Mangalagiri handloom sarees and fabrics: woven in tradition, draped in legacy

The Hindu

3 days ago

At the foothills of the sacred hill temple of Panakala Narasimha Swamy in the heritage town of Mangalagiri, now a part of Amaravati the capital city of Andhra Pradesh, threads of faith, tradition, and craftsmanship converge into something truly timeless — Mangalagiri handloom saree.
For centuries, devotees visiting the shrine would descend the hill not just spiritually enriched but also with a tangible token of cultural reverence — a handwoven saree — purchased from local artisans as a sacred ritual and a statement of elegance. Today, this rich tradition has blossomed into an iconic textile legacy that has earned the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag and global acclaim.
The Mangalagiri handloom sector — based in Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh — is not just about fabric. It is a living chronicle of India's handloom heritage, a resilient community of artisans, and a testament to the cultural economy that weaves together identity and livelihood. Recognized under the Government of India's 'One District One Product' (ODOP) initiative, the Mangalagiri saree and other textiles stand as a proud symbol of India's craft-centric development model.
The Legacy of the Loom
The uniqueness of Mangalagiri textiles lies in their minimalist grandeur. Known for their fine cotton texture, striking borders and absence of embroidery in the body, these sarees exude a quiet sophistication. The hallmark of the weave is the Nizam border — a majestic zari-edged design marked by tiny temple gopurams — paired with elegant stripes or checks on the pallu. The designs speak volumes about the regional religious ethos, where devotion and design have long coexisted.
It's not just sarees that emerge from these looms. Mangalagiri weavers produce a versatile range of products like salwar suits, dupattas, shirting fabrics, towels, bed linens and even mosquito nets. Cotton remains the preferred medium, giving the fabric a lightweight, breathable quality — perfect for India's climate.
Guntur and Palnadu districts hosts 21 cooperative societies solely dedicated to Mangalagiri handlooms, supporting over 4,500 active weavers and nearly 5,000 ancillary workers, Assistant Director, Handlooms and Textiles, B. Udaya Kumar explains. The importance of these numbers is not just economic but deeply social — each loom supports families, preserves artistry, and upholds tradition.
A Heritage Under Siege — and Rescued
Despite their enduring appeal, the Mangalagiri weavers have faced numerous challenges over time. The proliferation of powerlooms, declining profits, and market competition had started to threaten the very survival of the handloom clusters and as a result the number of weavers also has been declining gradually.
Recognizing this, both the Government of India and the Government of Andhra Pradesh intervened with focused policy measures. The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) and Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS) have provided a much-needed lifeline. Now, the Small Cluster Development Progamme (SCDP) under NHDP is also being implemented here.
Covering 265 beneficiaries in Mangalagiri-1 cluster for their looms development under SCDP, government has sanctioned more than ₹91 lakh, with the GoI share as ₹87 lakh and GoAP contributing more than ₹4 lakh, Mr. Udaya Kumar explained. In fact, it is a part of the total amount of more than ₹2.09 crore sanctioned under the programme for five clusters in the State, including Trikoteswara in Bapatla district, Kalahasteeswara and Narayanavanam in Tirupati district, Chilakaluripet-1 in Palnadu district and the Mangalagiri-1 in Guntur district.
The government is also providing special incentives for the female weavers. In addition to that the government is also ensured MUDRA loans to 161 beneficiaries to a tune of about ₹1.3 crore in Mangalagiri, he added.
Under these schemes, the district has seen the construction of over 190 individual worksheds, distribution of hundreds of upgraded looms, and the creation of common facility centres. These physical spaces have not only improved productivity, but also restored dignity to the artisans who now work in safer, better-equipped environments near their homes. Design training has been another game-changer.
The Andhra Pradesh government partnered with the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Hyderabad and the National Institute of Design (NID), Guntur, to equip weavers with skills that blend traditional weaving with modern aesthetics. Over 400 individuals — weavers, designers, and cluster executives — have undergone this training, learning everything from colour theory and pattern drafting to marketing and e-commerce.
'This training helped the individuals to enhance their skills in understanding the traditional wisdom using skills, materials, tools and marketing approaches. As part of the programme they have been learning the fundamentals of design, specific textile and apparel methods, textile fibres, weave structures, surface design, dyeing techniques, colouration, printing methods, pattern making, draping and sewing techniques,' according to an official of the Textiles department.
Meagre Earnings is a Cause of Concern
Bitra Nageswara Rao, a 60-year-old handloom worker with an experience of about 45 years, said that they earn about ₹8,000 per month on an average in a year and the merchants pay ₹4,000 to ₹5,000 per four sarees. It takes a couple of days for each saree to be weaved. At the same time, the weavers have to spend more than ₹1,000 on other ancillary work like bundling the threads. After completing the four sarees, the worker will be left with only ₹3,000 for four sarees, he added.
Mr. Nageswara Rao explained that they mix silk, cotton and zari to produce fine quality saree. He said that, even though the government provided some skill training in jacquard looms, many of the weavers could not adopt it due to the complexity involved. Meanwhile, Mr. Udaya Kumar said that to survive the weavers in Mangalagiri will have to adopt the jacquard looms and improve their skills like the weavers in Chirala, who have been producing the Kuppadam sarees, which command a higher price than Mangalagiri sarees because of their designs. Mangalagiri weavers also could produce more designs by going for the jacquard looms, he explained.
Weaving into the Modern Economy
What sets Mangalagiri apart is how it balances heritage with innovation. The sarees and fabrics are now being actively promoted at national and international exhibitions. From the Saamuhika Exhibition at A.P. Bhavan, New Delhi, to the Craft Bazaar in Navi Mumbai and the State Handloom Expo in Guntur, the district administration has ensured that these exquisite weaves get their rightful space in the spotlight. Retail channels too have undergone a revolution. Thanks to government-backed encouragement, many Mangalagiri weavers now market their products via e-commerce portals. This has opened up new revenue streams and eliminated exploitative middlemen from the equation. Financial inclusion has also been addressed. Schemes like MUDRA loans, Cash Credit, and DRDA/MEPMA loans have enabled more than 1,000 weavers to access capital for expanding operations or starting entrepreneurial ventures.
From Local Threads to Global Recognition
The district administration's efforts have culminated in Mangalagiri Sarees being one of the most compelling contenders for the ODOP Award, a national-level recognition for excellence in indigenous products. The proposal argues not only on the merit of cultural significance and design excellence, but also on the strength of institutional support, community upliftment, and economic impact. The symbolism of a Mangalagiri saree today is multilayered — it is a cloth of worship, a flag of sustainability, a badge of indigenous pride, and a product of tireless human craftsmanship.
As India seeks to reimagine its rural economies through the lens of tradition, the Mangalagiri handloom sector offers a luminous example of how to do it right.
From temple rituals to international runways, the journey of the Mangalagiri saree is a tapestry of belief, resilience, and brilliance. And as long as these looms continue to hum their melodic rhythm, the legacy of Mangalagiri will remain woven into the very fabric of Indian identity.