The future of fabric: Eight groundbreaking textile developments
Thermore introduces Ecodown Fibers Sync
Italian thermal insulation specialist Thermore has launched Ecodown Fibers Sync, a new offering made from 100% recycled plastic bottles. The material is designed for outdoor garments and prevents clumping, even after repeated washing. It holds both Bluesign and Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certifications.
Hugo Boss debuts NovaPoly recycled yarn
Hugo Boss has unveiled NovaPoly, a recycled polyester yarn co-developed with Jiaren Chemical Recycling (China) and NBC LLC (Dubai). The yarn is produced from textile waste generated during production and post-consumer use. The first garments made with NovaPoly will appear in the Boss Green Spring-Summer 2026 collection, particularly in performance wear.
Event Fabrics and BRCM launch AlpineST laminate
Breathable-laminate specialist Event Fabrics has introduced AlpineST, a recycled and PFAS-free material that is now in commercial use. American brand Big Rock Candy Mountaineering (BRCM) became the first to adopt the laminate in its new Dawn Wall Jacket. The fabric also features a fluorocarbon-free water-repellent treatment.
Sheep Inc. unveils regenerative Firegen fabric
After two years of development, British brand Sheep Inc. has launched Firegen, a 100% regenerative and carbon-neutral three-layer fabric. It blends undyed merino wool with cotton from the Good Earth Cotton regenerative farming initiative. Co-developed with Portuguese partner Fibregen, Firegen is also 100% biodegradable. It currently features in hoodies and sweatshirts in five colorways.
Balena and Neyla Coronel create compostable 3D-printed bra
Israeli company Balena, known for its biodegradable polymers, partnered with Colombian designer Neyla Coronel to create a custom, compostable 3D-printed bra. Produced using a biosourced, elastic filament co-developed with Recreus, the design offers enhanced comfort and flexibility.
China explores new-generation viscose alternatives
China's Baily Group, a major global fiber manufacturer, has launched small-scale test production of next-generation viscose in Henan province. Created in collaboration with BylurRecel, the fiber replaces wood pulp with post-consumer natural clothing and household linens. The pilot plant, supported by forest advocacy NGO Canopy, has an annual capacity of 1,000 tonnes.
Yibin Grace scales cellulose fiber innovation
Canopy also backs a project by Yibin Grace, a cellulose fiber specialist in Sichuan province. The company has set up a plant with an annual capacity of 1,500 tonnes and plans to ramp up production to 60,000 tonnes per year by 2027—using only post-consumer textiles.
Circule-8 and NewRetex partner on UK textile sorting
In the UK, textile sorting and pre-treatment company Circule-8 Textile Ecosystems has invested in an automated sorting system developed by Dutch firm NewRetex. Capable of sorting 25,000 tons of clothing annually by color and material, the system marks the first phase in a larger partnership to industrialize textile sorting in a country where 700,000 tons of non-reusable textile waste are generated each year.
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AYT Studio carves a path between contemporary fashion and artistic expression
Like the great painters and sculptors, fashion designers and luxury brands now find themselves featured in retrospectives in museums around the world. While the number of links between fashion and art has multiplied over the past decade, the motivations of those involved in the ready-to-wear sector can be diverse, ranging from the search for artistic legitimacy to the creation of new experiences or successful commercial operations. For Yasmine El Kadiri, who worked for Kenzo, Celine, and Saint Laurent as a merchandising specialist, and who was at the forefront of observing this flourishing of collections centred around artworks and artists, this trend represents an opportunity. "When I observed these initiatives, they were often linked to an artist's work. But I believe there exists a space to create a dialogue with artists, where the artist participates in and influences the creative process. For me, creative engagement is a driving force, even though I have a commercial background. I have this desire for co-creation." The designer first put her concept to the test in the IFM Entrepreneurship program, before developing the first AYT Studio collection from mid-2024, with the intention of creating limited editions around her collaborations with artists. "I wanted to approach these collections under the concept of editions because I didn't want the work to be associated with a particular season, there's a kind of timelessness." For this first edition, the designer has collaborated with Lille-based artist Remed (Guillaume Alby) to translate the painter's works into garments. Together, they explored the possibilities of using details from certain artworks to create prints. The collaboration covers around twenty pieces, focusing on flowing viscose dresses featuring all-over prints. Produced in Italian workshops, the garments echo Remed's graphic and colourful work. Shirts, t-shirts, silk squares, and leather bags, made in the Tarn region of France, make up a comprehensive, colourful wardrobe that has been divided into four chapters. "I work in print, which is a niche in the fashion world, but it's an interesting expression in terms of colour and volume," said the entrepreneur. "I appeal to a community that is sensitive to the artistic approach. I think in terms of silhouettes, with dresses, shirts, but also accessories," said the designer, who is proud of her local sourcing. "And while each edition will explore the work of a particular artist, I can also express the AYT Studio style through contemporary cuts, fluidity and optimism, as well as the presence of certain pieces that are my references, like oversized shirts. I want to add markers that will reassure the customer." The brand can be found online via its aesthetic e-commerce store, but Yasmine El Kadiri relies on physical encounters to best express her concept. This approach was validated after a pop-up in the Marais district of Paris in spring, in which Remed's works mirrored the clothes on display, enabling the label to reach both French and international customers. The designer is continuing in this vein, exhibiting her creations until the end of July at the We Are club in Paris, located on rue Saint-Honoré and dedicated to the creative industries. The brand will then move on to the new We Are location in Lille, at 22, place Louise-de-Bettignies, in the heart of Vieux-Lille. This will be followed by another installation for a few days in the Parisian space, during the next Women's Fashion Week. "This period is also an opportunity to meet buyers, particularly department stores who are interested in concepts that blend different universes. I'm convinced that in the plethora of ready-to-wear on offer, what's going to make the difference is authenticity and commitment. The relationship with wholesale can take time, but there are opportunities around different venues, such as art foundations, and I'm a big believer in hotels. These are places where it's possible to express this relationship between the collection and the artist's work", said the entrepreneur, who is moving ahead with partnerships with resorts, to offer her editions as cruise collections. With its original concept, beyond seducing buyers, AYT Studio is also imagining a new approach to fashion distribution.
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Doucal's turbocharges retail, eyes US for wholesale expansion
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Fashion Network
an hour ago
- Fashion Network
Doucal's turbocharges retail, eyes US for wholesale expansion
Doucal's, the Italian luxury footwear brand founded in 1973, plans to expand its retail network, which currently includes three mono-brand stores (in Milan, Paris, and Doha). The label also recently opened a franchise store in Moscow, at Gum, in partnership with a local affiliate. "Following our expansion in Moscow, our next target is the Middle East, a very dynamic market at the moment, where we will continue to collaborate with partners. We plan to open a boutique in Istanbul by the end of this year, followed by a store in Ankara in 2026; within the same region, we are also considering expansion to Beirut and further development in Doha," Gianni Giannini, CEO and Creative Director of the brand, told "Additionally, we are considering upgrading our current boutique on Via Gesù in Milan to a larger space, while remaining within the Quadrilateral." In the direct-to-consumer sector, the company is experiencing significant success with its e-commerce platform, which experienced 50% growth in both 2024 and the first six months of this year. "Given that our platform is not yet fully global, there remains a lot of potential for growth," said the entrepreneur. The brand is also focused on enhancing its wholesale channels, with particular attention directed towards the US: "The US market is complex and one that we have studied extensively. We are approaching it with a strategic organisational and distribution plan. This August, we will participate in the Chicago Collective fair and have representation in a multi-brand showroom in New York, where Doucal's will be the sole footwear brand," Giannini continues. "There are significant opportunities here: during challenging economic times, retailers seek novel offerings for their clientele, and we are positioning ourselves to be recognised as a leading option." The CEO expressed satisfaction with the brand's financial performance in 2024, which concluded with single-digit growth despite the challenging economic climate, bolstered in part by the strength of its women's collection, which is expanding its range and distribution. Doucal's employs approximately 120 people and generates 70% of its revenue from international markets, with Northern Europe—led by Germany—and the Middle East serving as primary market regions. The Doucal's collection for S/S 2026, titled Terre du Dèsert, draws inspiration from a journey across Italian deserts—enchanting territories sculpted by wind and tranquillity—such as the Murgia in Apulia, the Accona Desert in Tuscany, the rugged landscapes of the Marche, and the sun-drenched expanses of Sardinia and Sicily. The brand's designs feature considered proportions and textured materials, with a palette that transitions from sandy tones to its luminous Horizon Blue, a natural colour that evokes the horizon's depth and the promise of a serene oasis. Among the highlights of the upcoming summer collection is the Norwich loafer, distinguished by its tapered silhouette and semi-square toe, crafted with Soft Blake construction and lined in soft suede with a velvety texture. This article is an automatic translation. Click here to read the original article.
