur and heritage specialist Prof Dr Dr Peter Löw acquired Vergenoegd and set about transforming the 160-hectare estate. Renamed Vergenoegd Löw, the farm underwent a full restoration of its 18th-century Cape Dutch buildings, now a national monument, and the hospitality offering was transformed with the addition of two restaurants by Bertus Basson, and a choice of luxury accommodation. He also restructured the cellar for low-intervention winemaking, and assembled an expert team to replant the vineyards.
With detailed soil analysis, a major replanting project and the arrival of winemaker Vusi Dalicuba, this estate is fast becoming one of the most exciting producers on the coastal fringes of the Stellenbosch Wine Route.
'We have a range of soils on the farm, and we are very flat; only about 12 metres above sea level, which has a big influence on our terroir,' says Dalicuba, who joined the farm in 2021 and now leads winemaking with mentorship from industry heavyweight Abrie Beeslaar.
Vergenoegd Löw's MD, Corius Visser, also sees parallels between Vergenoegd Löw and the French wine region of Bordeaux: 'Of course, we are very much closer to the sea, but if you think of the farm's Eerste River estuary that is marked by periodic flooding, there are similarities with the Garonne River. Ours is also a flat, low altitude terrain with very old soils.'
With around 52 hectares under vine – 70% red, 30% white – the replanting effort, completed in 2022, was no small feat. Hundreds of soil pits were dug to analyse conditions and match the right cultivar to the right parcel of land.
The result is a patchwork of terroir-driven blocks – including limestone-rich soils rare in Stellenbosch – that now support a focused selection of varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.
'When we replanted, we focused on Cabernet and Merlot,' adds Dalicuba. 'These are the oldest varieties planted on the farm. The grapes used to go to KWV, so we wanted to keep with the tradition of what was grown here.'
But that doesn't mean the new wines are playing it safe. From skin contact to new fermentations, Dalicuba is experimenting with style, structure and texture.
'We found that a slightly warmer fermentation works for us, with the right skin contact ratio,' he says. 'We want to show the terroir, to capture what's on the farm inside the bottle so we can show what we are.'
Climate is key to the Vergenoegd signature. Set just four kilometres from False Bay, the site benefits from cooling ocean breezes that slow down ripening and preserve acidity.
'We've started talking about our 'merroir' rather than terroir as it underscores the sea's influence,' says Visser. 'We see our location as lending freshness, restraint and even salinity to our wines.'
'With the wind we get here, the vineyards are planted in line with the south-easter, not against it, otherwise your bunches are going to fall off,' Dalicuba explains. 'That has a big role in the ripening of the grapes, especially for Merlot. Unlike many other farms, we have Merlot with small berries and nice concentration.'
It's this careful attention to the nuances of the estate – the interplay of topography, soil, and wind – that's shaping the style of Vergenoegd's latest releases.
'Our vision is to capture the terroir. Because we are still working with young vines, it's a process of experimentation, and we have to adapt as the vines mature,' Dalicuba adds. 'For now, we aim for a drinkable New World style of wine. We want wines that are enjoyable now and have some ageing potential. So, it must have fruit and structure, but not so big that you can't enjoy a glass today. Nice, soft tannins, round and juicy, but you can also taste the wines that have the potential to age eight or 10 years.'
If there's one white to watch, it's the Chardonnay: a bold yet mineral-driven expression shaped by those limestone soils.
'It's more of a Chablis-style of Chardonnay, with quite a bold mouthfeel. We are the only farm in Stellenbosch that has limestone, so we planted Chardonnay on those soils which produces fantastic wines.'
As the estate settles into this new phase, it's clear that the wines – and Dalicuba – are just getting started, carving out an exciting new vinous identity for this historic Cape estate.
Pair it with a visit: Vergenoegd Löw offers a choice of tastings at the elegant 1773 Homestead Wine Lounge. Choose between classic flights or the uniquely local Indigenous Experience, featuring wine paired with amasi, bokkoms and spekboom.
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