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Projects Produced by Alia Bhatt, Payal Kapadia & Kani Kusruti In Busan's APM 2025 Line-up

Projects Produced by Alia Bhatt, Payal Kapadia & Kani Kusruti In Busan's APM 2025 Line-up

Yahoo3 days ago
Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) has annouced the 30 projects selected for this year's Asian Project Market, including two projects produced by high-profile Indian actresses.
The line-up includes Difficult Daughters, directed by Soni Razdan, which is being produced by Alia Bhatt and her sister Shaheen Bhatt, along with veteran Indian indie producer Alan McAlex (Santosh).
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Kani Kusruti, who starred in Cannes Palme d'Or winning film All We Imagine As Light, is teaming with the director of that film, Payal Kapadia, to produce The Last Of Them Plagues, directed by Kunjila Mascillamani. Kusruti attended BIFF last year as a jury member for the New Currents competition.
Elsewhere, the line-up includes several other filmmakers with ties to BIFF, including Indian director Pradip Kurbah, recipient of the 2019 Jiseok Award, with new project Moon; Bangladeshi filmmaker Biplob Sarkar, previously invited to BIFF New Currents and returning with LGBTQ+-themed The Magical Men; and Malaysia's Lau Kok Rui from the BIFF 2022 Asian Film Academy, who is presenting Wake Me up When the Mourning Ends, with Soi Cheang, Stefano Centini and Wong Kew Soon on board as producers.
The line-up also features five Chinese-language projects, with three from Taiwan focusing on female protagonists. Japan is represented by three projects from established directors Shiraishi Kazuya, Fujita Naoya and Zhang Yaoyuan, with stories revolving around the realities of foreign laborers, a reclusive woman's struggle for identity, and a multifaceted view of what Japanese youth face today.
Seven Korean projects have also been selected from both emerging and mid-career directors, including Gilddong from Park Riwoong, who won the New Currents Award at BIFF 2024 for The Land Of Morning Calm; Arrival Of Water from Jo Heeyoung; Dance Dance Revolution by director Choi Hana (More Than Family); and The Descent by director Kim Hyoeun following her BIFF 2024 invitation for Tango At Dawn.
Asian Project Market (APM) will be held for four days from September 20-23 during the 20th edition of the Asian Contents & Film Market at BEXCO.
ASIAN PROJECT MARKET 2025:
*Supported by ACF Script Development Fund
Arrival Of Water (Korea, Japan)Dir: Jo HeeyoungProd: Park Sejin Black Star Angel* (Armenia, US)Dir: Christine HaroutounianProd: Maxwell Schwartz, Christine Haroutounian Bodoi (Japan)Dir: Shiraishi KazuyaProd: Kii Muneyuki Buy My Car (Japan, China)Dir: Zhang YaoyuanProd: Ichiyama Shozo, Kunizane Mizue, Mo Zhulin Churching Of Women (Jordan)Dir: Darin SallamProd: Deema Azar, Ayah Jardaneh Dance Dance Revolution (Korea)Dir: Choi HanaProd: An Boyoung The Daughter (Hong Kong, China)Dir: Guan TianProd: Vivian Bao, Ding Ningyuan The Descent (Korea)Dir: Kim HyoeunProd: Park Hyunsuk Difficult Daughters (India)Dir: Soni RazdanProd: Alia Bhatt, Shaheen Bhatt, Alan Mcalex, Grishma Shah Disorder (Iraq, Germany)Dir: Shawkat Amin KorkiProd: Mehmet Aktas, Shohreh Golparian, Shawkat Amin Korki Flying Cows (Vietnam)Dir: Nguyen Pham Thanh DatProd: Nguyen Huu Thi Tuong Vi The Funeral March (Japan, China)Dir: Fujita NaoyaProd: Fujita Kanako, Shiina Yasushi, Zou Aiken, Zou Lin Gilddong (Korea, China)Dir: Park RiwoongProd: Yoon Minyoung Gochi (Korea)Dir: Yoon EunkyoungProd: Stanley Kwak Heaven Help Us!* (Philippines)Dir: Eve BaswelProd: John Torres, Jules Katanyag Lanka (The Fire) (India)Dir: Saurav RaiProd: Sudeepta Sadhukhan, Viraj Selot, Ankita Purkayastha The Last Of Them Plagues (India)Dir: Kunjila MascillamaniProd: Payal Kapadia, Jeo Baby, Kani Kusruti Lost And Cow (Thailand)Dir: Thapanee LoosuwanProd: Chonlasit Upanigkit, Somprasong Srikrajang The Magical Men (Bangladesh, Singapore, France, India)Dir: Biplob SarkarProd: Biplob Sarkar, Fran Borgia, Francois d'Artemare, Sankhajit Biswas Moon (India)Dir: Pradip KurbahProd: Pradip Kurbah New Life* (China)Dir: Li YingtongProd: Annie Song No Country For Old Men (Taiwan)Dir: An BonProd: Chen Pao-Ying Paradis Karaoke (Korea)Dir: Byun SungbinProd: Bong Suji Sama (Canada, Afghanistan)Dir: Brishkay AhmedProd: Brishkay Ahmed, Bonnie Do Silence Of The Looms (Bangladesh)Dir: Mirza Shabnam FerdousiProd: Rajib Mohajan Silent Cry (Korea)Dir: Jero YunProd: Jero Yun The Skull Oracle (Taiwan)Dir: Laha MebowProd: Eric Liang Zara Lin, Chen Yi Chen Snake In The Dreamscapes (Taiwan)Dir: Lou Yi-AnProd: Chen Wen Wen, Kao Chun Ting, Hsu Guo-Lun Stuck Like Babies (Kyrgyzstan)Dir: Dastan Zhapar RyskeldiProd: Veronica Rhyme, Aktan Ryskeldiev, Fernanda Renno Wake Me Up When The Mourning Ends (Malaysia, Hong Kong, Italy, Taiwan)Dir: Lau Kok RuiProd: Soi Cheang, Stefano Centini, Wong Kew Soon
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Promises Take Center Stage in Canara HSBC Life Insurance's New Campaign Featuring Jasprit Bumrah and Sanjana Ganesan
Promises Take Center Stage in Canara HSBC Life Insurance's New Campaign Featuring Jasprit Bumrah and Sanjana Ganesan

Yahoo

time7 hours ago

  • Yahoo

Promises Take Center Stage in Canara HSBC Life Insurance's New Campaign Featuring Jasprit Bumrah and Sanjana Ganesan

New Campaign Celebrates the Power of Promises in Life and Legacy NEW DELHI, July 24, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- Canara HSBC Life Insurance Company Limited ("Canara HSBC Life Insurance") today announced the launch of its new brand campaign featuring the real-life couple, cricket legend Jasprit Bumrah and media personality Sanjana Ganesan. The campaign reinforces the company's aim to feature as a trusted partner in fulfilling life's long-term promises and marks the next chapter in this partnership through a high-impact 360° marketing rollout. Rooted in the brand's philosophy of being a 'Promises ka Partner', the campaign features two engaging films that highlight deeply personal reflections between Jasprit and Sanjana. The campaign films portray promises not just as words, but as enduring commitments that shape families, futures, and legacies. In the TVC, Jasprit contemplates the fleeting nature of fame and how the value of personal commitments, particularly those made to a life partner, stay strong. Sanjana's presence in the narrative offers emotional balance and connection, underscoring the power of mutual support in long-term planning. Both narratives are anchored in authenticity, trust, and emotional foresight- values that align closely with Canara HSBC Life Insurance's aim in helping individuals plan and protect their futures. Speaking about the campaign, Mr. Rishi Mathur, Chief Marketing Officer and Chief Distribution Officer- Alternate Channels, Canara HSBC Life Insurance, said: "At Canara HSBC Life Insurance our aim is to engage audiences with stories that reflect real-life aspirations and move beyond transactional conversations around insurance. Jasprit and Sanjana bring this to life beautifully, not just as public figures, but as a couple navigating life's promises together. Through this campaign, we continue to strengthen our commitment to being a dependable partner in those promises." Jasprit Bumrah, while commenting on the campaign launch, said, "Canara HSBC Life Insurance's philosophy of being a 'Promises ka Partner' resonates with me on a personal level. In both cricket and life, it's the long-term commitments, ones made quietly and upheld consistently, that truly define you. The films reflect this idea, showing how promises made to loved ones are not just emotional in nature, but foundational to a future that is secure. It's a message I believe in deeply." Shoojit Sircar, Director of the brand films, said, "It was really great to work with Jasprit and Sanjana, it was lovely to bring out a side of their relationship, their partnership which hasn't been seen before. I think with these films we were able to showcase the brand promise in a very simple and charming way. What made this possible was the brand's clarity and their trust in the process. Working with Canara HSBC Life Insurance & Pravis felt less like a usual campaign and more like a lovely partnership." Targeted at young couples, modern families, and financially aware individuals, the campaign is built around insurance as a tool for empowerment rather than fear. It will be rolled out across TV, digital, social media, and other platforms as part of a multi-touchpoint strategy. The creative team behind the campaign is Gurgaon based, PRAVIS consulting. Click here to watch the film: YouTube: Instagram: LinkedIn: About Canara HSBC Life Insurance: Incorporated in 2007, Canara HSBC Life Insurance Company Limited is promoted by Canara Bank and HSBC Insurance (Asia Pacific) Holdings Limited. Punjab National Bank is also a shareholder of the Company. As a bancassurance led insurance company with its corporate office at Gurugram, Haryana and more than 100 branch offices as of March 2025, pan India, Canara HSBC Life brings together the trust and market knowledge of public and private banks. For more than 17 years now, the Company sells and services customers through multiple channels and well diversified network of Canara Bank and the Indian branch of the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Limited in multiple cities across the country. The Company has a vast portfolio of life insurance solutions and offers various products across individual and group space comprising of life, health, term plans, retirement solutions, credit life and employee benefit segments through partner banks, digital, and direct field force. With an aim to provide simpler insurance and faster claim process, the Company intends to keep the promises of their customers alive with their 'Promises Ka Partner' philosophy. Canara HSBC Life Insurance Company Limited is proposing, subject to receipt of requisite approvals, market conditions and other considerations, to make an initial public offering of its equity shares and has filed a draft red herring prospectus dated April 28, 2025 ("DRHP") with the Securities and Exchange Board of India ("SEBI"). The DRHP is available on the website of the Company at the SEBI at the website of National Stock Exchange of India Limited at and the website of BSE Limited at and the respective websites of the Lead Managers at and Investors should note that investment in equity shares involves a high degree of risk. For details, potential investors should refer to the RHP which may be filed with the Registrar of Companies, Delhi and Haryana at New Delhi, in the future, including the section titled "Risk Factors". Potential investors should not rely on the DRHP filed with the SEBI, but should instead rely only on the RHP, in making any investment decision. The equity shares proposed to be offered in the initial public offering may not be offered or sold in the United States except pursuant to an exemption from, or in transactions not subject to, the registration requirements of the U.S. Securities Act of 1933, as amended. There will be no public offer of securities in the United States. Photo: View original content to download multimedia:

India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly
India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly

CNN

time11 hours ago

  • CNN

India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly

When Prada sent several pairs of brown sandals with distinctive toe rings and intricate stitching down its menswear runway in Milan last month, observers were quick to point out their resemblance to a centuries-old piece of Indian heritage. The storied Italian fashion house may have presented the shoes as a new luxury creation, but many in India simply saw a pair of Kolhapuri chappals — traditional hand-crafted sandals with roots stretching back to the 12th or 13th century. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind the shoes, which had earlier been described by the brand simply as 'leather flat sandals,' according to the Guardian, sparked fierce and ongoing debate over cultural appropriation. Critics accused the label of erasing the legacy of Indian artisans, with voices across social media calling out what they saw as blatant design theft. Within a week, Prada had acknowledged in a letter to an Indian trade group that the sandals in its men's Spring-Summer 2026 collection were indeed 'inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' In a statement to CNN, the brand said it has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design.' Prada later added that it had met artisanal footwear manufacturers in India 'to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration.' Prada's readiness to confront the controversy could be a reflection of the fashion industry's growing interest in India's luxury consumers — and a reluctance to anger them. But the episode also epitomizes how Western labels have often struggled to meaningfully engage with the country's crafts and culture. India's luxury market is on a dramatic ascent, estimated to expand from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028 — a rate that would likely outpace most of the world's major luxury markets, according to global consulting firm Kearney. This projected growth is fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers. But today's Indian luxury consumer is 'no longer a singular archetype,' according to the celebrated Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta. 'We're seeing a beautifully diverse audience, from second-gen industrialist families to first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists and global citizens — who are all looking for something deeper than just a logo,' he said in an email. Major brands have been investing heavily in response. Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Valentino are among the fashion houses that have opened flagship stores in Mumbai or Delhi in the last three years. Others have collaborated with Indian labels or creatives on designs intended to speak more authentically to local audiences. Some of these brands are 'adapting beautifully,' Gupta said, but the 'real disconnect happens when brands view India as a commercial opportunity rather than a cultural dialogue,' he added. 'The Indian buyer wants to feel seen. It's no longer enough to just open a flagship in Mumbai, you need to speak the emotional and visual language of the market.' Indian inspiration is as essential to Western fashion as pajamas and Madras plaid. But accusations of cultural appropriation have intensified in recent years due to the growth of internet access in the country, the rise of social media platforms and a surging sense of cultural pride. 'A lot of Indian people, including designers and artisans, are aware of their rights,' said Toolika Gupta (no relation), director at the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design (IICD) in Jaipur, in an email, adding: 'They want acknowledgement of their legacy.' In 2019, fashion house Gucci sparked controversy with its 'Indy Full Turban,' sold for $790 on Nordstrom's website. The blue headpiece closely resembled the traditional Sikh turban, prompting backlash from Sikh communities in India and elsewhere. It was eventually removed from the website, with Nordstrom quickly apologizing amid the backlash. Just this year, the clothing company Reformation was criticized for selling a blouse, skirt and scarf that reminded many South Asians of the lehenga, an Indian garment consisting of a long skirt, top and a dupatta (scarf), a staple of Indian fashion for centuries and typically draped across a woman's chest. Some took issue with Reformation's lack of acknowledgement for the garment. One TikTok user joked: 'My girl is about to go strut the streets of India… Give credit where credit is due, this is literally a lehenga with a dupatta.' She also noted that the pastel-colored blouse, skirt and scarf were strikingly similar to lehengas worn by Bollywood celebrities in the early 2000s. In a statement to The Washington Post, Reformation said the design in question was inspired by a 1990s-era John Galliano gown and scarf set owned by the model Devon Lee Carlson, with whom it collaborated on the collection. just my thoughts on these pieces from the ref x devon collab #greenscreen #reformation #browngirl #browngirltiktok #lehenga #dupatta #devonlee #fashion #springfashion #indianoutfits #southasian #southasianfashion #jhumkas #ibizaoutfits #scarves H&M, meanwhile, recently came under fire for a sleeveless sheer 'long camisole' top and trouser set that many social media users likened to the salwar kameez, a traditional Indian tunic and pant. In a statement to CNN, H&M said the design took 'inspiration from current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces, as well as various plays on transparency and movement.' It's not just labels that have sparked controversy. Frustration spilled onto TikTok last year after the fashion rental company Bipty posted a now-deleted video featuring White women wearing sheer shawls draped across their chests, describing the look as 'very European effortlessly chic.' South Asian users on the platform immediately noted the similarities between the shawl and a dupatta. Many posted their own videos draping dupattas and mockingly dubbing them 'Scandinavian scarves,' using humor and irony to highlight the apparent erasure and misrepresentation of Indian heritage. Bipty did not respond to CNN's request for comment. 'With Instagram receipts and Gen Z rage, the tolerance for bad takes is zero,' the anonymous commentator behind the popular Instagram account Diet Sabya wrote in an email to CNN. (Diet Sabya, which draws inspiration from the established social account Diet Prada, often highlights fashion industry missteps, including cultural appropriation.) 'What once went unnoticed or unchallenged is now getting called out in real-time,' the email added. 'Someone in Delhi has the same access to discourse as someone in London. So, when a show uses a sacred motif incorrectly, the backlash is fast, loud and fully deserved.' High fashion's relationship with Indian artisans stretches back to at least the 17th century, when Europe's royal tailors sought out textiles like cotton and silk from the subcontinent. Over centuries, this cross-continental exchange has transformed Indian motifs from prized curiosities into ubiquitous elements of Western style. According to IICD's Gupta, textiles such as chintz and paisley are deeply rooted in India's rich artistic traditions and have long inspired global fashion, though their origins are now frequently overlooked. But India is not just a source of inspiration for luxury fashion — it's also an integral part of its supply chains. Today, a significant segment of the industry's manufacturing is outsourced to ateliers, embroiderers and textile producers in India. Yet, despite Indian artisans' foundational role, their creations are often shipped to Europe for final assembly and can thus be labeled as being 'made' in Europe. This kind of erasure, according to Imran Amed, founder, CEO and editor-in-chief of the industry publication The Business of Fashion, has 'reduced India to a manufacturing hub while Europe gets the cultural and economic credit.' 'In India, where craft is livelihood for millions, this distinction matters even more. It's not just about symbolism — it's about economic justice and dignity,' he said via email. The backlash Prada faced 'wasn't just about a sandal,' Amed added. 'It was a broader reaction to a long history of erasure and under-acknowledgment.' Homegrown designers are helping to change things. Indian fashion is having a striking impact on red carpets worldwide — and not only on the backs of Bollywood stars. Western celebrities are increasingly embracing Indian designers, too. Cardi B wore a custom-made, electric blue, hooded sculptural gown by Gaurav Gupta to the 2023 Grammys, while Zendaya walked the carpet in a shimmering, hand-embroidered blue sari gown by Rahul Mishra at a high-profile event in Mumbai months earlier. Kim Kardashian, meanwhile, has worn designs by the likes of Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who last year became the first Indian fashion designer to attend the exclusive Met Gala in New York. 'It's a powerful shift, almost like we're reclaiming our own narrative,' Gaurav Gupta told CNN. 'Designers from India are now presenting on the global stage not as 'ethnic' alternatives, but as innovators with our own language, our own shapes, our own ideologies. We're not adapting to fit in anymore; we're expressing to stand out.' For many Indians, the Kolhapuri chappals that Prada said it was 'inspired' by represent the ingenuity and artistry of Kolhapur, a historic city nestled in the country's western Maharashtra state. Typically crafted from locally sourced buffalo hide and tanned using traditional vegetable dyes, the sandals could effectively withstand the relentless heat and rugged terrain of the Deccan Plateau. The distinctive toe loop, which is attached to the T-strap, helped keep them close to the wearers' feet. Cutting across generational and social divides, the Kolhapuri chappal embodies both the enduring spirit of rural India and a bridge to contemporary fashion. The shoe is protected by a coveted 'geographical indication' tag — like the one ensuring Champagne is only produced in France's Champagne region — that, in theory, safeguards this symbol of Indian heritage from copycats. 'It's something truly Indian,' said Shubhika Sharma, the prominent Indian fashion designer and founder of the label Papa Don't Preach, in a video interview. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the Indian artisans behind the design amounted to a 'missed opportunity for Indian craftsmanship,' Sharma added. About 10,000 artisan families in Kolhapur are engaged in the chappal trade, according to local media reports, though many of them struggle in poor conditions and earn low wages. In India, Kolhapuri chappals can retail for as little as $5 or as much as $100, depending on the quality of leather and level of craftsmanship. While Prada's sandals had not hit the market at the time of last month's controversy, the luxury fashion house's shoes typically retail at prices ranging from $700 to well over $2,000. For Sharma, 'everything just boils down to respect,' she said. 'Was due respect given to the creator, to the person who originated it, to the culture that originated it?' Some Western labels have proven better at engaging with Indian audiences than others. In 2023, Dior made headlines by hosting a landmark runway show at Mumbai's historic Gateway of India, unveiling a Pre-Fall collection that celebrated the subcontinent's artistry. The collection featured Banarasi brocade, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring — motifs deeply rooted in Indian tradition and craftsmanship. Many of the embroideries and textiles on the runway were made by the Mumbai atelier Chanakya International, which was credited for its role. The show was widely hailed as a respectful homage, with Vogue India's fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania describing it as 'a thank you to India.' Amed, from The Business of Fashion, meanwhile, called the collaboration between Chanakya International and Maria Grazia Chiuri, then Dior's creative director, as 'thoughtful… not performative,' adding: 'Chiuri hasn't just sourced embroidery from India; she's spotlighted the artisans, acknowledged the lineage of the craft, and in doing so, helped shift perceptions of where luxury value is created.' Similarly, last month, Nike launched its first collaboration with an Indian fashion label, the Delhi-based brand NorBlack NorWhite, unveiling a vibrant range of sportswear inspired by ancient tie-dye techniques. The move was broadly celebrated by social media users in India, a country in which Nike has long struggled to make commercial inroads. For Diet Sabya's founder, however, much more must be done to ensure genuine recognition for Indian talent and traditions. 'When India is being eyed as the next big luxury market, you can't keep treating it like an exotic pitstop,' they said. 'While a few brands are finally acknowledging us as the global textile powerhouse we are — it's still crumbs. Visibility is a start. But equity is the end goal.'

India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly
India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly

CNN

time11 hours ago

  • CNN

India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly

When Prada sent several pairs of brown sandals with distinctive toe rings and intricate stitching down its menswear runway in Milan last month, observers were quick to point out their resemblance to a centuries-old piece of Indian heritage. The storied Italian fashion house may have presented the shoes as a new luxury creation, but many in India simply saw a pair of Kolhapuri chappals — traditional hand-crafted sandals with roots stretching back to the 12th or 13th century. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind the shoes, which had earlier been described by the brand simply as 'leather flat sandals,' according to the Guardian, sparked fierce and ongoing debate over cultural appropriation. Critics accused the label of erasing the legacy of Indian artisans, with voices across social media calling out what they saw as blatant design theft. Within a week, Prada had acknowledged in a letter to an Indian trade group that the sandals in its men's Spring-Summer 2026 collection were indeed 'inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' In a statement to CNN, the brand said it has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design.' Prada later added that it had met artisanal footwear manufacturers in India 'to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration.' Prada's readiness to confront the controversy could be a reflection of the fashion industry's growing interest in India's luxury consumers — and a reluctance to anger them. But the episode also epitomizes how Western labels have often struggled to meaningfully engage with the country's crafts and culture. India's luxury market is on a dramatic ascent, estimated to expand from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028 — a rate that would likely outpace most of the world's major luxury markets, according to global consulting firm Kearney. This projected growth is fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers. But today's Indian luxury consumer is 'no longer a singular archetype,' according to the celebrated Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta. 'We're seeing a beautifully diverse audience, from second-gen industrialist families to first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists and global citizens — who are all looking for something deeper than just a logo,' he said in an email. Major brands have been investing heavily in response. Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Valentino are among the fashion houses that have opened flagship stores in Mumbai or Delhi in the last three years. Others have collaborated with Indian labels or creatives on designs intended to speak more authentically to local audiences. Some of these brands are 'adapting beautifully,' Gupta said, but the 'real disconnect happens when brands view India as a commercial opportunity rather than a cultural dialogue,' he added. 'The Indian buyer wants to feel seen. It's no longer enough to just open a flagship in Mumbai, you need to speak the emotional and visual language of the market.' Indian inspiration is as essential to Western fashion as pajamas and Madras plaid. But accusations of cultural appropriation have intensified in recent years due to the growth of internet access in the country, the rise of social media platforms and a surging sense of cultural pride. 'A lot of Indian people, including designers and artisans, are aware of their rights,' said Toolika Gupta (no relation), director at the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design (IICD) in Jaipur, in an email, adding: 'They want acknowledgement of their legacy.' In 2019, fashion house Gucci sparked controversy with its 'Indy Full Turban,' sold for $790 on Nordstrom's website. The blue headpiece closely resembled the traditional Sikh turban, prompting backlash from Sikh communities in India and elsewhere. It was eventually removed from the website, with Nordstrom quickly apologizing amid the backlash. Just this year, the clothing company Reformation was criticized for selling a blouse, skirt and scarf that reminded many South Asians of the lehenga, an Indian garment consisting of a long skirt, top and a dupatta (scarf), a staple of Indian fashion for centuries and typically draped across a woman's chest. Some took issue with Reformation's lack of acknowledgement for the garment. One TikTok user joked: 'My girl is about to go strut the streets of India… Give credit where credit is due, this is literally a lehenga with a dupatta.' She also noted that the pastel-colored blouse, skirt and scarf were strikingly similar to lehengas worn by Bollywood celebrities in the early 2000s. In a statement to The Washington Post, Reformation said the design in question was inspired by a 1990s-era John Galliano gown and scarf set owned by the model Devon Lee Carlson, with whom it collaborated on the collection. just my thoughts on these pieces from the ref x devon collab #greenscreen #reformation #browngirl #browngirltiktok #lehenga #dupatta #devonlee #fashion #springfashion #indianoutfits #southasian #southasianfashion #jhumkas #ibizaoutfits #scarves H&M, meanwhile, recently came under fire for a sleeveless sheer 'long camisole' top and trouser set that many social media users likened to the salwar kameez, a traditional Indian tunic and pant. In a statement to CNN, H&M said the design took 'inspiration from current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces, as well as various plays on transparency and movement.' It's not just labels that have sparked controversy. Frustration spilled onto TikTok last year after the fashion rental company Bipty posted a now-deleted video featuring White women wearing sheer shawls draped across their chests, describing the look as 'very European effortlessly chic.' South Asian users on the platform immediately noted the similarities between the shawl and a dupatta. Many posted their own videos draping dupattas and mockingly dubbing them 'Scandinavian scarves,' using humor and irony to highlight the apparent erasure and misrepresentation of Indian heritage. Bipty did not respond to CNN's request for comment. 'With Instagram receipts and Gen Z rage, the tolerance for bad takes is zero,' the anonymous commentator behind the popular Instagram account Diet Sabya wrote in an email to CNN. (Diet Sabya, which draws inspiration from the established social account Diet Prada, often highlights fashion industry missteps, including cultural appropriation.) 'What once went unnoticed or unchallenged is now getting called out in real-time,' the email added. 'Someone in Delhi has the same access to discourse as someone in London. So, when a show uses a sacred motif incorrectly, the backlash is fast, loud and fully deserved.' High fashion's relationship with Indian artisans stretches back to at least the 17th century, when Europe's royal tailors sought out textiles like cotton and silk from the subcontinent. Over centuries, this cross-continental exchange has transformed Indian motifs from prized curiosities into ubiquitous elements of Western style. According to IICD's Gupta, textiles such as chintz and paisley are deeply rooted in India's rich artistic traditions and have long inspired global fashion, though their origins are now frequently overlooked. But India is not just a source of inspiration for luxury fashion — it's also an integral part of its supply chains. Today, a significant segment of the industry's manufacturing is outsourced to ateliers, embroiderers and textile producers in India. Yet, despite Indian artisans' foundational role, their creations are often shipped to Europe for final assembly and can thus be labeled as being 'made' in Europe. This kind of erasure, according to Imran Amed, founder, CEO and editor-in-chief of the industry publication The Business of Fashion, has 'reduced India to a manufacturing hub while Europe gets the cultural and economic credit.' 'In India, where craft is livelihood for millions, this distinction matters even more. It's not just about symbolism — it's about economic justice and dignity,' he said via email. The backlash Prada faced 'wasn't just about a sandal,' Amed added. 'It was a broader reaction to a long history of erasure and under-acknowledgment.' Homegrown designers are helping to change things. Indian fashion is having a striking impact on red carpets worldwide — and not only on the backs of Bollywood stars. Western celebrities are increasingly embracing Indian designers, too. Cardi B wore a custom-made, electric blue, hooded sculptural gown by Gaurav Gupta to the 2023 Grammys, while Zendaya walked the carpet in a shimmering, hand-embroidered blue sari gown by Rahul Mishra at a high-profile event in Mumbai months earlier. Kim Kardashian, meanwhile, has worn designs by the likes of Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who last year became the first Indian fashion designer to attend the exclusive Met Gala in New York. 'It's a powerful shift, almost like we're reclaiming our own narrative,' Gaurav Gupta told CNN. 'Designers from India are now presenting on the global stage not as 'ethnic' alternatives, but as innovators with our own language, our own shapes, our own ideologies. We're not adapting to fit in anymore; we're expressing to stand out.' For many Indians, the Kolhapuri chappals that Prada said it was 'inspired' by represent the ingenuity and artistry of Kolhapur, a historic city nestled in the country's western Maharashtra state. Typically crafted from locally sourced buffalo hide and tanned using traditional vegetable dyes, the sandals could effectively withstand the relentless heat and rugged terrain of the Deccan Plateau. The distinctive toe loop, which is attached to the T-strap, helped keep them close to the wearers' feet. Cutting across generational and social divides, the Kolhapuri chappal embodies both the enduring spirit of rural India and a bridge to contemporary fashion. The shoe is protected by a coveted 'geographical indication' tag — like the one ensuring Champagne is only produced in France's Champagne region — that, in theory, safeguards this symbol of Indian heritage from copycats. 'It's something truly Indian,' said Shubhika Sharma, the prominent Indian fashion designer and founder of the label Papa Don't Preach, in a video interview. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the Indian artisans behind the design amounted to a 'missed opportunity for Indian craftsmanship,' Sharma added. About 10,000 artisan families in Kolhapur are engaged in the chappal trade, according to local media reports, though many of them struggle in poor conditions and earn low wages. In India, Kolhapuri chappals can retail for as little as $5 or as much as $100, depending on the quality of leather and level of craftsmanship. While Prada's sandals had not hit the market at the time of last month's controversy, the luxury fashion house's shoes typically retail at prices ranging from $700 to well over $2,000. For Sharma, 'everything just boils down to respect,' she said. 'Was due respect given to the creator, to the person who originated it, to the culture that originated it?' Some Western labels have proven better at engaging with Indian audiences than others. In 2023, Dior made headlines by hosting a landmark runway show at Mumbai's historic Gateway of India, unveiling a Pre-Fall collection that celebrated the subcontinent's artistry. The collection featured Banarasi brocade, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring — motifs deeply rooted in Indian tradition and craftsmanship. Many of the embroideries and textiles on the runway were made by the Mumbai atelier Chanakya International, which was credited for its role. The show was widely hailed as a respectful homage, with Vogue India's fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania describing it as 'a thank you to India.' Amed, from The Business of Fashion, meanwhile, called the collaboration between Chanakya International and Maria Grazia Chiuri, then Dior's creative director, as 'thoughtful… not performative,' adding: 'Chiuri hasn't just sourced embroidery from India; she's spotlighted the artisans, acknowledged the lineage of the craft, and in doing so, helped shift perceptions of where luxury value is created.' Similarly, last month, Nike launched its first collaboration with an Indian fashion label, the Delhi-based brand NorBlack NorWhite, unveiling a vibrant range of sportswear inspired by ancient tie-dye techniques. The move was broadly celebrated by social media users in India, a country in which Nike has long struggled to make commercial inroads. For Diet Sabya's founder, however, much more must be done to ensure genuine recognition for Indian talent and traditions. 'When India is being eyed as the next big luxury market, you can't keep treating it like an exotic pitstop,' they said. 'While a few brands are finally acknowledging us as the global textile powerhouse we are — it's still crumbs. Visibility is a start. But equity is the end goal.'

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