Discover Bornholm: five ways to experience the best of Denmark's ‘Sunshine Island'

The Guardian

09-06-2025

Denmark is a nation of islands – more than 400 by most counts – and one island in particular has a special place in the Danes' hearts: Bornholm. Closer to Sweden than Denmark, Bornholm is in the Baltic Sea and nicknamed the 'Sunshine Island' because it soaks up more sun than anywhere else in the nation. Spring reaches Bornholm earlier, and summer leaves later, its granite bones holding on to the warmth of the rays for longer, making it a great destination for outdoor adventures.
Around one-and-a-half times the size of the Isle of Wight, the island is surrounded by clear water and fine sandy beaches, and dotted with fishing villages and small creative communities, drawn to this spot thanks to the luminous quality of its light. Quiet tree-lined country lanes lead past fields to smokehouses with white chimneys around the coast, reminders of the island's past as a herring fishing hotspot.
It's a legend in Danish terms for all these reasons and more: here are just five ways to get the most from the Danes' favourite island.
With more than 140 miles of signposted cycle routes, Bornholm is made to be explored on two wheels. Some visitors bring their own bikes, others rent them on the island, where a variety of types are available, including trailers for kids, and electric bikes for those who need a little extra oomph.
The official routes cross from village to village, beach to heath and forest to farmland, stopping at key points of interest including local vineyards, smokehouses and the island's round whitewashed medieval churches. All the important things, in other words, because a cycle tour of Bornholm is about getting much more than miles under your belt: it's a cultural tour with local history and food thrown in too.
The 64-mile Route 10 loops all the way round the edge of the island on gravel, coastal, and forest tracks, with the Baltic Sea on your left as you go. Experienced cyclists are said to complete it in four to five hours, but why rush when the joy is in the journey?
Bornholm's rugged cliffs and ruined castle give a little hint of how this island once was a haunt of medieval pirates and Viking plunderers. Today, coastal life is peaceful, with sea kayaking and paddleboarding popular ways to explore the island's beaches and discover caves and coves you can't reach on foot.
Perhaps the best sea-going challenge is the circumnavigation of the island. Guides are available and kayaks can be rented on the island; all you have to do is decide which direction to tackle it in.
If you're more interested in being under the water than on top of it, northern Europe's largest wreck, Fu Shan Hai, lies just offshore, and you can take diving and snorkelling trips on the island too.
Pack some local smoked herring in your rucksack – it makes a great packed lunch with a chunk of local bread – and set off on one of Bornholm's beautiful trails. Whether you're going from fishing village to fishing village, or tackling the entire 75-mile coastal path, it's a great way to experience the island. There's a guide to hiking on the island that outlines everything from short hikes ideal for families to longer routes taking you past fields of cattle and into woodland dells.
What makes hiking on Bornholm special is its dreamy peacefulness. It's a calm place: limited traffic means you can hear the waves on the shoreline before you even reach the dunes, and nature roams free, with rabbits hopping along the ruts in newly ploughed fields and pheasants strutting in the forests.
With more than 400 secured climbing trails, Bornholm is one of Denmark's most popular spots for climbers. Bolted tracks in the cliffs of the quarries at Moseløkken and Ringebakkerne offer easy-to-follow routes, while bouldering can be found along the Ørnebjerg coast.
If you're interested in giving climbing a try, Klatring Bornholm is one of a number of operators that offers guided climbs, training and rappelling experiences for children as young as six. Join the team on coastal routes, finding footholds in the cliffs high above the waves, or abseiling down the 45-metre granite rock face beside the Opal Lake. It's quite the experience to hang in mid air over the cliff, suspended high above the treetops, with the sea stretching out below.
Bornholm's landscape packs a lot in for such a small island. Between Tejn and Gudhjem, on the north coast, the Sanctuary Cliffs stand out – sharp granite cliffs reaching up to 22 metres with deep caves between them that you can explore by boat. From there, a short drive or walk away, you'll find old forests with rivers running through them, the jewel-blue Opal Lake, a remnant of a granite quarry, plus cosy villages with ice-cream parlours and sandy beaches.
You'll find bison grazing in the middle of the island, sand so fine it's used in hourglasses in the south, and the 10-mile long Echo Valley, which stretches along the island. Shout into the stillness and hear Bornholm call back. Perhaps the best view overall, however, is from the ruins of Hammershus Castle as the sun is setting.
Discover the island where nature, history and creativity meet, and possibly where your next great adventure begins