A tiny mountain hamlet keeps traditional log rafting afloat
The raft plunges into the rapids, followed by a wave of water washing over the 20 passengers, who laugh and whoop with excitement. They said we'd get wet — and they weren't wrong.
With a population of less than 400, the tiny village of Kitayama is the only place in Japan where you can experience traditional ikada-kudari (log rafting). It's been on my radar for some years — I enjoy adrenaline-packed activities such as bungee jumping, tandem paragliding, canyoning and abseiling, but this was something unique: a natural rollercoaster through a remote gorge steeped in centuries of forestry history.
In between the adventurous parts of the hour-long trip, there is plenty of time to sit down and soak in the surroundings aboard the raft: the emerald-green river, dramatic rock formations and waterfalls cascading down cliffs. Then, whenever we approach sections of rapids, the call goes out: 'Everybody up!' This certainly makes it more thrilling for the riders, but more importantly, it's easier for the raft to be steered and balanced, as our ikadashi (raft drivers) swiftly navigate the river, leaping from log to log as if it's second nature.
During the rafting season, crews lash together logs and install seats and railings every morning. |
KITAYAMA VILLAGE
Earlier that morning, I'd watched the day's rafts being carefully lowered, section by section, into the river by crane, where they were then fitted with seats and handrails for the passengers. This painstaking work, repeated each morning during the rafting season that runs from May through September, is overseen by Masayuki Yamamoto, the president of Kitayama Shinko, the company commissioned by Kitayama to operate rafting as a tourism activity.
'We're protecting the landscape and nature of Kitayama,' Yamamoto says. 'Our mission is to preserve this long-standing tradition.'
The remote hamlet's ikada-kudari dates back over 600 years, when the Kitayama River was the only viable route for transporting lumber from the forested mountains to the urban centers of Kansai. Kitayama's high-quality cedar was sought after by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, unifier of Japan in the late 16th century, for building his strongholds, creating a boom in timber transport. As the use of rafts to transport lumber increased, the practice of ikada-kudari was formalized in the 17th century, with a systemized distribution network put in place.
At its peak, there were several hundred ikadashi in Kitayama. Logs were felled in the mountains and then rolled down the slopes, where they were tied together into long rafts. Drivers would then guide the lumber more than 60 kilometers downstream to the port of Shingu on Wakayama's southeastern coast, a journey that usually took two to three days. They made the return journey on foot, carrying their oars with them.
It takes about three years of training to become a full-fledged "ikadashi" raft driver. |
KITAYAMA VILLAGE
The men who undertook this dangerous work were well paid for braving the currents to guide the massive rafts down the river. A local story surrounds the naming of Otonori, the starting point of the rafting trips. The original meaning was 'younger brother riding' — a reference to how families preferred to send off a younger son, deeming the job too risky for a precious oldest son and heir.
The last rafts of commercial lumber went down the river in 1965. Roads had improved by then, making it more practical to transport logs overland. However, the tradition didn't disappear. In 1979, Kitayama launched sightseeing raft rides as part of a regional revitalization project, ensuring the legacy would float on in a new form.
'Luckily, some of the former log riders were still around, and they passed on their skills to a new generation,' says Yamamoto, who has been riding the rafts for more than 30 years and now heads a team of 16 ikadashi.
He says that the job isn't just about physical strength. Teamwork and keeping a cool head are important for being a good river runner, too.
'The conditions are always changing in this job, so it keeps you on your toes,' he says.
The log rafting season in Kitayama runs from May through September. |
KITAYAMA VILLAGE
Nevertheless, customs are evolving. In August 2024, 21-year-old Moko Ono made history when she joined Kitayama Shinko to become Kitayama's first-ever female ikadashi. Although the former gym instructor from Shingu had never actually ridden the rafts before, she responded to a call for new drivers based on the appeal of an active job outdoors, even though she admits that her mother wasn't keen on the idea in the beginning.
'Before I started the job, we took a test ride together,' Ono says. 'She was a bit worried, asking if I'd really be able to do this since it's a physically demanding job, and there are risks like falling off the raft. But she respected my decision and now she understands my wishes.'
As Ono approaches her first work anniversary, she still has some way to go before completing the three years of training required to become a full-fledged ikadashi, but she says she hopes to see more women joining the ranks in the future.
Outside of the rafting season, the ikadashi work other jobs, and Ono can often be found behind the wheel of the village bus, ferrying schoolchildren and seniors who can no longer drive. Some of her colleagues take part in forestry and conservation work or help with cultivation of jabara, a distinctive citrus fruit and Kitayama's other major industry. Native to Kitayama, jabara has a bold, tangy flavor that falls somewhere between an orange and a lemon, making it popular for use in products like jams, sauces, sweets and juices. Ono recommends a ponzu-style local product called Japon, which she says goes perfectly in nabe (hot pot) dishes or as a dipping sauce for gyōza dumplings.
"Ikadashi" drivers use long poles to guide the log rafts down the Kitayama River. |
KITAYAMA VILLAGE
Kitayama has another unique distinction as Japan's only 'enclave village': though officially part of Wakayama, it is entirely surrounded by Mie and Nara prefectures. When Japan's feudal domains transitioned into modern prefectures, Shingu was aligned with modern-day Wakayama, so Kitayama chose to follow suit because of the historical and economic ties to its neighbor down the river.
At the end of our trip, I join my fellow passengers on the bus that ferries tourists between the Kitayama Village Tourism Center and the rafting departure point. A change of clothes and a welcome dip in the onsen (hot spring) await at the neighboring hotel, which is open to day-trippers as well as overnight guests. I'm dripping wet, but my enthusiasm for the experience — and the enduring history it represents — is undampened.
Kitayama's log rafting runs twice daily on weekends in May and June, and then daily except for Thursdays through the end of September. Riders must be between the ages of 10 and 75 and in good health.
Rides cost ¥7,700 for adults and ¥3,300 for children under 12. Advance reservations are required. Due to the remote location, an overnight stay is recommended. For more information, visit the Kitayama Village website .
Travel and accommodation for this story were provided by Wakayama Prefecture. No portion of this story was shared with any third party prior to publication.
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