'I felt like one of those 'Real Housewives of Cape Town' being lavishly fed by a private chef'

IOL News

02-06-2025

Bar area at Heirloom restaurant.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
Do you want a dining experience that feels like a gentle brush with luxury and elegance, without it being intimidating? I have found the perfect spot for you in Cape Town.
Now hear me out. Yes, it may be in the exclusive, wonderful and newly re-opened and revamped Cape Grace Hotel, yet the elegant restaurant in the hotel - Heirloom - while indeed a classy spot, is not a stiff-upper-lip type of place
It is more 'put on your favourite silk dress' rather than 'borrow your aunt's inherited pearls".
The name Heirloom, when you look up the meaning, means a valuable object that has belonged to a family for several generations, like those pearls you chose not to wear.
So expect a slight sense of "Old Money", a bit of "The Gatsby" and all-glamour, but also a place where you can enjoy a five-course meal with relish, which is exactly what I did when I was invited to attend recently.
From the moment you step in, the vibe strikes you: it is a sophisticated modern cruise with dark woods, deep tones and soft lighting that balances moodiness with class.
There are stunning views it being on the west quay of the V&A Waterfront: think the more quieter side of the docks, yachts, sea... but once the food arrives, you will probably forget the views because the art of the food will be all you can focus on.
The standout centre bar, surrounded by sleek glass and pockets of greenery, brings a brightness and modern edge that lifts the whole atmosphere. It's intimate, stylish and perfect for the kind of night where you want to treat yourself (and maybe someone special too).
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The elegant yet approachable Heirloom restaurant.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
Each course was introduced with a smile and a story, adding just the right amount of theatre to the evening. It had that good old-school charm, where hospitality wasn't about flair but about making you feel looked after.
Now, this wasn't your classic candlelit date night. It was before our wedding - a time of lists, budgets and final fittings but this evening became something unexpectedly meaningful.
We were seated with other reviewers, which could've been awkward, but ended up being one of the highlights.
The conversations flowed as easily as the wine, and before long, strangers became warm tablemates who were sharing marriage advice and baby wishes (my baby is due in a few weeks). They toasted our upcoming wedding, spoke about parenting with a wink, and it felt like a small celebration with kind strangers.
The invite from the hotel came at just the right time. We were reaching the final stages of our simple wedding planning, and this felt like a chance to breathe, to enjoy.
My partner and I, now my husband, are mostly home-cooked meals type of people who dabble in restaurants during the holiday season or the odd date night, so this experience felt special.
The menu was playful and thoughtful, a feast for the eyes with all the colour I crave on a plate because yes, honey, I eat with my eyes first. Each course delivered flavours as bold and vibrant as they looked, and my baby was dancing in my belly.
While I had to pass on the wine pairings (tragic, I know), I can still confidently say that the food alone made this experience worth every forkful. And look, I'm not exactly adventurous when it comes to food. I like what I like.
But this menu gently nudged me out of my comfort zone, and it was an absolute treat to explore flavour without fear.
Tuna, served on toasted brioche with roasted black garlic aioli, apple jelly, and crispy apple sticks.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
Each dish was created in reverse, starting with a limited-release or vintage Waterford wine and crafting the meal to match. That's where the magic happens.
'Our approach allows us to create a harmonious experience,' says sommelier Alvezo Abrahams.
'By letting the wines guide the dishes, guests can appreciate how each wine influences the flavours of the ingredients. It becomes more than just a meal; it is about the story conveyed through taste."
The evening opened with the Blanc de Blanc Cap Classique 2018 paired with tuna, served on toasted brioche with roasted black garlic aioli, apple jelly, and crispy apple sticks.
Now, I might not have sipped the wine, but I could still appreciate the balance in this dish. That caviar-textured apple jelly? I felt like a "Real Housewife" being fed by a private chef - it was elegant, playful and unique.
This was the first time I had anything remotely close to caviar, and it was apple jelly? How insane. I don't regret trying new things.
Pork belly glazed in white wine orange beurre blanc.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
Then came the Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2024 with rainbow trout, pepper salsa, avo purée, and a garlic crumble. Light, fresh, and full of layers.
It was the kind of dish that made me wonder why I don't eat more trout. Probably because it's rarely done this well.
The third course is a personal favourite: the Chardonnay 2015 with pork belly glazed in white wine, orange beurre blanc. Now listen, pork belly is my weakness.
Crispy on the outside, melt-in-the-mouth inside, and that citrusy note from the beurre blanc sealed the deal. I don't know what it is, but pork and fruit just work – if you know how to do it right.
Beef tongue, fillet, salted candied tomatoes, and cauliflower purée on a potato fondant with a rich jus.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
Then came the heavyweight: a beef course paired with a choice between the Jem 2017 Red Blend or the Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2016.
The dish included beef tongue, fillet, salted candied tomatoes and cauliflower purée on a potato fondant with a rich jus.
Now, this plate was generous, no lie. But once I took that first bite, there was no turning back. The meat was tender, the sides were refined yet comforting, and it felt like Sunday roast had gone to culinary school.
And just when I thought I was done, dessert arrived like a gentle hug.
Poached pear, chocolate sorbet, and pistachio mousse.
Image: Bernelee Vollmer
The Heatherleigh NV Dessert Wine was served with poached pear, chocolate sorbet, and pistachio mousse. Light yet indulgent, and the perfect sweet ending to such a well-paced meal.
The Heirloom x Waterford pairing is a beautifully considered experience. The ingredients are locally sourced and seasonal, the wines are rare, and the setting is made for memories.
This is for people who appreciate slow dining, romantic moments and storytelling through food, whether you're a well-heeled wine lover, a couple celebrating something special, or just two tired parents looking to feel fancy for a night.
It's beautifully curated, warm without being fussy, and ideal for stepping outside your usual dining comfort zone – even if you're pregnant and skipping the wine!
The Waterford wine pairing dinners are a splurge, yes, but for a five-course experience and warm hospitality, it's the kind that feels worth it. Think celebration, not casual tequila Tuesday.
Prices range from R230 to R800 depending on what you're indulging in, from appetisers to desserts. And for the five-course wine pairing, you will need R1 950.
It's a splurge, yes, but one that doesn't feel over the top. Just right for when you want to feel a little bit posh.
* Renowned Wesli Jacobs is the new chef at Heirloom.
RATING
BERNELEE GIVES HEIRLOOM A ★★★★
This is a five-course journey worth taking, especially if you love attention to detail and food that tells a story.
Overall 4. ★★★★ (Very good)
Food: Delicious, well-prepared with some standout dishes.
Service: Attentive, friendly and professional.
Ambiance: Pleasant, well-designed and comfortable.
Value: Worth the price; good quality for cost.