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Charging Ahead: How an E-bike Made My Portugal Vacation Amazing
Instead, our six-person group, along with two guides, would be spending six leisurely days biking through cork and olive groves, doing a touch of hiking, trying our hand at surfing, and kayaking the famous sea caves of the Algarve. We'd be staying at two beyond-luxurious hotels—each with a deluxe spa—and covering between 3½ and 27 miles a day. If that sounds like minimal mileage for a cycling tour, it is: Backroads calls this multisport itinerary a Dolce Tempo, or 'sweet time,' departure. We'd also get a boost in the form of custom-built pedal-assist e-bikes. From Left: The author on her e-bike adventure in Portugal; kayaking the sea caves of the Algarve.
Kathy Roberson; Backroads
I'm something of an overplanner when it comes to travel, so I was glad to leave all the decisions and logistics to the pros. What's more, the trip would be something of a callback to my younger days, when I took an annual bike trip for seven years straight. The desire not to be left behind was good motivation to hit the gym consistently throughout the year.
But my idea of a workout is a low-impact yoga or Pilates class or, more often, pedaling an exercise bike while watching TV. With that kind of fitness routine, I'd always wind up underprepared (and the terrain would always have more hills than I'd thought). I'd find myself trailing behind, legs burning, feeling lonely and discouraged. I'd repeat a favorite saying of my yoga teacher: 'The body wants to move.' Well, it didn't. When, I would ask myself, would that support van be coming along?
The physical stress of these trips was often accompanied by some social awkwardness, too. Most participants would be there with a partner, friend, or family member; I was always on my own. I would push myself to be more outgoing, but I found it hard to insert myself, particularly because I was usually the only person interested in taking it easy. One year, while cycling the Eastern Shore of Maryland—what must be some of the flattest terrain in the U.S.—I was not so much exhausted by the mileage as the monotony of the days. After pedaling for hours, I'd have only the time to shower, wash my sweaty outfit in the sink, and eat dinner before going to bed. My next group trips were out of the saddle: one was camping and kayaking in British Columbia; the other a week of rafting and hiking around Costa Rica.
Still, there's a deep sigh of contentment and the sense of a completely empty mind that I can only find while on a bike. So I took another look at cycling trips, hoping to find a new (and flat) destination in which to pedal. Instead, I was encouraged to learn that e-bikes are commonly offered these days, particularly in Europe and the U.S., usually at no extra charge.
Andy Levine, founder of the tour operator DuVine, says that e-bike demand has steadily grown, and that the technology has revolutionized cycling vacations. 'The fact is that e-bikes act as an equalizer,' Levine tells me. 'They make it easier to tackle climbs, ride longer distances, or simply keep pace with the group—especially if your heart is set on a tour with more advanced terrain.'
On my Portugal trip, the bikes were perhaps too effective: at the close of each day's ride, I would find myself thinking, 'Is that it?' My outfit was never sweaty enough to need washing out. One day, we finished our activities at 3:30 p.m., with dinner 'at your leisure.' Both of our hotels, Praia do Canal Nature Retreat and Quinta da Comporta, were gloriously isolated from civilization. But that meant there was nowhere to go nearby. I hit the steam room to soothe my muscles, but the only thing that hurt was my backside.
It turns out that JOMO isn't for me—though I'm still happy about this e-bike thing. Next year I'll book a more intense itinerary in some hilly place that I can brag about having 'biked across.' (I found that my pedal-assist bike could turn a hill into such an insignificant obstacle that it felt almost immoral.) Though I'm not single, I'll opt for a 'solos' departure, so I'll have an easier time mixing in with the group. And I might even go so far as to bring my own more comfortable bike seat.
ALTITUDE SEEKERS
E-bikes are a welcome boost on this six-day Butterfield & Robinson trip on which travelers ascend to 4,777 feet by way of Col du Pillon, in the Swiss Alps, and visit two cheese capitals: Gruyères and Emmental.
CYCLE SAFARI
Guests of andBeyond in the Phinda Private Game Reserve, in South Africa, can e-bike through the Sand Forest with a guide, spotting interesting birds like the Lebombo wattle.
THE MICHELIN STARS
In 2026, travelers can join Basque chef Mikel Olaizola on a DuVine tour of northern Spain's culinary hot spots, including pintxo bars and restaurants such as Akelaŕe, which has three Michelin stars, in San Sebastián.
WHEELING THROUGH WINE COUNTRY
On a Backroads trip in northern California, cyclists start near San Francisco, ride along the Russian River, and stop at tasting rooms in Napa and Sonoma counties.— Parker Wright
A version of this story first appeared in the July 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline 'Charging Ahead.'

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This is part of Reason's 2025 summer travel issue. Click here to read the rest of the issue. My baby was stolen in a Portuguese airport. The culprit was a granny who worked in the bakery there, crafting pastéis de nata. While I was sorting out the rental car booking, my husband had taken our then-9-month-old son to fetch pastries. Our son quickly disappeared—taken behind the counter by an insistent old lady who wanted to show him around and, presumably, feed him spoonfuls of custard. Who am I to object to local custom? Portuguese culture grants special privileges to children and families, and those privileges really do make a big difference. We've been to Lisbon, surf towns to the west, the Azores, and even Cabo Verde, the African island nation and former colony, where many of the same norms apply. Pregnant women, the elderly, and people traveling with young kids get special lines for airport security and customs, ushered through as fast as possible. Native Portuguese will get offended if they see you in the normal line, instructing you to go to the priority line and sometimes getting the attention of the customs officer to make sure the system is adhered to—the only time Southern Europeans have ever been rule-abiding! Though their Northern European neighbors are strict about taxi cab car seat rules and paranoid about child safety on buses (in Norway they made me use a car seat), the Portuguese are relaxed about it, allowing parents to make whatever choices they deem best. This is helpful for those of us who don't travel with car seats, preferring to use public transit wherever possible. Their playgrounds allow lots of risky play. We availed ourselves of Lisbon's Jardim da Estrela, which had plenty of climbing structures, including one extending more than 15 feet in the air, full of kids as young as 5 jousting for the top spot. Contrast this with the American approach: Our illustrious federal regulators publish the Public Playground Safety Handbook, which discourages playground designers from using free-swinging ropes (which "present a potential strangulation hazard," as they could "fray" or "form a loop") and mandates the steepness of slides. Or worse, the New York approach: padlocking certain playgrounds, such as Hudson River Park's Pier 26 and Madison Square Park's, when it gets chilly out, because God forbid children slip or fall in the event that there's ice or snow. (Better to just stay inside glued to a screen, these policies seem to suggest.) In Lisbon, the public park facilities even had a miniature bathroom for potty-training kids, but you could also freely change a diaper on a park bench. The nearby day cares dressed kids for rain or shine, and they seemed to make outdoor time a habit. The moms did not hover—a refreshing contrast to Manhattan and Brooklyn—and there was a healthy mix of moms and dads handling the kids. (To give credit where due, some Northern Europeans get good marks in these subjects. Playgrounds in Berlin are abundant and, in many cases, designed to maximize kid independence—and nasty weather rarely deters there, since active outdoor time is valued highly.) At home in New York, I keep a list of fancy restaurants that tend to be welcoming toward babies and toddlers (Bonnie's in Williamsburg, Cafe Gitane in Lower Manhattan), precisely because it feels like a rarity: Several restaurants have adopted policies disallowing children (Jean-Georges, Bungalow). In Portugal, it's standard to see families out to dinner, and out quite late. Though the families don't tend to be huge—Portugal has not been immune to the sinking-birthrate issues that have plagued the rest of the developed world—they are rebounding a bit from a 2013 low of 1.21 births per woman. Lots of cultures around the world get components of childrearing right: The American expats I met in Tamarindo, Costa Rica, let their kids roam free-range and almost universally homeschooled, seceding from the dominant parenting culture in America, the rat race, and the anxiety. (In some cases, they've deviated very far from the norm: One mom told me it's totally chill to breastfeed 8-year-olds. But I think that's just a hippie thing, not a Central American custom.) Panamanian parents in coastal towns like Playa Venao seem to let their young kids surf with abandon, unsupervised except by siblings. The aforementioned Germans have free-play areas where adults aren't allowed, such as Berlin's Abenteuerlicher Bauspielplatz Kolle 37, a playground with spots for climbing and hammer-and-nails construction and fire building. When I visited, a crowd of 9-year-olds were tending it with pokers; my toddler, not yet allowed in, seemed already to covet access to the flames. But the Portuguese in particular grasp something I fear American parents miss: You don't have to recede from society once you have children, relegated only to explicitly kid-friendly spaces. The way to get children to learn how to fly and dine in restaurants and act civilized in public is to include them, and to let them practice again and again. Of course, those reps are easier gotten when you have a surrounding culture that acts like children are a gift, not a burden. The grace with which Portuguese culture treats families makes it easier to bear when your kid inevitably messes up in public; everyone who witnesses the tantrum or the spilled glass seems to realize that this is a normal part of living alongside kids—a little cost worth bearing to have a society that's warm and friendly and growing. The post How Portuguese Culture Makes It Easier To Parent appeared first on Solve the daily Crossword
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a day ago
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Most popular destinations for UK holidaymakers named
Resorts in Spain and Portugal are the most popular destinations for UK holidaymakers this summer, according to a new report. Malaga and Palma de Mallorca in Spain top the list, followed by Faro in Portugal, research by easyJet Holidays found. Other popular destinations included Rhodes, Tenerife and Dalaman. Edinburgh and Belfast were said to be the most popular domestic destinations for people holidaying closer to home or visiting relatives. The busiest day of the summer for travel will be July 30, easyJet predicted.