Battle to save Indonesian 'paradise' as nickel industry expands into Raja Ampat in Papua
With its crystal-clear waters and picturesque islands, Raja Ampat — often described as "the last paradise on Earth" — has long been a dream destination for tourists.
But this archipelago off Indonesia's east coast has emerged as the latest battleground between groups at odds over the country's nickel industry.
For Indigenous Papuan man Matias Mambraku, Raja Ampat, or the "Four Kings", is more than just a paradise.
"It's so important not only because of its beauty, but [because] it provides us a livelihood," Mr Mambraku told the ABC.
"Many of us here are fishermen, so we really depend on the water, it can fulfil our everyday needs."
The archipelago of 1,500 islands, cays and atolls are a UNESCO Global Geopark because of the historic limestone karst rock formations that jut out of the sea.
The area is also home to some of the most diverse marine life on earth, said Australian conservationist Lynn Lawrence.
With the organisation that she founded with her husband, The Sea People, Ms Lawrence has been trying to restore and protect Raja Ampat for more than a decade.
She said over 75 per cent of the world's known hard-coral species, 1,800 reef fish and five endangered turtle species are among the significant sea life here.
However, conservationists said the archipelago's delicate ecosystem is being sacrificed to support Indonesia's burgeoning renewable energy industry.
Indonesia is the biggest refiner of nickel in the world.
Over the past decade the rapid expansion of the industry — to support the electric vehicle and green energy transition — has created opportunities for some while leaving others struggling to get by.
Ms Lawrence does not agree with calling Raja Ampat "the last paradise" on earth.
"Raja Ampat doesn't need to be admired for what it still has; it needs to be protected for what it still gives," she said.
Greenpeace Indonesia has been campaigning to protect Raja Ampat and released an investigation into nickel mining in the area earlier this month.
The report revealed nickel mines are responsible for least 550 hectares of deforestation across three islands: Manuran Island, Gag Island, and Kawe Island.
"Forests have been destroyed, and rainwater runoff now carries sediment from the cleared areas," Greenpeace said in its report.
"This is causing reef-smothering elevated turbidity in the sea, evident as discolouration of water near jetties and mines."
Shortly before the Greenpeace research was released, the Indonesian government revoked four of the five active licences within the UNESCO geopark.
The government's decision came after a national outcry over nickel mining in Raja Ampat, and in response to a popular social media campaign, "#SaveRajaAmpat".
Indonesia's mines minster, Bahlil Lahadila, said at the time the decision to revoke the mining permits was due to "environmental violations" within the UNESCO geopark.
The one remaining permit not revoked by the government is on Gag Island.
It's held by Gag Nickel, a subsidiary of the Indonesian state-owned mining company Aneka Tambang, which is listed on the Australian Stock Exchange.
Arie Rompas from Greenpeace Indonesia urged the government to revoke the Gag Nickel permit.
"There must be a formal decision to ensure that the revocation is actually carried out," Mr Rompas told ABC.
He warned the government had reactivated mining permits it had revoked in the past.
The ABC contacted Gag Nickel, Aneka Tambang and multiple Indonesian government ministries but did not receive a response.
Gag Island is about 43 kilometres from Piaynemo — a famous cluster of karst formations that feature on an Indonesian bank note.
Global Forest Watch reported that between 2017 and 2024, deforestation caused by nickel mining on Gag Island reached 262 hectares.
Nickel ore mined on Gag Island is loaded onto barges and transported to be refined at the Weda Bay Industrial Park (IWIP) on Halmahera Island, North Maluku, Greenpeace said.
According to public reports from Aneka Tambang, Gag Nickel's parent company, ore from Gag Nickel is processed by Tsingshan, a large Chinese-run subsidiary operating within IWIP.
IWIP is an integrated mineral industrial complex backed by investment from three huge Chinese companies, which have proliferated since former Indonesian president Joko Widodo first banned the export of unprocessed minerals in 2014.
The ban "ushered in a new era of growth and prosperity for the people of Indonesia," the Indonesia Chamber of Commerce Madam Chairperson, Arsjad Rasjid, told the ABC in 2023.
But a study from Indonesian not-for-profit organisation Nexus3 and Tadulako University on the pollution around IWIP showed alarming results.
Published in May, the study results are based on tests run on water, blood and fish samples taken around Weda Bay in July 2024.
Water samples from the main river which serves as drinking sources had high concentrations of heavy metals, including chromium and nickel, that exceeded safe limits set by the US Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA).
Blood samples taken from residents living near IWIP recorded the presence of heavy metals like mercury — and arsenic at levels exceeding safe thresholds in 15 people.
Nexus3 principal researcher Yuyun Ismawati said, apart from inhaling pollutants, heavy metals detected in blood came from eating contaminated fish.
The study found that fish caught in Weda Bay contained elevated levels of arsenic and mercury.
Ms Ismawati said the arsenic levels in fish surpassed national safe thresholds and posed a serious risk to people who live in the area and ate them.
"The fish samples were taken at the fish landing site, directly from the fishermen's boats — these are the same fish sold at the market," she said.
"We collected fish from there because that's what local residents consume daily.
Rivani Abdurrajak, head of the local government environmental agency, disputed the findings of the Nexus3 research, local media reported in early June.
Mr Abdurrajak told Kompas the water in Weda Bay was not polluted by nickel mining or processing, and government tests showed levels of heavy metals, including arsenic and mercury, at safe levels.
Ms Ismawati said that the "cocktail of toxic pollutants" around industrial parks like IWIP were difficult to measure.
"Inside these zones, there are various smelters — not just for nickel, but also for aluminium and other metals, even in small quantities, so even if we could take some samples, there are no standard benchmarks to measure these chemical cocktails," she added.
IWIP has been contacted for comment.
The pollution around IWIP and other major nickel processing parks has acted as a warning to conservations and locals campaigning to defend Raja Ampat from a similar fate.
While Indigenous Papuans in Raja Ampat depend on the sea for their survival, the archipelago holds a greater significance for locals.
"Raja Ampat's value is inseparable from the people who live in, depend on, and actively shape it," Ms Lawrence said.
Mr Mambraku lives in a village near one of the nickel mines which had its permit revoked.
He said he hoped the Indonesian government would ensure that any kind of future activities in Raja Ampat followed environmental safeguards and included Indigenous people in decision making.
"It's so important not only because of its beauty but it provides us livelihood," Mr Mambraku said.
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles

News.com.au
20 hours ago
- News.com.au
‘Danger is always lurking': Experts reveal what happens if you fall into an active volcano
The plight of a young Brazilian tourist who fell into an active volcano in Indonesia has raised questions about the dangers of trekking in the country, which is made up of some 17,000 islands and sits on the Pacific 'Ring of Fire'. 26-year-old Juliana Marins, a publicist and pole dancer from Rio de Janeiro, had been trying to summit Mount Rinjani, the second highest volcano in Indonesia, when she slipped and fell last week. While Rinjani is an 'active' volcano, it is not currently erupting and the last recorded eruption was in 2016 which caused a 2 kilometre ash plume but no fatalities. It has the potential to erupt periodically, unlike other volcanoes which are extinct, but it is not under 'alert' at the moment, meaning that an eruption is not considered imminent. Global health expert and medical doctor at YARSI University in Jakarta, Dr Dicky Budiman, explained to that Rinjani is extremely high with deep ravines, extreme temperatures and volcanic gases. 'If people fall while trekking, they can sustain multiple broken bones and traumatic head injuries which are the most dangerous and can be fatal,' he said. 'If people survive the initial fall, there are other risks such as poisonous gases and extreme temperatures which can cause asphyxia and hypothermia. 'When trekking on active volcanoes, there can be extremely high temperatures around thermal vents and poisonous gases which are colourless and have no smell, and can poison you without you knowing, causing you to have breathing problems, asphyxiate and die. 'Hypothermia can happen if victims fall into a crater lake and are in the water for a long time, but if they fall into an active crater, victims can also suffer from burns from piping hot steam or scorching hot surfaces.' Dr Budiman added that hikers should always follow the official paths and should not try to find alternative or illegal routes on mountainsides. They should also use local guides and follow their advice. He added that many foreign hikers in Indonesia were often ill prepared as the local terrain was very different to their home countries, and that anyone planning to trek in Indonesia should make sure that they were physically fit enough before starting out. 'Danger is always lurking' Local guides from across Indonesia, including those familiar with Rinjani, told that trekking in the country, which has some 130 active volcanoes, always carried some risk and that survival rates could be low if climbers found themselves in trouble. Samsul, who like many Indonesian goes by one name, is a local guide in Banten Province who has led tours around the Anak Krakatau volcano and Ujung Kulon National Park. He explained that safety protocols and planning were the key to staying safe. 'When you do an activity like this, you need to be extra careful and always double check to ensure that all members of the trek are accounted for,' he said. 'All recreational places are dangerous, in fact the dangerous ones are the ones that present the most interesting challenges and are like magnets for trekkers. 'Danger is always lurking, so you can't be even a little careless. A seasoned guide constantly needs to warn hikers about dangers along the climbing path which can cause slipping and falling, and other hazards such as fallen trees, potential landslides or loose rocks.' He added that this advice did not just apply to mountains and volcanoes, but that visitors to Indonesia needed to be mindful of safety whether they were in mountainous areas, forests and jungles, or the water. Another local climber Ajo, who previously worked as a guide leading trekkers to Mount Marapi which means 'Mountain of Fire' and is located in West Sumatra Province, said that, in his experience, it was rare for anyone to survive a fall while trekking – especially if evacuation was not carried out immediately due to poor weather or remote terrain. 'Usually people will have sustained injuries when they fall which will affect their ability to survive,' he explained. 'If you fall with inadequate protective equipment, it can be very dangerous to vulnerable parts of your body like your head and that makes the potential for death high. 'Trekking in Indonesia is inherently dangerous. However, the risk can be minimised with thorough preparation and knowledge of the dangers.' He added that just some of the perils included extreme weather, difficult terrain, the risk of getting lost, injury and wild animals. 'Besides that, the characteristics of each mountain are different, and sometimes that is what makes trekking dangerous and risky. Before trekking or climbing, we must know all about the specifics of the local terrain.' Ahmad Syamsul Hadi, a member of parliament for Central Lombok, told that Rinjani 'offers some of the best trekking in Indonesia' and was no more hazardous than other mountains across the country as long as tourists took appropriate precautions. 'There are of course challenges to trekking Rinjani, and you need to be physically fit and have a lot of stamina. 'The terrain is changeable and not in a straight line to the summit. 'The route takes you up and down, on flat paths, then hiking trails and then downhill. So it takes a lot of energy. 'It is not recommended that you attempt to trek by yourself if you are a beginner. It is not just a case of walking around a mountain for a few hours, you need to be much more prepared.' He added that, if things went wrong on a trek, it was often a race against time. 'People need to be rescued within 72 hours to have a chance of survival, especially if they do not have any food or water with them,' he said. 'The weather is also quite extreme on Rinjani due to its elevation of some 3000 metres and it is extremely cold.' Hadi said however that the Indonesian authorities were highly experienced in recovering stranded tourists, and that three separate helicopters had been dispatched to try and rescue Marins, with the governor of East Nusa Tenggara personally overseeing the mission in an effort to bring her home safely. 'We hope that everyone will be safe. We hope for the best,' he said. Fadli, who has worked as a porter on Rinjani for the past three years, carrying supplies and luggage for climbers, told that 'all mountains are dangerous'. 'The challenges on Rinjani are the same as other mountains in Indonesia, but the biggest problem is that climbers are often ill prepared when they attempt to summit the mountain and then descend. 'Examples of this would be not bringing enough water or food, or not bringing essential medication with them.' Fadli put survival rates of trekkers at 'about 50 per cent' if they suffered a fall, especially if they were close to the summit of a mountain where terrifyingly steep ravines can be between 500 metres to one kilometre deep and 'covered in loose rocks'. 'If a victim falls and gets snagged on a rock, there is a higher chance of survival, but if they just keep on falling, the chance decreases,' he said.


SBS Australia
2 days ago
- SBS Australia
Malagna Woman a Ranger at One of The World's Greatest Wilderness Treasures
Her office is the World Heritage Listed Gathaagudu, or Shark Bay, in Western Australia, considered one of the world's greatest wilderness treasures. Her work includes using cameras to monitor local wildlife. But her biggest passion in this vast land is people. Listen to SBS Indonesian on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 3pm. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram , and don't miss our podcasts.

News.com.au
3 days ago
- News.com.au
Indonesia AirAsia launches new direct Adelaide to Bali route
A major Asian airline has just launched another direct route to Bali, giving Aussie travellers more options to pursue their holiday dreams in Indonesia's island paradise. Indonesia AirAsia, a budget carrier associated with the popular Malaysian brand, touched down at Adelaide Airport on Thursday to mark the new direct Adelaide-Denpasar route. The carrier will operate four flights a week from Adelaide using a 180-seat A320-200 aircraft. It will fly into Adelaide every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday and depart every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, providing more than 74,000 seats per year through Adelaide. Indonesia AirAsia also uses Bali as a transit hub, which means Aussies can connect through Denpasar to more than 130 other destinations across Asia. It also opens up South Australia to more Indonesian travellers. The massive Southeast Asian nation injected $49m into the state's visitor economy in 2024, an 18 per cent lift from 2023. Indonesia's Ambassador to Australia Siswo Pramono said the new route would foster 'broader exchanges in tourism, education, economy and people-to-people relations'. 'This is more than just the addition of a new route, it is also a meaningful step towards strengthening connectivity between Indonesia and Australia, particularly in the southern region,' he said on Thursday. 'It also holds great significance for Indonesians living in South Australia, providing them with easier access to reconnect with their families and homeland. 'This is diplomacy in its most tangible form by bringing our nations closer not only through policy but also through shared experiences, human connections and cultural ties.' Indonesia AirAsia acting chief executive Achmad Sadikin Abdurachman, meanwhile, said the new route opened up immediate access to all the splendours of Asian tourism. 'We are excited to introduce Adelaide as a new destination for the millions of guests across the AirAsia network while offering South Australians seamless access to many of their favourite destinations across Asia, including Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Singapore, and Phuket via our FlyThru service,' he said. 'Travellers can also take advantage of onward connections beyond Bali to explore other remarkable parts of Indonesia, such as Jakarta, the bustling capital, or Labuan Bajo, home to the iconic Komodo National Park.'. More and more international carriers are launching routes in Adelaide. Earlier this month, Air New Zealand announced it would starting running direct flights from Adelaide to Christchurch on the country's South Island from October. From December, US carrier United Airlines will provide direct flights between San Francisco and Adelaide three times a week until March. Tourism Minister Zoe Bettison said the new routes would boost the state's economy. 'These direct international flights to Adelaide add to the record number of international airlines connecting the world to our state, all helping grow our international market, which is currently worth a record $1.3bn to our state,' she said.