This town on the Thames is fit for royalty—but has so much more to offer

National Geographic

16-07-2025

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The River Thames has long been the lifeblood of Henley. For centuries, it welcomed merchant ships carrying wine and grain from London. Trade with the capital transformed it into a thriving port town, Tudor and Georgian townhouses steadily gilding the streets around its medieval marketplace. But it wasn't until 1839, when oars hit the water for the inaugural Henley Regatta, that the town made the leap from prosperous port to fashionable resort. Featuring more than 400 races spread out across the first week of July, the boating event now attracts over 300,000 visitors every year, with spectators gathering for riverside picnics at Remenham Farm, Temple Island and other vantage points. It wasn't until 1839, when oars hit the water for the inaugural Henley Regatta, that the town made the leap from prosperous port to fashionable resort. Featuring more than 400 races spread out across the first week of July, the boating event now attracts over 300,000 visitors every year.
The regatta remains a key cornerstone of Henley's identity, but with local chefs using British produce to put a spin on dishes inspired by distant cultures, the town is also becoming something of a culinary hotspot. What's the food & drink scene like?
January 2025 saw the opening of The Duke, a cosy gastropub a few streets back from the river. All dark-wood panelling and plump, striped cushions, it specialises in small plates cooked over open-flame grills, with head chef Ryan Honey serving up dishes like lamb shoulder tacos and king prawns with yuzu and jalapeño. Steps from the riverside is Hart Street Tavern, whose breakfast menu includes a hearty full English complete with crispy hash browns. Come evening, you'll find diners tucking into cauliflower popcorn, miso Cornish cod and punchy tropical cocktails. For supplies, head to the Market Place, which hosts a farmers' market twice a month. Just off it, Pavilion is a café and deli stacked with sauces, preserves and pastas. Grab a speciality coffee from the front counter or book one of its small-group cookery classes, held in the open kitchen. With local chefs using British produce to put a spin on dishes inspired by distant cultures, the town is also becoming something of a culinary hotspot. Photograph by The Duke Pub Where can I stay by the river?
Try The Relais Henley, which overlooks the pale stone of Henley Bridge. Originally a 16th-century coaching inn used to house the craftsmen working on nearby St Mary's Church, the property went on to welcome a weary Charles I, whose coat of arms still rests above the fireplace in room 108. Today, The Relais' secluded courtyard serves as the centrepiece to 40 Georgian-style rooms furnished with suede armchairs and four-poster beds. Pop down to the accompanying restaurant for dishes such as roasted monkfish in tangy ginger and lemongrass sauce. Otherwise, head to Tavern Townhouse, a Grade II-listed boutique hotel in the Market Place. Opened in October 2024, its six rooms combine heritage features with contemporary flourishes. Expect restored fireplaces, freestanding bathtubs and abstract artworks — all less than a five-minute walk from the river. What else is worth checking out?
The Henley Distillery — a multi-award-winning spirits producer based on Hampstead Farm in neighbouring Binfield Heath — shouldn't be skipped. Owned and operated by master distiller Jacob Wilson and his family, the site features a tasting room set within a 200-year-old barn. Visitors can sample gins and rums around its curved bar during the distillery tour or take part in the three-hour gin-making experience, choosing from almost 100 different botanicals to craft their own blends. For those looking to venture into the surrounding countryside, there's Greys Court, a 14th-century country manor with Tudor chimneys overlooking the Chiltern Hills. The surrounding grounds feature walled gardens and two repurposed outhouses; seasonal produce is sold in the old woodshed, with the former cowshed now serving as a tearoom. Head back into town to peruse independent shops like Calvert Jones, which stocks cookbooks, handmade jewellery and luscious potted plants — or dive into Henley's rich riverside history at the River and Rowing Museum, which houses a collection of boating memorabilia alongside artworks from the likes of Henley local John Piper. The surrounding grounds of Greys Court feature walled gardens and two repurposed outhouses; seasonal produce is sold in the old woodshed, with the former cowshed now serving as a tearoom. Photograph by National Trust Images; Hugh Mothersole Published in the July/August 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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