I grew up in Yorkshire — here's my insider's guide to a weekend in the Dales

Metro

3 days ago

Growing up in Yorkshire, I was never far from wide open space. My childhood was filled with spontaneous camping trips, bunk barns with family and friends, and a huge focus on the outdoors.
And while Yorkshire is the UK's biggest county, meaning seaside spots like Whitby and ancient cities like York were essentially on my doorstep, it was always the Dales that had my heart. It still does.
There's nothing better than a hike through the countryside, crossing limestone ravines and waterfalls, before stopping at a country pub for some well-earned grub.
So, while the UK enjoys a spell of sunny weather – and as new research reveals 8 in 10 Brits are opting for a staycation in 2025 – there's never been a better time to explore one of Britain's most beautiful National Parks.
Your first stop should be Skipton, also known as the 'Gateway to the Dales.'
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Located just south of the National Park, it's the closest and largest market town to most of the Dales. This makes it a convenient starting point for exploring the scenery and attractions that await.
Back in 2008, Skipton was named the best high street in Britain by the Academy of Urbanism. Thanks to its community spirit, quiet charm, independent retailers and lack of modern development, its cobbled high street scored higher than London's Portobello Road.
Perhaps Skipton's biggest attraction is its castle that sits at the top of the high street. It's one of the best preserved medieval castles in England, built in 1090. During the Civil War, it even withstood a three-year siege.
For £12.40 (or cheaper if you book online), step back in time and explore almost every inch of the estate. From the banqueting hall, kitchen, bedchamber and privy, you can also climb from the depths of the dungeon to the watch tower.
Finally, before heading deeper into the Yorkshire Dales, grab a bite to eat at the Cock & Bottle, a traditional pub with a stone fireplace and wood-beamed ceiling. Everything on their menu is made in-house from locally sourced suppliers. Seriously, even the crisps are made in Yorkshire.
As Skipton is the 'Gateway to the Dales,' it only makes sense that I direct you this way to begin with. If you're driving from London, the journey will take just under 5 hours.
For those taking the train, the journey time is a little less, averaging between 3 hours and 3 hours and 45 minutes. Prices also vary depending on how far in advance you book. But roughly, for a one-way ticket with a change at Leeds, expect to pay between £36 and £55.
Whether you're planning on wild camping or staying in a local pub, I've selected my six favourite spots in the Yorkshire Dales. All offer the most magnificent views and epic hiking trails, not to mention a slew of natural hidden gems.
First up is Grassington.
TV lovers may recognise it as the fictional market town of Darrowby in the Channel 5 show, All Creatures Great and Small. Offering a taste of rural England and a charming village feel, there's scenic countryside from every angle.
The village is home to a bustling market square, where you'll find cafes, pubs, and independent shops. Cobbled streets and stone cottages make up the architecture, while regular events like antique and vintage fairs, plus the Dickensian Festival, liven up the sleepy town.
The latter celebrates the Victorian era, particularly as depicted in Charles Dickens's A Christmas Carol. It takes place on the first three Saturdays in December, and the village transforms into a Victorian marketplace complete with traditional food and drink, crafts, era reenactors, Christmas carolers, and brass bands.
During spring and summer, make the most of the warmer weather by walking or cycling through the surrounding landscape. Popular trails include the Dales Way along the River Wharfe, Grass Wood, and the lead mining remains on Grassington Moor.
Next up is Bolton Abbey, a scenic old ruin on the banks of the River Wharfe.
Owned and run by the Cavendish family, aka the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, Bolton Abbey dates back to 1154, when it was founded by Augustinian canons.
The abbey took around a century to complete, and at the time, it was one of the largest monasteries in England. Now, it's open to the public, where you can marvel at the ruins, cross the famous stepping stones on the river, and explore the 33,000 acres of countryside. Entry to Bolton Abbey, the Priory Ruins, and the wider estate is free. But, parking costs £15.
Don't fancy paying a parking fee? Don't worry, as street parking outside the estate is completely free.
However, most locals are aware of this, so it's worth getting down there early to secure a spot. If not, you could be driving around for ages, or potentially end up parking a lot further away than you'd like.
Once you've done the rounds, grab a bite to eat at the Devonshire Arms Hotel located on the estate. Or, immerse yourself in nature with a picnic hamper. For £39.50, enjoy an afternoon tea courtesy of the Abbey's garden kitchen. For £49.50, upgrade to a champagne version. Choose one sandwich, a salad, and a dessert from their menu.
Granted, it is a little pricey. So if you still fancy lunch with a view – without being as boujie – I'd recommend packing your own picnic.
On a bend on the River Wharfe, surrounded by a breathtaking circle of fells, you'll find Burnsall.
Just two miles southeast of Grassington, many people hike between each village. It's considered a moderate to challenging route, and takes around 2 hours and 15 minutes to complete.
Looking for something less expensive? Head to the iconic village of Appletreewick, where camping is the go-to accommodation style.
Masons campsite on the banks of the River Wharfe is open between March and early November, and offers pitches suitable for caravans, tents, campervans and motorhomes. The main field has electric hook-up available on every pitch. Camping starts from £34 per night.
The campsite has its own on-site rustic kitchen, serving barista coffee from Huddersfield-based roasters, Dark Woods. Fresh sourdough pizzas, croissants, baguettes and homemade cakes are also up for grabs.
If you're looking for a wholesome experience, the Appletreewick Village Hall is home to a yearly comedy festival hosted by local farmers. Residents and guests bring picnics and drinks, and providing the weather's nice, the festivities expand into the fields on either side.
Once you reach Burnsall, make a pit stop at the Red Lion Hotel on the picture-postcard bridge overlooking the river. The bar serves award-winning ale, while the restaurant showcases local producers.
Or, if you fancy, book into a room overnight. There's a choice between cosy Pub Rooms, spacious Holiday Cottages, and even boutique Manor House Rooms. When you sign up for the pub's newsletter, you get 10% off your first stay. The Pub Rooms cost around £125 per night.
Pateley Bridge is next.
Since 1994, it's been an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. And the best way to enjoy the landscape? By hiking. The village is the start and finish point on the Nidderdale Way, a 53-mile circular route that loops around the picturesque Nidd Valley.
Other popular routes that take you through woodland and moorland include the Pateley Bridge Circular via Brimham Rocks and the Pateley Bridge Heritage Trails. Don't fancy such a huge trek? There are plenty of short riverside strolls to enjoy, too.
Last but not least, and my favourite Yorkshire Dales location of all, is the chocolate-box village of Malham.
The walk around Malham Cove, a 70-metre-high white limestone cliff, is a natural wonder. The landscape is so dramatic that the Cove was featured in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1.
Gordale Scar is also a standout location: two waterfalls with overhanging limestone cliffs sit at over 330 feet high. More Trending
Many thrill seekers take on the rocky scramble to the top of the cliff beside the waterfall. But be careful, it's a challenging route that's only suitable for experienced climbers.
Finally, Janet's Foss is the perfect hidden gem spot for a wild summer swim. The waterfall is concealed in a secluded wooden dell that glows green in the sunshine, while the turquoise waters of the plunge pool beneath are still and inviting.
Legend has it, Janet's Foss was the home of Janet, the Queen of the Fairies. Old Norse folklore says she resided in a cave behind the waterfall.
You can actually camp right next to Gordale Scar on the adjacent farmland. The Gordale Scar Campsite is run by two old farmers and has space for 60 pitches.
Prices start from as little as £4 per night. Of course, this affordability means the amenities are basic: there's only one toilet, and you have to collect and boil your water from the nearby stream, or stock up from the local village pubs. But, if the simple life appeals to you, you won't find a better place to wake up.
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