Inside H Street's New Bottomless Sushi Bar

Eater

a day ago

Washingtonians are undeniably obsessed with sushi — from sleek Capitol Hill hot spots to hole-in-the-wall gems in Northern Virginia, raw fish wrapped in nori has become more than a trend; it's a regular must for most. With an ever-growing number of omakase counters, conveyor belts, and Michelin-starred standbys dotting the region, locals are spoiled for choice when it comes to quality and variety. Yet, for all the options, one crucial experience remained elusive: the holy grail of indulgence — all-you-can-eat sushi. That is, until Sushi Sato entered the chat, shaking up the scene on Tuesday, July 1 with bottomless nigiri, rolls, and sashimi that doesn't skimp on freshness or flair (1245 H Street NE).
Sushi Sato is the brainchild of prolific D.C. chef Tim Ma (Lucky Danger), who came up with the idea to do an AYCE endeavor during a casual evening with his children, as they eagerly devoured roll after roll – an experience many can relate to. Ma envisioned a place where families, friends, and foodies alike could enjoy unlimited sushi without the usual price tag associated with high-quality fish – anywhere from $12 to $20 per roll.
'In the world we are in right now, the perception of value is important,' Ma says. 'It just made sense with the current state of the union.'
Pricing also feels comparable to other bottomless options across the District. A standard experience will set you back $55, while a premium adventure goes for $75. Both come with a 90-minute limit, and Ma cautions diners will be charged for uneaten food. Children also have a unique pricing tier, which is based on height: Under three feet, 75-percent off the full price; and under four feet, 50-percent off.
For the casual raw fish enthusiast to the more mature palate, this is a rare opportunity to indulge freely in everything from yellowtail and salmon nigiri to classic rolls like spicy shrimp and tuna rolls, which arrive with six on a plate. The specialty rolls range from the expected to quirky. A vegetable-friendly garden roll features grilled asparagus, shitake, avocado, caramelized onion, and chili garden crunch, while 'She's on Fire!' combines spicy scallop, spicy shrimp, cucumber, crunchy flakes, and jalapeño. Perhaps the most eye-turning roll across the entire menu is the 'In-N-Out,' perfect for Californians craving a little bit of the Left Coast. There's growing popularity of fusion food, so what happens when you take the familiar flavors of an all-American classic and merge it with time old Japanese preparation? Shabu beef, shredded lettuce, cheddar cheese, caramelized onion, tempura crumbs, and Thousand Island dressing.
To the delight of the not-so-sushi-obsessed, there are plenty of other dishes to try, including chicken and egg rice, creamy wasabi udon noodles and shrimp tempura, and miso black cod. Starters include a crispy rice trio of spicy tuna, spicy shrimp, and kani salad, eggplant tempura, and gyoza. If the aforementioned bites feel too overwhelming to eat in one sitting, there's also a reasonable a la carte direction with all the same selections. Despite the popularity of omakase rising, Ma confirmed he won't add an option for that in the future, either.
'I will say we started up there. But as we worked through the brand and concept development, I'm not sure that's what H Street needs right now or the city needs right now. And so we really took it down a lot of notches.'
When it comes to cocktails, Ma says they've got a full liquor license, but the beverage program will be fairly simple in order to let the cuisine shine. Think themed libations featuring Japanese spirits ranging in the traditional to more daring as the restaurant cements its personality in Washington. And ACYD (select beers) runs $19.
As for location, Ma says it was a no-brainer selecting the H Street neighborhood to set up shop. After Bronze quietly closed its doors late last year, chef and his team capitalized on the four-story venue and accompanying Afro-futuristic decor.
'To be honest, it was a beautiful restaurant .. and all pretty neutral with a lot of browns and tan,' Ma lauded. 'So, we spent most of our construction on redecorating and then building out that sushi bar, which is obviously a central piece of what we need.'
While still maintaining the original integrity, changes like a sushi counter was added for entertainment and other iterations to reflect new beginnings. Unbeknownst to many, the third floor had a small patio attached, but was rarely used by the previous occupants. That will change moving forward to accommodate more guests longing for al fresco dining.
'People come in to feel more relaxed than anything else,' he says. 'I would just want everyone to come with no expectations and keep very light. It's kind of the direction that a lot of the stuff that we're doing right now is going.' See More: DC Restaurant Openings
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