Not quite luxe but this expedition ship is the real deal
The forward-facing observation lounge on Deck 8 has a small bar and large deck from which to view wildlife and scenery. Another expansive deck faces aft on Deck 7, which might normally be filled with Zodiacs on expedition ships.
I particularly like the snug library on the port side, crammed with polar reference and history books, and with windows often framing views of mountains or icebergs. The ship also has a reception desk, small shop and, in its bowels, a mudroom for storing boots and poplar jackets (both supplied by Aurora Expeditions) and with access onto Zodiacs for excursions.
The stateroom
I'm in a balcony stateroom, each of which varies slightly in size. Mine is 20.9 square metres plus balcony. It's a generous and well-considered space with enough room for a desk and two small armchairs, and ample storage space for the contents of two suitcases.
A large TV, a minibar and abundant electric and USB sockets are among amenities. The room is well insulated: I can't hear my jet-lagged neighbours, who worry I might be disturbed by their TV late at night.
The ensuite is a decent size but is lacking a cabinet or much counter-top space. Yet it has what you really need in polar conditions: underfloor heating, and a generous shower space with gushing hot water.
The food
Dining times are short, and service swift but attentive. Seating is open. There's only one restaurant, with breakfast and lunch served buffet-style and providing a good range of hot and cold dishes. At lunchtime I'm very happy with the salad bar, cold cuts and cheeses, an always excellent soup, and various hot dishes and desserts that change daily.
The galley delivers consistently good, home-cooking-style cuisine, rather than the fancy or adventurous. The menu is Europe-inspired but among the choices is always an Indian (and sometimes other Asian) dish to enliven the palate. Wine is included at dinner.
A small section of the dining room is set aside in the evenings as a speciality, inclusive Tuscan grill restaurant. It has a limited and unchanging menu but the two pasta dishes (pappardelle alla norma and oxtail ragout) are excellent, as are various vegetable side dishes.
Wellness
The ship has a small spa, a good-sized gym with an impressive range of equipment, and two hot tubs on Deck 7 at the front of the ship that make for fabulous wallowing as glaciers and icebergs pass by. Also popular is the sauna, where chilled bones can be warmed, especially following the notorious 'polar plunge' or rite-of-passage dip into the icy Antarctic Ocean.
Entertainment
Nobody is on this ship for singers or piano players. Greg Mortimer is focused on maximising the expedition experience, so 'entertainment' is confined to informative lectures by highly experienced expedition staff, many of whom are scientists specialising in geology, ecology, Antarctic history or niche subjects from whales to penguins.
Guests make Zodiac excursions twice daily (conditions permitting) and may opt for additional adventure activities such as kayaking, snowshoeing, mountain climbing, ice camping and scuba-diving or snorkelling (yes, even in polar regions).
Greg Mortimer has a huge advantage in Antarctica, where regulations restrict landings to 100 people at a time. With some guests out kayaking or doing sporting activities elsewhere, guests can maximise their time ashore without any need, as on larger ships, to rotate.
The crew
The quality of any expedition hinges on the experience, knowledge and good sense of the expedition team, where Aurora excels. Greg Mortimer himself leads the team on my voyage but all its members are impressive, whether in the lecture lounge or out in the Zodiacs. On shore they patiently answer questions about everything from sea-ice formation to the sex life of penguins.
The regular ships' crew are mostly from the Philippines, with all the usual charm and friendliness you expect from that nation's hard-working cruise staff. They soon remember guests' names and dining preferences. A shout-out in particular to the irrepressible Pel and the always-singing Wendy in the restaurant, who manage attentive service while always appearing relaxed.
The verdict
Aurora Expeditions isn't a fancy cruise company with an expedition-lite arm but the real deal, offering a thrilling and rugged sense of adventure in the remotest places – and yet not sacrificing comfort to do so.
The details
A 23-day Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctic Peninsula itinerary round-trip from Ushuaia departing December 27, 2025, is priced from $US28,215 a guest all-inclusive, except for some adventure activities. Greg Mortimer has two staterooms with disabled access. See aurora-expeditions.com
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