Yay for T-Bay!

Winnipeg Free Press

07-06-2025

Peering out our Thunder Bay waterfront hotel window, I exclaimed, 'There's a big guy sleeping out here! No. Maybe he's dead!'
Margie rushed to see, imploring 'Where?'
I pointed to Lake Superior's famous landform — The Sleeping Giant.
photos by Gord Mackintosh / Free Press
Even perfect sunrises don't awaken the Sleeping Giant.
'I fell for that!?' she growled.
We drove from Winnipeg to Thunder Bay this April. After many kilometres of moose pasture east of Dryden — we counted 22 moose 'Night Danger' signs — the Nor'Wester Mountains rise ahead. The flat-topped range impresses with myriad shapes and sheer cliffs. To Prairie drivers, it's the Rockies in half the time.
Kakabeka Falls then stuns. To Prairie drivers, it's Niagara Falls in one-third the time. Upstream spruce bogs infuse its roaring golden waters. In April, enjoy the bonus of ice-packed canyon walls — and no park fees. After May 9, walk in backwards. Wait — that might not go well here.
Thunder Bay's Current River rushes violently. To witness kilometre-long rapids, carefully follow Cascades Conservation Area's Yellow Trail. You've wrongly meandered onto the Green Trail if the rapids' rumbling becomes fainter — duh, Gord.
Downstream, Trowbridge Falls surges. Unlike mid-July camping memories of lazing in these rapids, spring runoff would sweep me and my koozie down to Boulevard Lake's beach. Below Boulevard's dam, glittering cascades enthrall.
Folks fish from urban rivers.
Off Central Avenue, I asked a fisher casting in the McIntyre River, 'Whatcha fishin' for? Old rubbers?' The surprising reply: 'Steelhead trout.' I told Margie, 'They fish those with magnets.'
Golden waters roar at Kakabeka Falls.
Thunder Bay lies on the world's biggest freshwater lake.
Despite grand vistas with spectacular sunrises, Superior's lakefront has been crowded with trains, grain elevators and industry. Even the ol' Sea-Vue Motel backs onto Maki's Diesel Repair.
But now behold lakeside marinas, walkways, public art. A waterfront art gallery opens soon.
Moreover, the new eight-storey Delta hopefully signals the arrival of modern, full-service, shoreline hotels. Room numbers ending in 01, 02 or 04 offer 'Superior' views.
Drive east to reflect at the Terry Fox Monument and vista.
Westward, pay $10 for the drive-up view from Mount McKay. The Best Western Nor'Wester provides mountain views from even-numbered suites. Better yet, dine with a panorama at The Neebing Roadhouse.
The McIntyre River brings steelhead trout into the city.
Try yummy Neebing Firebombs. Then cruise into the mountain-framed Slate River Valley for Thunder Oak Cheese Farm curds. Exclaim, 'No whey!'
Thunder Bay offers three unusual regional dishes: Finnish pancakes, Coney burgers and Persians.
Among Finn pancake eateries, we chose, yes, Kangas Sauna. With 18 sauna rooms for rent, the restaurant section attracts chatty folks, including a snoopy couple arguing about what's best: pancakes with strawberries and whipped cream, or with syrup and bacon. But it's not as if we were yelling.
Our friendly server delivered a pun, likely unwittingly. Seeing my almost-devoured layer of four crepe-like pancakes, she asked, 'You gonna Finnish it some more?'
Coney burgers mean toppings of meat chili, mustard and onions. Among several joints, we adored these darlings at Westfort's Coney Island and the misnamed McKellar Confectionery. There, gregarious owner George Kelos reminded me that meat chili burgers migrated from this city to Winnipeg where, with more toppings added by the Scouras brothers, Manitoba's iconic Fat Boy emerged.
Persians are fried dough with subtly baked-in cinnamon covered in pink frosting. At Holland Bakery, a fellow seeking Persians at 10:30 a.m. was told, 'Sold out!' He replied, 'Ya gotta be quick with Persians!'
At The Persian Man, I asked owner Danny Nucci, 'What's your frosting recipe? Raspberry or strawberry and what?' Danny merrily replied, 'If I tell you, I have to kill you.' I said, 'See ya!' A pal later deduced, 'It tastes pinky.'
Mount McKay, or Animiki-wajiw (Thunder Mountain), looms over Thunder Bay.
I joyously devoured The Sweet North Bakery's Persian frosting-stuffed cruffin (a croissant-muffin mix), licked Merla Mae's Persian ice cream, and sipped Dawson Trail Brewery's Persian-inspired ale.
Seeing Sleeping Giant Brewing's huge beer bottle display, I asked, 'How many bottles of beer on the wall?' Staff wisecracked, 'No idea. You might wanna count 'em!' We couldn't spare the afternoon, but thankfully bought its Beaver Duck Session IPA. A beaver duck is a beaver donning a duck hat with handy straps.
Thunder Bay delivers more bewilderment. Many street names change while you're driving — one eight times. Winnipeg Avenue boasts four separate sections. And at several major crossroads, street name signs are missing. That's when Margie asked, 'What's this 'Map' function on our dashboard?'
The Holiday Inn Motel is unrelated to the lodging chain. Don't expect nips at The Sal. Plus, Thunder Bay 'nips' are gravy-covered burgers. 'Socials' are 'shags.' 'Backpacks' are 'pack sacks.' 'Cottages' are 'camps.'
For shopping, local vendors cram Country Market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and Goods and Co. from Wednesday to Sunday. And Fort William First Nation sells gas up to 27 cents a litre cheaper. K&A Variety has 32 pumps! Inside, cashiers bark out pump numbers. Yell, 'Bingo!'
To get there, navigate the super-skinny James Street Swing Bridge. Margie almost touched its sides. This must be a dream for local auto shops. Hey — should they have names like Half-Way Motors? Mid City Collision? Gore Motors?
GORD MACKINTOSH / FREE PRESS
Likely a half-hour's supply of Persians at The Persian Man.
And then there's Dusty's Car Care.
As for the Sleeping Giant, Delta staff assured, 'Someday, maybe he'll wake up!' Don't miss it.
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