Magnificent mountains, beautiful beaches and elegant cities

The Guardian

02-05-2025

Tucked up against Spain's lush northern coastline, Cantabria is a gloriously unsung region. Atlantic waters lap a coastline of rugged cliffs and beaches of creamy sands, while the emerald countryside rises sharply in the south-west to become the serrated Picos de Europa mountain range.
At the heart of this so-called 'green coast' is the elegant city of Santander, presiding over neighbouring medieval towns, quiet fishing villages, and a surprising Gaudí masterpiece. And inland, green valleys and sheer limestone peaks are laced with walking routes and flecked with stone villages hunched down against the elements.
Cantabria is also compact, meaning you can combine beach and mountains, hiking and history all in one trip. And the diverse scenery makes for incredible cuisine, too – from fresh seafood to stout cheeses, hearty stews, and locally raised beef.
Kick off your Cantabrian adventure in Santander, a longtime favourite of Spanish royalty and the perfect base for exploring the region's 136 miles of coastline. It has a distinctly aristocratic air, with grand mansions, patio restaurants and Alfonso XIII's summer residence, Palacio de la Magdalena.
Known as the 'bride of the sea', Santander's refined old town contrasts with its bustling fishing district and surprising contemporary quarter, crowned by the Renzo Piano-designed Centro Botín cultural space.
The Centro Botín, Santander's seaside cultural space. Photograph: Stéphane Aboudaram
While Santander has its own crescents of golden sand, it's worth exploring the rest of the Cantabrian coast. Head east and you'll find Noja, just 25 miles away, a quaint town set between the sea and mountains, where 17th-century villas and mansions overlook two sandy beaches. Farther on is Castro Urdiales, once a Roman settlement and characterised by its medieval old town.
Or you can head west, where Santillana del Mar sits just 18 miles away from Santander, revelling in its title as one of Spain's most beautiful towns. Considered a national monument for its medieval architecture, it's also notable for the nearby Altamira caves, famed for their prehistoric cave art – one of the finest examples in the world. You can find out more about the 14,000-year-old paintings at the museum.
The stunning Gaudí-designed El Capricho
Just 9 miles west, you'll find Comillas, a pretty coastal town of cobbled streets, tree-dotted squares and modernist architecture. Make a beeline for El Capricho, a Gaudí-designed summer house seemingly plucked straight from the pages of a fairytale. Then, just 6 miles on, the picturesque fishing village of San Vicente de la Barquera features serene beaches and the breathtaking backdrop of the snow-dusted peaks of the Picos de Europa.
If you're looking to explore at a slower pace, follow a section of the Northern Way, one of the routes that make up the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, which links together many of these coastal towns and villages.
Head inland and you'll discover the rugged peaks and vibrant valleys of the Picos de Europa, Spain's first national park. You can hike through the park at your own pace, with more than 30 self-guided walks, dipping into villages where local life seems perennially unchanged. This is the only national park in Spain that is inhabited, and its cultural heritage is as important as the nearly 2,000 species of plants and the wildlife that ranges from roe deer and grouse to Egyptian vultures, golden eagles and the Iberian wolf.
You don't have to be an expert hiker to experience the mountains at their best. You can reach a height of almost 2,000 metres in just four minutes via the Fuente Dé cable car. From there, the impressive Picos crags provide an exhilarating backdrop for leisurely hikes between villages.
The pretty medieval town of Potes, set in the mountain's foothills and criss-crossed by waterways, makes an excellent base for mountain exploration.
Whether you're hiking or cycling, surfing the coast, or simply strolling around medieval towns, you're sure to work up quite the appetite. Luckily, Cantabria's landscapes have a lot to offer when it comes to inspiring ingredients.
On the coast, you can dine on spider crab and goose barnacles, king prawns, sweet langoustines, and fresh anchovies. Local favourites include sorropotún de bonito, a tuna stew cooked with onions, peppers, garlic and stale bread; baked sardines; parsley-rich hake in green sauce (merluza en salsa verde); and rabas (fried squid).
In the mountains, meats and cheeses take centre stage. Look out for wheels of smoky quesucos de Liebana or Picón Bejes-Tresviso. Tudanca cattle is famed for its flavourful meat, and you'll also find game, such as wild boar and venison. For pork, try cocido montañés, a meaty feast consisting of chorizo, pork ribs, beans, potatoes and leafy greens, or cocido lebaniego de Potes, a stew made with chorizo, chickpeas and cabbage.
Delicious authentic Cantabrian food includes cheeses such as Picón Bejes-Tresviso and, on the coast, freshly-caught sardines. Photographs: Alamy; Stocksy United
Cantabria's distinctive cuisine is a reflection of the varied landscapes that define this underrated region. And its compact size means you can combine Atlantic surf and ancient pilgrimage routes, mountain wildlife experiences and rich culture all in one trip.
With regular ferries from both Plymouth and Portsmouth to Santander, it's easy to reach Cantabria. It means you can take your car and pack it up with bikes, hiking gear and even the family dog for your trip. And with comfortable cabins and great facilities, the holiday begins when you step aboard.
Brittany Ferries' ships sail the route from Plymouth to Santander, with just one night aboard flagship ferry Pont-Aven. Restaurant choices range from self-service to fine dining Le Flora, serving langoustines, smoked salmon and champagne. Guests can also enjoy the choice of two cinemas, a video games room, swimming pool and leisure area.
There are also two sailings a week from Portsmouth, both across two nights. Restaurants and bars serve up snacks and Spanish cuisine. Relax on the sundeck, shop the boutique, and let the little ones have fun in the play areas. The cabins on these ships have the largest and most comfortable beds in the fleet.
From country cottages to beachfront hotels, there's an impressive range of package holidays available to book through Brittany Ferries.
Find out more about travelling with Brittany Ferries