The Caribbean, Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination
Presented at Kabawa before dessert, this might be the loveliest palate cleanser in town. It's all the lovelier for being a little messy, in keeping with the restaurant's ethos: fine dining, but without the pomp.
Kabawa opened in late March in the space once home to the half-bonkers, half-sublime Momofuku Ko, on a dead-end alley off East First Street named, as if with a shrug, Extra Place. In 1977, the address was sufficiently down-and-out to be the backdrop for a Ramones album cover; if you sneaked out the back of the punk club CBGB, this was where you wound up.
The chef, Paul Carmichael, grew up in Barbados and worked his way through New York City kitchens before taking the lead at Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, Australia, the farthest-flung outpost of the Momofuku empire. It closed in 2021 — luckily for New Yorkers, for now Mr. Carmichael's superlative cooking and ambitious vision of Caribbean cuisine have been returned to us.
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