The Leddie hotel was more than worth the trip from Dundee

The Courier

03-05-2025

Is there a more relaxing way to spend a Sunday morning than sipping coffee, wrapped up in a fluffy hotel robe?
Only, I decided, if we didn't have to leave.
It felt like we'd only just arrived for our one-night stay at The Leddie, a boutique hotel in Aberlady, East Lothian, and we were sorry to check out.
Built in 1683, the building was turned into a hotel in 1970, bought over in 2023 and re-opened the following year after an extensive renovation.
Now it is a 27-bed hotel in the epicentre of Scotland's golf coast, with a 70-cover restaurant and bar.
We arrived after a pit stop for lunch in South Queensferry. Between battling Edinburgh traffic and a tight squeeze through to the car park (even in our little Corsa) we were slightly flustered on arrival.
That was soon forgotten after a friendly welcome at reception, with an offer to carry our bags to our room on the first floor.
The Leddie, an ode to the original name of the river running through the village, has an inviting lounge which feels airy during the day, then cosy and inviting with its log fire at night.
On to our room, a junior suite with a lovely view of the courtyard.
It was spacious, tastefully decorated and supplied with a Nespresso coffee machine and beautiful-smelling L'occutane bathroom products.
Two rounds of home-made shortbread, alongside a handwritten note, was a personal touch.
The only tiny downside was my hair straightener plug did not fit in the socket as it had been built in too close to the dressing table.
Luckily, there were plenty of other sockets in the room (unusual for a hotel) and if that was the only fault we could find, The Leddie team have much to be proud of.
We took a walk around the village before dinner and noticed lots of helpful information boards for visitors.
A tranquil coastal location makes Aberlady the perfect base for a golfing holiday, more peaceful than nearby Edinburgh or North Berwick.
Back in time for an apertif, we perused the expansive drinks list before settling on cocktails.
It also features page after page of wine options or, if whisky is your thing, there are over 30 nips to choose from.
We were equally impressed with the dinner menu, which offered a wide choice of dishes with locally-sourced ingredients.
To start I chose cured sea trout, which was delicious but a small portion compared to Steven's huge bowl of Shetland mussels.
However when my steak arrived I was relieved not to have filled up too early, devouring every bite of the meat (supplied by East Lothian butcher John Gilmour) and side of fries and salad.
Steven's pan-fried cod was also delicious and he somehow found room for a side of crispy garlic potatoes, which were perfectly cooked and used to soak up his mussel butter sauce.
Neither of us have a sweet tooth so we debated sharing a cheese board for dessert. I like the option to pay per slice so you only order what you want, meaning no waste.
However Steven declared himself stuffed after his mountain of seafood so I went for affogato with Baileys.
During the meal deputy manager Ferris stopped by our cosy corner table for a chat and recommended some places to visit the following day.
Retiring to the lounge for a nightcap, another quiet corner allowed us to enjoy our chat without interrupting, or being interrupted by, a larger group nearby.
Staff continued their impeccable service, checking if we needed refills or recommendations.
After a sound night in one of the most comfortable beds I've slept in, we enjoyed the waterfall shower and the robes mentioned back at the start of this review.
At breakfast we loved the 'starter' option of porridge or yoghurt, before the 'main' cooked offering. It gave us the choice of a buffet with the service of a sit-down meal.
I enjoyed Greek yoghurt with rhubarb compote while Steven tried out a breakfast banana split.
We both opted for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on sourdough, which was the highest-quality breakfast we'd tried for a long time.
After a swift checkout we manoeuvred the dreaded car park again and travelled the seven miles to North Berwick by car.
For those who prefer public transport, there are bus stops right outside The Leddie with services to North Berwick and Edinburgh.
If you want to stay closer to 'home', Aberlady Bay, Longniddry and Gullane beaches all make for peaceful walks nearby.
For the golf fans, Archerfield, Gullane, North Berwick and Muirfield are all close by.
It's easy to see why AA awarded The Leddie five stars.
The food, created under the watchful eye of head chef Shaun Lund, was faultless, the service was impeccable and the surroundings were stylish without lacking in comfort.
As I live in Dundee, I'm looking forward to seeing what owners Wirefox do with the Ardgowan Hotel in nearby St Andrews, currently closed for refurbishment and due to re-open in 2026.
If it's anything like The Leddie, they're on to a winner.
The Leddie: Our stay in a junior suite with bed and breakfast, plus £40 per person towards dinner, cost £363.50 on a Saturday night in April.
The same deal on a standard room is available for £255.50.
Getting there: Various buses between Edinburgh and North Berwick stop in Aberlady.
The nearest railway station is three miles away at Longniddry, which is just 20 minutes from Edinburgh by train.