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Overheard at the 2025 California Michelin Guide Ceremony

Overheard at the 2025 California Michelin Guide Ceremony

Eatera day ago
Chefs and restaurant folks from across California gathered at the SAFE Credit Union Performing Arts Center in Sacramento on June 25 for the 2025 presentation of the Michelin Guide California. At the annual ceremony, the Michelin Guide awards restaurants Michelin stars, as well as green stars, which recognize sustainability practices. The lobby of the performing arts center was abuzz with potential awardees and their staff taking in drinks and bites for more than an hour until the doors opened. Just before the start of the ceremony, Eater LA broke the news that Somni had been awarded three stars, the highest designation, and the first time a restaurant in the city had received it. Later in the ceremony, Providence was finally upgraded from two to three stars, coinciding with chef Michael Cimarusti and business partner Donato Poto's 20-year anniversary.
Other winners included Korean tasting menu spot Restaurant Ki, which received its first star, as well as its chef Ki Kim, who received the Young Chef Award; sushi destination Mori Nozomi, which received a star; and Silvers Omakase in Santa Barbara. Lilo took home its first-ever star, giving chef Eric Bost and partner John Resnick their second after their other restaurant, Jeune et Jolie, both in Carlsbad. Bib Gourmands were also released on the evening of June 25, with LA's only additions being Komal in South LA, Rasarumah in Historic Filipinotown, and Vin Folk in Hermosa Beach. Here are some conversations from the event, both before and after the ceremony.
'This is the first year that I'm just enjoying it. I'm not nervous. I'm very excited. I think with Pasta Bar [in Encino], the team is amazing.' — Margarita Kallas-Lee, Pasta Bar
'We're trying to get two stars with Pasta Bar. We're trying to get a green star, trying to get all those things. A year ago, we planted a legit quarter-acre garden. If my brother [Lennon Silvers Lee of Silvers Omakase] gets a star, we'll be the first brothers in America to both own separate starred restaurants, only the second time that's happened in the world, and the only ones current. If the stars align…' — Phillip Frankland Lee, Pasta Bar
(They eventually did and Silvers Omakase received a Michelin star.)
'I'm super happy to be here, happy to have the crew with us, happy to be in town for a night. Feel good, some butterflies. Nobody knows what they're getting.' — Eric Bost, Lilo and Jeune et Jolie
'Super, super nervous. I didn't think I'd be this nervous, but my heart's clutching right now. I don't know what I'm getting. I'm very thankful and grateful. I'm here with my entire team. I'm fortunate to have a team that's very easy to work with, and fortunate to have a space that is ideal and designed for us to be in. I would like to take more credit and say that I intentionally did all this, and coincidentally and gratefully, things are working out. In life, we always have plans, but life never goes as planned. When it actually goes as planned, it's crazy — it's amazing.' — Ki Kim, Restaurant Ki
'This is my first time, I'm so excited.' — Nozomi Mori, Mori Nozomi
'It's nice to be back after five years. It's nice to see people that we know and see people get recognition in the industry. I know how privileged I am to be here, I know I'm an immigrant with privilege, and was able to come in a different way. I want to make a voice not only for me tonight but also for people that weren't in my position. They have the same talent as me but they will never be here, so I want to make it for them, too. These people are also working hard, they have dreams, and they still keep the faith to move on. So I want to make it for that.' — Aitor Zabala, Somni
'It's an exciting time to be with restaurant people. The last year and a half in LA has been the greatest stretch of fine dining openings that I can remember. Starting with the re-opening of Vespertine and Somni, plus Seline, Restaurant Ki, Nozomi Mori, Marea, and the forthcoming Jaca, Maydan, Sushi Noz LA, and Lielle. It's exciting to start seeing them recognized. But LA restaurants need help. The bottom dropped out of the market in the fourth quarter last year after multiple years, and before that, it was anemic growth. Sales per location were down 13 percent in the fourth quarter (of 2024) and over 10 percent in the first quarter of 2025. On a per-location basis sales are now lower than they were pre-pandemic. This is not sustainable.' — Saul Cooperstein, inKind Hospitality
Ki, Mori Nozomi, Silvers Omakase, and Lilo were given new stars for Southern California. And notably, Somni and Providence were awarded three stars, the first time any restaurant, let alone two, had been given the highest mark in Los Angeles history.
'I had no idea. I thought we lost when the list of two-starred restaurants came out. I had no pretensions about it. We just go in and do the work, and if it comes, it comes. Thankful to be supported by an incredible team at Providence. Honestly, I think we're the best we've ever been, in the kitchen and also the front of the house. I'm happy and elated but more than anything happy for Donato [Poto], my wife, Donato's wife, Tristan Aitchison, our chef de cuisine of 20 years, our cooks, prep cooks, fish cutters, runners, bussers, servers, captains. It's difficult, it's not always as rewarding as you might hope it would be. At this time of the U.S., to be surrounded by a group of people who feel apprehension and dread every day for what might happen to them or in their community, family members, or friends, to work with people who are experiencing that right now, it's very difficult.
I hope that this achievement, which they've all been a part of, brings a little pride and maybe eases their burden a little bit. I'm proud to have employed probably a team of 80 percent immigrants ever since the restaurant opened, and Providence wouldn't be Providence [without them]. None of these people in this room right now would be here were it not for immigrants, and I'm very proud to be an employer of dozens of immigrants who cook, clean, serve, and do all the very hard work day in and day out. I'm proud to be a part of this industry, representing Los Angeles.' — Michael Cimarusti, Providence
'There are a lot of restaurants in Europe that get three stars that are new. There's been a handful in the past two or three years. It's nice that it happened to two teams that everyone in the industry supports and looks up to. If you're a cook, Providence is the north star. The things we've endured this year alone in LA — 20 years is amazing.' — Jon Yao, chef of Kato
'This is big for LA — LA needed this. To see a restaurant like Providence doing it for 20 years, that's the most inspiring thing. I look at what Donato does with service, the passion, and the energy. It is hard to sustain that in our city for that long.' — Ryan Bailey, partner at Kato See More:
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