A Kyoto Itinerary That Skips the Crowds, Not the Culture

Tokyo Weekender

29-05-2025

This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 2, 2025.
To read the entire issue, click
here
.
The buzzword of 2024,
overtourism
is a major issue in Japan these days, and nowhere is it more apparent than in Kyoto. Known for its delicate balance of ancient traditions and modern artistry, Japan's old capital is a widely favored destination for travelers hoping for a tranquil experience during their stay here. What many find when they arrive, however, is a city struggling to cope with the sheer number of people.
Avoiding large crowds in Kyoto is difficult but not impossible. On the outskirts of the city, you'll find calmer districts that are well worth exploring. For those who only have a short time in the area, though, heading out too far may not be a viable option. Fortunately, there are several charming spots toward the center of the city that don't feel overbearing, as I found out during a recent trip.
Below, find recommendations for a short jaunt to Kyoto that will allow you to stay centrally located and enjoy the best of the city's culture without sacrificing tranquility and calm.
List of Contents:
Stay: The Royal Park Hotel Kyoto Umekoji
Dine: Kyoto Wagyu Ryori Issekisancho
See: Museums and Temples Where You Can Avoid the Crowds
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Stay: The Royal Park Hotel Kyoto Umekoji
The
Royal Park Hotel Kyoto Umekoji
is located just one stop on the train from Kyoto Station, or a relatively short walk through the picturesque Umekoji Park. As it was cherry blossom season when I visited, I opted for the latter.
Located near the Kyoto Railway Museum, the hotel is popular with train enthusiasts and even has a special railway-themed room, featuring bedding decorated with images of trains and shinkansen-shaped pillows, as well as pictures of the N700 and 500 series bullet trains alongside Doctor Yellow, the iconic diagnostic train. My room didn't have any of that, but it did come with a delightful view of the iconic five-storied pagoda of To-ji Temple.
Other amenities include a large public bath, ideal for a soothing soak before taking advantage of the hotel's impressive obanzai Kyoto breakfast buffet, which features a variety of dishes, including its signature beef curry.
Dine: Kyoto Wagyu Ryori Issekisancho
Kyoto Wagyu Ryori Issekisancho
is the newest branch of the renowned Tokyo-based Issekisancho restaurant group. All of the hospitality group's eateries are designed with a distinctive concept tailored to their location — and having eaten at the group's impressive sushi and yakitori establishments in Tokyo, I was eager to see what its Kyoto restaurant was like. It didn't disappoint.
A 10-minute walk from the Royal Park Hotel Kyoto Umekoji, this wagyu restaurant is located on a nondescript street, yet the entrance projects a sense of luxury. Heading inside, I was enthusiastically greeted by a kimono-clad server who ushered me past the elegant private dining rooms to a huge counter in front of an open kitchen. The setting was intimate and inviting, with the interplay of light and shadow adding to the warm yet sophisticated atmosphere.
The restaurant offers a variety of courses to choose from, including a 'Welcome to Japan' set for international guests. Included in it are several succulent wagyu dishes with beef sourced from renowned producers nationwide. The standout from my meal was the pure Tajima Usunaga beef, an ultra-exclusive wagyu brand from Kobe. It's acclaimed for its exceptional glossy marbling that gives the meat its soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture.
Along with the beef, the course also included an assortment of appetizers as well as snow crab, lobster, udon and shaved ice. Everything was prepared immaculately, and the service was first-rate. I decided to finish the evening with a gentle stroll toward To-ji Temple's pagoda to get a closer look at Japan's tallest wooden tower, which looks magnificent when illuminated at night.
See: Museums and Temples Where You Can Avoid the Crowds
First on our list:
The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto
. A 25-minute train journey from Kyoto Station, it's located across from a giant torii gate that marks the approach to Heian Jingu Shrine, which famously featured in Sofia Coppola's
Lost in Translation
. Despite being situated next to an extremely popular tourist site, the museum itself has a peaceful feel to it.
Its collection of around 13,000 works includes paintings, sculptures and crafts, with the museum's main focus being on artwork from the Kansai region. It also boasts some terrific views of the torii gate and the Okazaki Canal. The best place to enjoy the latter is from the terrace of the museum's eatery, Cafe de 505. Enjoying a light pasta lunch in front of the cherry blossoms as canal boats passed below was one of the highlights of my trip.
From the museum, it's less than 10 minutes on foot to a perfectly manicured oasis of peace hidden behind a high wall.
Murin-an Garden
is a classical Japanese promenade garden created by prominent landscape designer Ogawa Jihei VII in the 1890s; it adjoins Murin-an, the former garden villa of two-time Japanese prime minister Aritomo Yamagata.
Featuring gentle streams and waterfalls, it makes for an idyllic saunter. Guests can also enjoy matcha and Japanese sweets in the main house while overlooking the garden. The epitome of serenity, it's a delightful place to avoid the crowds, as it requires a reservation in advance and there's a limit to the number of visitors per hour.
From the peace and quiet of Murin-an Garden, it's another roughly 10-minute walk to Nanzen-ji Temple, one of Kyoto's most famous tourist spots that's usually bustling with people. Rather than following everyone up the steps to the temple, though, I recommend veering to the side to the entrance of
Tenjuan
, a subtemple of Nanzen-ji.
Inside are two small, idyllic gardens: a karesansui (dry landscape garden) with paving stones crossing a stretch of raked gravel and a pond garden with a mossy pathway and stepping stones lined up in the water. With no one else around, one feels a million miles from the hustle and bustle of city life. Cherish that feeling while you can, before it's time to head back to the crowds at Kyoto Station.
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