Osteria Angelina
No matter how much we want to keep them to ourselves, you can't help but feel a sense of pride, deep in your chest, when a beloved neighbourhood restaurant graduates to Zone 1. First Leytonstone's Singburi, and now Dalston's Angelina are joining the big boys under the skyscrapers. And can we blame them? Real money isn't in date night dinners – it's in sharing steaks you can charge to the company card.
This food is interesting and adventurous – it's fusion but not naff or ill-thought out
Osteria Angelina is the shiny new outpost of the Japanese-Italian fusion tasting menu restaurant, and it is absolutely, hands-down brilliant. With loud music, high glassy ceilings and a smell which can only be described as new, this is a swanky place, just a short walk from Liverpool Street in a former cotton factory. It's a thoughtful rethinking of the OG with an entirely different menu – though the care, quality and spirit of the original outpost remain.
I started with a glug of peachy Soave, before tucking into small plate starters, including quite possibly the best heritage tomato salad I have ever tasted. The milk bread, fluffy but dense, was a joy to use, sponge-like, to soak up the vinaigrette dressing (though I was less sold on its accompanying marmalade, which felt like overkill). Don't skimp on the crudo, which is delectable: especially the seared tuna, with a small kick of wasabi, swimming in a sea of garlicky green juice. The sea bream, slightly nutty and served with pear, was softer, but just as tender and gorgeous.
Pasta-wise, you're going to want to go for the tortellini, which was all fresh truffle and kelp. Then onto the big boys: ox tongue with wasabi (not at all tongue like), was gorgeously gamey and umami, and went down a treat with a superb side of greens, suffocating in parmesan.
Avoid ordering the charcoal-coloured sesame cheesecake, which was so dense it could have stopped a door, but the chilli sorbet, served with fresh grapes and blueberries, danced on the tongue with a serious kick. This food is interesting and adventurous – it's fusion but not naff or ill-thought out. A Deans-listed, top-of-the-year, first-class graduation.
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