
How to turn the whole carrot, from leaf to root, into a Moroccan-spiced stew – recipe
Today's warming recipe makes a hero of the whole carrot from root to leaf, and sits somewhere between a roast and a stew. The lush green tops are turned into a punchy chermoula that is stirred into the sauce and used as a garnish.
One image has stayed with me ever since a journey through a small Moroccan village near Taghazout, just west of Marrakech, all of 12 years ago. Bright orange carrots lay in vast heaps on contrasting blue tarpaulin spread across the ground. I was especially struck by how the vast majority of each pile was green with the feathery foliage that was still attached to the roots we love. The carrot is so often robbed of its crowning glory before it reaches the supermarket shelf, but when you find a bunch with those vibrant tops intact, you're getting two ingredients for the price of one. Those super-nutritious greens can be stirred into stews, tossed with other leaves, or blended into bright green sauces such as a pesto today's punchy chermoula, a piquant North African herb sauce that adds brightness and depth to this warming stew.
Serves 4-6
For the spiced carrots
1 bunch carrots (about 600g), with foliage attached
650g new potatoes, halved
2 red or white onions, peeled and cut into thin wedges
4–5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Juice and finely grated zest of ½ organic unwaxed lemon
6 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
5 tsp ras el hanout, or your own blend featuring cinnamon, turmeric, cumin, coriander, paprika and/or ginger
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
2 x 400g tins chickpeas, including their liquid (or 1 x 550g jar)
50g toasted chopped almonds, or walnuts or hazelnuts
Cooked couscous, or barley or quinoa, to serve
Yoghurt, to serve
For the chermoula
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp sea salt
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 red chilli, diced, or 1–2 tsp cayenne pepper
60g carrot tops (stalks and leaves)
Juice and finely grated zest of ½ organic unwaxed lemon, or 1 tbsp chopped preserved lemon
100ml extra-virgin olive oil
Heat the oven to 190C (fan). Separate the carrot tops from the roots. Wash both thoroughly and set the tops aside for the chermoula. Put the carrots (about 450g), whole or halved if thick, 650g new potatoes and two red or white onions (cut into wedges) on a large tin. Drizzle with olive oil, cover with parchment and roast. After 35 minutes, remove the parchment and cook for another 15–25 minutes, until charred and tender. Mix in the lemon zest and juice (or the chopped preserved lemon), six lightly crushed garlic cloves and five teaspoons of ras el hanout (or your own blend) and roast for 10 more minutes. Stir in any leftover carrot tops (roughly chopped), the chopped tomatoes and the undrained chickpeas and roast for a final 15 minutes, until hot and bubbling.
Meanwhile, make the chermoula: toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a dry pan, then grind to a powder. Add the paprika, sea salt, garlic and diced red chilli, pound to a rough paste, then smash in 60g chopped carrot tops. Mix in the lemon juice and zest and extra-virgin olive oil, then season to taste.
Dot spoonfuls of chermoula on the carrots in the tray, scatter over the crushed nuts and a few extra sprigs of carrot tops, and serve with couscous and yoghurt on the side.

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Daily Mail
16 hours ago
- Daily Mail
From brownies to Biscoff rocky road – 8 simple and delicious one-tin bakes
COFFEE CHEESECAKE BROWNIES These cheesecake brownies strike a fine balance. The coffee manages to give a mocha vibe, with the creamy cheesecake element providing the means of marbling. SERVES 24 260g salted butter, roughly cubed, plus extra for greasing 475g dark chocolate, broken into pieces 2 tbsp instant coffee 4 eggs, beaten 330g soft light brown sugar 70g self-raising flour 1 tsp flaky sea salt For the cheesecake 1 tbsp instant coffee 150g full-fat cream cheese 50g caster sugar 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour 1 Preheat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. 2 Melt the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (if you prefer, you can do this in short bursts in the microwave, stirring between each one). Mix to form a smooth sauce, then add the instant coffee, stir through and set aside to cool. 3 Put the eggs and sugar in a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk until thick and pale in colour (about 3-4 minutes; 8-10 minutes by hand). Pour in the butter and chocolate mixture and whisk until just combined, then sift in the flour and fold through. Stir in the salt, then spoon the batter into the prepared tray. 4 Now prepare the cheesecake mixture. In a separate bowl, add 1½ tablespoons of boiling water to the instant coffee and stir to dissolve. Add the cream cheese, sugar, egg and flour, and use a balloon whisk to gently beat it all together. Using the back of a tablespoon, make dents in the brownie mixture, and spoon the cheesecake mixture into the indents. Swirl through the brownie mixture with a skewer for a marbled effect. 5 Bake for 25 minutes, or until the top has a crust, while only a slight wobble remains in the middle. Leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the fridge for a few hours or overnight before slicing and serving. This will ensure very fudgy brownies. VANILLA SPRINKLE CAKE This cake gives you licence to raid the sprinkle drawer (or is it just me who has one?). A simple vanilla sponge with a nice thick coating of icing, this bake will transport you back to the days of school dinners, complete with a soaking of custard. SERVES 12-18 250g salted butter, room temperature, plus extra for greasing 250g caster sugar 5 eggs, beaten 60ml whole milk 2½ tsp vanilla extract 250g self-raising flour 1 tsp fine salt custard, to serve (optional) For the topping 280g icing sugar 50g sprinkles 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. 2 Put the butter and sugar into a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk together until light and fluffy. In a jug, mix together the eggs, milk and vanilla extract, then slowly pour this into the butter and sugar mixture, whisking continuously. Once combined, sift in the flour and salt and fold through. 3 Spoon into the prepared baking tray and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool. 4 For the icing, sift the sugar into a bowl and add 2-3 tablespoons of water, a little at a time, to make a pourable consistency. Spread the icing on the sponge, then scatter the sprinkles. Leave to firm up for an hour then serve – with custard, if you like. PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE Full. Retro. Vibes! This sponge was my gateway to cake-baking – the simplest batter, piled on top of syrup, pineapple and (of course) glacé cherries. I love to serve this cake warm, particularly when you get an edge where the syrup has started to caramelise and tastes more like toffee. SERVES 18 300g unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 2 x 432g cans of pineapple rings, drained 230g golden syrup 100g glacé cherries (about 12) 300g golden caster sugar 6 eggs, beaten 300g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp fine salt 3 tbsp whole milk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste cream, to serve (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. Arrange the pineapple rings on a plate spread with paper towels and leave them to dry a little. 2 Pour the golden syrup into the prepared baking tray, then put it in the oven for 2 minutes so it starts to melt and spreads out evenly. 3 Remove from the oven and arrange as many of the pineapple rings as possible in the base of the baking tray (you should be able to fit 4 along and 3 down). Break up a couple of the leftover rings to fill any gaps; you might end up with a couple spare. Place a glacé cherry in the middle of each complete pineapple ring. Set aside. 4 Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk together until light and fluffy. Slowly add the eggs, whisking continuously. Once incorporated, sift in the flour, baking powder and salt and fold in, then add the milk and vanilla bean paste and mix to combine. 5 Spoon the batter over the top of the pineapples in the tray and bake for 45-50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. 6 Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out on to a wire rack. Delicious eaten warm or cold – with a drizzle of cream, if you like. PEACH MELBA CAKE This cake is as beautiful as it is delicious. Fresh, juicy peaches (or nectarines) and plump, seasonal raspberries come together to create a sponge that tastes exactly like summer. SERVES 18 300g salted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 300g golden caster sugar 6 eggs, beaten 250g self-raising flour 75g ground almonds 3 peaches, 2 stoned and chopped into 1cm dice, 1 stoned and sliced 200g raspberries For the glaze 3 tbsp peach or apricot conserve 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. 2 Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk until light and fluffy. Slowly add the eggs, sifting in 2 tablespoons of the flour if the mixture starts to split. Once combined, sift in the remaining flour and add the ground almonds, then fold through until incorporated. Carefully fold in the chopped peaches. 3 Spoon half the batter into the prepared baking tray, then scatter half the raspberries on top, pushing them down gently into the mixture. Top with the remaining cake batter, followed by the rest of the raspberries, again pushing them gently into the mixture. Arrange the peach slices on top, pushing them gently into the mixture. 4 Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Leave to cool to room temperature. 5 For the glaze, put the conserve in a small saucepan over a low heat and add 2 teaspoons of water, stirring until combined (this may be done in a bowl in the microwave). You can pass the glaze through a sieve to get rid of any chunks, if you like. Brush the glaze over the cake. Leave to cool completely before serving. BISCOFF ROCKY ROAD I truly think Biscoff is one of the best things since sliced bread. Combined with white chocolate it's utterly magical – and this is a really worthwhile upgrade on traditional rocky road. It also lasts up to a week stored in an airtight container in the fridge. SERVES 24 75g salted butter, plus extra for greasing 500g white chocolate, broken into pieces 400g speculoos biscuits such as Biscoff, broken up into pieces 600g smooth biscuit spread, such as Biscoff, melted 100g dried cherries, roughly chopped 125g mini marshmallows 1 Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. 2 Melt the white chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir until it has all melted together and is smooth (if you prefer, you can do this in short bursts in the microwave, stirring between each one). 3 Meanwhile, put the Biscoff biscuits into a large bowl and use the end of a rolling pin to break into different-shaped pieces so that you have some that are coin-sized and others that are smaller and more crumb-like. 4 Stir 150g of the melted Biscoff spread into the white chocolate mixture, then stir again to combine. Pour this mixture over the crushed biscuits and stir to combine completely. Add the dried cherries and marshmallows and stir again. Transfer this mixture to the prepared tray, spreading it out with the back of a spoon. Spread the remaining melted Biscoff over the top in a thin layer. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before slicing and serving. STRAWBERRY AND WHITE CHOCOLATE CAKE This gorgeous summery cake tastes absolutely amazing with sweet and ripe strawberries in season. The melted white chocolate gives a slight fudginess, a bit like a blondie. You're welcome. SERVES 18 250g salted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 200g white chocolate, broken into pieces 200g caster sugar 2 egg whites 3 eggs 150g soured cream 2 tsp vanilla-bean paste 250g self-raising flour 400g strawberries, hulled and diced into rough 1cm chunks For the topping 200g white chocolate, broken into pieces 140g cream cheese 70g salted butter, at room temperature 300g icing sugar 5 strawberries, sliced 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20 × 30cm baking tray. 2 Melt the chocolate in short bursts in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (you can also do this in short bursts in the microwave, if you prefer, stirring between each one). Once melted, set aside to cool slightly. 3 Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk until fluffy and pale, then add the egg whites and continue to whisk for a few more minutes, until fully incorporated. 4 In a separate bowl or jug, combine the 3 eggs with the soured cream and vanilla-bean paste. Add this to the mixture in the bowl or stand mixer, scraping down the sides of the bowl, and whisk to combine. Don't worry if it curdles slightly. Whisking continuously, pour in the melted chocolate. Once incorporated, sift in the flour and fold it through, then fold through the strawberries. Transfer the batter into the prepared baking tray and bake for 40-45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Leave the cake to cool completely. 5 Meanwhile, prepare the topping. Melt the chocolate as before, then set aside to cool slightly. Combine the cream cheese and butter in a bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, then sift in the icing sugar and whisk until smooth. Slowly pour in the chocolate and give it a final whisk. Spread the topping over the cooled cake and scatter the sliced strawberries to decorate. RHUBARB AND GINGER CAKE Using three different types of ginger, this bake has layers of warmth, all of which complement the tartness of the rhubarb. I summer use regular rhubarb, but in the winter months, use the more tender forced rhubarb for wonderful pops of pink. SERVES 18 250g salted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 250g soft light brown sugar 5 eggs, beaten 250g self-raising flour 1 tsp ground ginger 400g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into rough 1cm chunks 6 stem ginger balls in syrup, finely chopped, plus 5 tbsp of the syrup 40g crystallised ginger, roughly chopped cream, to serve (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20 × 30cm baking tray. 2 Put the butter and sugar into a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk together until light and fluffy. Slowly add the eggs, scraping down the sides of the bowl to make sure all the ingredients are incorporated. Sift in the flour, then add the ground ginger, rhubarb and chopped stem ginger, along with 2 tablespoons of the syrup, and fold through. Spoon into the prepared baking tray. 3 Bake for 40-50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Leave to cool, then brush with the remaining 3 tablespoons of ginger syrup. Scatter with the crystallised ginger before slicing and serving with cream, if you like. SALTED CARAMEL AND ALMOND CHEESECAKE The crushed amaretti dotted in the digestive base make this almondy from the bottom up. With a portion of the salted caramel running through the cream cheese filling, and the rest drizzled on top, it's so simple but so decadent. SERVES 20-24 For the base 200g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 200g digestive biscuits 300g amaretti biscuits For the filling 400ml double cream 560g full-fat cream cheese 200g caster sugar ½ tsp almond extract 260g jarred salted caramel 1 Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm × 30cm baking tray. 2 To make the base, place the biscuits into a sealable plastic food bag and bash with a rolling pin until finely crushed. (Alternatively, blitz the digestive biscuits in a food processor to form a crumb.) Add the amaretti biscuits and continue to bash or pulse until they are broken down, but don't overmix or they will start to become greasy. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the melted butter, then transfer the mixture to the prepared tray, pushing it down with the back of a spoon to create a nice compact base. Refrigerate while you make the filling. 3 In a mixing bowl, whisk the cream to soft peaks using a handheld mixer. In a separate mixing bowl, combine the cream cheese, sugar, almond extract and half of the salted caramel, and mix well with the handheld mixer. Fold through the cream, then smooth the mixture on to the biscuit base. 4 Gently melt the remaining salted caramel in a saucepan over a low heat, then spoon it on to the cream cheese base. Drag a skewer through the caramel to make a swirly pattern, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours before slicing and serving. NOW BUY THE BOOK Our recipes are from Foolproof Traybakes by Katie Marshall, with photographs by Rita Platts (Quadrille, £14). To order a copy for £11.90 until 13 July, go to or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25.


The Guardian
a day ago
- The Guardian
Get a sharp knife, season properly and don't do too much at once: how to start cooking
Food is more than just nutrition: it can be joyful, social and exciting. But the act of preparing it can feel awfully daunting. Many beginner cooks suffer from a fear of failure, a lack of foundational knowledge and a poor understanding of how long it actually takes to prepare a dish, says Sam Nasserian, founder and CEO of Cozymeal, a culinary services company. But 'once people learn the basics and try a few recipes, they're surprised by how easy and fun cooking can be', he says. And there are lots of benefits to cooking at home. Namely: it tends to be healthier and cheaper than eating out or ordering in. So how does one start cooking? We asked experts. Not as much as you think. It's easy to get overwhelmed by all the elaborate cooking gadgets out there, but experts agree you really only need a few key tools and ingredients to prepare most dishes. Caroline Chambers, author of a book and Substack both called What to Cook When You Don't Feel Like Cooking, says you can go far with just 'a chef's knife, a cutting board, a good nonstick pan, a few rimmed baking sheets, and a few silicone spatulas'. Nasserian also suggests a medium-sized oven-safe skillet, a small lidded saucepan, measuring cups and spoons, a colander and some storage containers for leftovers. You don't have to go for the fanciest, most expensive gear either, says Sohla El-Waylly, author of the cookbook Start Here. When it comes to a knife, for example, 'you just need a sharp knife that you feel comfortable sharpening', she says. 'That might be the cheapest knife you pick up from Walmart.' Then, if you feel inspired later, you can level up. Quality can make a big difference when it comes to basic spices and pantry staples, though. El-Waylly recommends stocking up on good kosher salt, like Diamond Crystal – 'It's very fluffy, light and forgiving when you first start cooking,' she says – and fresh black pepper that you crack yourself, either with a knife or a pepper mill. 'I know it sounds boring, but it's the basics where you can really screw yourself up right off the bat,' El-Waylly says. Other useful ingredients she recommends keeping on hand are olive oil, a neutral oil (like canola oil or avocado oil) for high temperature cooking, a couple of vinegars, bags of rice and some beans. There is a popular idea that cooking is intuitive. It might be for some, but intuition usually only comes after lots of practice. 'Cooking is a learned skill, just like riding a bike or learning to read,' says Chambers. 'If your mother or some other authority figure in your life didn't teach you the fundamentals, how should you be expected to have acquired them?' The first thing Chambers recommends is enrolling in or watching a knife skills class (there are free ones online). 'Knife skills are the fundamental skill in cooking, and if you don't have a basic knowledge of them, you're always going to feel frustrated and slow in the kitchen,' she says. More from How to start: How to start meditating How to start weightlifting How to start budgeting How to start running Nasserian is keen on knife skills too, including learning a safe knife grip. Another important step is developing good cooking habits, like setting up ingredients before you turn on the stove – also known as 'mise en place'. Properly seasoning food is where a lot of beginners slip up, Nassierian says, especially by 'under-seasoning early and over-salting later'. 'You season throughout the cooking process, not just at the end,' says El-Waylly. 'Every time you add something to the pan, add some salt.' Tasting the food as you cook is essential. This doesn't only help with seasoning, but also with learning how flavors develop, says El-Waylly. 'When you're working with spices and you taste something early on, you might feel like the spices taste like themselves and don't come together,' she says. 'But when you taste as it's cooking, you'll notice flavors blending and harmonizing.' Sign up to Well Actually Practical advice, expert insights and answers to your questions about how to live a good life after newsletter promotion For those who are learning how to cook, 'super low effort, super high reward recipes are essential', says Chambers. She says her tiny tomato pasta and taco salad recipes are especially popular among novice cooks. Nasserian also recommends trying recipes that will teach you core cooking skills: a one-pot lentil soup can teach you how to time sauteing and simmering; sheet pan chicken with vegetables, chopping and roasting; a three-egg omelet, heat control; and a vegetable stir-fry, knife work and sauce rations. 'Rotate through them for a couple of weeks, and you'll have the confidence to tackle almost any recipe,' Nasserin says. When you first try anything, you will inevitably make mistakes. But there are easy cooking gaffes to avoid. Don't overcrowd pans, says Nasserian (this can prevent browning and make ingredients soggy rather than crispy). And if you want to sear meat, make sure the skillet is hot enough before you drop it in (as in, very, very hot). Most of all, experts suggest starting off small and not biting off more than you can chew. 'TikTok makes it look really fun to cook an eight-part dinner party,' says Chambers. 'And it is fun! If you know how to cook.' El-Waylly says it's important to be realistic about timing. 'A lot of recipes will have a cook time of 45 minutes,' she says. 'But if you're starting out, give yourself three hours.' And if you're fretting about having people over for a meal, don't worry – the pros do it too. 'I still get nervous every time I cook for somebody. I don't think that ever goes away, and that's fine,' says El-Waylly. 'It means you care.'


The Guardian
3 days ago
- The Guardian
Why is so much of life spent clearing up?
Gardening, I've realised, is easy. It's clearing up afterwards that takes all the effort. This is true of many things, from cooking to relationships. Doing them is one thing; sorting the mess out afterwards is another. Planting stuff is a doddle. Planting the right things in the right place is less straightforward. But both are easier than the clear-up. I've learned this the hard way, by working like an ox all day, only to leave the place looking as if a team of oxen has been driven through it. I had thought that pruning trees, fighting hedges, pulling up brambles and obsessively weeding counted as tidying. In this I was mistaken, because cutting, hacking and digging count as tidying only if you, well, tidy up after yourself. Leaving stricken branches and weeds where they lie creates more mess. Obvious really, but at some level I must have been thinking that all that browning vegetation would sort itself out by means of decay and decomposition. Or birds would take it away and build nests. Not so. A gardener friend came round, had a look, said he could see how much work I had done, but inquired as to why I'd left it looking such a mess. This was a fair question, to which I had no answer. He pointed at the path through it, covered in weeds, discarded and growing. 'If I were you,' he advised, sagely, 'I'd get the path nice and clear and everything will go from there.' I did, and he was right. With the pathway clear, the rest of the garden looked a lot better. It feels as if there's a maxim for life in there. I blame myself for my chaos – ye gods, you should see the state of the kitchen when I've finished my culinary magic. But I also blame gardening and cookery programmes. Advice on tidying up, or even merely the importance of it, isn't proffered; you rarely see the gardener with a broom or the chef with a cloth. If tidiness is next to godliness, then I am doomed. I'm determined to change my ways before it's too late. No longer do I venerate the topiarist; it's the poor devil clearing up all the clippings I most admire. The Welsh are on to something when they use 'tidy' to mean good or nice. Yes, that's right. Tidy, in fact. Adrian Chiles is a broadcaster, writer and Guardian columnist