Canapes with cows, bush tucker at sunrise, croc spotting and a helicopter pub crawl: Why Australia's Northern Territory is the perfect adventure holiday

Daily Mail​

02-05-2025

I must admit, I had almost no idea about Australia's Northern Territory before embarking on an exhilarating six-day trip that became one my favourite holidays.
I'd watched the Aussie Succession-style drama,Territory, on Netflix and the sweeping shots of the outback blew me away.
So when it came to picking a honeymoon destination, my wife and I swerved on sunbathing in the Maldives or getting sozzled on cocktails in the Caribbean and booked a flight Down Under.
We made the right choice, because the Northern Territory – or the 'Top End' as locals call it – is one of the most exciting and beautiful places I have ever visited.
The gateway to the NT is the plucky, frontier city of Darwin.
The first charming thing about Darwin - and there are many - is that it's one of the closest Australian cities to the UK by plane.
If you decide to fly with Singapore Air from London Heathrow, business class passengers can access the SilverKris Lounge which is a delightful treat before a long-haul flight.
The lounge, full of comfy chairs with runway views, offers an array of delicious buffet food and a stocked bar in case you - like me - enjoy a nice pina colada with your cooked breakfast (in my defence, I was technically on holiday).
An airboat takes off across the floodplains at Finniss River Lodge station where guests can go crocodile spotting and take part in a range of activities in the outback
Airborne Solutions helicopter tours take guests around Litchfield National Park before dropping them off at a series of waterfalls for a swim
Darwin is around 18 hours with a connection – ours was via Singapore - which compared to a monstrously long flight home from Sydney (nearly 24 hours) felt like no time at all.
A coastal city sitting on the edge of two huge national parks – Kakadu and Litchfield - Darwin feels slightly isolated from the rest of Australia.
(I say 'on the edge', both the parks are more than an hour's drive away, but for Aussies that's practically next door).
But it still has everything you could need for a quick stop off before heading into the wilderness.
Adina Vibe is a four-star hotel offering apartment-style accommodation right on the sea front and is a perfect place to set up camp.
While the fancier Mindil Beach Casino Resort on the other side of town boasts rooms around its gigantic pool offering guests the chance to jump in and swim up to a cocktail bar.
Adina is next to Snapper Rocks, an Aussie tapas-style restaurant that is well worth a visit - try the salt and pepper miso croc, washed down with a schooner of local lager and you can't go wrong.
And if you feel like a night-cap, the speak easy-style bar Hanky Panky's in the city's central business district is just a 15-minute stroll away.
Darwin is fun but it is not the real reason you or I should come to the NT.
The NT is all about the national parks and to explore you definitely need a motor.
We picked up the wheels for our three-day jaunt from Adventure Rentals on the edge of town and were given a brand new automatic Toyota 4x4, decked out with a satellite phone in case of emergencies - very handy.
It was a three and half hour drive to our first stop, Cooinda Lodge in Kakadu and it flew by surprisingly quickly.
This may have been because the roads were empty as we were in the NT during the rainy season, known as 'the Wet'.
It is less popular with tourists but locals say it is a wonderful time to visit because of the explosion of luscious green flora, burst rivers, flooded plains and endless wildlife.
Most visitors chose to come in peak season, 'the Dry', when the sun is shining and crocs are easy to spot - but roads and hotels are packed.
While Darwin does feel slightly disconnected from the rest of Australia it is still a great place to stay either before or after a trip into the wilderness
Cooinda Lodge has mixed accommodation for all budgets, but Alex stayed in the Yellow Water villas that were half snazzy-tent-half-cabin (pictured, inside on the villas)
The villas at Cooinda are stylishly decorated with a comfy bed and spacious bathroom - you even get a free-standing bath tub on your own veranda (pictured, inside one of the villas)
Cooinda is also the place to catch a river cruise that takes you up Yellow Water Billabong – the region's most famous natural water habitat (pictured, a Yellow Water cruise)
We were blessed with mostly glorious sunshine during our time in Kakadu so my advice is: take a risk on the Wet and beat the crowds.
During our traffic-free cruise I claimed the first bragging rights of the trip – I SAW A CROCODILE.
My wife was envious because she was too busy driving and dodging wallabies as they darted across the road.
People in the NT are a bit croc-mad. Quite understandable, considering there are 10,000 of them in Kakadu alone.
But you are never a sentence or two away from people talking about a croc, a croc warning sign, an advert for a croc experience or even a menu for a croc dinner.
They are harder to spot during the Wet, but one thing to be aware of - just because you haven't seen the crocs it does not mean they haven't seen you.
Locals take safety very seriously and especially in dry season when the crocodiles are pushed into creeks, rivers and billabongs near roads and hotels.
You are on THEIR turf and it is very important to remember that because mucking about can result in losing limbs.
Cooinda Lodge has mixed accommodation for all budgets, but we were staying in the Yellow Water villas that were half-snazzy-tent-half-cabin.
They are stylishly decorated with a comfy bed and spacious bathroom - you even get a free-standing bath tub on your own veranda.
Cooinda is also the place to catch a river cruise that takes you up Yellow Water Billabong – the region's most famous natural water habitat.
It's a wonderful experience to sit back while a chirpy, knowledgeable guide talks you through the local wildlife and the land's sacred connection to its traditional owners, the Bininj and Mungguy people.
Sadly, for us, because of the abundance of water, the crocs were elusive.
When we got back to the room I looked out to the neighbouring jetty and noticed tall, metal railings had been put up – 'the hotel is so quiet, that's weird', I thought.
It wasn't until the next day when a friendly local – and they are all friendly in the NT – gleefully showed us a video on a Facebook group.
A crocodile had been caught thrashing around in waters by Cooinda Lodge – it turned out the railings were to stop it from breaking free and eating guests.
Close but yet so far.
But Kakadu isn't just about crocs and wildlife.
This rugged and remote beauty has been the home of the Bininj and Mungguy people for thousands of years and learning about their incredible history and ties to the land is an absolutely crucial, must-do experience.
Kakadu has been the home of the Bininj/Mungguy people for thousands of years and learning about their incredible history and ties to the land is an absolutely crucial, must-do experience
Kakadu Air tours run from an airstrip in the small town of Jabiru where pilots with moustaches and trucker hats, and seemingly fresh out of sixth-form college, whisk you away in a small fixed-wing plane (pictured)
MailOnline journalist Alex Matthews poses outside a sign warning drivers to look our for wallabies in the Northern Territory
A short drive from Cooinda is the Burrungkuy Rock Art Site, a series of beautiful cave galleries detailing important spiritual figures and traditions to the local people and offering a captivating snapshot of how the tribes lived their lives.
Visitors can also learn about the Bininj and Mungguy and their history in Kakadu at the Warradjan Cultural Centre.
Inside are fascinating accounts from the traditional owners of the land, revealing their personal histories, hunting techniques and their relationships with European settlers as well displays of artefacts and examples of bush tucker.
While for many travellers Kakadu is about throwing camping gear into a rucksack and taking off into the wilderness, some of us like the idea of being back in time for tea.
Thankfully there is a short walk that offers you a bit of both.
Nawurlandja Lookout takes about 30 mins to get to the top and offers sensational views across the park to Nourlangie Rock.
One of the best times to go is late afternoon, in time for sunset, but it is a lovely experience regardless of the time.
Kakadu by foot is special but Kakadu by air will blow you away.
Kakadu Air tours run from an airstrip in the small town of Jabiru where pilots with moustaches and trucker hats, and seemingly fresh out of sixth-form college, whisk you away in a small fixed-wing plane.
The best part of the 90-minute tour is seeing the park's many majestic waterfalls cascading below.
Some of them you can reach onfoot but to get an aerial view of the falls in all their glory is a an unforgettable experience.
We all love an adventure but do you know what is even better? An adventure with luxury accommodation.
Luckily for us our next stop was the spectacular Finniss River Lodge.
A 50,000-acre working cattle ranch on the Finniss River, between Darwin and Litchfield National Park, the lodge is a truly special place to stay.
An airboat tour across the floodplains and Finniss River is the perfect place to go croc-spotting and a highlight of any visit
Locals say that The Wet is the perfect time to visit the Northern Territory due to the explosion of lush green plants and the abundance of wildlife (Pictured, the floodplains by Finniss River Lodge)
Finniss River Lodge's pool boasts breathtaking views over the wetlands and is the perfect place to un wind with a drink
Accommodation is a series of simple but stylish huts facing out across the never-ending flood plain with a sleek restaurant next door.
I'm sure you could happily enjoy lying on a sun lounger by Finniss' infinity pool tucking into delicious snacks and knocking back some local tipple.
But it's the activities on offer that make it such a special experience.
Up first for us, was an airboat tour.
Finniss' expert guide, and all-round top bloke, Pete, weaved gracefully between trees and over the long grass, yanking plants out of the water, before popping out fresh peas for us to eat.
After enjoying our first taste of bushtucker, we casually mentioned our croc disappointment.
But diamond geezer Pete said we might have a bit of luck in a stretch of water away from the flood plains.
We got there with heads on swivels, eyes peeled, slightly terrified... and then we saw something.
Pete pointed out a crocodile's nest floating on an island of reeds - 'that's amazing!' I exclaimed, but where's the mother?
Seconds later a thrashing from the reeds grabbed our attention and a small female croc kept a beady eye on us as we lurched towards her eggs.
Even though she was quite small, about 10 yards away and we were on the safety of the airboat, I was very nervous for a split second or two.
Pete whisked away along the river and then we saw another – an absolutely huge male croc called Horace.
Almost instantly Horace, described by Pete as a 'cow killer', stalked our boat and circled around the edge.
It was then, that I realised why the locals are so serious about their neighbours.
Horace was a big lad and extremely unimpressed with us being so close so we decided to give him a bit of personal space and speed off.
Finniss' accommodation consists of luxury huts with stylish interiors boasting stunning views across the flood plains
Left, Alex Matthews enjoys a delicious outback breakfast at sunrise on Finniss and right, giant termite mounds which are a common site across the wilderness of the NT.
TOP END TIPS
TRADITIONAL OWNERS
Learning about the aboriginal tribes that have lived on the national parks for thousands of years is a very important part of visiting the NT. Visit a cultural centre or a cave art gallery and you will not regret it.
STAY CONNECTED
Investing in a fixed rate e-sim before heading out into the national parks means that if you do need internet connection to check maps or send messages you won't come home to a huge phone bill back in the UK.
BE SENSIBLE
If you see a crocodile sign alongside the road as you drive over a creek – don't get out to take a pic. These signs are not there for the sake of it!
BE PREPARED
Make sure you travel with plenty of water and snacks if you are going off on a day trip or adventure in the national parks. It is also advised to buy sun tan lotion and bug spray and to slap it on before venturing out.
BY THE SEASIDE
Stay away from the beaches in Darwin – the locals don't go in the water because of salt water crocs!
Back at the ranch, we're off the airboat and onto a buggy for another adventure.
We whizzed past grazing wallabees and into the fields for a quirky experience called Cows with Canapes.
My ideal interaction with a cow involves a burger and chips so I can't say I was necessarily thrilled about the idea of snacking next to one.
Pete whipped open lunchboxes packed full of gourmet canapes of local produce by Finniss' fantastic chef, Lachlan, and we tucked-in while knocking back cans of lager and glasses of bubbles.
Other members of the incredibly friendly staff popped by for a bev and the cows, which are absolutely massive by the way, came over for a stroke.
They are tactile and friendly, but make you feel very crushable. It was nervy at times but after 20 mins, and importantly two cans, you get used to it.
After this bizarre but delightful experience we went back to the lodge to wash up for dinner.
A delicious three-course meal followed with lamb kofte kebabs and potatoes cooked in the bark of nearby paper tree.
Dinner was fantastic but breakfast stole the show.
We got up at 6am and were whisked back across the ranch and into the outback, to a mystery location as the sun was coming up.
We eventually arrived at a clearing surrounded by giant termite mounds – you see these a lot in the Top End – dwarfing both us and our buggy.
Standing in the clearing was Lachlan preparing our breakfast feast, complete with fresh orange juice and coffee.
The giant mounds, which look like something you'd see on an alien planet, did make me feel a bit queasy.
I wouldn't usually associate them with an unmissable fine dining experience.
But actually it was wonderful to be enjoying a meal at sunrise in such a beautiful part of the world and if you get the chance, you should definitely do it.
Just try not to think about what the mounds are made of as you enjoy your fritatta.
It was extremely hard to leave Finniss and head back into the world.
Alex Matthews enjoys a drink while stopping at the pub on the remote goat island during the helicopter pub crawl
One of the delightful waterfalls visited by Alex during his helicopter tour of Litchfield park where guests can cool off in falls and water holes
But thankfully, we were not saying 'see ya mate' to the stunning scenery of our now beloved Top End just yet.
Once back in Darwin, we took our final tour and one I had most been looking forward to – a helicopter pub crawl.
It sounds like a recipe for disaster, but don't worry - you do all the drinking, not the pilot.
Our tour by Airborne Solutions, from an airstrip a 15-minute drive from the centre of the city, takes you out into Litchfield National Park and drops you off at a series of pubs – the most remote being on a tiny stretch of land called Goat Island.
Goat Island is home to one man and one pub – an eccentric character who went viral after fighting off a crocodile with a frying pan after it attacked his dog.
The pubs are great but the real reason to go on the tour are the waterfalls and rock pools.
Sitting in the tiny helicopter (which have no doors because it gets so hot) as the pilot lands on rocks at the top of waterfall is so impressive it will blow your socks off.
So there I was splashing about in the crystal clear water, hundreds of miles away from civilisation before being dropped for drinks at various pubs in the bush.
What's not to like?
At the end of eating, drinking, walking, driving, floating, flying and swimming our way around the Top End we were gutted to leave.
We'd seen buffalo, countless birds, wallabies and, of course, crocodiles.
We'd stayed in some magical places, watched one of Darwin's iconic lightning storms - typically for the NT, it was exciting but slightly scary - and met some lovely people.
It was an exhausting action-packed few days but the authentic Aussie experience we were desperate for.
Would we go back? In a heartbeat.