La Bastide: A Taste Of Provence, One Hour From New York City

Forbes

4 days ago

View of the dining room from the patio at La Bastide, North Salem, New York La Bastide/www.maxbphoto.com
In less than a year, La Bastide by Andrea Calstier, a fine dining experience in North Salem, New York, earned a Michelin star. Such early recognition, like this, is uncommon but not surprising to those who have dined at this bespoke, six-table restaurant in northern Westchester.
Chef Andrea Calstier and General Manager Elena Oliver, a husband-wife team, own the restaurant and its sister property, Cenadou Bistrot. Two perfectionists, the couple has brought their abundant talents, creativity, love of Provencal cooking, and moxie to America.
North Salem (Westchester County), incorporated as a town in 1788, is only about one hour from Manhattan. But its tree-lined two-lane roads and rolling hills, punctuated by lakes, rivers and reservoirs, offer the vibe of a place much farther away from the bustling city.
Soon after arriving at La Bastide, guests are led to a comfortable seating area on a stone patio outside the glass door of the dining room. The pairing of aperitifs and canapés, accompanied by views of the bucolic countryside and herb garden in the backyard, feels transportative.
The intimate dining room is as picture-perfect as the outdoors. Well-spaced, round tables accommodate parties of no more than six persons each, so the room never feels crowded. 'This is a very personal space where we spend much of our time,' says Elena. 'We want our guests to feel like we are welcoming them to our home.'
Careful thought has gone into the design and decor. An open kitchen on one side of the room allows guests to watch the careful final plating of each dish, while the other side features a striking, contemporary wine wall. 'The open kitchen offers an air of transparency and allows us to feel connected to our diners,' says Calstier.
The chairs and tablecloths are made of fine Italian leather. The tableware includes custom ceramics by Esther Kwon and knives from blacksmith Coutellerie du Panier, from the couple's hometown in Marseille. Also featured are porcelains from Studio Matte, Belgium, and French Limoges from Jacque Pergay. The Journey From France To North Salem
Elena Oliver and Chef Andrea Calstier La Bastide
Chef Calstier has a noble culinary lineage. He began cooking at age 15 and trained in some of France's most esteemed Michelin-starred kitchens, including Christophe Bacquie's La Table du Castellet in Provence and L'Abbaye de la Bussiere in Burgundy.
In 2017, the young chef seized an opportunity to work in the kitchen of celebrated Chef Daniel Boulud at Restaurant Daniel in New York City. Elena, his soulmate since high school, joined him on this foray.
The chef describes the year he spent working at Daniel's as becoming 'part of a family." There, he not only honed his culinary skills but built his confidence and developed connections. It also gave him the opportunity to learn English from the brigade in the kitchen.
Within a year, the couple signed a lease for a very tiny dining space and opened their own French bistro, Papilles, in the East Village. The fearless chef was only 23 then. In that small space, Elena was able to elevate her management skills, and the restaurant achieved immediate success. 'It taught us how to become proper restaurant owners,' he says. 'Learning how to hire, inspire, attract, and mentor staff is what sets chefs apart from cooks.'
When a partner of Chef Boulud introduced the couple to the North Salem property, they were smitten by the area and knew it offered more possibilities than they could possibly achieve in New York City. 'The region resonated with us because it would more fully allow us to express ourselves,' says Calstier. La Bastide: Impeccable Cuisine and Service
Hors d'oeuvres at La Bastide, North Salem, NY La Bastide/www.maxbphoto.com
After a year and a half of renovation, La Bastide opened its doors in February 2024. Although it was difficult to fill the dining room at first, perseverance, consistency and staying true to their vision helped them achieve the Michelin star that 'put the restaurant on the map.'
The chef's training in classical French cooking enabled him to set aside his ego. But it allows him to innovate and create dishes that showcase the foods rather than the technique. 'We think about the customer experience at every stage of the meal,' he says.
While the cuisine at La Bastide pays homage to the couple's roots in Provence, the menu is seasonal, sometimes even microseasonal, capitalizing on the rich bounty the Hudson Valley offers. The chef adapts classic Provencal recipes, including those his grandmother used to prepare, and is inspired by meeting with local farmers in the area to see what they are cultivating.
'The menu is 80% seafood, even if it is only to complement a vegetable dish, because there is so much amazing seafood on the East Coast from Maine to Long Island to New Jersey,' he says. 'In terms of high-quality products, we've never felt limited by the supply.'
Currently, the restaurant offers tasting menus at two seatings, 5:00 PM and 8:00 PM, Wednesday through Sunday. Diners have the option of an additional cheese course and/or wine pairing. Sommelier David Berube, who also worked for Chef Boulud, has curated a Wine Spectator award-winning list of 600 French regional wines for the restaurant.
Service is seamless, thanks to a well-trained, attentive, and knowledgeable team. From the amuse-bouche to the appetizers, and from the moment the waitstaff lifts the silver domes from the entrées in unison, every dish offers a profusion of delightful flavors presented with artistry and flair.
Fabulous desserts (like the popular chocolate with goat cheese) provide the proverbial icing on the cake, leaving sweet memories of an excellent meal. Cenadou Bistrot: More Casual, But Also Not To Be Missed
Welcoming bar at Cenadou www.maxbphoto.com
The more casual, 50-seat Cenadou Bistrot is co-located in the same building as La Bastide, one floor above the fine dining restaurant. Like its sibling, its menu reflects a fusion of delectable influences from Provence and the Hudson Valley. Diners can choose from hors d'oeuvres, charcuterie, mains like Steak Frites, cheeses, and more. The room also offers views of the surrounding landscape and features a welcoming bar (with a limited bar menu).
The Bistrot first opened in June 2023. Extremely popular with locals, it has even received glowing accolades from Martha Stewart, who held a holiday party there for her staff. This dining room can stand on its own excellence and only pales when compared to the elegance of La Bastide. La Bastide: A Bastion Of True Hospitality
La Bastide is a truly unique restaurant, perfect for a special occasion or for making any occasion special.
Many guests choose to enjoy a special dinner at the restaurant and return the following day for a more casual lunch at Cenadou. Elena is always pleased to provide recommendations for nearby boutique hotels and small inns. She aptly describes the destination as 'a perfect getaway that offers the feel of being somewhere in France.'
After a visit, the most lasting impression of La Bastide, beyond the exceptional food and ambiance, is the genuine warmth, hospitality, and dedication of the owners. 'If you believe in what you want to do, you don't have to compromise,' says Chef Calstier.
IF YOU GO
La Bastide By Andrea Calstier
721 Titicus Road, North Salem, New York, [phone]