Isabel Marant Fall 2025: Heavy on Punk-inspired Tailoring, Layering and Leather
'You're in the right hands,' Marant said, breezing into the backstage looking and sounding like someone coming off a holistic recharge, explaining that she stepped back a bit from this one, but that it's in no way permanent.
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Bekker found inspiration in women (and men, because she showed menswear, too) who had their own fearless style. Joan Jett, Siouxsie Sioux and Johnny Rotten were on the mood board, as were fresh-faced photos of Kate Moss and Drew Barrymore. They all filtered through the '80s-'90s rock-'n'-roll mash-up of punk, grunge and a bit of new romantic that was heavy on layering and tailoring, leggy minis, leather, hardware and brooches.
'I'm quite surprised everyone is into the same vibe, but I think it's more that we feel we need to be strong again, to overcome things,' Bekker said judiciously when asked about fashion's latest flirtation with the antiestablishment to sell more clothes.
If there was anger, it didn't manifest on the Marant runway, where sex appeal is really the stock in trade. There was snatched tailoring — pin-striped power shoulder blazers and layerable waistcoats, itty bitty pin-striped HotPants and respectable trouser shorts, and a pin-striped body-con jumpsuit that was great looking.
Rock-'n'-roll leathers came in many forms, including buckled micro-minis, a great pullover and cool trenchcoat with silver grommet and piercing hardware details.
Punk plaids, fuzzy sweaters, sheer mesh tops and new romantic polka dots also made appearances, along with a couple of '80s va-va-voom very tight and short cocktail dresses. And even the men had a feminine side, with touches of silver embroidery, trailing polka-dot scarves, and mismatched color shoes.
The collection was loaded up with so many accessories, however — including lace and fishnet tights, belts, bags, scarves, safety pins and studs — that they detracted from the quality of design and overwhelmed a few of the looks, not to mention the senses. Then again, there was nothing quiet about punk. You have to go to an Ayurvedic retreat for that.
Launch Gallery: Isabel Marant Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
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New York Post
a day ago
- New York Post
Fashion model learning to be a man after being pushed to transition at age 15: ‘I was really crazy on the hormones'
In Catholic churches across Manhattan and Brooklyn, Salomé captivated the congregation, uplifting the faithful with her soulful singing and skilled organ playing. The New York Archdiocese Organist Training Program enrollee's musical gifts had her booking gigs across the city. But for years, Salomé's bashful smile and angelic voice concealed a secret — one not even known in the shadows of the confessional. She was a he; Salomé was born Miles. His story is one that's becoming all too familiar: A child with unconventional interests, swayed by strange ideologies on the Internet, is hustled by doctors into a life of medical dependency — only to find himself questioning everything years later. 8 Miles Yardley, aka Salome Evangelista, walks the runway at New York Fashion Week in 2023. Getty Images 'They very quickly put me on hormones without really any discernment. Looking back, if I were a doctor, I would think this is a much larger decision than the kid thinks that it is,' he tells The Post. Miles Yardley, as his female persona Salomé, arrived in the Big Apple in 2022 from his native Pennsylvania. He (then she) quickly became the toast of New York's downtown fashion scene. Yardley signed a modeling contract, was featured in a Marc Jacobs perfume ad shot by famed photographer Juergen Teller, exhibited for Enfants Riches Déprimés, and strutted Fashion Week runways for designers Batsheva and Elena Velez — all while singing in parishes and mentoring Catholic schoolchildren in music. Soon Yardley was a regular bohemian socialite, a fixture on podcasts, even flown to Romania to meet the Tate brothers, with virtually everyone unaware of Salomé's secret. 8 Yardley signed a modeling contract soon after moving to NYC in 2022. @DollPariah/X But a deepening Catholic faith and a medical scare led Yardley to question how he'd been living his life. Just as quickly as he'd burst onto the scene, early this year Yardley gave it all up and ditched Manhattan's trendy underbelly for a fresh start in sunny California. 'I had to move to LA to detransition because I was like, I don't want to have this conversation with people. I don't want to tell the people hiring me or the parents of the students that I teach that I'm actually a man. I just couldn't deal with that,' Yardley, now 27, tells The Post from his new home in Los Angeles. At 15, Yardley found himself a patient in the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia's gender clinic. He'd been late to start puberty and had interests in singing and dancing. Classmates began to ask if he was gay or a girl. He'd never heard of transgenderism. 'I had not questioned my own identity before other people started asking me questions and putting that on me,' he says. After only his second appointment, a Children's Hospital of Philadelphia doctor put Yardley on androgen blockers and later estrogen therapy, calling him 'the perfect example' of a transgender child. 8 Yardley left NYC for California to detransition. 'I was like, I don't want to have this conversation with people. I don't want to tell the people hiring me or the parents of the students that I teach that I'm actually a man. I just couldn't deal with that,' Yardley told The Post. John Chapple for NY Post 'I thought that there would be less social friction for me if I looked like a female because so many people were assuming me to be that way. And I was not super comfortable with people assuming I was gay,' Yardley says. For many years, everything seemed fine. He graduated from high school, taught music at a West Philadelphia Catholic school, and enrolled in Temple University to study music. In fact, he felt that being transgender gave him an edge. As a singer, his voice remained a soprano. He then met an in-crowder from New York who persuaded him to move to the city and pursue modeling — 'but only if you lose 20 pounds.' 'I think I benefited from the [trans] identity in terms of being a model, being a socialite, a party attendee in New York City, and it was a cool, cosmopolitan, artistic thing to be doing with your body,' Yardley says. 'I had entered a different world, where everyone thought I was really cool.' In April 2024, Yardley was diagnosed with pituitary adenoma — a type of brain tumor — and has hypothyroidism. Both conditions have suspected links to hormone therapy. 8 A 15-year-old Yardley was put on androgen blockers after just two visits to the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia. He's now suing the hospital for malpractice. JHVEPhoto – At the same time, Yardley was becoming closer to people at his church, which he found a welcome reprieve from the cattiness of couture life. 'I realized that I'm hurting myself. I'm poisoning myself. I'm sterilizing myself. The normal things that bring meaning to normal people's lives I'm shut off from because I can't have children in this state. I can't do the normal things that bring normal people meaning,' Yardley says of the moment he began to question the experts and trans ideology. 'When you're 15, you think, 'Well, I'm a weird person. I don't need to worry about that.' The long-term consequences were unimaginable to me.' Since quitting estrogen in January, he's come to recognize other negative side effects. 'I was really crazy on the hormones,' he said. 'I was mentally unstable and cognitively impaired. And generally fatigued, tired, not strong at all in ways that I'm only now coming to really understand.' 8 A deepening Catholic faith and medical issues led Yardley to question his transition. John Chapple for NY Post Yet the path has been a solitary one. The medical establishment abandoned Yardley on this new journey to live authentically. While doctors were all too eager to put him on life-changing medications, there's no protocol for what to do if a patient stops treatment. When that happens, doctors seem to simply lose interest. 'I've asked multiple doctors for advice, and they don't know what to do,' Yardley says on stopping hormone treatment, a process that 'makes you feel [physically] awful. It's been difficult.' 'They just say, 'You should ask someone else.' At a certain point, how many other people can I ask before I just figure it out on my own?' Even before President Trump's second term — in which the backlash against childhood gender transitioning has been swift and damning — the United Kingdom, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, and the Australian state of Queensland had moved to ban or restrict puberty blockers and cross-sex hormones for minors.x In a landmark June ruling, the US Supreme Court upheld a state ban on so-called gender-affirming care for minors. This month, the Department of Justice launched an investigation into more than 20 doctors and gender clinics for minors. The nation's largest youth-gender clinic, the Center for Transyouth Health and Development at Children's Hospital Los Angeles, closed up shop Tuesday, citing the Trump administration. 8 In April 2024, Yardley was diagnosed with pituitary adenoma — a type of brain tumor. He also has hypothyroidism. Both conditions have suspected links to hormone therapy. @DollPariah/X The White House also just announced it will cut federal funding for hospitals that provide minors with gender-transition procedures. Yardley has joined the fight, although he's never thought much of himself as an activist. He's suing the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia for medical malpractice. Yardley's hair is now cut short and dyed a brassy blond. He says both old friends and strangers are sometimes confused about how to address him — a problem he never had when he lived as Salomé. 'I've tried to enter the men's restroom a few times, where someone was like, 'Hey! The women's room's over there!' ' he says. 'It was super awkward. Nobody ever redirected me as a woman.' He doesn't know yet if his medicalized youth has rendered him permanently sterile. But it's not all gloom. 8 Yardley says doctors have been of little help as he's detransitioned and stopped taking hormones. John Chapple for NY Post At his new home, Yardley has started a band, Pariah the Doll (he's calling the debut album 'Castrato'), and launched a clothing line, Eunuch for the Kingdom. He'd like to meet a nice Catholic girl and settle down — but he's also preparing for a life of celibacy, should it come to that. 'Having spent 10 years in the female role, I don't really know how to be a man. That's a scary jump for me,' Yardley tells The Post. Still, he holds no ill-will toward those who set him off on this course — and that includes his own mother. 'I wouldn't even say that she was supportive of it. It was just, like most parents, she trusted doctors because if you are a boomer, like she is, you have no reason to distrust doctors. Their legitimacy is pretty firm in your mind as someone of that generation. So I don't blame her.' 8 A bright spot in Yardley's new life has been starting a band called Pariah the Doll. The debut album is 'Castrato.' Spotify As for those doctors, Yardley is surprisingly merciful. 'I don't believe, as a Christian, that people are setting out to do evil for evil's sake. I don't think anyone has that in their heart,' he said. 'But I think it has a lot to do with an overreach of professionals and a lot to do with money. Hospitals make a lot of money from these procedures. They benefit from having lifelong patients, which is what transgender people are. You need the hormones to maintain the identity.' If he could go back, would he change any of it? 'There's no way to live your life without making mistakes or going down the wrong path,' Yardley says. 'My life would be totally different if I made different decisions at 15 years old, so I can't really conceive of a different path. I don't live in a regret state. In many ways, I'm extraordinary lucky.' He does, however, wish that doctors would learn to be more open-minded. 'If you're a gender-nonconforming kid, you should be allowed to be yourself. I think that was the biggest problem. I didn't feel like I could be confident in who I was. And if that person happens to like singing and dancing and cooking and Barbie dolls, who really cares? You can be a boy who likes that,' Yardley says. 'At the time, nobody in my life told me that was possible.'
Yahoo
2 days ago
- Yahoo
Sydney Sweeney just sent this American stock soaring
A US clothing brand has seen its share price surge in a 'memestock' frenzy after announcing an advertising campaign featuring actress Sydney Sweeney. Clothing brand American Eagle Outfitters saw its stock jump as much as 12pc in New York after it announced that the Euphoria and The White Lotus actress would star in a new advertising push. The surge added nearly $228m (£168m) to its market value. Ms Sweeney will appear in a campaign for its winter denim collection that includes a limited-edition jacket as well as 'The Sydney Jean'. While advertising campaigns can and do influence a company's performance and Ms Sweeney is one of the most recognisable actresses in the US, analysts said the scale of the share price jump was untethered from reality. The sharp upswing comes after the retailer gained attention on Reddit's WallStreetBets, a forum known for fuelling so-called extreme rallies in the share prices of so-called memestocks. Memestocks are companies where the share price is driven by social media hype and online communities, rather than the company's fundamental financial performance. The phenomenon emerged during the pandemic as people turned to trading as a way to entertain themselves during lockdowns. 'Gamblification' of stock markets The term memestock was coined after companies including GameStop and Blackberry saw their share prices surge in 2021 despite little in the way of updates about their underlying performance. The vertiginous rally triggered the collapse of a hedge fund that had bet against GameStop's stock and helped inspire the 2023 film Dumb Money starring Paul Dano. American Eagle's stock was down almost 50pc so far this year prior to this week's rally after it pulled its annual forecasts because of tariff uncertainty. The company primarily sources its products from China. Ross Mayfield, an analyst at Baird Private Wealth Management, said memestocks were a symbol of how stock markets had been 'gamblified'. He said: 'It says to me nothing about the level of interest rates or financial conditions. This is retail traders moving individual stocks that are heavily shorted. 'It reflects more the gambling culture permeating financial markets. These are not being bid up because of a good earnings report. It's because of a Sydney Sweeney ad campaign.' Ms Sweeney, who has 25.2m followers on Instagram, has fronted campaigns for the likes of Ford, Baskin-Robbins ice cream and luxury fashion brand Miu Miu. As well as being known for her screen roles, Ms Sweeney has become a prominent figure in popular culture and found herself wrapped up in North American culture wars. After her appearance hosting Saturday Night Live, in which she appeared in a sketch as a Hooters waitress, Canadian newspaper the National Post that declared the actress's breasts were the 'double-D harbingers of the death of woke', a claim that sparked a wave of commentary on both sides of the political spectrum centring on her physical appearance. Meanwhile, Ms Sweeney was criticised by commentators on the Left in 2023 after she attended a birthday party for her mother where guests were pictured wearing Maga-style caps. Broaden your horizons with award-winning British journalism. Try The Telegraph free for 1 month with unlimited access to our award-winning website, exclusive app, money-saving offers and more. Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Elle
2 days ago
- Elle
Lindsay Lohan Channels Barbiecore in Mexico City for 'Freakier Friday' Premiere
THE RUNDOWN It's shaping up to be a huge year for reboots and sequels. Between Freakier Friday and The Devil Wears Prada 2, all of our early 2000s dreams are coming true. Case in point: Last night, Lindsay Lohan stepped onto the red carpet at the Mexico City premiere of Freakier Friday in a magenta strapless draped gown with a golden chain neck detail from Balmain's resort 2026 collection. The warm hues from the dress and hardware made the ELLE cover star look absolutely sun-kissed, and the look was a nod to the Barbiecore trend. Lohan's red carpet fashion hasn't missed. At the world premiere of the film in Los Angeles earlier this week, the actress sported a pink custom Miu Miu gown complete with a sweetheart neckline, flowing skirt, crystal embellishments, and a bedazzled microphone—a mix of Y2K meets Old Hollywood glamour. She was all smiles while posing with Parent Trap co-stars Lisa Ann Walter and Elaine Hendrix—the latter of whom even makes a brief appearance in Freakier Friday (it really is a huge year for childhood movie throwbacks!). The look was styled by Andrew Mukamal, interestingly, the genius behind Margot Robbie's fabulous outfits from the Barbie press tour. Mukamal is also currently styling Vanessa Kirby, who stars in The Fantastic Four: First Steps, and Hailey Bieber. Lohan has looked effortlessly elegant, in numerous Alaïa, Balmain, Nina Ricci, and Givenchy ensembles.
