Banning adults-only hotels is insane. Most children are intolerable
There was a mini furore this week in the European travel industry after it was reported that the French government is planning moves to make it illegal for hospitality venues such as hotels, campsites and restaurants to ban children. Sarah El Haïry, the high commissioner for childhood in France, said that she was ready to resort to new legislation to combat what she deemed a 'no kids trend' in the country.
Her sentiments have been amplified by fears among mummy blogger types that France is getting too much like Belgium where, according to a report by Paris Match, one in 10 restaurants ban children. All of this was described by El Haïry as 'violence against children,' adding: 'A child shouts, laughs and moves … we are institutionalising the idea that silence is a luxury, and the absence of children is a luxury.'
Consider me fully institutionalised.
'Ghoulish crime scene'
We've all been in that queue to board a plane, watching the otherwise blissfully childless stare around, spiralling in panic at the sight of unruly toddlers, hoping they won't get a seat near them. Children do, indeed, shout, laugh and move. But unless you're a doting Italian Nonna, you're probably indifferent to their presence at best. Sometimes they do cute things. A child using an expletive out of the blue makes me guffaw.
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But what children do a lot of the time during their waking hours is annoy you. And how you react to that might be an eyeroll, or an explosive demand that some headphones be used that the whole cabin doesn't have to listen to episodes of Teletubbies.
As a stressed adult, I have a list of things that relax me on holiday, and the presence of children isn't one of them. I sat down to write this shortly after one of my closest friends posted a picture from the resort they are staying at in Lanzarote, Spain. It showed a swimming pool surrounded by hazard warning tape like a ghoulish crime scene. A child had defecated in the water.

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Sydney Morning Herald
21 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Which European destination is best? We rate and rank the key rivals
Travel trends come and go (hello, Japan) but some destinations never fall out of favour. Australians' love affair with Europe is so enduring that each year, hundreds of thousands of us sit inside a plane for 24 hours for the opportunity to experience and explore this beguiling continent. For many, it's the diversity that is addictive. Europe is a place where you can have a sun-soaked summer holiday or throw yourself into an array of snow sports in the winter. It's a place where you can dip in and out of countless cultures, from the design-forward, down-to-earth style of the Scandinavians to the chilled-out charm of the Mediterranean. Spend enough time in Europe, however, and you will realise that some destinations share a lot in common – and that means making some hard choices. If you want some sun-drenched summer fun with a side serve of history, should you go island hopping in Greece or instead spend some time exploring Turkey's Aegean coast? Or perhaps you are hankering for an alpine adventure fuelled by schnitzel and strudel. In that case, obviously Austria is calling – unless, that is, Germany would be a better option? If you are unsure of which European country to tick off next, we have taken the guesswork out of it, with a series of bouts between the continent's travel titans to see which ones qualify as the continent's all-time travel champions. LATIN FLAIR The case for Portugal Lisbon has a way of seducing you with its pastel-painted houses and hand-crafted tiles, its imposing churches and its eye-catching street art. Those lively neighbourhoods made for strolling, from buzzing Chiado to atmospheric Alfama, are difficult to resist, as is all that fabulous food (bring on the custard tarts). But the charisma of Portugal's compact capital often overshadows the country's other attractions. There is the pretty riverside city of Porto, the lush vineyards of the Douro Valley, and the grand gardens and palaces of Sintra, including Palacio da Pena with its golden onion domes. And if you want some seaside action, Portugal takes some beating. Relax on the sandy beaches of Alentejo and the Algarve or head for the islands: either the Atlantic isles of the Azores or far-flung Madeira, floating off the north-west coast of Africa. See The case for Spain What gets your travel motors running? Is it monuments and museums, historic cities and ornate pleasure palaces, fantastic food, long-distance hikes or lively nightlife? Whatever tops your list, Spain delivers in spades. There are wonders such as Barcelona's Sagrada Familia cathedral and the Alhambra in Granada, art galleries filled with masterpieces by Picasso, Miro and more. Madrid has amazing tapas trails, Seville has fiery, flamboyant flamenco, and islands such as Mallorca and Ibiza are perfect for summer getaways. Perhaps Spain's greatest treasure, however, is the endless array of inviting towns and villages scattered across the country. From Merida with its Roman monuments, to Oviedo, where its strong connection to Celtic culture leans towards bagpipes and ciders, you will run out of time before you run out of places to explore. See And the winner is Portugal gets points for being more affordable, but Spain's abundant attractions make it the clear winner. ISLAND DELIGHTS The case for Malta It's difficult to define Malta, a country where English is one of the official languages, where the local cuisine blends Italian and Arabic influences, and where civilisations from the Phoenicians to the Greeks, the Romans to the Arabs, have all left an imprint. In summer, beachgoers flock to the main island of Malta and its smaller neighbours, Gozo and Comino, but Malta is worth visiting all year round. The capital, Valletta, has gorgeous baroque architecture, a stunner of a cathedral (with two Caravaggio canvases inside) and magnificent ramparts, while other settlements such as Mdina and Gozo's capital, Victoria, are also delightful. And if you love prehistory, you will be awed by sites such as the World Heritage-listed necropolis of Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, and seven megalithic temples that are older than Egypt's pyramids. See The case for Sicily So you watched season two of The White Lotus and you think you have got a handle on Sicily? Think again. On an island blessed with plenty of spectacular locations, the show managed to miss some of the best. Where were the Greek temples at Agrigento, or the baroque cities such as Ortygia, Catania and Modica? There were glimpses of Palermo's shabby-chic old town and Sicily's lost-in-time mountain villages, but the island's impressive collection of Byzantine mosaics, from the cathedral at Monreale to Palermo's breathtaking Palatine Chapel, were completely absent. And let's not forget the local food and wine. Sicily is Italy's second-largest wine producing region (look for nero d'avola and nerello mascalese), while the island's distinctive cuisine – including delicious street food such as arancini and the Sicilian-style pizza sfincione – is worth diving into. See And the winner is The makers of The White Lotus got one thing right – Sicily is a dream destination, even if you are not staying in the lap of luxury. SCANDIC SENSATIONS The case for Norway One of the reasons we love Norway is its way of defying expectations. If you are not a hike-this, climb-that traveller, you might think Norway, with its endless outdoor adventures, is off the menu. But most of the country's stunning fjords, mountains and islands – not to mention scenic villages and towns such as Bergen – can be explored in a low-impact way. There are jaw-dropping drives such as Trollstigen, a steep, switch-backing road that is a triumph of engineering, and don't miss rail trips such as the incredible Flam railway. As for only being worth visiting in the warmer months, think again. That long dark winter is luring increasing numbers of travellers who want to marvel at the Northern Lights and get stuck into snowy activities of all kinds. And if you lean more towards cultural activities than active adventures? Well, Norway has you covered too, with a wealth of museums and some eye-catching modern architecture, including Oslo's opera house and public library. See The case for Denmark What a difference two decades makes. Back in 2004, when a young Tasmanian married into the Danish royal family, Denmark wasn't on the radar for many Australian travellers. But then a culinary explosion led by Noma chef René Redzepi turned Copenhagen into a global dining hotspot. Not long after, the world fell in love with the convivial Danish concept of hygge, and suddenly, we were all wise to what a great destination Denmark is. The sheer liveability of a country where bikes outnumber cars in the capital, and where design is woven into everyday life, make Denmark an inspiring place to visit. Innovative Copenhagen, with its urban farms and floating student housing, is the obvious place to start but allows time to tick off some of the country's other sights, from the charming city of Aarhus to Jutland's whisky distilleries and oyster farmers. See And the winner is Neither of these countries are budget-friendly, but both of them make for a memorable holiday. We're calling this one a tie. The case for Turkey Let's start – where else? – with Istanbul. You could argue that this glorious city straddling two continents, with its mighty palaces and its bustling bazaar, is enough to steal the crown for Turkey. But should you need further persuasion, Turkey's arsenal includes plenty of other heavy-hitters. Take Cappadocia, where you can drift over the striking 'fairy chimney' rock formations in a hot air balloon and explore an underground city on the same day, or Ephesus, one of the greatest of all Roman ruins. There are the glittering beauties of Turkey's Aegean shores, the long-distance hike that is the Lycian Way, the surreal stepped pools of Pamukkale and the banquet of delights that is Turkish cuisine. Throw in the indulgence of a traditional hammam, and you have one heck of a holiday. See The case for Greece If you were trying to reduce the appeal of Greece to a simple formula, you might start with two numbers: 227 and 2078. The former is the number of major islands that make up the country, islands that have made Greece a holiday hotspot for luxury and budget travellers alike. And that second number? That's the age of the Parthenon, the signature site of the ancient civilisation that in many ways helped shape how we live today. But there is a lot more to Greece than islands and ruins and eating super-fresh seafood in rustic tavernas. In the north you have the lively city of Thessaloniki and the majestic clifftop monasteries at Meteora; down south you will find the Peloponnese, Greece's most underrated region, with its fortified city of Monemvasia, ruins like ancient Mycenae and medieval Mystras, and the wild Mani Peninsula. See And the winner is Turkey takes the crown for the sheer range of its offerings. The fact that its lighter on your wallet doesn't hurt either. LITTLE WONDERS The case for Belgium If you've never been to Belgium, here's a tip. On landing in Brussels, head straight for the Grand Place, one of Europe's most imposing public squares, and you'll be kicking yourself that you didn't make it here sooner. In fact, the longer you spend here, the more you will fall for the city's manifold delights, from vivid street art to some astounding art nouveau buildings, not to mention culinary treats from waffles to beer, mussels to some of the best chocolate on the planet. And it's not just Brussels. Belgium has a surfeit of cities that you will fall in love with, including stylish Antwerp (home to a jaw-dropping train station), Ghent and Brugge, or Bruges, each one hiding plenty of surprises within its cobblestoned streets. Best of all, each city is just a short ride away from the next on the country's efficient rail network. See The case for the Netherlands Like Santorini and Barcelona, pretty-as-a-picture Amsterdam has been struggling with overtourism, so it's about time we took a hard look at the rest of the country. And it turns out the Netherlands has plenty of other places that will steal your heart. Groningen combines the energy of a university town with cityscapes that include canals, ancient churches and colourful markets, while Maastricht's lovely city centre sits atop a series of underground caves. (Bibliophiles will also want to check out one of the loveliest bookstores in the world, Boekhandel Dominicanen, housed in an old church.) Other picturesque options include the town of Delft and the village of Giethoorn, while the country's rich artistic heritage – which includes painters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals and Bruegel – is felt everywhere. Even Rotterdam, once an eyesore of an industrial port, has reinvented itself as a forward-thinking city with eye-catching architecture and serious sustainability cred. See And the winner is Belgium is simply irresistible, and not just for the chocolate, we promise. TEUTONIC TITANS The case for Austria Some countries are all about the great outdoors; others focus on the finer things in life. Austria delivers epic doses of both. Start in Vienna, with its imperial Habsburg grandeur, its concert halls filled with the strains of Mozart and Bach and Strauss, its old-school coffee houses and its world-class museums. Then head out to the Alps for glaciers and ski slopes (should you be travelling in summer, the hiking is just as memorable). And that's only the start. The cities of Salzburg and Innsbruck are baroque beauties surrounded by soaring peaks, but Austria's lesser-known destinations are just as enchanting. Head south for a stay in Graz, where the architecture has a distinct Italianate slant and where wineries flourish; explore the Wachau Valley, on the UNESCO World Heritage list for its beauty; or dive into the turquoise lakes of the Salzkammergut region. See The case for Germany If Germany were a piece of clothing, it would be the proverbial navy blazer – the one that goes with everything. There is something here to suit every type of traveller, depending on which part of the country you choose to visit. Head to Bavaria for awesome mountains and the regal capital of Munich with its breweries and beer gardens, sample fine wines as you cruise along the Rhine, or head up to the underexplored Baltic coast, with its pine forests, sandy beaches and red-brick Gothic architecture. You might get active hiking the Black Forest; overdose on palaces in Potsdam; discover cutting-edge design in Leipzig; or marvel at the expressionist architecture of Bremen's Bottcherstrasse. And that's before we even get to Berlin, Europe's most unpredictable, and perhaps most intoxicating, city. See And the winner is Given it is four times the size of its neighbour, it's perhaps no surprise that Germany takes the crown. FIVE MORE CLASSIC EURO MATCH-UPS Hungary v Czechia Two countries, one problem: their capital cities are so appealing that few people look beyond them. In Hungary, add a few days onto your Budapest stay to allow a side trip to Lake Balaton; In Czechia, make time to enjoy the medieval charm of Cesky Krumlov. See Loading Croatia v Montenegro Croatia, with its crystal clear waters and historic sights cities such as Dubrovnik and Split, was the first Balkan nation to be discovered by tourists. That's now changing, as tiny Montenegro wins fans with its beautiful beaches and mountains. See Latvia v Lithuania These Baltic belles have much in common, from medieval cities and a complex Cold War history to lush forests, lakes and coasts. The Lithuanian capital of Vilnius is this year's European Green Capital, while the memorable architecture of Riga, the Latvian capital, includes some astonishing art nouveau buildings. See Kosovo vs Bosnia and Herzegovina Two of Europe's smallest (and youngest) countries have fraught histories, but both are also underrated destinations. The Bosnian capital of Sarajevo is a real East-West melting pot, while Kosovo's capital of Pristina makes for a surprisingly lively city break. See

The Age
21 hours ago
- The Age
Which European destination is best? We rate and rank the key rivals
Travel trends come and go (hello, Japan) but some destinations never fall out of favour. Australians' love affair with Europe is so enduring that each year, hundreds of thousands of us sit inside a plane for 24 hours for the opportunity to experience and explore this beguiling continent. For many, it's the diversity that is addictive. Europe is a place where you can have a sun-soaked summer holiday or throw yourself into an array of snow sports in the winter. It's a place where you can dip in and out of countless cultures, from the design-forward, down-to-earth style of the Scandinavians to the chilled-out charm of the Mediterranean. Spend enough time in Europe, however, and you will realise that some destinations share a lot in common – and that means making some hard choices. If you want some sun-drenched summer fun with a side serve of history, should you go island hopping in Greece or instead spend some time exploring Turkey's Aegean coast? Or perhaps you are hankering for an alpine adventure fuelled by schnitzel and strudel. In that case, obviously Austria is calling – unless, that is, Germany would be a better option? If you are unsure of which European country to tick off next, we have taken the guesswork out of it, with a series of bouts between the continent's travel titans to see which ones qualify as the continent's all-time travel champions. LATIN FLAIR The case for Portugal Lisbon has a way of seducing you with its pastel-painted houses and hand-crafted tiles, its imposing churches and its eye-catching street art. Those lively neighbourhoods made for strolling, from buzzing Chiado to atmospheric Alfama, are difficult to resist, as is all that fabulous food (bring on the custard tarts). But the charisma of Portugal's compact capital often overshadows the country's other attractions. There is the pretty riverside city of Porto, the lush vineyards of the Douro Valley, and the grand gardens and palaces of Sintra, including Palacio da Pena with its golden onion domes. And if you want some seaside action, Portugal takes some beating. Relax on the sandy beaches of Alentejo and the Algarve or head for the islands: either the Atlantic isles of the Azores or far-flung Madeira, floating off the north-west coast of Africa. See The case for Spain What gets your travel motors running? Is it monuments and museums, historic cities and ornate pleasure palaces, fantastic food, long-distance hikes or lively nightlife? Whatever tops your list, Spain delivers in spades. There are wonders such as Barcelona's Sagrada Familia cathedral and the Alhambra in Granada, art galleries filled with masterpieces by Picasso, Miro and more. Madrid has amazing tapas trails, Seville has fiery, flamboyant flamenco, and islands such as Mallorca and Ibiza are perfect for summer getaways. Perhaps Spain's greatest treasure, however, is the endless array of inviting towns and villages scattered across the country. From Merida with its Roman monuments, to Oviedo, where its strong connection to Celtic culture leans towards bagpipes and ciders, you will run out of time before you run out of places to explore. See And the winner is Portugal gets points for being more affordable, but Spain's abundant attractions make it the clear winner. ISLAND DELIGHTS The case for Malta It's difficult to define Malta, a country where English is one of the official languages, where the local cuisine blends Italian and Arabic influences, and where civilisations from the Phoenicians to the Greeks, the Romans to the Arabs, have all left an imprint. In summer, beachgoers flock to the main island of Malta and its smaller neighbours, Gozo and Comino, but Malta is worth visiting all year round. The capital, Valletta, has gorgeous baroque architecture, a stunner of a cathedral (with two Caravaggio canvases inside) and magnificent ramparts, while other settlements such as Mdina and Gozo's capital, Victoria, are also delightful. And if you love prehistory, you will be awed by sites such as the World Heritage-listed necropolis of Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, and seven megalithic temples that are older than Egypt's pyramids. See The case for Sicily So you watched season two of The White Lotus and you think you have got a handle on Sicily? Think again. On an island blessed with plenty of spectacular locations, the show managed to miss some of the best. Where were the Greek temples at Agrigento, or the baroque cities such as Ortygia, Catania and Modica? There were glimpses of Palermo's shabby-chic old town and Sicily's lost-in-time mountain villages, but the island's impressive collection of Byzantine mosaics, from the cathedral at Monreale to Palermo's breathtaking Palatine Chapel, were completely absent. And let's not forget the local food and wine. Sicily is Italy's second-largest wine producing region (look for nero d'avola and nerello mascalese), while the island's distinctive cuisine – including delicious street food such as arancini and the Sicilian-style pizza sfincione – is worth diving into. See And the winner is The makers of The White Lotus got one thing right – Sicily is a dream destination, even if you are not staying in the lap of luxury. SCANDIC SENSATIONS The case for Norway One of the reasons we love Norway is its way of defying expectations. If you are not a hike-this, climb-that traveller, you might think Norway, with its endless outdoor adventures, is off the menu. But most of the country's stunning fjords, mountains and islands – not to mention scenic villages and towns such as Bergen – can be explored in a low-impact way. There are jaw-dropping drives such as Trollstigen, a steep, switch-backing road that is a triumph of engineering, and don't miss rail trips such as the incredible Flam railway. As for only being worth visiting in the warmer months, think again. That long dark winter is luring increasing numbers of travellers who want to marvel at the Northern Lights and get stuck into snowy activities of all kinds. And if you lean more towards cultural activities than active adventures? Well, Norway has you covered too, with a wealth of museums and some eye-catching modern architecture, including Oslo's opera house and public library. See The case for Denmark What a difference two decades makes. Back in 2004, when a young Tasmanian married into the Danish royal family, Denmark wasn't on the radar for many Australian travellers. But then a culinary explosion led by Noma chef René Redzepi turned Copenhagen into a global dining hotspot. Not long after, the world fell in love with the convivial Danish concept of hygge, and suddenly, we were all wise to what a great destination Denmark is. The sheer liveability of a country where bikes outnumber cars in the capital, and where design is woven into everyday life, make Denmark an inspiring place to visit. Innovative Copenhagen, with its urban farms and floating student housing, is the obvious place to start but allows time to tick off some of the country's other sights, from the charming city of Aarhus to Jutland's whisky distilleries and oyster farmers. See And the winner is Neither of these countries are budget-friendly, but both of them make for a memorable holiday. We're calling this one a tie. The case for Turkey Let's start – where else? – with Istanbul. You could argue that this glorious city straddling two continents, with its mighty palaces and its bustling bazaar, is enough to steal the crown for Turkey. But should you need further persuasion, Turkey's arsenal includes plenty of other heavy-hitters. Take Cappadocia, where you can drift over the striking 'fairy chimney' rock formations in a hot air balloon and explore an underground city on the same day, or Ephesus, one of the greatest of all Roman ruins. There are the glittering beauties of Turkey's Aegean shores, the long-distance hike that is the Lycian Way, the surreal stepped pools of Pamukkale and the banquet of delights that is Turkish cuisine. Throw in the indulgence of a traditional hammam, and you have one heck of a holiday. See The case for Greece If you were trying to reduce the appeal of Greece to a simple formula, you might start with two numbers: 227 and 2078. The former is the number of major islands that make up the country, islands that have made Greece a holiday hotspot for luxury and budget travellers alike. And that second number? That's the age of the Parthenon, the signature site of the ancient civilisation that in many ways helped shape how we live today. But there is a lot more to Greece than islands and ruins and eating super-fresh seafood in rustic tavernas. In the north you have the lively city of Thessaloniki and the majestic clifftop monasteries at Meteora; down south you will find the Peloponnese, Greece's most underrated region, with its fortified city of Monemvasia, ruins like ancient Mycenae and medieval Mystras, and the wild Mani Peninsula. See And the winner is Turkey takes the crown for the sheer range of its offerings. The fact that its lighter on your wallet doesn't hurt either. LITTLE WONDERS The case for Belgium If you've never been to Belgium, here's a tip. On landing in Brussels, head straight for the Grand Place, one of Europe's most imposing public squares, and you'll be kicking yourself that you didn't make it here sooner. In fact, the longer you spend here, the more you will fall for the city's manifold delights, from vivid street art to some astounding art nouveau buildings, not to mention culinary treats from waffles to beer, mussels to some of the best chocolate on the planet. And it's not just Brussels. Belgium has a surfeit of cities that you will fall in love with, including stylish Antwerp (home to a jaw-dropping train station), Ghent and Brugge, or Bruges, each one hiding plenty of surprises within its cobblestoned streets. Best of all, each city is just a short ride away from the next on the country's efficient rail network. See The case for the Netherlands Like Santorini and Barcelona, pretty-as-a-picture Amsterdam has been struggling with overtourism, so it's about time we took a hard look at the rest of the country. And it turns out the Netherlands has plenty of other places that will steal your heart. Groningen combines the energy of a university town with cityscapes that include canals, ancient churches and colourful markets, while Maastricht's lovely city centre sits atop a series of underground caves. (Bibliophiles will also want to check out one of the loveliest bookstores in the world, Boekhandel Dominicanen, housed in an old church.) Other picturesque options include the town of Delft and the village of Giethoorn, while the country's rich artistic heritage – which includes painters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals and Bruegel – is felt everywhere. Even Rotterdam, once an eyesore of an industrial port, has reinvented itself as a forward-thinking city with eye-catching architecture and serious sustainability cred. See And the winner is Belgium is simply irresistible, and not just for the chocolate, we promise. TEUTONIC TITANS The case for Austria Some countries are all about the great outdoors; others focus on the finer things in life. Austria delivers epic doses of both. Start in Vienna, with its imperial Habsburg grandeur, its concert halls filled with the strains of Mozart and Bach and Strauss, its old-school coffee houses and its world-class museums. Then head out to the Alps for glaciers and ski slopes (should you be travelling in summer, the hiking is just as memorable). And that's only the start. The cities of Salzburg and Innsbruck are baroque beauties surrounded by soaring peaks, but Austria's lesser-known destinations are just as enchanting. Head south for a stay in Graz, where the architecture has a distinct Italianate slant and where wineries flourish; explore the Wachau Valley, on the UNESCO World Heritage list for its beauty; or dive into the turquoise lakes of the Salzkammergut region. See The case for Germany If Germany were a piece of clothing, it would be the proverbial navy blazer – the one that goes with everything. There is something here to suit every type of traveller, depending on which part of the country you choose to visit. Head to Bavaria for awesome mountains and the regal capital of Munich with its breweries and beer gardens, sample fine wines as you cruise along the Rhine, or head up to the underexplored Baltic coast, with its pine forests, sandy beaches and red-brick Gothic architecture. You might get active hiking the Black Forest; overdose on palaces in Potsdam; discover cutting-edge design in Leipzig; or marvel at the expressionist architecture of Bremen's Bottcherstrasse. And that's before we even get to Berlin, Europe's most unpredictable, and perhaps most intoxicating, city. See And the winner is Given it is four times the size of its neighbour, it's perhaps no surprise that Germany takes the crown. FIVE MORE CLASSIC EURO MATCH-UPS Hungary v Czechia Two countries, one problem: their capital cities are so appealing that few people look beyond them. In Hungary, add a few days onto your Budapest stay to allow a side trip to Lake Balaton; In Czechia, make time to enjoy the medieval charm of Cesky Krumlov. See Loading Croatia v Montenegro Croatia, with its crystal clear waters and historic sights cities such as Dubrovnik and Split, was the first Balkan nation to be discovered by tourists. That's now changing, as tiny Montenegro wins fans with its beautiful beaches and mountains. See Latvia v Lithuania These Baltic belles have much in common, from medieval cities and a complex Cold War history to lush forests, lakes and coasts. The Lithuanian capital of Vilnius is this year's European Green Capital, while the memorable architecture of Riga, the Latvian capital, includes some astonishing art nouveau buildings. See Kosovo vs Bosnia and Herzegovina Two of Europe's smallest (and youngest) countries have fraught histories, but both are also underrated destinations. The Bosnian capital of Sarajevo is a real East-West melting pot, while Kosovo's capital of Pristina makes for a surprisingly lively city break. See

Sydney Morning Herald
2 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Want to avoid crowds in Europe? Look for what a destination is missing
It's not what San Sebastian has that makes it special – though, it does have plenty. Still, you could argue that it's what this northern Spanish city doesn't have that really seals the deal. San Sebastian doesn't have an airport. I mean, there is a San Sebastian Airport, but it's not in San Sebastian, it's in Hondarribia, on the French border, about a half-hour drive away. And even then, it's only a small provincial airport with flights to a few Spanish destinations and seasonal connections to the UK. The nearest large, international airport is in Bilbao, more than an hour away. And then there's something else San Sebastian doesn't have: a cruise terminal. Ships can go into Bilbao, again more than an hour's drive away, or they can go into Bordeaux, which is even further. But there are no commercial passenger vessels darkening the harbours of Donostia. This may seem incidental or even trivial, but it makes a difference. No airport means no mass arrivals of budget airlines. No budget airlines mean no partygoers coming over for the weekend from the UK or Ireland, hordes of people celebrating stag do's and hens nights and whatever else in a place with more bars per square kilometre than any other public facility. In many ways, San Sebastian is made for these sorts of visitors. But they don't arrive. No cruise terminal, meanwhile, means no large groups of tour passengers making their way en masse through the city's narrow Old Town streets. You get small groups of tourists on local food tours and the like, but there's none of the noticeable ebb and flow you get when a huge cruise ship pulls into the local port. San Sebastian lacks this connectivity. It's tricky to get to, a little annoying in some ways. And even still, the city is suffering under the weight of its own popularity, as stories of its gastronomic excellence and physical beauty have gone far and wide. Imagine what it would be like with better transport options? In that way, San Sebastian is luckier than other tourism hotspots around Europe. It's luckier than Dubrovnik, and Prague, and Barcelona, and Venice, and Amsterdam. All those destinations have big international airports or cruise terminals or both. It's luckier than Berlin and Rome, Santorini and Ibiza, Lisbon and Nice, which are notoriously overrun.