Paris Fashion Week lights up with bold hues from Issey Miyake, Sean Suen, Bluemarble and Amiri
A renewed sense of vibrancy pulsed through the menswear collections on day three of Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2026. In contrast to the subdued tones that have dominated recent seasons—often reflecting the world's uncertain climate—color made a striking comeback. Designers embraced both delicate, springlike hues and fearless, high-impact tones, signaling a shift toward optimism on the runway. Nowhere was this bold resurgence more apparent than at Issey Miyake, Sean Suen, Bluemarble and Amiri.
See catwalk
At Issey Miyake, innovation met performance in a showcase that placed fabric and movement at the forefront. The IM Men collection, titled "Dancing Texture," debuted at the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, where colossal textile panels depicting abstract landscapes floated above a live performance. Dancers moved fluidly beneath them, dressed in samurai-inspired garments that brought the designs' sculptural qualities to life.
Color and texture took the lead, expressed through inventive techniques. The design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi drew inspiration from Japanese ceramicist Shoji Kamoda. His rounded, scale-like motifs were echoed across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats in a lively color palette.
Elsewhere, the collection explored the contrast of matte vermilion against undulating white, inspired by Kamoda's jars, or adopted the look of ash-glazed ceramics. Textures deepened—from faded gray denim sets to wavy-knit leggings and satin harem trousers in emerald green.
As always, the label displayed a masterful sense of color harmony. Vivid and pastel tones were layered with effortless finesse, such as a grass-green raincoat worn over a bright red jacket and electric blue trousers, or a lilac cotton suit paired with a lime mandarin-collar shirt.
See catwalk
At Sean Suen, subtle bursts of color brought freshness to a neutral-toned wardrobe. Golden yellow and olive green cropped sweaters were layered over powder blue and sky-colored shirts, paired with flowing trousers or Bermudas. A pale pink trench was thrown over an ice-blue knit and a sage green shirt, creating a dreamlike palette.
The Chinese designer envisioned a hazy summer afternoon: a student slouched over his desk in a law library—specifically, the historic Cujas Law Library, repurposed as the show venue—drifting into reverie. These daydreams materialized as silhouettes that blurred eras, styles and fabrics. Draped wraps reminiscent of antiquity were worn over modern shorts, blending fantasy and wearability.
Classic suits in lightweight wool or distressed leather were reinterpreted through surreal details: trousers clipped to jackets, shirt collars with ancient coin buttons, tank tops adorned at chest height with the same coins, sleeve-like scarves trailing to the ground, and ribbon-tied socks evoking the opulence of the Louis XIV era.
See catwalk
At Bluemarble, color reached an explosive crescendo. Roaring tigers were woven into red sweaters, highlighter-yellow pants clashed playfully with oversized green coats lined in camouflage, and caftan-style tunics were covered in travel pins, rendered in both vibrant orange and multicolor versions.
This season, designer Anthony Alvarez looked to his childhood in Toulon for inspiration, recalling trips up Mont Faron in a cable car. These nostalgic visuals—azure skies, snow-capped peaks, steel cables—were translated into prints on denim pieces, while models walked through a fog-filled runway scattered with leaves and bark.
The collection leaned into Bluemarble's streetwear essence with a more focused, grounded approach: ripped and washed jeans, hoodies, bombers, and knitwear—all accented with shimmering embellishments. Sequined mosaics lit up white T-shirts, rhinestone edelweiss motifs climbed up trousers and burst across shirts, and metal studs discreetly dotted lumberjack plaids. Climbing ropes edged pockets, continuing the mountaineering theme with a youthful twist.
See catwalk
Amiri transported its audience to a romantic, storybook setting, presenting its collection in a classic French garden adorned with fountains, gravel paths and rose-covered trellises. Spring unfolded in full bloom—both figuratively and literally—as embroidered cherry blossoms stretched across shoulders, crept down jackets and spilled over cardigans. One standout tapestry-style bomber was entirely saturated in florals, blurring the line between garment and garden.
The American label's signature dandies remained as suave as ever, with vintage hotel room keys dangling from belt loops and lapels, and '70s sunglasses completing the look. Waistcoats plunged dramatically, jackets lengthened with exaggerated lapels, and leather pieces were so soft they mimicked the sheen of satin.
Models strode confidently in three-piece suits—whether in lightweight wool with pinstripes or Prince of Wales checks, or in lush velvets. Tailoring was flawlessly fluid, and rich embellishments—satin lapels, embroidered motifs—elevated the ensembles. Pajama sets were paired with luxurious silk robes, and sparkling polos added flair. Between safari jackets with cigar pockets and lace-trimmed pieces, these modern dandies had no shortage of stylish choices.
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Then everything seemed to blend together. The fluid jackets of light-toned pleated suit-tailors were enhanced by XXL collars and lapels in brightly colored felt. Long, multicolored vests slipped over double-breasted banker suits or micro-check suits, sometimes adorned with ruffled collars. Models presented themselves with long hair waving down their backs or tied in thick braids, a giant double-cuffed cap screwed onto their heads, and boots and fishnet socks on their feet. See catwalk In these times of war, Mihara Yasuhiro viewed her new collection as an ode to ordinary people and the everyday wardrobe. Her fashion seems to be built from the smallest of elements, a veritable eulogy to simplicity, as illustrated by this crocheted cap. An old tracksuit, a worn-out sweater, or a pair of faded pants were plucked from the back of the wardrobe and put together in a totally improvised way. 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Dark glasses add the finishing touch to this new dandy style. The same fabrics were used in denim jackets worn over his peasant overalls. "This time, I was interested in something old but seemingly new, or something new, born of the reproduction of old objects," said Junya Watanabe in his note of intent, who also multiplied collaborations as with each of his men's collections, calling on Camper, Lee, Levi's, New Balance, and Tricker's, among others. The music suddenly turned jazzy, while the rebel vein showed its nose in tweed suits with tight, knee-length pants constructed like biker pants and paired with little camel trench coats. Long, loose-fitting white bib shirts hybridized with chunky metal chains, ties, or silk scarves, which were also found embedded in jeans. A series of superb jacquard sweaters closed the show with soothing bucolic images, while in the final looks jackets and coats reproduced tapestry-like views of Venice and Florence. See catwalk Tailoring was also at the heart of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus' collection for the next summer. The suit was revisited and reinterpreted in two contrasting versions. In technicolor or black and white, in masculine fabrics or harlequin fantasies, classic or unstructured cuts. The first part of the collection featured a series of suits in cheerful prints with graphic and colorful patterns, composed of straight, tight pants and frock coats inflated at the sides and draped at the back. This was followed by models in black fabric with exploded construction. Sleeve tops unravel as they fall to mid-arm, ruching ribbons escape down trouser legs through zipped slits, and hips take on volume via whalebones. "I feel like we could really use someone powerful like a shaman to bring us back to peace, love, and brotherhood," commented designer Rei Kawakubo in a note, who also interpreted the Bermuda suit in black or white cotton piqué with short jackets and fluctuating pants. 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A bit like the percussive music that accompanied the show, whose musician was none other than a child tapping and rubbing on a table with two pencils. A few playful accessories underlined this everyday life, which could suddenly turn out to be extraordinary. These included a banana worn as a pendant, a tube of toothpaste threaded through a metal case suspended from a chain, and a paper bag-shaped handbag containing a wand and a bouquet of flowers. And let's not forget the patches scattered across pants and shirts, where the letters of the slogan "ordinary people" were displayed in disorder in the fun graffiti of Navinder Nangla, the dyslexic street artist from Northampton. "Don't tag me" also appeared in large letters on some of the T-shirts. As usual, Mihara Yasuhiro mixed different pieces together, playing on stratifications and surprising constructions with dual identities, front and back. The shirt came in a striped poplin on the front and denim on the back, while the khaki nylon jacket on one side became a silver bomber on the other, and the canvas pants were nothing more than tracksuits seen from behind. Other facetious garments included double-collared shirts, three-in-one hoodies, jackets worn by two or tops with two pairs of sleeves in two different sizes. Very practical. See catwalk Mischievous humor also ran through the Kenzo collection, where creative director Nigo resurrected the joyful, playful spirit of founder Kenzo Takada with an energetic runway show at Maxim 's, an emblematic address in Belle Epoque Paris, transformed for the occasion into a nightclub, where girls and boys raided their wardrobes to create the craziest looks. The collection's eclectic mix-and-match of styles and influences, from Kenzo Takada's 1970s studio to Nigo's streetwear community and Andy Warhol's Factory, was a mix of retro inspiration, Japanese culture, subversive punk, pop, and couture. Silk shirts were tied at the collar with a lavaliere-style ribbon. Tuxedo jackets were offered in vibrant colors and ended up as satin-trimmed kimono jackets. Proud red officer or hussar jackets were also available. Archival prints, such as big flowers and tiger stripes, took over many pieces, including shirts, pants, and hooded jackets with teddy bear ears. Pants were loose and baggy. Accessories were not to be outdone, with hotel slippers, vertiginous platform bowling shoes, bags, and caps covered in patches, colorful straps falling down the sides, long glamorous knitted gloves. A collection rich in ideas and references. Perhaps a little too much.
Fashion Network
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Paris Fashion Week lights up with bold hues from Issey Miyake, Sean Suen, Bluemarble and Amiri
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Color and texture took the lead, expressed through inventive techniques. The design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi drew inspiration from Japanese ceramicist Shoji Kamoda. His rounded, scale-like motifs were echoed across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats in a lively color palette. Elsewhere, the collection explored the contrast of matte vermilion against undulating white, inspired by Kamoda's jars, or adopted the look of ash-glazed ceramics. Textures deepened—from faded gray denim sets to wavy-knit leggings and satin harem trousers in emerald green. As always, the label displayed a masterful sense of color harmony. Vivid and pastel tones were layered with effortless finesse, such as a grass-green raincoat worn over a bright red jacket and electric blue trousers, or a lilac cotton suit paired with a lime mandarin-collar shirt. See catwalk At Sean Suen, subtle bursts of color brought freshness to a neutral-toned wardrobe. Golden yellow and olive green cropped sweaters were layered over powder blue and sky-colored shirts, paired with flowing trousers or Bermudas. A pale pink trench was thrown over an ice-blue knit and a sage green shirt, creating a dreamlike palette. The Chinese designer envisioned a hazy summer afternoon: a student slouched over his desk in a law library—specifically, the historic Cujas Law Library, repurposed as the show venue—drifting into reverie. These daydreams materialized as silhouettes that blurred eras, styles and fabrics. Draped wraps reminiscent of antiquity were worn over modern shorts, blending fantasy and wearability. Classic suits in lightweight wool or distressed leather were reinterpreted through surreal details: trousers clipped to jackets, shirt collars with ancient coin buttons, tank tops adorned at chest height with the same coins, sleeve-like scarves trailing to the ground, and ribbon-tied socks evoking the opulence of the Louis XIV era. See catwalk At Bluemarble, color reached an explosive crescendo. Roaring tigers were woven into red sweaters, highlighter-yellow pants clashed playfully with oversized green coats lined in camouflage, and caftan-style tunics were covered in travel pins, rendered in both vibrant orange and multicolor versions. This season, designer Anthony Alvarez looked to his childhood in Toulon for inspiration, recalling trips up Mont Faron in a cable car. These nostalgic visuals—azure skies, snow-capped peaks, steel cables—were translated into prints on denim pieces, while models walked through a fog-filled runway scattered with leaves and bark. The collection leaned into Bluemarble's streetwear essence with a more focused, grounded approach: ripped and washed jeans, hoodies, bombers, and knitwear—all accented with shimmering embellishments. Sequined mosaics lit up white T-shirts, rhinestone edelweiss motifs climbed up trousers and burst across shirts, and metal studs discreetly dotted lumberjack plaids. Climbing ropes edged pockets, continuing the mountaineering theme with a youthful twist. See catwalk Amiri transported its audience to a romantic, storybook setting, presenting its collection in a classic French garden adorned with fountains, gravel paths and rose-covered trellises. Spring unfolded in full bloom—both figuratively and literally—as embroidered cherry blossoms stretched across shoulders, crept down jackets and spilled over cardigans. One standout tapestry-style bomber was entirely saturated in florals, blurring the line between garment and garden. The American label's signature dandies remained as suave as ever, with vintage hotel room keys dangling from belt loops and lapels, and '70s sunglasses completing the look. Waistcoats plunged dramatically, jackets lengthened with exaggerated lapels, and leather pieces were so soft they mimicked the sheen of satin. Models strode confidently in three-piece suits—whether in lightweight wool with pinstripes or Prince of Wales checks, or in lush velvets. Tailoring was flawlessly fluid, and rich embellishments—satin lapels, embroidered motifs—elevated the ensembles. Pajama sets were paired with luxurious silk robes, and sparkling polos added flair. Between safari jackets with cigar pockets and lace-trimmed pieces, these modern dandies had no shortage of stylish choices.
