A trichologist's guide to thickening your hair without hormones
Hair naturally sheds more and thins as we age. While hormonal changes often contribute, several non-hormonal strategies can restore thickness and fullness.
Trichologists and celebrity hair experts weigh in on why hair changes and how to revitalize body and volume – without hormone intervention.
One key factor is the shrinking of hair follicles with age, leading to finer strands and a thinner overall appearance. Additionally, the hair growth cycle loses efficiency over time.
'Everyone's hair loses volume to a certain degree with age,' explains Philip Kingsley's lead trichologist Anabel Kingsley. 'Just like we don't have the same skin tone in our 40s, 50s and beyond as we did in our 20s, our scalp and hair follicles age – which impacts the quality of strands they produce. Hairs become finer and fewer hairs are growing in relation to resting and shedding.'
Hormonal shifts – especially during perimenopause and menopause – can play a big part. 'The biggest time to see loss of hair volume is during perimenopause and menopause,' says Kingsley.
'This is due to declining oestrogen levels. Oestrogen is very hair supportive; it's anti-inflammatory and helps to keep hairs in their growth – the anagen – phase for longer.
'When oestrogen declines, it can cause more hairs to shed, as well as make them finer and shorter.'
These hormonal changes, combined with reduced blood circulation to the scalp and slower cell regeneration, all contribute to hair thinning.
Fortunately, thinning hair doesn't mean you're out of options. Several non-hormonal treatments can support scalp health and stimulate hair growth.
'Topical or oral minoxidil is generally the most effective non-hormonal treatment for female pattern hair loss,' explains Kingsley. 'Micro-needling may also help – but I would suggest having this done at a dermatologist to avoid damaging your scalp. It's most effective when used alongside Minoxidil.'
Minoxidil is a topical treatment that you can apply to your scalp to stimulate hair growth but can take two to four months to see its effects. It also maintains the regrowth, meaning when you stop using it, the regrown hair can fall out within three months.
However, more natural ingredients can also stimulate hair growth. 'Topical melatonin, caffeine and peptide blends [also work],' explains Kingsley. 'While these won't be as effective as a medicated treatment, they can help.'
Inanch Emir, co-founder of Inanch London and hair extension specialist, supports this view, adding: 'Peptide – or stem cell-based serums – stimulate follicle activity.
'Caffeine-infused products may help energise roots. Biotin, niacin and zinc supplements also support healthy hair from within.'
She also says topical rosemary oil – which you may have seen on TikTok – has been shown in some studies to perform comparably to Minoxidil.
Regaine For Women 5% Scalp Foam 4 Months Supply, £34.32 (was £50), Just My Look
The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density, £20.80, Space NK
Nature Spell Rosemary Oil For Hair & Skin, £8, Holland and Barrett
Can routine and scalp care really make a difference?
While products are important, your daily habits and how you treat your scalp can play a key role in hair health and maintaining thickness.
'Scalp massages won't grow you a new head of hair, but it can support scalp health by reducing stress, encouraging healthy blood flow and relieving tension,' says Kingsley.
However, she warns against using scalp brushes, and instead use your fingertips. '[Scalp brushes] can break your hair and damage your scalp – plus they tend to get mouldy.'
Emir also stands by incorporating scalp and head massages into your routine: 'Scalp massaging for three to five minutes daily boosts blood flow, helping nutrient delivery to follicles,' she explains. Micro-needling, in a clinical setting, can also help by enhancing the absorption of growth serums to stimulate follicles.
But remember, sometimes less is more. Stick to gentle shampoos and finish with a cold rinse to enhance shine and scalp tone.
The right cut and styling can make a world of difference. Whether you're aiming to create the illusion of more volume or maximise what you have, small tweaks go a long way.
'I recommend using plumping shampoos to make the appearance fuller,' says Kingsley. 'Blow-drying your hair upside down or against the grain of growth can add lovely root lift.
'Volumising products are also great – use a root-boosting foam or froth to add root volume and spritz a thickening protein spray throughout your mid-lengths and ends to add texture.'
As for hair cuts, 'regular trims are essential for finer hair to get rid of any split ends and damage that makes hair look thinner,' says British Hairdresser of the Year and Toni & Guy's global creative director, Cos Sakkas.
'A blunt cut will make hair look thicker as it's denser through the outline. Layers cut in the correct way will help to create volume and shape, but it's important to keep the perimeter heavy and full throughout.'
Using volumising products after washing give an instant appearance of thicker-looking hair.
'Adding volume at the root will instantly make hair look and feel thicker,' says Sakkas.
'Blow-dry hair upwards away from the root […] tip it upside down in a diffuser if you're wanting a more naturally textured finish. Switch up your parting – wear it on the opposite side to your usual parting and you will instantly notice volume through the front.'
Philip Kingsley Body Builder Weightless Shampoo, £28
Philip Kingsley Body Builder Weightless Conditioner, £28
LABEL.M Volume Foam, £25, Toni and Guy
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