Why you're wrong about Wales – it's the perfect break

Telegraph

23-05-2025

When the roads narrow, when the ruined castles rear up, when the houses disperse or disappear entirely into hills that shimmer in one hundred hues of green, then you know that you have arrived in Wales.
This is a land lived outdoors, where national parks cover a fifth of the ground and farming still constitutes a fifth of the overall economy. The best and most beautiful things to do here invariably involve getting out into the mesmerising nature: hiking over mountains and along shorelines; biking a labyrinth of little lanes; surfing or swimming off pristine beaches. Towns and cities are few and far between, yet never interpret this as a dearth of culture.
In fact, Wales' extreme topography – its mighty uplands, its innumerable inlets and rivers and bogs – have long kept outside influences out, and thus been largely responsible for conserving a culture defiantly distinct from neighbouring England. Here, even after the Anglo-Norman Conquest, distinguishing traditions survived: you'll see this in the Welsh language preceding the English translation on every sign, and in unique festivals championing everything from Abergavenny area's fabled produce to Wales' patron saint in his home city St Davids.
Wales is no geographical giant, but its slow-moving roads and lonesome terrain will make it seem so. Bearing this in mind, this route does not take on too much and – avoiding the big cities, the big mountains and the big crowds – concentrates on communicating as much of the esoteric wild essence of Wales as can reasonably be revealed in 14 days, taking in all three of the country's national parks, plus the great unsung highlight of the country: Mid Wales.
Follow along and it will be two weeks of devastatingly good-looking countryside, of bracken-blanketed hills and a jaw-dropping jigsaw of coastline, of bypassed-but-buoyant market towns, of ruined fortresses and restaurants where farm-to-fork is a distance of only a few fields. You'll follow the way out west from Southeast Wales to St Davids, the country's westernmost settlement and one of medieval Europe's biggest places of pilgrimage, before swinging north along the Mid Wales coast to vibrant Aberystwyth, making inroads into the big mountains and bewitching beaches of Snowdonia, before finally finishing on the sand-rimmed Isle of Anglesey.
If you are blessed with more time, venture inland into the big unknown of Mid Wales' Cambrian Mountains, the UK's remotest land south of the Scottish Highlands. Wherever you go, avoid making the common mistake of attempting to squeeze all of Wales into a single trip: save some for another time.
Although the starting point of our itinerary, Abergavenny, is well-connected to Cardiff and London by rail, it makes sense to jump off the train at Cwmbran for car rental or come with your own car: you'll need a vehicle for each day of this trip, except perhaps the final day. Car rental companies like Enterprise have offices in both Cwmbran and Bangor, near this trip's end, so you could arrange a Bangor drop-off and return home by train from there.
Market town Abergavenny is the gateway to the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog) National Park, handily huddled below rugged uplands the Central Beacons (west) and the Black Mountains (north). It happens to be flanked by three of the park's most iconic hills, too. Plump for a clamber up Sugar Loaf, which takes around two hours from the National Trust car park above Sugar Loaf Vineyard: the far-reaching views across South Wales' undulating patchwork quilt compensate for the tough climb.
Abergavenny has a standout foodie scene, evidenced by the quality produce at its market (Tuesday/Friday/Saturday), at elegant central hotel The Angel with its hearty, local meat-driven dinner menu and epic afternoon teas or at Michelin-starred The Walnut Tree in nearby Llandewi Skirrid. Try one of these for lunch. Market goodies are best munched on a picnic in the verdant Abergavenny Castle grounds.
Start this afternoon forging southwest to plunge into the region's titanic industrial past at Blaenavon. At this Unesco World Heritage Site the key attraction is the Big Pit, once among South Wales' leading coal mines, where you can be lowered into its inky depths for a harrowing insight into mining life.
Finally, drive north along the eastern edge of the Central Beacons to one of the national park's prettiest communities, Crickhowell, where 500-year-old beamed hostelry The Bear Hotel doubles as dinner and as a memorable overnight stop
Tolkienesque beauty and empty roads
Crickhowell's independent shops and eateries warrant reconnoitring this morning: a coffee in the basement café of bookshop Book-ish makes a fine start to the day. The town is a major hiking centre, too, and the verdant, hilly surrounding landscapes also inspired JRR Tolkien into naming hobbit home Crickhollow after Crickhowell. The two-to-three-hour hike up Table Mountain (451m) from town shows off the bewitching scenery here.
Next, beeline east on minor lanes for lunch at Llanvihangel Crucorney's Skirrid Inn, claiming nine centuries of history and most probably Wales' oldest pub: the tavern guards the entrance to the secluded Vale of Ewyas.
One of South Wales' remotest roads bisects this steep-sided valley for almost 30km north to Hay-on-Wye, passing resplendent ruin Llanthony Priory, where you can stop off to quaff an ale in the adjoining 12th-century cellar bar or stay over in lodgings forming part of the original priory buildings, along the way. You could also mosey along to Wales' National Book Town Hay-on-Wye and go wild for the night in style at woodsy riverside glamping site By The Wye.
Literary Hay-on-Wye is book-lovers' bliss: there are over 20 bookstores bunched into this tiny cobble-street town. Spend time this morning browsing shops stacked with tomes – Richard Booth's even includes a bookshop cinema – or venture on a two-hour kayak down the Wye, Wales' best river for paddling, with Want to Canoe? Long carving a reputation as one of the Brecon Beacons' best restaurants, Felin Fach Griffin is 18km southwest of Hay-on-Wye. Lunch here before your long-but-lovely drive west across the national park.
Allow 1.25 hours without stops for the bewitching back route via Libanus, the Usk Reservoir and Trapp to Llandeilo, considering stops at Brecon's Norman cathedral and Carreg Cennen Castle, picturesquely perched on a crag above Trapp.
Candy-coloured Llandeilo, tumbling down hillsides above the River Tywi, is your resting place tonight. Make central, antique-peppered boutique lodging the Cawdor Arms Hotel your go-to accommodation and dinner date.
Llandeilo offers a vast array of shops and cafes considering its small size: try souvenir shopping in local craftspeoples' cooperative Crafts Alive and coffee at Flows on Market St. Before leaving town, dally on the delightful Dinefwr Estate with its 17th-century manor house, ancient deer park and the 12th-century ruined castle that was seat of the once-powerful dynasty of the Princes of Deheubarth.
You then have a difficult choice. You could continue west towards Pembrokeshire through rolling Carmarthenshire past the broken hilltop silhouette of Dryslwyn Castle and nearby upscale bistro-cum-farmshop Wrights before dipping to the seaside after Carmarthen at estuary town Laugharne, former home of Wales' best-known and hardest-drinking bard Dylan Thomas.
The writer resided at the Dylan Thomas Boathouse that juts out over the estuary, today a museum where you can learn about the man and his works. Overnight here at Brown's Hotel, Thomas' favoured watering hole.
You could also detour south to the superlative Gower peninsula west of Swansea. This gorgeous combo of heathery heath framed by some divine beaches warrants a week of exploration in itself. For the abridged version, travel out west to the two-mile sandy strand of Rhossili Bay. Walk the beach along to Burry Holms and the smaller beaches just east, including natural rock-rimmed plunge pool the Blue Pool. Or keep the Dylan Thomas theme going with a tide-permitting adventure out to Worms Head, where the bard himself once got stuck. For beach views after the day-trippers have departed, Worm's Head Hotel is perfectly positioned above Rhossili.
Whether you gravitate to the Gower or linger in Laugharne, next proceed west into Pembrokeshire. this itinerary deliberately skips big South Pembrokeshire beach resort Tenby, encountered soon after leaving Laugharne. The reason: to lead you to a less touristy part of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park's alluring crinkled shoreline, bending on from here via broad butterscotch-sand beaches, wave-pummelled coves and dreamy fishing harbours to St David's and beyond.
It's about an hour's drive from Laugharne to Stackpole. Take to the minor coast-hugging lanes after Lydstep and break the journey at under-the-radar surf spot Manorbier, where a 12th-century castle and excellent village tearoom-cum-music venue Manorbier House will ensure this wild-feeling beach will waylay you this morning.
In Stackpole, ivy-clad country tavern the Stackpole Inn can stand in as your lunch, dinner and accommodation. In-between times, explore Stackpole NNR, an exceptionally varied expanse of coastline. From Stackpole Quay, remote and ravishing Barafundle Bay, the wood-backed dunes of Stackpole Warren, the lily ponds of Bosherston Lakes, sandy Broad Haven beach and St Govan's Chapel, wedged in a cleft in the cliffs, are all doable on foot before dinner.
Drive northwest via Pembroke Dock to fetching fishing village Little Haven, aiming for a mid-morning arrival. This allows time to grab a boat-fresh seafood takeaway at Lobster And Môr, a leisurely drink and a stroll along the beach out to The Point (the headland alongside).
Little Haven is near the southern end of St Brides Bay, which you'll now be tracing north around to St Davids: the bay is distinguished by its several coves, idyllic inlets edged by quiet harbours, and you'll pootle past Broad Haven, Druidston Haven and Nolton Haven on the way to wide, tempestuous Newgale Bay, a great place to try surfing.
Following the coast around, it is hard to resist pausing at another gorgeous fishing village, Solva, with its snaking, sheltered harbour, art galleries and enticing spots to eat and drink. You'll reach St Davids soon afterwards. Check in to modern, art-bedecked Twr y Felin Hotel at the top of the city for the next two nights and splurge on a meal at their restaurant Blas. For a quieter, more historic stay, there is Penrhiw Hotel, a 19th-century priory out on the way towards Whitesands Bay.
Sacred sites and sandy coves
The obvious first port-of-call in what was one of the medieval world's most important pilgrimage destinations is St Davids Cathedral – a dazzling 12th-century building fashioned in the locally-prevalent purple Caerbwdy stone with a history harking back to the monastic community St David established here in the sixth century. Also visit the adjacent (and ruined) St Davids Bishop's Palace, which rivalled the cathedral for majesty during the 13th and 14th centuries. Dinky St Davids is delightful for strolling around: don't forgo coffee, cake, souvenir shopping and perhaps a lesson in foraging in the Really Wild Emporium, where much of the food is made with locally foraged seaweed.
This afternoon, it's beach time. You have several options, and could walk or drive to a few beaches rimming the beautiful section of the Wales Coast Path that circumnavigates the headlands around St Davids. But come to the big one – Whitesands Bay, to the northwest – maybe adding in a ramble along to sandy cove Porthmelgan.
Above Porthmelgan is Carn Llidi, the prominent distinctively-shaped crag that probably made St Davids area such a revered place to begin with back in Neolithic times, dotted in prehistoric sites. St Davids Gin and Kitchen is an atmospheric, contemporary spot for dinner this evening.
Lagoons, beaches and dolphins
Start early today as you head up Wales' west coast. You're bound for Aberystwyth, Mid Wales' most vibrant town, a two-hour drive northeast. En route, make a diversion to see Abereiddy's Blue Lagoon, where the water is tinted a striking blue-green. There are plenty of hidden beaches along this stretch, such as Penbryn, tucked below some enchanting woodland. Ceredigion seaside town New Quay makes another great stop: you can go on a boat trip with SeaMôr to spot members of Europe's biggest bottlenose dolphin population, before continuing to Aberaeron's Harbourmaster, one of Ceredigion's best lunch stops. Here you could detour inland a few miles to the 18th-century country manor and garden of Llanerchaeron House.
Booming beach town life
Aberystwyth is probably Wales' most magical major settlement, and vied with Cardiff to be chosen as the Welsh capital in the 1950s. Stroll along the promenade's candy-coloured houses, taking in North Beach, the pier and South Beach, peek at Aberystwyth Castle ruins and be sure to climb to the impressive National Library of Wales with the highlight among the permanent exhibits being the Nanteos Cup, a possible candidate for the source of the Holy Grail legend.
You might have time to slot in a trip on Valley of Rheidol Railway, taking a steam train up to the Victorian beauty spot of the dramatic Devil's Bridge gorge. Intersperse this with excellent dining at some of the eclectic eateries: Medina (Middle Eastern) and Ultracomida (tapas bar and deli) are sensational. Just take care to reserve well in advance.
Secrets of Snowdonia
Aberystwyth is close to the southern edge of Snowdonia (Eyri) National Park, which you'll soon find yourself in this morning as you proceed north via Corris, where you can pause to observe craftspeople from different disciplines at work at Corris Crafts Centre.
Drive over the mountains to one of Snowdonia's prettiest little towns, Dolgellau, its grey houses bunched along labyrinthine streets below Southern Snowdonia's highest peak, Cadair Idris. Lunch at T.H., a central café ensconced in a 19th-century ironmongery. Snowdon itself is the national park's most overrated mountain and swamped with crowds: spend this afternoon climbing far-quieter and equally spectacular Cadair Idris from the Ty Nant car park on the 10 km Pony Path: a hike of around five hours. Dine tonight in Tafarn y Gader: Spanish tapas in a tradition-rich Welsh town.
This route through Snowdonia National Park runs 33 km along the Mawddach estuary to Barmouth, and then up the coast to Harlech. Here, the first of this seaboard's imposing Unesco-listed castles, Harlech Castle, rears above the town from atop a crag. Opposite, at the top of what is allegedly the world's steepest street, Caffi Castell offers welcome refreshments.
Afterwards, wander along wide, sandy Harlech Beach and explore the wildlife-rich dunes of Morfa Harlech National Nature Reserve. Historic royal town Caernarfon, 45 minutes' drive north, now beckons, along with an afternoon visit to perhaps Europe's most splendid medieval fortification, Caernarfon Castle. This Unesco World Heritage Site protrudes into the Menai Strait, separating North Wales from Anglesey.
Finish the day by crossing the strait on the 1826-built Menai Suspension Bridge, the world's first major one of its kind, onto Anglesey, Wales' biggest island. Check into Nant yr Odyn Country Hotel, near Llangefni, and stay here for tonight and tomorrow night, eating at its well-regarded restaurant tonight.
Wales's Biggest Island
On your final full day in Wales, start off south of your accommodation in the car park at Newborough Warren, on Anglesey's south shore. Saunter from here along stunning sands to serene tidal island Ynys Llandwyn, where St Dwynwen, Welsh patron saint of lovers, lived most of her life. It's a rite of passage for romance-loving Welsh to visit this poignant spot. Anglesey is another one of those places that could waylay you for many days, but after your beach-side walk you should prioritise sojourns to titanic fortress Beaumaris Castle, in Beaumaris, and the country house of Plas Newydd, wrapped in beautiful wooded grounds. Dylan's in Menai Bridge makes a wonderful, atmospheric place to eat on your final day.
Homeward bound
Now, for all those twists and turns over the last two weeks, it will take less than 4.5 hours to return from Newborough to Cwmbran – almost a complete northwest-southeast traverse of Wales. Pick up mainline train connections after returning your hire car 13 miles northeast of Newborough, in Bangor.
The main holiday season starts at Easter weekend and runs through to the end of September. Beat the crowds by giving the school summer holidays at popular spots like St Davids a miss. You're not necessarily foresaking the best weather by holidaying outside high season: May often has the most sunshine in Wales and September the warmest seawater temperatures.
What to book
Accommodation is not generally included in multi-day tours of Wales, although companies will book accommodation for you on top for a fee. Rabbie's Tours offer a three-day Mountains and Coasts of South Wales bus tour from Bristol, taking in St Davids, Laugharne, the Brecon Beacons National Park and Hay-on-Wye and overnighting in Tenby and Abergavenny (£235 per person in high season).
Most visitors to Wales go independently, however. Abergavenny, which kicks off this trip, is reached by hourly train from London via Newport (South Wales) (standard single tickets from £134) and these trains also stop at Cwmbran, where the nearest car hire is located. Car hire in Cwmbran costs from £250 weekly.
What to pack
Pack waterproofs – Wales has a proclivity for precipitation – and swimwear – because the fickle weather can flicker over to sunshine in which the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park becomes one of the most inviting seaboards in Europe.
If you're travelling in your own vehicle, bringing a bike lets you see that little bit more: lanes and tracks may be steep, but you'll often have them to yourself. Binoculars will help you spy South Wales' diverse birdlife, and local marine creatures like seals and bottlenose dolphins.
Focus on changes of clothes for outdoor activities: the Welsh generally dress low-key, and one or two casual-smart outfits for the very best places to eat and drink mentioned here will suffice.
Holiday reading
On the Black Hill (1982) by Bruce Chatwin, detailing turn-of-the-20th-century farming life in the Black Mountains' Vale of Ewyas, should be the first book out of your bags. Try and finish this by day four, when you hit Dylan Thomas' erstwhile home Laugharne. Under Milk Wood (1953) is his most famous book, a 'play for voices' with the larger-than-life characters likely inspired by his lengthy sojourns in Ceredigion's New Quay and Laugharne. You might want to pack some poetry too. Thomas wrote evocative verses fired by the estuarine scenery around Laugharne and there is even a Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk around town, based on Thomas' Poem in October about a birthday stroll to St John's Hill.
If you have time for a third book, why not begin at the beginning with Wales' first-known collection of prose, The Mabinogion. It's a 12th- and 13th-century transcription of wildly varying oral tales that date back far further, running the gamut from philosophy to fantasy to Wales' very different take on the King Arthur legend, and forms the basis for so much of the literature that came after it, too. Song Castle (2018) by me, Luke Waterson, set in the 12th century, narrates the colourful adventures of a group of bards travelling across Wales to a festival of music and song on the west coast in 1176: it unfolds across many of the same South Wales landscapes this itinerary passes through. Non-fiction-wise, and for a more general overview, late-Welsh travel writer Jan Morris' Wales: Epic Views of a Small Country celebrates the nation throughout history from its folklore to its politics.
Expert tips
The Welsh can be quite humble about their speciality foods, with the consequence that even those visitors from elsewhere in the British Isles often haven't heard of them. Watch out for Welsh rarebit (a cheese on toast variant with Worcestershire sauce in the mix), sewin (coracle-caught sea trout), cawl (a root veg stew with lamb or beef) and Welsh cakes (griddle cakes stuffed with dried fruit).
Always allow more time for travelling between A and B on Wales' generally narrow roads, where tractors, stray sheep and downright spectacular scenery slow the going down.
Rural Wales ticks to different opening hours than those travellers heralding from big cities may be accustomed to. Mondays and Tuesdays often see restaurants and attractions closed: expect Thursday to Saturday evenings and weekend lunchtimes as standard restaurant opening hours (anything more is a bonus) and check/book ahead.
For further inspiration, view our guide to the perfect holiday in Pembrokeshire, including where to eat, the best hotels and what to do, here. Alternatively, discover how to swerve the crowds in Snowdonia in our dedicated guide.