Frou Frou review: Parisian vibes at The Lana Promenade in Business Bay

The National

28-02-2025

Nestled alongside the waters of Marasi Bay Marina, a new little pocket of France can be found in the shape of Parisian restaurant Frou Frou. Taking its name from the silk found in the skirts made famous by the popular can-can dance, the restaurant – part of Alexander Orlov's Bulldozer Group – opened in January and is the latest venue to open on The Lana Promenade in Business Bay. Gallic influence in Dubai is nothing new, with restaurants such as LPM, Bagatelle, Couqley, Josette and more quickly making names for themselves in the emirate. Frou Frou is attempting to join elite company and it's with this backdrop that my dining partner and I arrive to try it out. Frou Frou's decor is entirely in keeping with the restaurant's namesake, with colourful artwork that encapsulates the distinctive vibes of Paris. That said, the views out over Marasi Bay and the looming presence of Burj Khalifa are inescapable, so there's a wonderful sense of old meets new – the tradition and elegance of French gastronomy blended with the modernity that's made Dubai famous. There are three main areas within the restaurant itself – an intimate lounge for light bites and arrival drinks, a large dining room with an open-plan kitchen and an outdoor terrace offering spectacular views across Business Bay. My dining partner and I are lucky to visit on a beautiful, clear evening with a still breeze so we take the opportunity to sit outside and take in the scene around us as we dine. Saying that, the difference in vibe at Frou Frou changes quite dramatically depending on where you choose to sit. The outdoor terrace is very quiet and private, which suits us perfectly, but if you're more inclined to soaking up a lively atmosphere, then the interior seating would be my suggestion for you. It's noisy, fun and full of life, with the open kitchen making you feel part of everything, while the terrace is more serene and intimate. Frou Frou's menu is archetypally French in every sense. Among the starters are classics such as salade nicoise (Dh120) and French onion soup (Dh75), there's a truffle chicken sharing platter (Dh300) among the mains and, of course, you can find creme brulee (Dh55) in the dessert selection. My dining partner and I opt to share a selection of starters before diving into our main courses on the recommendation of our server, Shikhar. We try the beef tartare (Dh160), the tuna tartare with avocado and shiso dressing (Dh160), and the king crab salad (Dh180). Each brings their own distinctive taste, but it's the tuna that stands out as the real crowd pleaser. Admittedly it's a bit of a go-to starter in Dubai, but this dish stands out with the freshness of the avocado and shiso giving it a light and healthy feel that makes it, in many ways, the perfect starter. For the main courses, my dining partner opts for the whole red mullet (Dh150) while I go for the black angus ribeye (Dh250). With these, we share sides of ratatouille (Dh40) and mashed potato (Dh35). The beauty of these dishes is their simplicity, in terms of both taste and presentation. The red mullet, in particular, is served whole and filleted at the table by our server meaning we're treated to the vibrant colours of the fish before my dining partner tucks into it. The steak, meanwhile, is expertly cooked and blends beautifully with the stewed vegetables in the ratatouille. For dessert, we replicate our mains and go for the simplistic beauty of two French classics; creme brulee (Dh55) and Parisian chocolate tart (Dh100). The tart is the showstopper here, presented in a pot featuring bubbling chocolate sauce. It's the perfect end to a meal for anyone with a sweet tooth. While for those who favour a more savoury end to their dinner, there is a wide selection of cheeses to choose from on Frou Frou's fromage menu. One key issue with Frou Frou is its price range. The food is admittedly excellent but, for what you're paying, there are other Dubai venues that offer comparable quality for far less money. As for what I'd avoid, the king crab salad is a little underwhelming considering it costs Dh180. Chef Leonid Ivanov is the main man at Frou Frou. He describes himself as a connoisseur in Mediterranean and French cuisine, having spent almost a decade working and learning his craft in the gallic nation. His plan at Frou Frou is to 'reimagine French cuisine in a modern way, presenting a rich melange of flavours that's both sophisticated and unexpected, designed for local tastes'. Frou Frou is located at The Lana Promenade, Dorchester Collection, Business Bay, Dubai. It is open daily from noon to 1am. Reservations can be made by calling on 04 834 8397. This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant