Swap Barcelona for Malaga, Santorini for Milos: where to skip the crowds but not the vibe

Irish Times

2 days ago

When the phrase 'destination dupes' was coined by an online travel platform two years ago and subsequently hijacked by TikTokers keen to show off their travel credentials, it was viewed by many as just a simple play on words designed to sell holidays in some lesser-fancied destinations.
In truth, that is probably all it was, at least at the time.
But the notion of swapping out one very popular – and sometimes overpriced – destination for another broadly similar one that is quieter and cheaper, cooler and maybe even more friendly has started to gain more currency over the last 18 months. There are three reasons for this.
First, there is the depressing and apparently endless cost-of-living crisis. A
recent study from the Irish League of Credit Unions found that almost a quarter of Irish people cannot afford to take holidays abroad.
Even among those who can, there's a significant cohort who can no longer afford to visit the most popular and priciest destinations and are, as a result, seeking out cheaper alternatives.
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A second reason we are suddenly in our Destination Dupe era is that many places – the likes of Barcelona, Lisbon,
Venice
and the Spanish islands – are simply
touristed
out.
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A constant post-Covid stream of visitors to some of Europe's most popular locations has fuelled resentment among local people. They are tired, understandably, of the big crowds and the negative impact over-tourism has had on their way of life and cost of living.
Spanish
,
Italian
,
Portuguese
, Dutch and
French
people quite reasonably point out that a proliferation of
Airbnb
lettings across their cities have worsened housing crises. They add that tourists concentrated in a relatively small area – like La Rambla in Barcelona or the centre of Amsterdam (or Temple Bar) – can make a place as unlovable as it is uninhabitable.
Some holidaymakers who are tuned in to the mood of locals in the places they visit are seeking alternatives. They are taking roads less travelled and heading for cities, towns, villages and seaside resorts where they can find better value and fewer other tourists.
And finally, there is the heat. Over recent weeks it has been scorchio across much of Europe, with many tourism hotspots baked in temperatures above 40 degrees, making them dangerous to be in.
While the problems of higher prices and over-tourism might well be transient – or at least their impact on key locations might lessen over time – the
climate crisis
is only going to get worse. That will see more people going in search of cooler (literally and metaphorically) alternatives, swapping out the Mediterranean Sea for the North Sea, or the Balearics for the Baltic.
So, here are our favourite alternatives to some of the world's most popular destinations. They are just as enriching but without the crowds, costs and possibly even the heat.
Swap New York for Montreal
Students relax on the lawn at McGill University in Montreal on Oct. 4, 2023. Montreal has far too much for just 36 hours, but if you bring some good walking shoes, youÕll find terrific meals, stunning views atop Mont-Royal and a creative spirit that comes across in any language. (Clara Lacasse/The New York Times)
New York
's movie-like streets, interesting people and towering skyscrapers make it a unique place. However, with long-term residents jostling for space with corporate go-getters, it's no secret that it's a crowded and expensive city. If it's the cosmopolitan feel that draws you to the Big Apple, Montreal in
Canada
also has that in spades – and it's budget-friendly.
With a rich history of immigration, Montreal's neighbourhoods – from the enclaves of Little Portugal, Little Italy and Chinatown to the hip Le Plateau and the charm of Old Montreal – are as distinct as New York's.
Mural by Baguette Brochette in Montreal. Photograph: Tourisme Montréal
Plus, the food scene is just as spectacular. It houses famous eateries that have been serving up the same family recipes for generations (try Schwartz's Deli) alongside innovative dining options like Les Mômes. Found in the relaxed Villeray area, it delivers elevated French cuisine with a strong emphasis on local ingredients and sustainable processes – and it's BYOB (bring your own beer).
Getting there:
Air Canada flies direct from Dublin to Montreal from €525.
Where to stay:
Hôtel Monville
(double rooms from €162) offers sweeping views of the financial district and is centrally located for all of Montreal's main attractions.
Swap Barcelona for Malaga
Malaga, on the Costa del Sol in Spain. Photograph: Getty Images
It has been well documented that Barcelona – once among the most effortlessly cool cities to visit on a weekend break in Europe – no longer likes us. From spraying unsuspecting tourists sipping (overpriced) sangria on La Rambla to painting 'tourists go home' graffiti all over the city, Catalans have made it clear they're fed up.
They are, of course allowed to be fed up (although they could ease off on the extreme hostility). If you still want your Spanish city break and don't want to be glowered at, try Malaga. Its airport is one of the busiest in Europe but the tourists who fly in tend to immediately go west to the Costa del Sol resort towns, or east towards Nerja. The city itself is, however, a joy to stay in with its Roman ruins, looming castle, labyrinthine streets, great-value restaurants, echoes of Pablo Picasso and all the shopping you could possibly want.
Getting there:
Ryanair and Aer Lingus fly into Malaga several times a day.
Where to stay:
At the risk of enraging some locals, there are good-value Airbnbs smack in the centre of the old town. If you want a hotel, there are many but the four-star
Hotel Ilunion
with stunning sea views has rooms in September for €184 a night.
Swap Santorini for Milos
Tourists enjoy a quiet holiday on the beautiful white rock formations in Sarakiniko beach, on the north shore of Milos island, Greece. Photograph: Borchee/Getty Images
The blue-domed, whitewashed buildings of Santorini are almost as famous as the magical sunsets that bathe them in citrus colours during the golden hour. But just out of shot on Instagram are the groups of tourists ready for the same view. Happily, similar vistas are on offer in
Greece
's many other islands – 230 of them, in fact.
Milos, a 2½ hour ferry ride from Athens, is top of the bunch. It has all the beauty and crystal-clear waters you'd want on a Greek island trip, a remote and relaxed feel, and infrastructure to experience it all with ease. Rent a boat to beach-hop around the island and don't miss Kleftiko, famed as an old pirate hideout.
And sunsets? Get the best view on the island at its Venetian Castle – it's worth the climb up the hill.
Getting there:
Ryanair and Aer Lingus fly direct from Dublin to Athens from €93.
Where to stay:
Capetan Giorgantas
(double rooms from €71) is a light, airy hotel with nautical touches – fitting as it is conveniently located near the ferry port.
Swap Venice for Bari
Bari, Italy is a gateway to Puglia. Photograph:There's no replicating a floating city that nonchalantly shows off magnificence at every corner. Yet the essence of Venice is a city with heaps of Italian history and charm, and that's what Bari offers too – plus its main landmark is a floating former theatre, Teatro Margherita.
On the southern coast at the heel of Italy, it's a working city that's popular with nearby holidaymakers. More recently, as the gateway to the rest of Puglia, it has welcomed international tourists.
The place to be is its stunning old town. Because of centuries of invasion from the Adriatic Sea, its narrow streets flanked by tall housing feels like a maze for anyone who enters except for its residents. But getting lost within it, encountering sturdy women selling their kitchen-made pasta, small squares for people watching and restaurants that you'll never find again despite best efforts, is a joy.
Getting there:
Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Bari from €137.
Where to stay:
The three-star
Palazzo Calo
(double rooms from €145) is a rustic building with stylish, contemporary rooms in the heart of the action.
Swap the Algarve for Zandvoort
Venti Beach houses in Zandvoort, Amsterdam. Photograph: Fotostudio Zandvoort
Zandvoort is one of the biggest beach resorts in the
Netherlands
and very accessible, with trains leaving from Amsterdam's central station every 30 minutes for a 40-minute journey. The beach is stunning and the town buzzing with shops and bars and beachside restaurants.
While
temperatures in Spain and Portugal reached record highs of 46 degrees
during the recent heatwave, in Zandvoort, it was much more pleasant with highs in the early 20s.
The North Sea can be on the chilly side, but in high summer when the sun is beating down, a quick dip – and it will be pretty quick – will be just what you need.
The town itself if pretty sleepy – even when overrun with (mostly northern European) tourists – but if you tire of beach days, the wonderful city of Haarlem is a short hop away and definitely worth a visit. Amsterdam is also within easy reach, though bear in mind that the city is front and centre when it comes to over-tourism and your presence in high season might not be welcomed (although you might get away with it if you are not on a stag or hen, or spending your days getting stoned in the city's coffee shops).
Getting there:
Ryanair and Aer Lingus fly into Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport, with return flights this summer available for under €50 on some dates.
Where to stay:
Rooms in the four-star
NH Zandvoort
in August are currently available for €208 per night.
Swap Ibiza for Pag
Novalja's colourful waterfront view in the Dalmatia region of Croatia. Photograph: Getty Images
Ibiza's clubbing scene has already been replicated in other party islands like Mykonos in Greece, and Pag in Croatia has fast become a reputable alternative. Most of the year, it's a remote, quiet island with lunar landscapes on its rugged eastern side, and verdant forests to the west. But from June to August, Novalja is the place for party people.
Thumping dance festivals like Hideout, Sunscape and Sonus take place on Zrće beach, attracting thousands of revellers to this paradise island. With a circus theme and cake-smushing for festivalgoers, Circus Maximus, taking place at the end of July, is especially wild.
Blow away the cobwebs the morning after the night before with a dip in Pag's turquoise waters, or its walking trails through peaceful countryside – just mind the ubiquitous sheep in Pag.
Getting there:
Ryanair fly direct from Dublin and Cork to Zadar from €71.
Where to stay:
3.5km away from Zrće Beach, the seafront
Hotel Kaneo
(doubles from €80, rising to €225 in high season) is exactly what's needed after a night out: rooms are plush and comfortable, and the outdoor pool offers stunning sea views.
Swap New Orleans for Savannah, Georgia
Oak trees and colonial houses in downtown Savannah. Photograph:To immerse yourself in Southern livin', good times and folklore,
New Orleans
isn't the only option in the States.On the Atlantic coast, 900km east, Savannah is a vibrant, youthful city that's fast becoming a favourite with holidaying
Americans
.
Central to its appeal is its historic aesthetic – like New Orleans' French Quarter, its commitment to historical architecture transports you to a different time period entirely (it's no surprise that Savannah is supposed to be America's most haunted city). Southern fare is big in Savannah, but expect contemporary twists – for example, at Garage at Victory North, the famous red rice is turned into a creamy risotto.
Best of all, you won't have to book your accommodation for Savannah months in advance. And when you do, like the rest of the holiday, it will be keenly priced.
Getting there:
Connecting flights to Savannah with JetBlue, Aer Lingus, Finnair, Delta, British Airways and American Airlines start from €742.
Where to stay:
The Old Harbour Inn
(double rooms from €152) is in a converted warehouse from 1892, and many original features remain.
Swap Bodrum for Ksamil
Ksamil beach, the jewel of the Albanian Riviera, in the Vlore province. Photograph: Tuul &You may not have heard of the jewel of the
Albanian
Riviera, but it is becoming increasingly popular thanks to its gloriously white sands, crystal clear waters and great value places to eat.
Ksamil (the K is silent) sits on the Ionian Sea close to Corfu, and on the fringes of the Unesco-protected Butrint National Park, with its Roman ruins and gorgeous little lakes. At high season the beaches are very busy – you will have to pay a tenner or more to access a lounger with no option to just lay down your towel – so you might want to avoid booking in July or August, but in the shoulder months it can be a little piece of heaven.
The restaurants are plentiful and very cheap indeed – a meal for two including wine won't cost more than €30, while beers often cost less than €1.
Getting there:
No direct flights. Fly from Dublin to Corfu with Ryanair or Aer Lingus and then take a 35-minute ferry to the city of Sarande, and a bus to cover the 15km to the resort. It is a bit of journey, but isn't travel supposed to be an adventure?
Where to stay:
There are plenty of hotels with few costing more than €200 a night, and many budget options for under €100. Try the three-star
Hotel Villa Qendra
with rooms from €91.
Swap Bruges for Tallinn
Toompea hill with tower Pikk Hermann and Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Tallinn, Estonia. Photograph:The
Belgian
city of Bruges is world famous for its historical architecture, old town and great beer. But Tallinn in
Estonia
does the same for a fraction of the price.
Located on the northeast of mainland Europe by the Baltic Sea, the Estonian capital is also simple to navigate. The city is a 15-minute drive from the airport, and it's an eminently walkable town.
With its patchwork of squares and Hanseatic and Gothic buildings, Vanalinn, the Unesco-protected old town, it is one of Europe's best-preserved medieval areas. Yet its recent tech industry boom means that there's a dynamism to Tallinn – within Vanalinn's narrow, cobbled streets, you'll also find a buzzing nightlife, where the bill for a meal often totals €20 and a pint costs €5.
Getting there:
Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Tallinn from €64.
Where to stay:
Stay in a slice of history –
The Three Sisters Hotel
(doubles from €108) is a faithfully renovated hotel within a striking 600-year old building.
Swap The Maldives for Maddalena Island, Sardinia
La Maddalena in Sardinia offers the beachy beauty of The Maldives, only much more affordably. Photograph: FrancescoThe Maldives' postcard-perfect beaches, shallow warm waters and rich coral reefs are every sun-lover's dream. It's tricky to find a more practical dupe nearer to home, but if you can forgo the luxe feel and abundance of rare marine life, La Maddalena in Sardinia offers the beachy beauty of The Maldives, only much more affordably.
Situated off the northeast tip of Sardinia, it's more rugged than the nearby Smeralda Coast, famed for its glitz and glam, but just as beautiful. The neon-blue waters are so inviting, and its immaculate beaches are powder-soft under your toes. The island is a former US naval base and it recently set up its tourism amenities, so if you don't mind your idyllic beaches with a rustic feel, La Maddalena is an ideal dupe.
Getting there:
Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Olbia Costa Smeralda from €78. Maddalena Island is a ferry ride from there.
Where to stay:
Hotel Excelsior
(doubles from €125) is a traditionally-styled, comfy four-star on the coast, with a terrace to enjoy cocktails.
Prices were correct at the time of publication but are subject to change.