How to spend a weekend in the most English of German cities
And yet the Reeperbahn is only a small part of Hamburg. This has always been a wealthy city, an alluring blend of grunge and glamour. Its gritty docks are awash with clubs and bars; its leafy avenues are full of chic restaurants and designer stores.
Hamburg is Germany's biggest port, and it's the water that makes it special. Criss-crossed by canals and bridges, its bustling harbour gives it a gutsy flavour. It's also renowned for art and music. If you want to discover the real Germany, this historic Hanseatic port is the best place to start.
For more Hamburg inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, things to do, restaurants, and bars and nightlife.
In this guide:
How to spend the perfect weekend
Day one: morning
Begin your day with a bike ride around the Aussenalster, Hamburg's vast and lovely lake. A pleasant cycle path follows the entire five-mile circumference. Allow about an hour, including pit stops. The route is mainly parkland, with lots of laid-back bars and cafés en route. Stop for brunch at the Literaturhauscafé in Hamburg's grand old literary institute. To hire a bike, download the app from stadtrad.hamburg.de.
Wind up your morning workout with a short stroll around the Binnenalster, Hamburg's smaller inner-city lake. It's lined with local landmarks, including the Alsterhaus, the city's smartest department store, and the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, its most illustrious hotel.
After all that walking and cycling, you deserve to put your feet up. Board a pleasure boat at Jungfernstieg for a cruise along the River Alster. Buy a ticket from the quayside kiosk, or online at alstertouristik.de.
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Times
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- Times
A splashier splash — London's poshest pools
Many of us dream of a cool pool, perhaps surrounded by comfortable day beds, or indeed a chic Mediterranean restaurant serving cold rosé wine and crustacea, maybe even a panoramic view. But we Londoners do not need to jump on a plane to enjoy such delights, they can be found right here, in dreamy marble-clad basements and on fancy rooftops. Furthermore there is no off-season with these pools, they are as lovely in winter as in summer. If you are looking for somewhere to swim in serenity, Surrenne (a private members Club in The Emory), is an excellent choice. Since its opening in April 2024, the subterranean wellness sanctuary has offered fitness classes, spa treatments and nutritional guidance. During the day their 22m pool is illuminated by a sky light, and in the evenings by candlelight. An underwater speaker provides a soundtrack for your strokes. Poolside cabanas with matching cream-coloured curtains line one side of the pool and the changing room is kitted out with ring lit mirrors and all the Dyson appliances you could possibly desire. The sand coloured walls, floor and general décor creates a harmonious vibe. • Dynamic destinations for luxury travel Exclusive access is reserved for hotel guests or members who get to enjoy the 2000 square metres of tranquillity that not only encompasses the pool but also treatment rooms, gym and Tracy Anderson studio. Membership is £10,000 per year (with an initial £5000 joining fee). This Grade II* Edwardian Baroque building is where Winston Churchill once conducted a war and the intelligence services orchestrated global espionage. Now it is a Raffles hotel, opening in 2023 after a £1.4 billion renovation. The hotel's spa is the grandly titled Pillar Wellbeing Centre, encompassing 2,500 square metres over four-floors. The pool is 20 metres long with double height ceilings, the walls are sand coloured and there are cushioned beds for recuperating after laps. If you work up an appetite the spa kitchen offers cold-pressed juices and seasonal dishes. The spa is available to hotel guests and members of Pillar Wellbeing. A membership will set you back by £6,500 a year for an individual, £12,000 for joint or £25,000 for the platinum membership (that includes unlimited personal coaching, extra spa treatments, guest passes and discounts). Situated barely a stone's throw from the Thames, this hotel is not just known for its lavish river front rooms, it is also celebrated for its four-floor, 3,300 sq m Espa Life spa. One of these floors is carved out exclusively for thermal relaxation. It is there that you will find their two pools. A stainless-steel swimming pool with ambient lighting is crafted for gentle laps and has mattress-like pool-side beds, whereas the vitality pool is more mindless floating. 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