
Rissai Valley Ritz-Carlton Reserve, China hotel review
Surrounded in all directions by snow-capped mountains, this remote hotel is worlds apart from China 's towering neon metropolises. Two hours on the high-speed train from Chengdu, followed by an hour's drive, the hotel's villa hotel rooms have breathtaking views of the Minshan mountains and old Tibetan villages.
Just half an hour's taxi ride from the hotel is Jiuzhaigou National Park. A popular Unesco World Heritage Site, it remained untouched for centuries, inhabited only by Tibetan people, until loggers came across the area in the 1970s. Logging was banned in 1979 and it became a protected area. Meaning 'nine settlement valley' in English, the 180,000-acre area is a patchwork of sweeping mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes and cascading waterfalls.
The vibe
The late interior designer, Jaya Ibrahim, known for his dark and subtly luxurious style, with a distinctly Asian influence, has left his mark in the carefully constructed lobby. There's mindful use of natural stone and dark woods throughout, with partitioned areas that are cosy and intimate. Throughout the building, guests are struck by mountain views at every opportunity; floor-to-ceiling windows allow guests to drink in the view from the lobby, bar, restaurants and spa terrace.
The local culture is imbued into the design, with art inspired by Tibetan pattern work, staff uniforms in traditional style and a moody library with a central fireplace that's packed with books on Tibetan and Chinese history, art and culture. Nature is a major theme, whether that's blazing red foliage through the window or using flowers and plants as decoration.
The service
Immediately swept up with a warm welcome, we were greeted with yellow sashes and a traditional Tibetan dance by a smiling performer. Some staff don't speak English so a bit of extra effort (translation apps, pointing) can be needed if you don't speak Chinese. However, there is a 24-hour messaging service in English where you can request buggies to take you to breakfast, let staff know you're ready for evening turndown service, order food to your room and more.
Bed and bath
There are 87 villas on the property which face out across the valley and are accessible by buggies driven by staff. Guests arrive at the villas through small private courtyards decorated with beautiful dark wood, Chinese-style furniture, warm lighting and furnishings with natural hues of orange, red and brown. Cloud motifs on rugs and bed headboards evoke matters celestial and good fortune.
The interiors invoke a calming feeling, particularly the incredible spa-like bathrooms that come with oversized black bathtubs that offer exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. Guests can lather up with with Frederic Malle bath and hair products.
Beds also offer megawatt views of the mountains, which can be revealed at the touch of a button come morning. All rooms include terraces and balconies that feature fires pit with ample seating for evenings spent watching the sun set over the Minshan peaks and gazing at stars undisturbed by light pollution. There's a kitchen area with a Nespresso coffee machine, complimentary beer, snacks and soft drinks. The lighting is somewhat confusing, however, and not laid out in the most ergonomic manner.
Food and drink
Bo Ri Village is the restaurant where the semi-buffet breakfast is served. Dim sum, spicy noodles and Chinese porridge can be found in abundance, plus a delicious selection of pastries, granola, yak milk yoghurt and juices. This restaurant also has hot pot in the evening with individual bubbling pots of broth in which diners can boil paper thin slices of meat, including local beef from the nearby grazing cows, vegetables and seafood, such as squid, abalone and fish. Cai Lin Xuan is a fine-dining Szechuan restaurant with a variety of great local dishes; highlights include soft yak beef steak fried with chilli and buttery pork in a peppercorn sauce. There is also a Mediterranean restaurant La Montagne and a cafe/bar Lobby Lounge.
Facilities
An entire building is dedicated to the spa, pool and fitness facilities, where dark wood, candles, plants and foliage create a suitably relaxing environment in the waiting area. The pool is built to reflect the Jiuzhaigou lakes in colour, with large windows surrounding it enabling guests to gaze at the picturesque surroundings. There's a personal trainer at the gym (kitted out with TechnoGym equipment) and spa facilities with facials, foot baths, massages, plunge pools and more.
Curated cultural experiences can be arranged daily by the hotel, from fan-making in the library, to pony rides in the mountains.
Disability access
There are accessible rooms available with step-free showers.
Pet policy
No pets allowed.
Check in/check out
Check in from 3pm; check out by 12pm.
Family-friendly?
Rollaway beds/cribs available for kids. There are kids activities available including kite-flying, treasure hunts and more.
At a glance
Best thing: The cascading views from the bath.
Perfect for: Absolute escape from reality.
Not right for: Those seeking a fast-paced, buzzing environment.
Instagram from: The restaurant while eating hot pot next to the mountain view.

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