Pharma giants want to crash the skincare party. It will be a long haul.

Mint

2 days ago

India's pharmaceutical giants have a battle on their hands as they take on beauty and cosmetic startups and their influencers. Consumers are increasingly seeking out clinically backed skincare products, according to industry experts, but drugmakers currently account for only a fraction of the overall beauty and personal care market.
Cipla Ltd, Glenmark Pharmaceuticals Ltd and Emcure Pharmaceuticals Ltd, which have a presence in the dermatology or skin diseases segment, are expanding with sunscreens, moisturisers and serums, products that don't need a prescription.
'There is an evident surge in cosmo-derma products in India, driven by the consumer's need for a trustworthy science-backed solution that is efficacious and affordable," Shivam Puri, managing director and chief executive of Cipla Health Ltd, Cipla's consumer-focused unit, told Mint.
Cosmo-derma products or 'cosmoceuticals' fall somewhere between traditional cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, offering active ingredients that target specific skin concerns, but need not be prescription-grade drugs.
'The space has become extremely cluttered, and consumers are increasingly turning to brands with clinically backed claims, dermatologist endorsements, and proven efficacy," Puri added.
However, pharma companies have a long way to climb.
India's beauty and personal care market is poised to grow to $34 billion by 2028 from $21 billion in 2023, with the skincare category growing the fastest, at a compound annual growth rate of 13%, according to retailerNykaa's beauty trends report 2024.
In comparison, cosmo-derma sales by pharmaceutical companies in India was ₹4,851 crore (about $565 million) as of June, show data by pharma intelligence platform Pharmarack. The cosmo-derma sector, however, grew at a faster 17% CAGR over the previous 5 years.
Pharmaceutical companies also have to contend with consumer goods giants in the skincare space. Hindustan Unilever Ltd acquired a 90.5% stake in Minimalist earlier this year, valuing the Jaipur-based online skincare and haircare brand at ₹2,955 crore (about $345 million).
A battle in the beauty arena—key points
A clinical approach
Last year, responding to the growing demand for skincare products, Emcure Pharmaceuticals launched Emcutix Biopharmaceuticals Ltd to expand its derma business with a focus on offerings such as moisturisers built with multi-layer fatty acid emulsion technology and a non-invasive topical treatment for skin tightening.
'The line between medicine and skincare continues to blur," said Sathya Narayanan, CEO of Emcutix. 'We have seen that people are willing to invest more when they know a product is non-comedogenic, fragrance-free, and backed by science."
Glenmark, among India's largest dermatology players, is leveraging its research and development capabilities, manufacturing facilities, and its distribution network to expand in the over-the-counter (OTC) or non-prescription skincare products.
'Our model gives us the agility to bring dermatologist-trusted, high-efficacy formulations to market at a price point that's accessible," said Alok Malik, president of Glenmark's India formulations business.
'While startups have brought agility, which has benefited the entire category, what sets us apart as a pharmaceutical brand, is our clinical depth, long-standing dermatologist trust, and a robust safety profile," Malik added.
India's beauty brands battle hard in a crowded market
Torrent Pharmaceuticals Ltd, which has an established presence in the dermatology segment, in 2022 acquired skincare product maker Curatio Healthcare for ₹2,000 crore, adding leading brands Tedibar and Atogla to its kitty.
Despite their miniscule presence, pharma companies stand a good chance to build brands in the non-prescription skincare market, said Vishal Manchanda, senior vice president of institutional research at Systematix Group, a management advisory.
'They are better poised because they have a better bandwidth for clinical trials, and pharmaceutical understanding also helps in creating claims and doing studies," he said.
What's driving demand?
Beauty brands like Canada's The Ordinary and Minimalist have popularised the active ingredients approach to skincare, and compounds like retinol, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide have become part of daily parlance, especially among young users.
'A lot of this [demand] has been powered because of social media and influencer-led brand activities which talked about ingredients and percentages, etc.," said Dr. Chytra Anand. 'For the longest time, influencer-led activity played a big role in purchase, not just information. Now, influencer activities have become more informational."
The Bengaluru-based cosmetic dermatologist said she's seeing a growth in patients coming for regular skin health checkups and recommendations the past 3-4 years, as opposed to patients seeking treatment for pre-existing skin and hair conditions.
'It's really been the OTC brands that went out and did a lot of marketing and created this awareness. Now going to a doctor, be it a dermatologist or an aesthetic doctor who sees skincare problems, has become normal," Dr. Anand said.
Mint spoke with a number of users, largely women in their 20s and 30s who have switched from cosmetic skincare brands to dermatologist-recommended cosmo-derma products for concerns like acne-prone skin and sun protection.
'I believe in science-backed products more than hyped beauty PR products," said Arunima Joshua. The Mumbai-based freelance writer and media professional added that she had tried Korean skincare products and other well-known brands before switching to products recommended by a dermatologist.
However, Joshua, who writes on lifestyle, maintained that the shift towards dermatologist recommendations is slow, with influencer-backed marketing pushing people to self-prescribe.
The real differentiator
For such people, dermatologists cautioned against the misuse of compounds such as retinol that are sold by cosmetics brands.
'There is no regulation in the Indian market… people can buy retinol over the counter and not need a prescription," said Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr. Sagar Gujjar.
Retinol, or vitamin A1, is a popular skincare ingredient used to reduce wrinkles and enlarged pores. But users need to know the right percentage and efficacy suitable for them, said Dr. Anand, adding that products by pharmaceutical companies are more reliable for such use.
'If somebody has never used a basic cleanser, they are not going to start off with a clinically backed cleanser," added Dr. Anand.
However, a younger cohort of users in their 20s and 30s is likely to be well-researched and opt for a clinical grade product. 'They equate pharma and derm-related, doctor-related to high-trust value, high potency, high efficacy," Dr Anand said.
'The real differentiator is clinical depth and trust," added Malik of Glenmark.