On the kanwar route, devotion and some concerns

Hindustan Times

18 hours ago

Dressed in saffron or yellow and a gamchha (towel) slung over their shoulders, millions of men (and some women) pour out of towns and villages across the northern heartland every monsoon, making their way on foot, on buses, motorcycles or cars to the Ganga ghats in Haridwar.
Last year, roughly 40 million people undertook this holy journey that has unfortunately also come to be associated with incidents of vandalism and crime. As the Kanwar Yatra opens, HT travels the 210km (Delhi to Haridwar) route to take stock of public perception – devotion mixed with some anxiety and concern.
STOP 1: Partapur Village, Uttar Pradesh, 60km from Delhi
Fifteen kilometres from Meerut is Partapur village, the first stop of kanwariyas. The streets are lined with around five police tents, 15-20 camps for devotees, two-three medical camps and a fire tender on standby. Vedpal Saini, who runs a roadside eatery, said the pilgrimage is getting bigger every year.
It's good for business, he added, even if there is a caveat.
'If there are 100 good devotees, there are also 10-15 notorious ones who harass people,' said the 44-year-old, and added that while traffic woes trouble the local residents, 'business picks up.'
'For at least 10 days, one side of the road is blocked and we can't even ride a bike. The pilgrims lie down on the road, making it inaccessible,' said Saini.
But he is not complaining; his customers swell fourfold during the kanwariya season.
A UP police constable who asked not to be named said the problem is only with a few of the 'daak kanwars' – who do not stop and walk or run continuously – that are impossible to control, with some who are 'drunk, creating a ruckus if stopped.'
Otherwise, he adds, it's just more work
'We have 12 hour long shifts, and no leaves for a month. Our hands are also tied, we can't do much… I just hope each year that no major incident takes place involving the pilgrims.'
STOP 2: Modipuram, Uttar Pradesh, 90km from Delhi
The next stop is Modipuram, around 30km away, where over a dozen camps are set up and over 500 police personnel deployed. 'When I was a child, only small groups of men would undertake this journey. It was a festive time, peaceful too. Now, I see thousands of men on the yatra,' said Mohan Lal, a septuagenarian resident.
With increasing numbers, there is bound to be some trouble. 'Some drink, drive rashly and abuse on the way,' he adds.
But most people factor the yatra into their calculations – making changes in how they work.
For instance, Mohan Kumar, who runs Vasudeva Hospital, a 12-bed unit gets his employees to stay at the hospital itself.
'For a week, traffic becomes a huge problem. I make my doctors and nursing staff, only men, stay at the hospital for three to four days, so that they don't have to face any problem,' said Kumar.
For the Muslim traders of Modinagar , it is a fraught time.
Mohammad Umar, a biryani seller, said he shut his shop. 'My parents are dependent on me, and even though I know the local politicians, I think it would be risky to open the shop this time of the year. I don't want to get into any trouble. This will affect finances but we don't have an option.'
STOP 3: Khatauli, Uttar Pradesh, 115km from Delhi
The small town is packed with shops, sugar mills and businesses, all in the same market. Shopkeepers and local leaders have put up welcome boards for the kanwariyas. 'Even though the GT Road gets blocked, it's still such a festive mood in the city. We face huge traffic snarls… But that's fine,' said Hem Singh, a sweet shop owner.
But for women, it's also a time when they have to be careful. Suneeta Kumar, a 28-year-old who works at an electrical appliances shop with her husband Arup Kumar, also finds her movements restricted for two weeks.
'Why risk one's safety and step out? Most of the people are nice but there will be a few bad elements. We prefer staying indoors. Some people get drunk and misbehave. I wish the government could do something,' she said.
Next to Khatauli, in Daurala village, shopkeepers and villagers were also preparing for the yatra.
Mohd Naushad, a car and bike repair shop owner, finds himself busy at all hours of the day and night when the yatra begins.
'I have never had to shut my shop during Kanwar Yatra because of my religion or anything. It's such a busy time. In fact, I even get calls at midnight from devotees who need help fixing their cars or bikes. They call me and have never misbehaved. There's garbage but municipality staff cleans it over the night.'
A senior police officer (DSP level), told HT 'It's more like a festival for locals. Obviously, there are good and bad elements. Our job is to take care. The local police is vigilant and no incidents have been observed inside the city. More than 800 staff guided by inspectors are deployed round the clock.'
HT Graphics(HT)
STOP 4: Muzaffarnagar, Uttar Pradesh, 140km from Delhi
Before reaching Haridwar, a Shiva temple in Muzaffarnagar is an important pitstop for devotees. Located in the middle of Shiv Chowk road junction, the temple receives more than a million kanwariyas every year, said police. 'The pilgrimage is incomplete without a parikrama at the Shiv temple. There's some traffic issues but the police are always here,' said head priest Harish Bhardwaj. There are more than 50 camps set up in the city and 2,000 police personnel deployed. A separate control room is set up at Shiva Chowk for senior officers to monitor situation.
Bhardwaj explained how devotees come from different parts of the country and join the yatra. 'I always have help. Some even volunteer to clean the temple...' he added.
'There's no end to our duty at that time. I have worked for over 20 hours every day. If millions of men are on the streets, there will be some issues. But we cannot do much and have to maintain law and order,' said a police officer, requesting anonymity.
Director general of police (DGP) Rajiv Krishna told media that across UP over 587 gazetted officers, 2040 inspectors, 13,520 sub-inspectors, 39,965 head constables and constables, 1,486 women sub-inspectors, 8,541 women head constables and constables, 50 companies of Central Police Force and Pradeshik Armed Constabulary (PAC) and 1,424 Home Guards have been deployed.
STOP 5: Roorkee, Uttarakhand, 190km from Delhi
Roorkee comes to a standstill for two weeks during Kanwar season. More than 2,000 police personnel are deployed and over 100 camps are set up. As men and women dance to loud music blaring out of trucks, schools, colleges, offices and even a few markets remain shut. 'The roads have been blocked since July 5. This will go on till July 23, till everyone comes back from Haridwar. Cleanliness is a major issue for us. The street outside my store is lined with garbage,' said Abhishek Grover, a grocery store owner.
Devotees also take big chariots for the Kawar Yatra. Some even carry their parents.
He said while he respected a large majority of devotees, some were hooligans. 'I see them and I know they are intoxicated. I have three female staffers and I just tell them to take leave or not leave the store,' he added.
Retired IIT Roorkee professor, R Shankar, recalled a more peaceful time. 'Devotees would walk in small groups and mind their own business. It all changed after 1990-92. There was this big spike in numbers. I am a religious man myself but I can't support this,' he said.
A traffic police head constable said they lose count of their work hours. 'Everyone I know is on the ground. The traffic is a huge issue. While local police focus on law and order, we have to see traffic as well. We have to ensure essential services don't get affected. I usually don't take leave during Kawar Yatra time,' he said.
STOP 6: Haridwar, Uttarakhand, 225 km from Delhi
It's here that kanwariyas fill their pots with water from the Ganga and walk back to villages and towns across Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Delhi. Hotels, holy ghats, temples, lodges and eateries teem with people.
The streets, the ghats, temples and monuments are lit with decorations, lights, flowers and colourful banners.
From July 11 to 28, all schools will remain shut, offices will be closed and buses and rickshaws will stop plying on the roads. Diyas, flowers, puja items, religious pieces such as rudrakash, stones and other pieces will be sold at twice the price, said yadav.
'My wife and I come to Har Ki Paudi every day but we don't come during the Kanwar Yatra. There's no space to stand and there's garbage everywhere. Police are called to remove people because there's fear of stampede,' said retired teacher Rajan Yadav, 65.
The district magistrate's office said over 45 million people arrived in Haridwar during the Kawar Yatra last year.
'We keep our shops open for 12-16 hours. People keep coming in and there's no space to sit. I can't stand all day and sell cans and puja items. I have a young daughter who also tries to help but I can't allow her to stay here at night,' said Mohini Singh, a shopkeeper.
Many residents welcome the pilgrimage. Srishti Kulshrestha, 24, whose parents run a shop near the ghat, is one of them. 'I see my family working for over 12 hours without any police help, handling crowds but they never complain. My mother says it's like sewa (service).'
In all, 8,000 police personnel are deployed and hundreds camps set up. A police constable near Har Ki Paudi showed three CCTV rooms and announcement stations which are set up to help devotees, missing children and check for thefts or any nuisance
STOP 7: Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, 250km from Delhi
Most kanwariyas return from Haridwar with water cans, but some walk on towards Rishikesh to visit the Neelkanth temple. 'Last year, more than six lakh people were there on a single day. . For two days, the entire stretch was blocked from Rishikesh main town to Neelkanth temple. Two or three years back, I remember there were heavy rains and people were stuck. The authorities closed roads and people were stuck near the temple, some were stuck on roads,' said Sumit Kanwal, a priest.
Kanwal added that young men and women often do the trek to complete the pilgrimage. 'Some do it for their elderly parents, others do it in groups. It's truly surprising to see so many people turning up here. They visit our temple as well.'
Colourful chariots, idols, posters and models line the streets. Some Kawar Yatris fix their own chariots and pots as they trek towards Rishikesh
Only 50-60 camps are set up at Rishikesh as most devotees have to trek during rains. Police officials told HT that police are deployed at every post or road junction since the devotees walk around the entire city to get to the temple.
'For 15-18 days, it's complete madness. I have seen men who remove silencers from their bikes. Their speakers cause headaches and my parents do not move out,' said Kuldeep Singh, a local guide. 'Nobody can confront them as they are always angry.'