Earl Ninsom Marries Thai Tradition with Portland's Seasonal Ingredients
Earl Ninsom has always strived to highlight interesting flavors and textures in his Thai dishes—unique from those he saw popularized in their Americanized forms at Thai restaurants across the United States.
At Portland, Ore.'s Langbaan, Ninsom's most critically acclaimed restaurant, the menu changes every couple of months. Each new dish attempts to honor the traditional Thai cooking Ninsom grew up with in Bangkok—as well as the Thai cooking he didn't grow up with, from diverse regions of the country.
This spring, the restaurant's five-course tasting menu centers on Thai street food, and features skewers plated in a beautiful one-bite fashion, as well as a catfish dish featuring spicy fresno peppers and sweet coconut cream.
Ninsom uses seasonal fruits and vegetables from the Portland area, infusing the sweet with the spicy, matching the herbaceous with the sour. In this way, Langbaan is quintessentially Thai—but also quintessentially of the Pacific Northwest.
Opened in 2014, Langbaan is certainly Ninsom's most praised restaurant among critics, earning acclaim as both the first Portland restaurant and the first Thai restaurant to be awarded the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant. But Ninsom has developed and co-owns seven Thai restaurants in Portland, curating exciting menus, each spotlighting a different style of regional Thai cooking.
There are the two locations for Hat Yai, Ninsom's affordable and casual walk-in spot, which features fried chicken curry roti, paying homage to the food of southern Thailand, where his father was born. There's also 2020 James Beard Award finalist Eem, a Thai barbeque and cocktails joint that he co-owns with two other people, which has earned a reputation for its distinctive Thai-style Texas barbecue flavors.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Miami Herald
9 hours ago
- Miami Herald
This Miami restaurant has a Michelin star and an award-winning chef. Now it's closing
Another Michelin-starred Miami restaurant is closing, this one from a celebrated James Beard Award-winning chef. Itamae Ao, the stunning 10-seat Peruvian-Japanese restaurant in Midtown from Chef Nando Chang, has announced that it's closing, with the final service Saturday, Aug. 2. The announcement comes a month after Maty's, the Peruvian restaurant operated by Chang's sister Valerie, also a James Beard Award winner, shut down. Itamae Ao's future was immediately uncertain: It's accessed through the adjoining Maty's space, and with Maty's closure, there was no way for customers to enter the smaller restaurant. Chang, who said he is looking for a new home for his award-winning concept, said he was grateful for 'the great run we've had in this special space.' 'Itamae AO has always been closely tied to Maty's — not just because my sister was its chef but because it literally serves as the entrance to our restaurant,' he said. 'When she stepped away, we knew it would soon be time for us to move on as well. Itamae AO isn't going away, and I'm excited to find our new home.' This summer, while he actively seeks a new space, Chang plans to take Itamae on the road with pop-ups in Milwaukee and New York City. The Changs entered the Miami restaurant industry with their father Fernando, operating the original Itamae counter at a Design District food hall. Later, they opened the restaurant as a standalone. Valerie Chang went on to open Maty's, earning the James Beard Award for Best Chef: South in 2024; her brother earned the same award in 2025, a two months after Itamae Ao earned a Michelin star. The guide praised Chang's skill with classic Peruvian-Japanese flavors. 'Searing levels of acidity and spice figure prominently on this bold tasting menu, often in the form of leche de tigre,' the guide says. 'From lobster bisque with sweet potato gnocchi to creamy rice with Hokkaido scallops and parmesan, the cooking possesses style and substance in spades.' At the Michelin ceremony in Orlando, Chang delivered an emotional speech, thanking his family and the city where he has found a home. 'I want to say I could not be prouder . . . to be a part of this beautiful country,' he said. 'Thank you, America, and thank you, Miami. ' He also thanked the James Beard Foundation for their commitment to diversity: 'All food is immigrant and immigrants make America great.'
Eater
10 hours ago
- Eater
Burrito Beach Marks 30 Years With Limited Edition Burritos From a Power-Packed Chef Lineup
is the James Beard Award-winning regional editor for Eater's Midwest region, and in charge of coverage in Chicago, Detroit, and the Twin Cities. He's a native Chicagoan and has been with Eater since 2014. Homegrown restaurant chains don't often last three decades in Chicago, but that's the milestone Burrito Beach will celebrate this summer. The quick-service chain — with seven locations in places like Lincoln Park and inside Northwestern Memorial Hospital's food court — has endured, giving Chicagoans options that cover a variety of dietary needs. Over those 30 years, Burrito Beach CEO and founder Greg Schulson has seen Chicago's understanding of Mexican food grow as he witnessed the rise of local chefs who proved to Midwesterners that there was more to Mexican food than just burritos and tacos. Burrito Beach's first location opened in 1995 at Lake and Dearborn, and it started as an assembly-line wrap concept. Though Chicago has a large Mexican community, chains often defined what Mexican food was to many outsiders. Chicago knows names like Pepe's and Chi-Chi's, but more casual options, like Taco Bell and Chipotle, which was founded in 1993, cast long shadows. Burrito Beach debuted with an emphasis on wraps, tiptoeing around using the word 'burrito,' a word with very specific connotation to locals in the '90s. Late-night lines routinely formed after the bars closed at places like Taco Burrito Palace No. 2, and recent college grads expected gut bombs with 'burritos as big as your head' from dives like La Bamba. 'I came up with this idea of, sort of this gourmet burrito concept that kind of took, like the spices and the flavors of Mexico and sort of the creativity of California, and we put them together,' Schulson says. 'And that was effectively what a wrap was back then.' As Americans began folding Mexican cuisine into everyday life rather than treating burritos and tacos as specialty items, Schulson says Burrito Beach ditched the wraps and embraced being a 'Mexican grill,' which served affordable food with better ingredients: 'We really do cooking at our restaurants,' Schulson says. '...I don't think a lot of our competitors necessarily do.' Affordability is especially important now, even as Trump's tariffs threaten to increase prices: 'No one wants to pay $17 for a burrito,' Schulson adds. This 2002 photo featured an all-star lineup of chefs who collaborated with Burrito Beach. Burrito Beach would also collaborate in 2002 with local chefs on limited-edition items. Chefs like Publican chef Paul Kahan and Spring chef Shawn McLain crafted their own burritos. To mark the 30th anniversary, Kahan is again teaming up with Burrito Beach, along with Thattu chef Margaret Pak and Parachute chef Beverly Kim (see below). Proceeds will benefit a charity of the chefs' choice, and the promotions go from August through January. Burrito Beach's recipes come from David Schy, a former corporate chef with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises who worked under legendary chef Jean Banchet as a cook at Le Francais in suburban Wheeling. He's come up with ideas like a current special, a fried fish taco inspired by a Chicago dog. Somedays they'll offer barbecue beef or Buffalo chicken. Schulson, a native of suburban Glencoe, is a past chairman of the Illinois Restaurant Association. He's aware of dining trends and news. He indirectly mentions a 2017 story out of Portland, Oregon, when a pair of white women closed their burrito shop after they bragged about stealing recipes from Mexican women. The story drew cries of cultural appropriation, and that's something Schulson is sensitive toward. 'We're not pretending to be something we're not,' Schulson says, noting items like a Buffalo chicken bowl are far from traditional. 'I grew up loving Mexican food… I could eat this food every day. I'm not Mexican, but it doesn't mean I don't love the food, it doesn't mean I don't care about doing it right.' Chef Paul Kahan's spicy steak burrito with marinated sirloin steak, Guajillo chile sauce, white rice, black beans, pico de gallo, pickled red onions, and whole cilantro. Burrito Beach/Kristen Mendiola Media Thattu chef Margaret Pak's burrito with masala Kashmiri chile char-grilled chicken, tamarind-date chutney, garlic confit raita, white rice, cilantro slaw, and pickled red onions. Chef Beverly Kim's bibimbap steak burrito with thin-sliced bulgogi, kimchi fried rice, chipotle-gochujang, marinated cabbage, and pickled red onions. Burrito Beach/Kristen Mendiola Media Burrito Beach 30th Anniversary Celebrity Chef Burritos Starting in August, Burrito Beach will celebrate 30 years with special limited-time-only burritos from Paul Kahan, Margaret Pak, and Beverly Kim. For Kahan, the One Off Hospitality co-founder, it represents a return as he was a part of a collaboration back in 1993. Pak, chef and owner at Thattu in Avondale, will follow. Pak's connection comes through her love of Ketch On Fire, a spicy ketchup brand in which Greg Schulson and chef David Schy are partners. Pak's first food job was with the brand, and it grew out of passion; she caught the company's attention after maintaining an unauthorized fan page. Parachute HiFi's Beverly Kim rounds out the chef lineup. Kim lacks a direct connection to the brand, but Schulson and company have long been fans of Kim's Michelin-starred Korean American food. See details of the three burritos below. Proceeds will benefit a charity of the chef's choice Paul Kahan's spicy steak burrito, available from Monday, August 4, through the end of September. Margaret Pak's masala chicken burrito, available from October through November. Beverly Kim's bibimbap steak burrito, available from December through January.
Forbes
10 hours ago
- Forbes
Portland's Buzz: A New, Luxe Thermal Hotel And Must-Try Restaurants
Eem, a very Portland style fusion of different cuisines-here Thai and BBQ located in the city's Alberta Arts District. Justin Katigbak Wild, fanciful murals are everywhere—on the bicycle shop, a parking lot, the patios of bars-mixed in with a totally eclectic mix of bookstores, galleries, cafes for coffee and multinational cuisines and a marijuana shop. Alberta Street, the main thoroughfare of Portland's Alberta Arts District is such a funky/interesting/colorful stretch that you expect to see Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein ambling by. (The stars of the amiable TV satire Portlandia for those who've never watched.) The exterior of CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. Jeremy Bitterman On the western edge of the street, the corner of 11th and Alberta, a very serious, very modern building opened in March: CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. The first hospitality project by Solterra, a company specializing in sustainable buildings, it might be an outlier in the neighborhood's style with its sleek, contemporary look but its spirit is definitely in sync. The swimming pool at the tropically heated Conservatory at CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel Key to the hotel is that sustainability; every aspect of it is of cutting edge, environmentally friendly composition and function, earning it status as LEED Platinum (solar power, rainwater harvesting, energy efficient lighting and much more.) What is more visible to guests, though, are the cossetting setting and the extensive wellness facilities starting with a 32 foot long pool in the Conservatory bordered by a 25 foot wall of rare plants and maintained at 82 degrees. Not surprisingly, it invites socializing while draped poolside on loungers. The lower level Sanctuary with four thermal pools at CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel A floor below is the dark, atmospheric Sanctuary with its centerpiece the hydrotherapy circuit comprised of four thermal pools of varying temperatures (one enhanced with trace minerals and magnesium) with water emanating from the pristine rivers and streams of the Bull Run Watershed east of Portland, then heated and purified with state of the art technology. Around the pools are a hammam, steam room, ice fountain and treatment rooms for rituals combining European, Mayan and Middle Eastern elements with botanicals and advanced techniques. There's also an outdoor Secret Garden with another pool, cold shower and café as well as a daily roster of fitness and wellness options such as sound healing, breathwork, pilates and infrared, flow, and power yoga. A suite living room with sustainable upholstery at CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel Upstairs, the 100 black/white/grey rooms in contemporary, minimalist style also mirror the sustainable focus with materials such as recycled cork furniture upholstery (which is smooth and comfortable) and wool, fire-retardant mattresses. There are also features such as kitchens and washer-dryers which encourage long stays and balconies for hanging out and watching the goings on in the neighborhood. Portuguese/Japanese Cuisine At Terra Mae Oregon Black Cod with a red palm coconut seafood broth at Terra Mae. CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel The restaurant, Terra Mae, a fusion of Portuguese and Japanese cuisine, is already a Portland favorite and one unusually open on a Tuesday night; some top restaurants in town are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. The room is buzzing and the menu creative without being crazy: really delicious dishes such as Dumplings with the Portuguese pork sausage Linguiça, leeks, cabbage, peri-peri chili crisp, curry, scallion and black garlic; Mentaiko Udon, the chewy Japanese wheat noodles with spicy pollock roe, garlic, cream, soy cured egg yolk and garlic furikake, a salty Japanese seasoning; Wasabi Salad of King neighborhood pea tendrils, edible blossom, tempura flakes and creamy wasabi dressing and a Fisherman's Stew with Black Cod, miso, tiger prawns and clams in a rich seafood broth. The Lobby Coffee Bar The lobby of CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel. CASCADA Thermal Springs + Hotel The hotel also has a lobby level café Alberta Street Coffee for coffee and croissants or muffins in the morning along with a grab and go case of sandwiches, salads, prepared foods and cheeses; the restaurant Forbidden Fruit is due to open in October for breakfast and brunch. In the meantime, Alberta Street is studded with other options as is Portland, overall, regarded as the top culinary center of the Pacific Northwest. Alberta Street Breakfast Spots Three blocks away, Mèmoire Cà Phê, the Vietnamese brunch café started by three friends as an homage to their parents celebrates the food they shared with them when they were growing up such as Đặc Biệt Waffle, a waffle with fish sauce, bacon, fried egg, arugula, crunchy stuff, scallion, and spicy syrup and pastries such as matcha cinnamon rolls. The Australian Proud Mary Café veers from spins on breakfast classics such as Ricotta Hotcakes (in theirs: lemon chamomile syrup, blueberries &raspberries, yogurt & white chocolate namelaka, poppyseeds, pistachio cookie crumble plus flowers) to sausage rolls and a pulled pork sando with gochujang & fish sauce braised pork, daikon,cilantro, carrot, red cabbage, pickled onion, miso aioli, sesame seed bun, and chili cukes. The Tin Shed Garden Café patio, setting for dogs accompanying their humans for lunch or dinner Laurie Werner For more traditional choices, The Tin Shed Garden Café is popular for breakfast dishes such as Fetch, a bacon, tomato and green onion scramble over potato cakes or cheese grits served with a homemade buttermilk biscuit and sandwiches such as Salmon & Spice: Blackened Alaskan Sockeye with pepperjack, roasted red peppers, arugula, red onion and chipotle aioli on a grilled potato bun. Guests' dogs are encouraged to accompany their humans on the patio; they have their own dish on the menu, Fido Food: free range chicken thighs and sweet potatoes. Italian and Hawaiian Cuisine on Alberta Street Salmon poke, Kalua pig and Mac salad at Kau Kau. Laurie Werner Two popular restaurants also settled on the street after stints as a pop up and food cart. Gumba, a handmade pasta specialist moved in after four years as a food cart five years ago. Oahu raised couple Brandon and Tracee Hirahara opened Kau Kau on the street in February serving family recipes for Hawaiian specialties such as Loco Moco, Kalua Pig, Lomi Salmon and an elevated crunchy, sweet and spicy mac salad. Locals favorite: Cafe Olli A few blocks away but still in the neighborhood, Café Olli, recently anointed one of the 25 best Portland restaurants by the New York Times, is a locals' favorite not just for what they serve but for the overall spirit of the place due to their employee-owned, generous benefit laden democracy. (A 20% health and wellness fee is added to checks in order to pay employees a living wage and offer health care coverage.) Open all day, it's known for house made baguettes, ricotta toast, crisp pizzas, particularly the Pomodoro, and in the evening, pastas such as chitarra with sungold sauce, garlic, basil, chili and Parmigiano. Eem: A Successful Thai/BBQ Fusion Sweet & Sour Fried Chicken at Eem. Justin Katigbak Down the street, Eem, open for lunch and dinner every day, is the result of three major Portland chefs joining forces: Chef Earl Ninsom (Langbaan, Paadee), Matt Vicedomini (Matt's BBQ) and Eric Nelson (Shipwreck) with the result a mix of Thai and BBQ that produces deeply flavored, exciting food. Among the choices: Green Curry with Crispy Pulled Pork, roasted cauliflower, lime leaf, oyster mushroom, coconut cream, green onion and fried shallot and Smoked Pork Krapao with pork belly burnt ends, Thai basil and fried egg. But the dish that regulars order again and again, for good reason, is White Curry with Brisket Burnt-ends with roasted cauliflower, coconut cream and green onion. It is that delicious. A New Wine Spa A soak in local wine at Portland's Wine Spa. The Wine Spa Given its proximity to the Willamette Valley, a day trip to sample the region's famous Pinot Noirs is easy to do. But even easier is to soak in and drink some of that wine while in town. Owner Kelly Lewis opened The Wine Spa last fall after trying out vinotherapy in Eastern Europe and discovering the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits. Making deals with local vineyards which have unsaleable wine due to bottling errors or overproduction allows the use of at least a bottle and half per soak plus an additional glass to enjoy. The result is immediate relaxation (a massage helps too), a perfect end to a day running around town. MORE FROM FORBES Forbes Inside Maui's Adults-Only Hotel Wailea: Serenity And Exquisite Cuisine By Laurie Werner Forbes Exciting New Flavors And An Atmospheric Inn Open In New Orleans By Laurie Werner Forbes Stylish, Delicious New Hotels And Restaurants In Washington, D.C. By Laurie Werner Forbes How To Spend 3 Perfect Days In Québec City By Laurie Werner
