Squaredish Pizza review: A new deep-dish spot lands on St Stephen's Green
Address
:
25 St Stephen's Green, Dublin, D02 XF99
Telephone
:
N/A
Cuisine
:
Detroit Italian
Website
:
Cost
:
€€
What's on offer?
Opened on May 1st, Squaredish Pizza is a new Detroit-style deep-dish outfit from husband-and-wife team Andrew Eakin and Naomi Murtagh – both with backgrounds in hospitality and design. They've brought in chef Jimmy Dobson, whose 15-year career includes
Chapter One
, Dinner by Heston, Potager, Clanbrassil House, As One, and two stints at Pichet – most recently as sous chef.
Dobson spent the past year developing the menu and dough, which is cold-proved for 48–72 hours using Caputo yeast and Andrew's Premium Spring flour from the North. Pizzas are cooked in ventless Altoshaam vector ovens – programmable, extraction-free and capable of hitting 260 degrees.
The menu includes pizza slices, fried chicken made with Rings Farm free-range birds, and house-prepped sides. The core line is fixed, with seasonal changes every three to four months.
It's a dine-in restaurant as much as a takeaway – pizzas are prepped in plain view, with the menu displayed above the counter.
READ MORE
What did we order?
Seven pizza slices: pepperoni, red top, hot square, sausage and pepper, mushroom, veggie squared, and it's corn; plus Korean fried chicken.
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How was the service?
Service is pleasant. You order at a touchscreen and wait for your name to be called.
Was the food nice?
The pizza slices have a focaccia-style base and are all topped with marinara – there are no white pizza options. This is where my issue lies. The marinara, used across all slices, isn't cooked out (a good thing), yet has a concentrated, tomato purée-like intensity that tends to overpower the other ingredients.
The sausage and pepper slice – with Italian fennel sausage, jalapeños and pickled pepper drops – was a favourite, as was the veg square with artichoke and a generous smear of black olive tapenade.
Pepperoni at Squaredish Pizza
Red Top with Cheese at Squaredish Pizza
Garlic Bread at Squaredish Pizza
The mushroom slice with salsa and rocket held its own. and the pepperoni was as expected. The hot square – 'nduja with chilli honey – is on nearly every menu in Dublin, so no surprise here. The creamed corn was similar to the OG in
Reggie's
, but again the intense tomato sauce threw the balance. The red top (a Margherita) had the same issue with the sauce.
The fried chicken – free-range thigh, buttermilk brined – had a crisp coating and stayed juicy inside.
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What about the packaging?
Everything is compostable or recyclable.
What did it cost?
€57 for lunch for three people. Pizza slices: pepperoni, €6.50; red top, €5.50; hot square, €7; sausage and pepper, €7; mushroom, €6.50; veggie squared, €6.50; and it's corn €6.50. Korean fried chicken, €11.50.
Where does it deliver?
Takeaway only, open daily, noon-9pm.
Would I order it again?
Yes, if I was in the area, but the focaccia slice at Bread 41 and
Doom
slice with its crisp cheesy crusts have the edge.
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